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Project: Fush Zero - Pictoral Journal of a Complete System Mod (56k beware)
- Thread starter Fushyuguru
- Start date
OP
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2002
- Location
- WPAFB, OH
- Thread Starter
- #22
Posted on: 07-31-03 04:44 PM
Someone not on this forum asked me why I didnt make the border squared off like normal windows. This takes a bit of explaining, and yes it was intentional.
I designed it this way to give accent to the parts I would like to be accented. The border thins out as you move towards the upper left hand corner. This is where the CPU in particular is located. It gives an open view of whatever cooling/monster I would mount on it. Moving to the upper right I have extruded the border out a bit to cloud the 5 1/4" drive cages a bit. Moving down I left enough space to view the backend of the HD that will be mounted in the lowest 5 1/4" bay and the pump underneath. Moving farther down, I have obstructed the lower right corner a bit which will house the chunky Radiator and intake fans. So it is not just a jumble of tronish looking shapes, there was a tad bit of thought mixed in there. I think it will give it an ominous appearance. Also, the Fushyuguru logo is positioned right across the flkat aluminum shroud over the power supply, which when the cathodes/cables glow, will give it a sweet effect glowing through the letters. The other side panel on the Lian Li will be the same exact design with the Fushyuguru logo flipped so its readable. I will in addition skeletonize the Mobo tray so theres some pretty things to look at from the backside. This will also make the Vapo and waterblocks easier to swap.
Also, the side panels of the Vapochil will use the same concept.
I cant wait to get these badboys cut.
Someone not on this forum asked me why I didnt make the border squared off like normal windows. This takes a bit of explaining, and yes it was intentional.
I designed it this way to give accent to the parts I would like to be accented. The border thins out as you move towards the upper left hand corner. This is where the CPU in particular is located. It gives an open view of whatever cooling/monster I would mount on it. Moving to the upper right I have extruded the border out a bit to cloud the 5 1/4" drive cages a bit. Moving down I left enough space to view the backend of the HD that will be mounted in the lowest 5 1/4" bay and the pump underneath. Moving farther down, I have obstructed the lower right corner a bit which will house the chunky Radiator and intake fans. So it is not just a jumble of tronish looking shapes, there was a tad bit of thought mixed in there. I think it will give it an ominous appearance. Also, the Fushyuguru logo is positioned right across the flkat aluminum shroud over the power supply, which when the cathodes/cables glow, will give it a sweet effect glowing through the letters. The other side panel on the Lian Li will be the same exact design with the Fushyuguru logo flipped so its readable. I will in addition skeletonize the Mobo tray so theres some pretty things to look at from the backside. This will also make the Vapo and waterblocks easier to swap.
Also, the side panels of the Vapochil will use the same concept.
I cant wait to get these badboys cut.
OP
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2002
- Location
- WPAFB, OH
- Thread Starter
- #23
Posted on: 08-01-03 07:57 PM
I know weve been talking about these for a while, but theyre done. The jpegs for the panels are done. Here we go, lemme know what you think!
Left side, Right side. Vouge.
Now on to some real work. Back to the basics.
I know weve been talking about these for a while, but theyre done. The jpegs for the panels are done. Here we go, lemme know what you think!
Left side, Right side. Vouge.
Now on to some real work. Back to the basics.
Last edited:
OP
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2002
- Location
- WPAFB, OH
- Thread Starter
- #24
Posted on: 08-02-03 02:49 PM
I got the last parts of the water cooler, the part that makes everything work together. The tubing.
Its R-3603 Tygon with 1/2" ID and 1/8" outer wall. I got 8ft of it at about $2.50 a foot. I like to have extra. Then I grabbed some of the new Arctic Silver Ceramique. I hear it performs better than AS3 after burn in, and it cleans up easier, $3.50 a tube. Next I bought two Evercool 120mm aluminum fans. Theyre rated at 80+cfm at 30db. Thats amazing. I got these cuz the 120mm orange fans were loud and annoying, so Ill use these on the Rad and the condesor.. They were $11 a piece.
Thats thick tubing.
I got the last parts of the water cooler, the part that makes everything work together. The tubing.
Its R-3603 Tygon with 1/2" ID and 1/8" outer wall. I got 8ft of it at about $2.50 a foot. I like to have extra. Then I grabbed some of the new Arctic Silver Ceramique. I hear it performs better than AS3 after burn in, and it cleans up easier, $3.50 a tube. Next I bought two Evercool 120mm aluminum fans. Theyre rated at 80+cfm at 30db. Thats amazing. I got these cuz the 120mm orange fans were loud and annoying, so Ill use these on the Rad and the condesor.. They were $11 a piece.
Thats thick tubing.
