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Loop build thread

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Thanks for the input guys. Still working on it.

I am taking the advice posted. Bottom 120mm fans will be intake from under the case. Top fans will exhaust out of the top of the case.

I have run into my first case of incompatibility. Hoping you guys can help me out. My water block has a 3 pin rgb cable but my board utilizes 4 pin. Is there an adaption to fix this?

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Should relocate the bottom rads if those are to be intake. Gonna dump rad heat right into that video card. It may not be a lot of heat, but not exactly going to be a working alternative to what you already had being it was exhausting.
Perhaps relocate just the one radiator directly under the Radeon Gpu.
 
This is where loop order just on occasion makes a difference since you will be dumping warm air at your GPU's intake. If you can make the rad under the GPU the last part of the loop at least it will be dumping the less hot air at the gpu. Just a thought.
 
As I mentioned before I do not know much about water cooling. If he’s water cooling the GPU, how much impact do the bottom fans have on the GPU’s temps?
 
none, it's a full coverage block. All hypothetically since we now know the GPU will be on the loop, but had it been just the CPU, even a TR, with 600mm equivalent of radiator, I would not expect delta T to get high enough to significantly impact GPU performance with the rads. Plenty of people stick those cards in cases that have a higher delta T over ambient than his loop will. Just my now hypothetical 2 c.

I think it's unlikely at this point, but is it possible to return the block for one with a 4 pin, or contact EK and see if it's possible to order just the 4 pin RGB part and change it over. Otherwise you can get a manual or USB controller to add on. I don't think you can directly adapt the 4 pin to 3 pin from the motherboard because it's a different signal. 4 pin is 12V-G-R-B (with each color going to ground via PWM), 3 pin is addressable so it's usually 5V-Data-Gnd. https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=295650.0;attach=62527;image. If you're using corsair fans you could also look into using the controller / corsair link for the WB's RGB, however I believe the corsair stuff is somewhat proprietary.
 
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Hypothetically speaking, dumping heat into a case of which you want removed is not efficient cooling practice.
Hypothetically, if the air coming from the rad is warmer than ambient, you then heat the part the air is flowing onto above ambient.

Would your 2c end result change the maximum possible overclock? probably not really.
 
according to ek it should have a 4pin connector. directly from their site,

EK-Supremacy EVO RGB
The water block comes with pre-installed 4-pin 12V RGB LED strip.

i would contact ek.
 
Hi all. I’m debating removing the water block. I may just go without RGB. I have so much already.

Not working on it today. I gave up trying to bend tubing. It’s just not my thing. I’m waiting on a delivery from bitspower. Lots of connectors. Kinda going back to my original vision though it may look a bit overly complicated.
 
Yes, hardline bending is an art-form. If done right, it can look amazing. But, I never had much luck with anything artsy. Guess that's why I stayed with old school flex tubing and barb fittings. You have a sweet build in progress. Let it evolve, almost all of my projects have tweaks done on the fly (and sometimes they work better than the initial plan).
 
Did some more work on it today. It’s gotten well out of hand money wise. No choice now but to bite the bullet and finish it up. Off to microcenter tomorrow..

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So I’ve had to make some changes. While this isn’t a mission critical machine, I do need to get it up and running by Saturday. Keeping that in mind, the GPU cooling is going to have to wait for another time. With the limited time I have to work on it, I’m hoping to get the tubing done and water in it tomorrow. Here’s where I had to stop today.
 
Please don't rush the leak testing.

I'm a little confused by your routing here. If you know what you want to achieve and are working on it, then by all means continue, however if you're feeling a little lost, then consider trying something a little different. So you have a nice run from the pump to the rear rad. You can next make a run from the rear rad to the front rad, skipping the distribution panel. From there you can go up into the first distribution chamber. From that chamber you can go to your CPU with the flexible tubing (or rigid if you like). From CPU to either top distribution chamber, or or direct to rad. Rad to inflow for the reservoir.

To incorporate the GPU, you would go direct to GPU from the bottom rads, then back to the reservoir and so on as before.
 
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Every run has to go back to the res or you will have an empty chamber.

Just a few mor wires and I’m ready to fill it up and run the sys prep. Checked all the fittings and they appear tight. Only one way to find out. ��
 
Well the pump is pumping!! No leaked upon startup. ��

Since it’s my first time, how long before the air settles out of the water? The prep says to run for a minimum of 12 hours. I plan to do just that. I’ve tilted the case on all three axis and flow is good.

image.jpg
 
For my rig w/ 3 radiators, after lots of tilting and tipping it was about a full week before I saw my water table level stabilize in my reservoir but I think the majority of major air bubbles got moved out after 2 days.
 
So it’s up and running. Booted fine and the CPU temps are sitting right at 22c with a cenibench run putting them up to 40c. Much better than before. I’m going to drain the loop and refill since it still has sys prep in it. Will like just run DI for a while till I decide on which fluid I want to run. I’d still like to run something opaque. A lot of the decision will be based on how well it drains. I did build in a drai at the lowest point, so, we’ll see! Thanks for everyone’s help and encouragement!!
 
Swapped my Velocity waterblock with a Supremacy variant and puy in the Primochill Vue in silver. Done until i decide to tackle the GPU.
 
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