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New loop, need your opinion.

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When looking at pumps for water cooling the max flow rate is of little interest. That figure is only what the pump can theoretically do with zero restriction. Water loops involve restriction, so the rating of more interest to us is the head pressure. Pressure overcomes resistance to increase flow.

I would be surprised if you could find enough room in a Prodigy case for a D5 pump and res, but they have way more than enough pressure to handle a small 2 block loop.
The D5 produces less maximum pressure than the PWM DDC pumps but is generally quieter at the same flow rates. It is quite a bit larger than the DDC pumps, especially in pump/res combo form.

In regular or large size builds I would always use and recommend D5 pumps because of their lower noise and slightly better reliablility. In SFF builds though I would always use DDC's, they are more compact and space efficient in their mounting.
 
Ok so this would do I guess:
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs...ek-ddc/ek-xres-100-ddc-3-2-pwm-incl-pump.html
It really looks smaller from the preview pic as well in comparison with the D5.Another thing I wanted to ask is: PT nuke or silver coil? I remember in stickies saying that usually biocides tend to alter the fluid PH (especially when you use it with water) and thus it wares the tubing quicker or it might create problems with the blocks as well if you're using different metals in your system.
 
Some guys use just a kill coil some use both, for comfort sake if you like. You choose what you feel best with. Me I use both a kill cool and a few drops of dead water.

Maybe I should add..... in most cases a kill coil alone will suffice. However if you have your case in direct sun or are using Uv light a little backup with PT Nuke or dead water will certainly not hurt.
 
Last edited:
Alright then, kill coil it is!
Here I have the updated list:

XSPC raystorm CPU block
XSPC Razor 670 GPU block
EK-XRES DDC PWM pump/res combo
2x XSPC 120.2 EX series rads
A bunch of compression fittings
4x Noctua iPPC 2000 fans
NZXT Sentry 3 (if there's something better u can suggest... This is one is 30€ from where I buy and I hear only good stuff for it.)
Silver coil
Primochill advanced LRT Red
 
Looks good. My only concern is putting a block on such an old card as the block can't be used in any other gpu.

EDIT: I see that is a typo, lol!
 
In the compatibility list of XSPC, they list the 670,770 and 970 all under the 670 GPU block that's why I typed it! I was sooooooooooooo in for adding Red coolant in my system but I don't want any odd ooze or something growing into my blocks. But will definetely do it in a future build I'm thinking of.
 
Stay away from dyes*. Use colored tubing. Water cooling 101 there.

*There are a couple on the market that won't gunk up your build, but, why take the chance?
 
true. I was checking out those Bitspower 100 copper edition reservoirs, I kinda fancy them but I don't know if the water comes in contact with the copper in the bottom of the res and about the whole thing with mixing metals in the loop.
 
Copper, silver and brass is ok. Just don't mix any aluminum. You are always in the stages of corrosion but at a very, very slow rate. If you add aluminum to the loop which most reputed watercooling components don't have nowadays, you will destroy everything. You don't have to worry and your list looks good. Just make sure to add angle fittings, especially in such a tight small build and give us some pictures once complete unless you decide to do a build log. :D
 
I use black tubing (live in Amish area!) so coloring the water doesn't matter. I would never use anything but distilled water as a coolant. If you want color, get colored tubing. The "extra bling" of having colored dye or other coolant is not worth having components stained from the dye or adding unknowns into the loop.
 
GTXJackBauer said:
Copper, silver and brass is ok. Just don't mix any aluminum. You are always in the stages of corrosion but at a very, very slow rate. If you add aluminum to the loop which most reputed watercooling components don't have nowadays, you will destroy everything. You don't have to worry and your list looks good. Just make sure to add angle fittings, especially in such a tight small build and give us some pictures once complete unless you decide to do a build log. :D
Click to expand...

I will be making a project log. I will start putting things together in about 4-5 days, the "stage 1" as I call it! :D I will just put the case, mobo, CPU, RAM and GPU together,start running them and the next month I'll be getting my new PSU and the sleeving material I need to start sleeving it.
 
ok so I'm about to order my watercooling stuff but I was wondering about the fittings, if I have forgotten something?
2x240mm XSPC EX Series rads
XSPC Raystorm CPU block
XSPC Razor GPU block
EK-DDC 3.2 PWM pump/res combo

Now I've been planning to order: 16x XSPC coin fittings 1/4" to 3/8" - 5/8", 4x Bitspower stop fittings (or the XSPC equivalent but I didn't find one), 2x XSPC 1/4" 90° fittings. I'm mostly worried about the fittings the pump/res needs because they don't specify if the ports are 1/4" or whatever is it. Second, I'll be working in a Prodigy as you can see above and I've ordered 20feet of Advanced LRT tubing, it's most probably enough right? If I want to cut a tube shorter (I'll be ordering in unit, comes cheaper that way) what should I use to cut it properly?

Thanks again a lot!
 
Itachiii said:
ok so I'm about to order my watercooling stuff but I was wondering about the fittings, if I have forgotten something?
2x240mm XSPC EX Series rads
XSPC Raystorm CPU block
XSPC Razor GPU block
EK-DDC 3.2 PWM pump/res combo

Now I've been planning to order: 16x XSPC coin fittings 1/4" to 3/8" - 5/8", 4x Bitspower stop fittings (or the XSPC equivalent but I didn't find one), 2x XSPC 1/4" 90° fittings. I'm mostly worried about the fittings the pump/res needs because they don't specify if the ports are 1/4" or whatever is it. Second, I'll be working in a Prodigy as you can see above and I've ordered 20feet of Advanced LRT tubing, it's most probably enough right? If I want to cut a tube shorter (I'll be ordering in unit, comes cheaper that way) what should I use to cut it properly?

Thanks again a lot!
Click to expand...

You won't even need 10 feet of tubing for a small case, let alone 5. I would just grab a retail pack of 10 ft. so you have extra for user error.

As for the fittings, as long as the tubing matches the fittings, you should be good but I know you can mix and match on some of the smaller ones. I am not too familiar with that as I use the biggest size.

All of your water cooling gear have the standard G 1/4 threads so you should have no issues with anything listed.
 
Ok then! I'll be grabbing a retail pack. With what should I cut the tubing where needed? I thought that a knife or a razor would make the tips uneven.
 
There are some tube cutters out there that they sell. Just look for one. I can't remember where I bought mine from as it was a while ago.
 
A good Home Depot/ Any good new blade utility knife works fine. You get 10' of tubing, you got plenty to play with. Practice a bit, you'z got nuff to play with. You seem able to do it right with a good attitude. No need for a $20 tube cutter. I never used one.
 
Might sound silly, but I practice on a scap piece of tubing doing my cuts with a big butcher knife. Generally have no problem.
 
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