Last edited:
OP
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2002
- Location
- WPAFB, OH
- Thread Starter
- #25
Posted on: 08-02-03 03:10 PM
So I decided, to give my case a clean and professional look, Im gonna shroud all of the wires in UV blue sleaving and heatshrink. That way, if you see any wires, theyll look sweet.
So as a starter, I went into the garage and found my trusty 425W Heatgun.
Old, trusty.
Then I began unplugging things randomly with complete and utter ignorance to everything.
Oh god why!
The LED's and Power Reset switches came out first, along with the fan speed controller.
Then I used a tiny jewelers screwdriver, and negotiated with the molex connectors a little, till they came off.
So I decided, to give my case a clean and professional look, Im gonna shroud all of the wires in UV blue sleaving and heatshrink. That way, if you see any wires, theyll look sweet.
So as a starter, I went into the garage and found my trusty 425W Heatgun.
Old, trusty.
Then I began unplugging things randomly with complete and utter ignorance to everything.
Oh god why!
The LED's and Power Reset switches came out first, along with the fan speed controller.
Then I used a tiny jewelers screwdriver, and negotiated with the molex connectors a little, till they came off.
Last edited:
OP
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2002
- Location
- WPAFB, OH
- Thread Starter
- #26
Posted on: 08-02-03 03:18 PM
Then, I used an age old technique to get the sleaving on.
1. Measure and cut.
2. Singe ends with lighter to keep from fraying.
3. Use the acordian method to scoot the sleaving from one end to the other. The sleaving is braided so when you push it together it gets fatter. If you hold the wires, then squeaze the sleaving against it, it scoots about an inch or so.
4. Cut heatshink and place over frayed ends of sleaving.
5. Use heatgun or tip of solder iron to shrink the shrink (<-- ungh?). When it stops shirinking quickly, its done. You keep heating it, it will melt.
6. Basque in your own glory.
Heres some pics of the process:
Im trying to illustrate the scooting the sleaving here, but I think you get it.
Placing heatshrink 101.
Now for the finished products, ahh so pretty.
Then, I used an age old technique to get the sleaving on.
1. Measure and cut.
2. Singe ends with lighter to keep from fraying.
3. Use the acordian method to scoot the sleaving from one end to the other. The sleaving is braided so when you push it together it gets fatter. If you hold the wires, then squeaze the sleaving against it, it scoots about an inch or so.
4. Cut heatshink and place over frayed ends of sleaving.
5. Use heatgun or tip of solder iron to shrink the shrink (<-- ungh?). When it stops shirinking quickly, its done. You keep heating it, it will melt.
6. Basque in your own glory.
Heres some pics of the process:
Im trying to illustrate the scooting the sleaving here, but I think you get it.
Placing heatshrink 101.
Now for the finished products, ahh so pretty.
Last edited:
OP
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2002
- Location
- WPAFB, OH
- Thread Starter
- #27
Posted on: 08-02-03 03:54 PM
I took some pictures of the cables installed again. I may move them around to clean them up.
Sleaving makes the cables stiff to rout, but clean looking nonetheless.
One thing I did notice, and I dont like, is that the USB headers are positioned so that the USB cable needs to run halfway across the mobo. That wont look very nice.
I took some pictures of the cables installed again. I may move them around to clean them up.
Sleaving makes the cables stiff to rout, but clean looking nonetheless.
One thing I did notice, and I dont like, is that the USB headers are positioned so that the USB cable needs to run halfway across the mobo. That wont look very nice.
Last edited:
OP
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2002
- Location
- WPAFB, OH
- Thread Starter
- #28
Posted on: 08-03-03 03:49 PM
I decided I need a relay switch for the water pump. Its just easier, and cleaner.
Pump, Relay -- Bliss.
Unfortunately I ran out of batteries last night, so I dont have pictures of the relay switch being made, but heres the final product:
Front, back. This was the easy part.
The pcb has a standard relay switch, normally open. I put a secondary switch on it just so I can flip the pump on and off to charge the systems ect. The brown molex connectors are quick dsconnect so I can just unclick the cables when I need. The red, green black will lead to a standard Nima connector for the AC power.
I also may put a blue indicator LED on the board to indicate whether the switch and pump is on/off.
...
I decided I need a relay switch for the water pump. Its just easier, and cleaner.
Pump, Relay -- Bliss.
Unfortunately I ran out of batteries last night, so I dont have pictures of the relay switch being made, but heres the final product:
Front, back. This was the easy part.
The pcb has a standard relay switch, normally open. I put a secondary switch on it just so I can flip the pump on and off to charge the systems ect. The brown molex connectors are quick dsconnect so I can just unclick the cables when I need. The red, green black will lead to a standard Nima connector for the AC power.
I also may put a blue indicator LED on the board to indicate whether the switch and pump is on/off.
