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NEW BIGT RADS!! MONSTERS!!
- Thread starter enz660
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
this is a real monster, enz660 -
it was built -specifically- for TWO 226 watt pelts, plus pump heatload, plus video, chipset, ram, harddisk, PLUS 25% extra capacity , with a 36 hour tank.
its got flaws i abandoned fixing, so its not like its something that you can claim "works" at least long term. but i used it months before the flaws became apparent and wrecked my rig. it performed far beyond my expectations while it worked though. -it is not- a standard bong cooler, though it is bong/evaporative based -
and
my only fans were in the PSU's.
(shown partially dissasembled and abandoned for now)
so in other words, after much thought, i stand in favor of bigger rads, and lots of surface area. it makes good cooling sense!
this is what it takes to dissapate that much heat with good temps - surface area!
(in this case the surface area of the water itself gets cooled... its allso designed to be double-able, for approxatamately killowatt heatload, unknown if it would scale like that though... this was a secret design at one time too. heh.)
it was built -specifically- for TWO 226 watt pelts, plus pump heatload, plus video, chipset, ram, harddisk, PLUS 25% extra capacity , with a 36 hour tank.
its got flaws i abandoned fixing, so its not like its something that you can claim "works" at least long term. but i used it months before the flaws became apparent and wrecked my rig. it performed far beyond my expectations while it worked though. -it is not- a standard bong cooler, though it is bong/evaporative based -
and
my only fans were in the PSU's.
(shown partially dissasembled and abandoned for now)
so in other words, after much thought, i stand in favor of bigger rads, and lots of surface area. it makes good cooling sense!
this is what it takes to dissapate that much heat with good temps - surface area!
(in this case the surface area of the water itself gets cooled... its allso designed to be double-able, for approxatamately killowatt heatload, unknown if it would scale like that though... this was a secret design at one time too. heh.)
Last edited:
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2004
- Location
- VT... or MD
I call it a marketing department![O-CuK]Marci said:
- Joined
- May 15, 2004
- Location
- 1010011010
why dont you put a layer of paint between your cpu and the block and see how that affects performance.
painted fins will obviously have some kind of effect, regardless of if you can tell or not.
painted fins will obviously have some kind of effect, regardless of if you can tell or not.
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2006
Phrenetical said:I'd love to see a
XX
XX
rad also but with the option to have barbs at either end so the first XX has barbs on front, the top XX has barbs at back and the option to switch the second barbs out and have it be a true four slot rad. That would be awesome cause you could set up two loops with one rad, or one loop with one huge rad.
someone get to work on that please.
I agree that a
XX
XX
rad would be nice to see, I dont have a tall enough case for a
XXXX
it just won't fit.
- Joined
- Jul 9, 2005
- Location
- USA
Unless someone pays me to get a $200
XX
XX
style radiator, I'll stick with my BIXIII...
XX
XX
style radiator, I'll stick with my BIXIII...
- Joined
- May 15, 2004
- Location
- 1010011010
greenmaji said:
Of course it is not comparable, that was the point you newb.
Trying to illustrate the posts that are stating paint on copper wont affect its cooling ability.
sheesh
Last edited:
- Joined
- May 15, 2004
- Location
- 1010011010
Double post, dam pesky lag.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2006
one very very easy way to remove the paint is use some kind of acid that removes the paint. but doesn't hurt copper or other metals. stick the rad inside a bath of the stuff. and badabing bada boom. no more paint.
then all you have to do is just re-paint the sides etc. making sure not to touch the fins. and your good to go.
i wouldn't mind trying it out. i just need to find if a paint thinner still works even after the paint has completely dried...
i won't even re-paint the rad because im going to be mounting in a place where you can't see it.
then all you have to do is just re-paint the sides etc. making sure not to touch the fins. and your good to go.
i wouldn't mind trying it out. i just need to find if a paint thinner still works even after the paint has completely dried...
i won't even re-paint the rad because im going to be mounting in a place where you can't see it.
- Joined
- May 15, 2004
- Location
- 1010011010
You might be onto something, but i think it would be very diffficult to strip the paint off the fins without stripping it off the outside of the rad, as very few of us would want our rads looking bare on the outside.
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2004
orionlion82 said:this is a real monster, enz660 -
it was built -specifically- for TWO 226 watt pelts, plus pump heatload, plus video, chipset, ram, harddisk, PLUS 25% extra capacity , with a 36 hour tank.
its got flaws i abandoned fixing, so its not like its something that you can claim "works" at least long term. but i used it months before the flaws became apparent and wrecked my rig. it performed far beyond my expectations while it worked though. -it is not- a standard bong cooler, though it is bong/evaporative based -
and
my only fans were in the PSU's.
(shown partially dissasembled and abandoned for now)
so in other words, after much thought, i stand in favor of bigger rads, and lots of surface area. it makes good cooling sense!
this is what it takes to dissapate that much heat with good temps - surface area!
(in this case the surface area of the water itself gets cooled... its allso designed to be double-able, for approxatamately killowatt heatload, unknown if it would scale like that though... this was a secret design at one time too. heh.)
What's the difference in design? What makes it not just another standard bong cooler? Just curious.
