NB cooling

[Otter]

I doubt there is any liquid in the heat pipes to begin with. Whats the point if you can't re-fill the pipe. Also if there was liquid in the pipe and the crimps were good liquid would evap anyways. Or the pipe would have to much pressure after time and pop. The heat pipes are hollow to begin with, unless the liquid can be circulated. through the heat pipes, then thats a totally different situation.

The liquid in a heat pipe evaporates at the hot side and thus absorbs heat. The resulting gas travels to the cold side where it condenses and releases the heat. Then the condensed liquid is wicked back to the hot side where it evaporates again.

There has to be some liquid in a heatpipe for it to work, but flooding slows down heat transfer, hence you don't want very much of it.

 

[OCnewbee]

So then which boards with heat pipes have liquid in them???

 

[Otter]

All of them.

 

[myndlessdayz]

sooo... what would be a good solution great WC gurus?

 

[Maviryk]

Otter already covered it in his first post.

 

[darkcow]

http://www.thermalright.com/a_page/main_product_hr05sli.htm

the benefits from w/c NB isn't there in my opinion, if you require those extra 10 mhz go water cooling, but i don't think you do.

 

[jtjuska]

Watercooling the N/B can be nice if you want things to look uniform. Also its not something that is worth it for function more than for looks. Thats my opinion though.

~jtjuska

 

[myndlessdayz]

Watercooling the N/B can be nice if you want things to look uniform. Also its not something that is worth it for function more than for looks. Thats my opinion though.

~jtjuska

Now thats an idea...

 

[Stewie]

Watercooling the N/B can be nice if you want things to look uniform. Also its not something that is worth it for function more than for looks. Thats my opinion though.

~jtjuska

I think for some people it's actually more function than form. Particularly for my setup (haven't done it yet, however), where my NB runs a smoking 50C or so at idle, partially due to an inadequate fan. Nevertheless, watercooling it would definitely lower the temperature significantly; I know of someone personally who did this with my motherboard and it solved his heat issues perfectly.

 

[jtjuska]

Thats why I do it. I w/c both the north and south bridges not because of anything but because it gives a very uniform look and the MCW30's hardly hit the flow rate at all so there isn't really a reason not to if you are doing water anyway. A good chipset cooler will cost almost as much as a MCW30 so why not?

~jtjuska

 

[darkcow]

I think for some people it's actually more function than form. Particularly for my setup (haven't done it yet, however), where my NB runs a smoking 50C or so at idle, partially due to an inadequate fan. Nevertheless, watercooling it would definitely lower the temperature significantly; I know of someone personally who did this with my motherboard and it solved his heat issues perfectly.

your one of the few exceptions. 50c is pretty hot.

 

[Mycobacteria]

I think anyone who has a nvidia chipset will see a preformance gains by water cooling their NB. They generally run quite hot compared to the 965x and 975x MBs.

 

[Otter]

Chipset blocks aren't a horrible idea, especially if there's a low-restriction one available for your board. I think most who install them do it more to get rid of whining fans than to increase their overclock, but that's a solid reason for doing it. A high-end passive air approach will do the same job, though, and usually costs less. In the end, the choice comes down to preference, the specifics of air and water flow in your system, and what can be had to fit your board. But I do encourage you to at least look into passive air coolers before adding two chipset blocs to your loop.

 

[myndlessdayz]

So most likely I will WC my NB and SB. but what do you use to cool the MOSFETS?

 

[Otter]

Most people use small heat sinks. You can buy these, or you can cut up an old CPU sink you might have lying around to make many smaller sinks. And yes, that does mean you need at least a little air flowing through your case, but that's a good idea anyway considering that the your mobo and cards were all designed to be air cooled.

If you have enough air flow, your mosfets might not need any additional cooling. Don't bother with sinks on anything that doesn't get hot.

 

[OCnewbee]

So most likely I will WC my NB and SB. but what do you use to cool the MOSFETS?

On the board in your sig. Asus had aux fans for the mosfet that you can use.

or you can water cool them with these

http://www.koolance.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=29_71&products_id=433
or
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=22926&vpn=AC11601&manufacture=Others

 

[Automata]

If you want a waterblock for the NB I would look into the MCW30 as there is very little resistance in it and it does a good job. I am wondering though whether there was not some other factor that caused it to do an emergency shut off.

~jtjuska

I'm using this block right now, and it is amazing. I can't tell you specific temps since I own the AW9D-MAX...and that doesnt show the NB temp....*sigh*

Thideras

 

[Mycobacteria]

Mofset water cooling is sweet idea, but usually they dont get as hot as a NB, And for some reason the mofset water blocks are more expensive than a NB water block, probably because not a lot of people use them.

I just wish i could pump liquids into the asus striker extreme's heat pipes....

 

[OCnewbee]

I just wish i could pump liquids into the asus striker extreme's heat pipes....

I was thinking about something like that. Make some copper blocks and connect them together with copper pipes and make a small loop, but then that would be the same as cooling the NB and Mosfet with normal blocks and a small pump and rad, but just more work.

 

[Diggrr]

Late coming to this thread....

Maybe the water in your heatpipe was vaporized by the heat from your hand while cutting it. 98.6 (37C) is higher than the usual boiling point target of 30-34C.
Just a thought.

And yes I watercool my North Bridge. Always have, always will.
It's not for overclockability, it's because I tend to have fits when my NB reads at 57.5C with the passive heatsink they thought would be good enough for the board to live past warranty.