...
Last edited:
OP
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2002
- Location
- WPAFB, OH
- Thread Starter
- #29
Posted on: 08-03-03 03:53 PM
Next I chopped the rat tail off the pump and soldered the new connectors on.
Ouchies.
Then I set forth to make the cables that would connect to the computers 12v atx connector and the extension cable for the pump to the relay switch.
Old conector, and the new pretty one!
Heres a pic of the whole assembly outside of the case:
Fabulous!
Next I chopped the rat tail off the pump and soldered the new connectors on.
Ouchies.
Then I set forth to make the cables that would connect to the computers 12v atx connector and the extension cable for the pump to the relay switch.
Old conector, and the new pretty one!
Heres a pic of the whole assembly outside of the case:
Fabulous!
Last edited:
OP
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2002
- Location
- WPAFB, OH
- Thread Starter
- #30
Posted on: 08-03-03 09:30 PM
I got an odd hankerin to cut up some stuff again. So I grabbed the first thing in sight:
"Oh please Nooo!"
I then put some random pencil markings on it and began to slice:
Slice, sliced, slicing.
Then I took a break for some pictures:
Sweet.
I got an odd hankerin to cut up some stuff again. So I grabbed the first thing in sight:
"Oh please Nooo!"
I then put some random pencil markings on it and began to slice:
Slice, sliced, slicing.
Then I took a break for some pictures:
Sweet.
Last edited:
OP
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2002
- Location
- WPAFB, OH
- Thread Starter
- #31
Posted on: 08-03-03 09:38 PM
Next I decided the mobo tray needed to be more stalky. So I lopped off the end of it.
"I feel lighter, and less bulky!"
Then I stopped for another picture:
Youd think I was done, but...
Next I cut out the fan grill from the back of the tray, we all know these are one of the first mods in an overclockers agenda. I left the little tabs cuz I thought they looked kind of cool.
I also cutout holes for the Nima connector and two holes for toggle switches for the case lighting. The toggle holes were a pain is the arse. I didnt have a 3/4" drill bit, or a drill press. So it took me half an hour of rounding out 5/8" holes to 3/4". My arm is tired.
"Im holy!"
Lastly I stopped for another pic:
So naked, but so nice.
Next I decided the mobo tray needed to be more stalky. So I lopped off the end of it.
"I feel lighter, and less bulky!"
Then I stopped for another picture:
Youd think I was done, but...
Next I cut out the fan grill from the back of the tray, we all know these are one of the first mods in an overclockers agenda. I left the little tabs cuz I thought they looked kind of cool.
I also cutout holes for the Nima connector and two holes for toggle switches for the case lighting. The toggle holes were a pain is the arse. I didnt have a 3/4" drill bit, or a drill press. So it took me half an hour of rounding out 5/8" holes to 3/4". My arm is tired.
"Im holy!"
Lastly I stopped for another pic:
So naked, but so nice.
Last edited:
OP
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2002
- Location
- WPAFB, OH
- Thread Starter
- #32
Posted on: 08-03-03 09:53 PM
Lastly heres some pics of the final tray, all cleaned up with a mobo and switches in it.
The reason for cutting up the tray?
Well, I would like easy access to the back of the motherboard, for waterblocks, hold down plates and because the tracings look really sweet to some people. Plus, whats the point of a right side window if theres nothing to look at?
OK to the pics!
They speak for themselves.
Lemme know what you think.
Lastly heres some pics of the final tray, all cleaned up with a mobo and switches in it.
The reason for cutting up the tray?
Well, I would like easy access to the back of the motherboard, for waterblocks, hold down plates and because the tracings look really sweet to some people. Plus, whats the point of a right side window if theres nothing to look at?
OK to the pics!
They speak for themselves.
Lemme know what you think.
Last edited:
OP
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2002
- Location
- WPAFB, OH
- Thread Starter
- #33
Posted on: 08-06-03 10:33 PM
Sorry for the lack of posts lately. Ive been busy, and waiting for parts... and doing stuff.
But!
Today Ive got enough to post something!
Ive been thinking and brainstorming on what to do to sprice up the indiside of the cases. So I came up with an idea like I always do.
First thing was I bought a couple cans of UV paint. Its a clearcoat paint that contains Phosphorescent powder that glows under a blacklight. The paint itself is washable until covered with a sealer or clearcoat.
Paint. Plain and simple.
Next I bought several cans of Acrylic sealer. The satin finish can be used as a primer, while the glossy give it a good finish.
Acrylic Sealer. Plain and simple.
Then I chose my victim and masked off what I didnt want covered in paint.
... Paint Me!
Now, since the paint itself is clear, I really couldnt take any pics of the process. Though I can give you some hints if you try this on your own.
