Overclock problem

[Scarass]

I can't overclock at all!

I have Athlon II X4 620 2,6 Ghz and soon as I put it to 2,7 (FSB to 210) it crashes.

Now i have much new hardware, PSU, motherboard and RAM are new. My old PSU got broken and killed my motherboard so i changed both, and RAM too, due to transition to DDR3.

I think that my RAM may be a problem cause it is with Intel XMP support.

Yet i have a problem with overclocking a video card (it's HD 5770), before on an old system i could get it to 1050/1350 stable, now i'm getting problems even on like 900/1250. I think i've done a stability test for 950/1300 cause i was sure it will be stable but it crashed so i did no stabilty test anymore. Yesterday I played Far Cry 3 on around 920/1250, and when i quit game and returned default clocks i've had artifacts.

So, what might be a problem? RAM most likely? It is this one: http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-10600cl8d-4gbhk

But if RAM's a problem what's wrong with my video card than? could RAM also be the cause?
Maybe PSU, I have LC Power Silent Giant Green Power 460W (LC6460GP3 V2.3), it should be enough power to power up my system but could it be defect? Maybe motherboard, it's not new from the store it's secondhand.

Here's my complete system:
Athlon II X4 620 2,6 Ghz
G.Skill DDR3 4GB f3-10600cl8d-4gbhk
ASUS M5A78l-M/USB3.0
XFX HD5770
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB
LC Power Silent Giant Green Power 460W (LC6460GP3 V2.3)


EDIT: Yet i have to mention that overclocking CPU was also problem on my old MBO, but at least i could put it to 2,7, at 2,8 it would crash. And that was GA-M720-US3.

 

[Silver_Pharaoh]

Maybe a tad more voltage?

 

[Mandrake4565]

I can't overclock at all!

I have Athlon II X4 620 2,6 Ghz and soon as I put it to 2,7 (FSB to 210) it crashes.

Now i have much new hardware, PSU, motherboard and RAM are new. My old PSU got broken and killed my motherboard so i changed both, and RAM too, due to transition to DDR3.

I think that my RAM may be a problem cause it is with Intel XMP support.

Yet i have a problem with overclocking a video card (it's HD 5770), before on an old system i could get it to 1050/1350 stable, now i'm getting problems even on like 900/1250. I think i've done a stability test for 950/1300 cause i was sure it will be stable but it crashed so i did no stabilty test anymore. Yesterday I played Far Cry 3 on around 920/1250, and when i quit game and returned default clocks i've had artifacts.

So, what might be a problem? RAM most likely? It is this one: http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-10600cl8d-4gbhk

But if RAM's a problem what's wrong with my video card than? could RAM also be the cause?
Maybe PSU, I have LC Power Silent Giant Green Power 460W (LC6460GP3 V2.3), it should be enough power to power up my system but could it be defect? Maybe motherboard, it's not new from the store it's secondhand.

Here's my complete system:
Athlon II X4 620 2,6 Ghz
G.Skill DDR3 4GB f3-10600cl8d-4gbhk
ASUS M5A78l-M/USB3.0
XFX HD5770
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB


EDIT: Yet i have to mention that overclocking CPU was also problem on my old MBO, but at least i could put it to 2,7, at 2,8 it would crash. And that was GA-M720-US3.

Welcome to the forum, what worked on your old setup will not, in most cases, work on your new one. You need to figure out what works with the new motherboard. As Silver stated you made need to simply add more voltage to get the Cpu to OC to where it was earlier.

As far as the Gpu goes, if you're using different drivers or overclocking tool/version of it, that could be the reason why you cannot OC as far as you did.

 

[Waza]

Your PSU is rated for <230W for 12V combined power from two rails.
Yet you have 95W TDP CPU and 108W TDP GPU.
You are most likely overloading your PSU which causes it to shut down.

 

[EarthDog]

Your PSU is rated for <230W for 12V combined power from two rails.
Yet you have 95W TDP CPU and 108W TDP GPU.
You are most likely overloading your PSU which causes it to shut down.

That PSU is likely quite old seeing as how it is rated for 460W but yet the 12v rail, which is what MODERN PC's run off of only has ~230W. Modern PSU's have the vast majority of their sticker rating pointing to the 12v rail.

Review - http://www.planet3dnow.de/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=378754
Cheap PSU = no no.

 

[Scarass]

Well, ofcourse i have tried adding more voltage, that's basics. Didn't work, currently i'm on 1.37, have tried up to 1.4 for 2,7 Ghz it would crash every time.

So my video card consumes 108w and CPU 95w in full load, that is about 230w in full load when we add other components, right? So i'm not even using 50% of my PSU's total power....
But my PC does shut down when i stress my CPU when overclocked to 2,7 Ghz.

About GPU, i have the newest drivers now, and am using CCC or MSI Afterburner for overclock as I did before.
Haven't yet tried what are the highest clocks I can get, will try now.

 

[EarthDog]

So my video card consumes 108w and CPU 95w in full load, that is about 230w in full load when we add other components, right? So i'm not even using 50% of my PSU's total power....

Let me quote what was already said...

Your PSU is rated for <230W for 12V combined power from two rails.
Yet you have 95W TDP CPU and 108W TDP GPU.
You are most likely overloading your PSU which causes it to shut down.

That PSU is likely quite old seeing as how it is rated for 460W but yet the 12v rail, which is what MODERN PC's run off of only has ~230W. Modern PSU's have the vast majority of their sticker rating pointing to the 12v rail.

Review - http://www.planet3dnow.de/vbulletin/...d.php?t=378754
Cheap PSU = no no.

Modern systems take the vast majority of the load from the 12v rail.

