I have been having a heat issue with my NB/IOH hitting 81-82*C when the system is busy (idle about 75-77*C). I went hunting around the forums and found someone had mentioned cutting their heat pipe to allow for a waterblock. I have found a replacement heatsink for the IOH but can't find a replacement for the SB because of its size. This leads me to the idea of cutting the heat pipe between the two. This would leave the stock SB heatsink, which seems to be working fine on its own, and allow me to replace the heatsink on the IOH. Any opinions, ideas, suggestions, warnings would be great.
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NB heatsink idea: cutting heat pipe between NB/SB
- Thread starter Solder
- Start date
Heat pipes are usually filled with a liquid to aid the cooling effect of the pipe, and cutting into this will obviously cause it to leak all over you're mobo and render the rest of the pipe work as good as useless so I would not advise cutting it. Hope this helps you out 
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2002
- Location
- Seattle, WA
Yeah, I would also avoid cutting it. If you really want to replace the heatsinks, I would chop up a larger heatsink to replace the SB heatsink and remove the entire NB/SB heatpipe assembly intact.
- Thread Starter
- #4
Here's the deal with heat pipes from what I've read on the subject. They're not "filled" with fluid, there's only about .5cc (about two drops) of H2O in them. The pipes are vacuum sealed which lowers the boiling point of the water inside to allow it to vaporize and transfer the heat away towards the cooler part of the pipe.
Mind you, I'm not planning on cutting the pipe while attached to the board, that's just crazy. Given the temperature of the IOH as it is, it's quite possible the SB might run cooler if it's not attached to it.
Mind you, I'm not planning on cutting the pipe while attached to the board, that's just crazy. Given the temperature of the IOH as it is, it's quite possible the SB might run cooler if it's not attached to it.
- Thread Starter
- #6
Nice idea but I don't have access to a shop and the tools to accomplish that.
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2002
- Location
- Seattle, WA
I've done that in the past with a drill and a hacksaw. Or a dremel. Doesn't require much...
- Thread Starter
- #8
Yeah quite. I have already reseated it with Arctic Silver 5 and used non conductive washers on the back of the board to increase pressure for better contact.
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2002
- Location
- Seattle, WA
Can you simply get better airflow over it with a fan and maybe a bracket of some kind?
- Thread Starter
- #10
I'll see if I can find someone with a dremel. I'm not even sure I could pull off the measurements to line up the mounting holes properly. Maybe... I'll ask around re: the dremel.
- Thread Starter
- #11
I just added a fan to the rear of the case as an intake which is why it's at the temperature it is now instead of 96-98*C. I just want it way lower than it is and having a heck of a time finding a way to do that.
Like I said I have found a replacement heatsink for the IOH just can't find a SB that will fit. All the replacements are 56mm - 59mm hole spacing and this is about ~4.5mm
The IOH has a solid block mounted on the top of the fins with MSI's logo on it.
- Thread Starter
- #13
This is the IOH right there in the center with the MSI logo. This was taken before i added the rear 480 rad
- Thread Starter
- #15
Hahaha I know right, who was the genus behind that one? Whil-e-kyote super genus...
Maybe I'll try a small fan like you said before I go drastic.
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2001
- Location
- New Iberia, LA
Is the "MSI" cover on the heatsink soldered or glued on? The old Asus P5WDH board I used to have had a cover on the nb heatsink much like that but was just glued down. I simply peeled the sucker off and instant cooler temps.
- Thread Starter
- #19
I might have to pull off the heatsink to pry off the top plate. It's difficult to get a decent angle on it but the good news is it's not attached to all the fins. I can move a lot of 'em as if they're not attached to the top. I'm trying to come up with a plan to create some leverage (carefully) without having to remove the entire heatsink. I haven't been successful with a jewelers screwdriver between the top and the fins yet. I'll keep running the whole thing through my head for a bit.
