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Miny Cascade : Budget Dual 1/2hp

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can someone break down barney style how this thing works, it looks to me like a A/C that chills twice befoe shooting the cold air/water into the PC
 
A compressor is what makes your fridge cold. Instead of making a bunch of coils in your fridge cold, NoL modifies compressors so they make a tiny block cold. You mount that block on your CPU, and your CPU gets cold instead of the milk in your fridge.

Refrigerant/Coolant is the heat exchange substance, and its pumped through the tubes. The block is called the evaporator, because the compressor sends really cold coolant to the block, and when it gets there the coolant boils and turns into a gas (thats why the block is called an evaporator) - that is what makes the cooling happen (it takes a lot of energy changing a liquid into a gas, so that sucks the heat out of the CPU). That gas is then sent to the condensor, where it is cooled back down to liquid form. It goes back through the compressor, and the loop repeats.

That is more or less accurate, and as simple as I can picture it. :)

NoL, if you need any details for Philly, just PM or call me - 440.499.4221. I'll be kicking things off "officially" at 5PM on Friday, but people will start earlier than that. We'll be there and benching through the day/night for the rest of the weekend. We'll have a family dinner with everyone attending early Saturday evening... Otherwise, its all benching. :)
 
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thank you IMOG i was thinking in essentially the same manner but couldnt figure out how he was delivering the "cold" to the computers components
 
That is more or less accurate, and as simple as I can picture it.

Good enough, and I will probably drop you a call Friday when I get on my way there.


Onto the fun!

Just saw -95C unloaded. The more I charge the lower my unloaded, total reversal, but I think the first stage is just too cold.. At 200W it was starting to crash though (150W @ -84C) so need to add more to first stage, which I am waiting for it all to cool/warm up depending on what it needs to do ;).

Current temperatures across the board at 150W so far.

Stage 1 Discharge: 66C
Stage 1 Suction: -55C
Stage 2 Discharge: 54C
Stage 2 Desuperheater bottom: 28C
Stage 2 HX outlet: -51C
Stage 2 Evaporator: -84C

Rotarys are hot to the touch obviously, but with 90-110C being their upper range I am really not worried. Many get spooked when it's hot enough to burn your hand, but you get a burning sensation at about 45C on metal, after all 110F(+-) is quite hot. But rotarys will run well into the "I just cooked an egg on the .......... " territory.
Since I think I am out of R290 I will stop by airgas tomorrow to pickup my order.

Guess I'll get on the electrical side of things then.
 
Put a metal plate in over the rotarys? so i can cook soup or a sammich, mabye some eggs while benching :D

Sounds awesome btw :) Its nice to see dry Ice temps from a affordable Cascade.

How does this compare temp wise to a standard cascade?
 
With big enough rotarys and a general discontent for your ears one can get sub -90C at quite high loads. Personally if I don't build a small miny cascade it will be further expenditure into autocascade design. Large cascades aren't, and have never, been worth it.
 
Put a metal plate in over the rotarys? so i can cook soup or a sammich, mabye some eggs while benching :D

Sounds awesome btw :) Its nice to see dry Ice temps from a affordable Cascade.

How does this compare temp wise to a standard cascade?

I was just thinking that. 110C will cook an egg nicely. Just weld a steel plate to the top of the thing. Added cooling for the compressor, and added functionality! :clap:
 
Is it a possibility to add heatsinks the rotaries? I know they are in the safe range, but cooler running temps typically means longer life, right?
 
Not possible, and it won't produce a longer life. The design of a rotary is intended to run hot, it's just the method and result of component placement.
 
I won't have the sides cut and what not, so it's going to be a barebones at the event. I'm pulling an all nighter on this won it seems. Just finished up the electricals for the most part, basic setup, will have to show off the full PID/contactor setup another time sadly.

Now to get this tuning perfected, or at least good enough for some benching fun.

But it does look good.
 
Sad to see you weren't able to get it done in time for the party, was cool chatting with you about the technology though and how it works!
 
Im done from my plasma selling days on campus. Nothing like $60 in your pocket, and then being a cheap date (getting blasted on 3 beers)!

Seriously though, I need to figure out something for SB. I wonder if 2011 will be the same way?
 
The wattage we end up putting of some of these chips at high load is crazy. If 2011 acts like SB on low temps, then it might almost be a better bet to go with a extremely high flow chilled water setup. Atleast for long duration runs. Atleast then you can bench with a flip of a switch still. Instead of putting a pot on it.

I do love my phase change setups though. I just don't see them handling the loads we are pushing aswell as i would like.
 
Have you used a correctly tuned, hand built unit like NoL makes? I feel like his units would hold the load just fine. You said it yourself, these chips pumps out a lot of heat, of course a 300watt load max SS won't hold a 400 watt chip well. IIRC, NoL has said this before:

"It's like having water pour into a bucket constantly. Then you take a certain sized cup and begin to pull the water back out. If 20 oz go in and you can pull out 20oz, then you're fine. But if you start pouring 50oz in and can only pull out 20oz, it's only so long before the system overloads."

He can tune the units to hold x amount of load. However, I like the pots because they can handle the higher wattage loads. On ln2, it just means pouring more or more often. ;)
 
I haven't yet chance, I am hoping to buy a unit from him at some point. Cause I do love a Nice phase change setup for convience.

I been messing around with the math involved some for my chips. The Wattages are well above the 300watt range even for my SB(thats over clocked under full load wattages).

What it really comes down to is that the overall wattage of the chips are still getting higher. I think some of the really high end xeons are somewhere around 140-160watts.
 
Yeah. The chips fit the 140watt TDP at stock, but when we OC the crap out of them, that gets thrown out the window. :( The chips TDP's climb and climb and climb.
 
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