Also, read the review I linked. Specifically the conclusion. Though its a new PSU, they are scratching their German heads wondering why there is so much wattage on the 5v/3v as opposed to the 12v line... They do not recommend this PSU.

 

[Scarass]

Nope, not true!

On 12V rail i have 350w not 228 like stated in a review. The review is from 2010, and I've bought my one this year so I guess they made it like this now, here is the picture from my PSU.

sorry for little bit bad quality picture

 

[EarthDog]

Oh its true... but they changed it.

Interesting... seems like they polished the turd I guess. That doesn't take away from the fact that it is not a good PSU and comes not recommended by that review.

 

[Scarass]

Well i think you shouldn't be concluding basing on that review you linked, it's old... I mean, if it doesn't say right about power on 12V rail probably other things are also wrong, it isn't even 80+ certified (as much as i can see), my one is.

To be honest I haven't even read the reviews on this PSU before i bought it but everybody (on some other forum) told me this is very quality PSU... 80+ certified gotta be good!!

It even has 2 6-pin connectors (of which one is 6+2 pin)

 

[ATMINSIDE]

Well i think you shouldn't be concluding basing on that review you linked, it's old... I mean, if it doesn't say right about power on 12V rail probably other things are also wrong, it isn't even 80+ certified (as much as i can see), my one is.

To be honest I haven't even read the reviews on this PSU before i bought it but everybody (on some other forum) told me this is very quality PSU... 80+ certified gotta be good!!

It even has 2 6-pin connectors (of which one is 6+2 pin)

80+ has nothing to do with quality, FYI.

That PSU is what I would call a fire hazard, on a good day.

Also, on cheap PSUs, they often don't even supply the rated wattage without blowing up.

 

[EarthDog]

Fair enough. Perhaps they changed the sub par caps and internals that the previous review mentioned (not likely). What is weird is that it is the exact same model number as well. Not even a different version is listed. So its a pretty big leap to assume that the sub par internals were improved.

80+ certified has to do with EFFICIENCY ONLY. It may be good, but the efficiency rating is not a barometer for a quality PSU.

All that said, the OEM appears to be "Great Wall" for your specific unit. I have no idea who that is or how good they are. If it was CWT or Andyson, it should be a solid unit... but no clue on Great Wall.

 

[ATMINSIDE]

Fair enough. Perhaps they changed the sub par caps and internals that the previous review mentioned (not likely). What is weird is that it is the exact same model number as well. Not even a different version is listed. So its a pretty big leap to assume that the sub par internals were improved.

80+ certified has to do with EFFICIENCY ONLY. It may be good, but the efficiency rating is not a barometer for a quality PSU.

All that said, the OEM appears to be "Great Wall" for your specific unit. I have no idea who that is or how good they are. If it was CWT or Andyson, it should be a solid unit... but no clue on Great Wall.

Great Wall? Run.

 

[Ajay57]

I think this is the most telling line posted!!

"My old PSU got broken and killed my motherboard so i changed both"

If the OP decides not to listen to good advice, then we are looking at a potential repeat of what happened last time around!

As someone said to me once, you lead a horse to water, but can't force it to drink!

Regards,

AJ.

 

[Bobnova]

Great Wall is capable of making good PSUs, the OCZ ZT units are Great Wall. Of course, they're also capable of making complete junk.
LC Power tends towards the junk end of things, they're typically vaguely-sort-of-OK-but-not-really. Certainly possible that it's the source of your issues.
It's definitely not on the Corsair CX series level. Probably not even at the Coolermaster GX series level.
Something more like the Tt TR2 (non-bronze) bits, maybe a bit better.

In other words, I recommend getting a better PSU regardless of whether it's the source of your problems or not.

 

[ATMINSIDE]

Great Wall is capable of making good PSUs, the OCZ ZT units are Great Wall. Of course, they're also capable of making complete junk.

Yep, two classes of units completely, with almost no middle ground.

OP, before buying a PSU look for a review at JonnyGuru.
They're one of the very few sites that actually puts a PSU through its paces.
Their review of my ZT 750 is why I got it.

 

[Bobnova]

Odds are decent that the fourth tier (at best) capacitors are failing or have failed, and it has rather more ripple than the ATX spec allows for.

 

[Scarass]

Can you say anything bad about my PSU not based on a probably an outdated review that EarthDog linked?

To be honest, I don't really know that much about PSU's, and I don't even understand half things you are saying, lol....

Can you say anything about it based on the specs I provided in that picture?

If only you could read this:
http://forum.pcekspert.com/showpost.php?p=1637696&postcount=51
Try translating it with Google Translator, but it wont be that good translated.
It is from 2010, when it was certified to have only 228w like in that review, he's saying that definitely isn't true cause he tested it with Core i7 940 and 4870X2 and it was stable!!

I will also try to test it myself with multimeter if i found out how to do so, and get myself a proper multimeter.

 

[Waza]

I wouldn't be surprised if they just changed the OCP circuit to allow more 12V amperage and re-launched the PSU. If you can, measure how much your PC pulls out of the wall socket. multiply that by 0.75 and you should have roughly what your system consumes.
Modern PC uses almost only 12V current.
You should be good as long as your system pulls less than 450W from the wall in full load.
The multiply factor of 0.75 is quite generous and if your PSU really holds it's efficiency, that factor becomes much less forgiving.

I would like to remind you that overclocking increases power consumption really really fast.
For example my system pulled ~450W from the wall at stock at full load on CPU and GPU(HD4870].
And while I was benching my CPU with high overclocks I saw the system pull peak wattage of 600W while BOOTING UP.

 

[Bobnova]

Yeah, LC power hasn't made any good PSUs at all, ever, that I'm aware of.

Same part number = same PSU. Probably just a new sticker.