First off, the paint like I said is clear. The best way to create an even coat is to paint in complete darkness. Yep, darkness. Plug in a blacklight and you can see where every particle of the paint goes, its spooky.
Next, if you use an acrylic sealer on an aluminum case, use LIGHT EVEN coats. If you put too much on at once, it created small dark spots if too much was appliead at once, making the UV paint look uneven. It got soo bad in one spot, I had to strip the whole coat off with gasoline and start again.
Another thing, the more UV paint you spray on, the more paint you spray on. It doesnt get brighter or more even. Once you have covered an area, its done, more paint will be a waste, and while this paint is roughly $13 a can, its not smart to waste it.
Also, glossy clearcoat on aluminum looks sweet, and it makes the UV paint and case scratch resisitant.
Ok, heres some pics if you can make them out. Theyre of the mobo tray and case, with several coats of glossy acrylic.
Go towards the Light!
UPDATE!: Vapochill will be here on Friday! 3-day shipping from Denmark. The case panels are shipped and Im begining the design of the Vapo case panels and a Fan grill. Also, I will be ordering the rest of the comp parts this friday. So excited...
Sorry for the lack of posts lately. Ive been busy, and waiting for parts... and doing stuff.
But!
Today Ive got enough to post something!
Ive been thinking and brainstorming on what to do to sprice up the indiside of the cases. So I came up with an idea like I always do.
First thing was I bought a couple cans of UV paint. Its a clearcoat paint that contains Phosphorescent powder that glows under a blacklight. The paint itself is washable until covered with a sealer or clearcoat.
Paint. Plain and simple.
Next I bought several cans of Acrylic sealer. The satin finish can be used as a primer, while the glossy give it a good finish.
Acrylic Sealer. Plain and simple.
Then I chose my victim and masked off what I didnt want covered in paint.
... Paint Me!
Now, since the paint itself is clear, I really couldnt take any pics of the process. Though I can give you some hints if you try this on your own.
First off, the paint like I said is clear. The best way to create an even coat is to paint in complete darkness. Yep, darkness. Plug in a blacklight and you can see where every particle of the paint goes, its spooky.
Next, if you use an acrylic sealer on an aluminum case, use LIGHT EVEN coats. If you put too much on at once, it created small dark spots if too much was appliead at once, making the UV paint look uneven. It got soo bad in one spot, I had to strip the whole coat off with gasoline and start again.
Another thing, the more UV paint you spray on, the more paint you spray on. It doesnt get brighter or more even. Once you have covered an area, its done, more paint will be a waste, and while this paint is roughly $13 a can, its not smart to waste it.
Also, glossy clearcoat on aluminum looks sweet, and it makes the UV paint and case scratch resisitant.
Ok, heres some pics if you can make them out. Theyre of the mobo tray and case, with several coats of glossy acrylic.
Go towards the Light!
UPDATE!: Vapochill will be here on Friday! 3-day shipping from Denmark. The case panels are shipped and Im begining the design of the Vapo case panels and a Fan grill. Also, I will be ordering the rest of the comp parts this friday. So excited...
Last edited:
OP
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2002
- Location
- WPAFB, OH
- Thread Starter
- #34
Posted on: 08-07-03 10:41 PM
Hopefully youll like these too. I couldnt keep this from you guys...
First off, I never realized how much the atx connector postition sucks on the Abit board. Though Ill train that Mobo connector to go where I want it:
Heel boy!
I slapped 2 cold cathode UV blacklights in there just to see what the beast looks like.
Mmmm, ominous glowing...
You can see in the last two pics, how sweet it looks even in ambient light. Now without the CC's on, it has an opaque glow also, its so creepy. I love it. Wish I could show you in person.
SniperXX said:I havent been on the forum for a few days, and man this thread grew 2 pages since I last checked it! Looking pimp as usual there Fushy. Keep it up and keep the picts a coming!! W00t w00t!
Hopefully youll like these too. I couldnt keep this from you guys...
First off, I never realized how much the atx connector postition sucks on the Abit board. Though Ill train that Mobo connector to go where I want it:
Heel boy!
I slapped 2 cold cathode UV blacklights in there just to see what the beast looks like.
Mmmm, ominous glowing...
You can see in the last two pics, how sweet it looks even in ambient light. Now without the CC's on, it has an opaque glow also, its so creepy. I love it. Wish I could show you in person.
Last edited:
OP
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2002
- Location
- WPAFB, OH
- Thread Starter
- #35
Posted on: 08-08-03 05:30 PM
Its finally arrived. After waiting 2 weeks for all of Denmark to come off holiday, and 2 nights shipping from that cold cold country -- Its here. My Vapochill PE!
Yay! ... Wood Box?
Strangely enough it came in a wood box. Guess they do things differently internationally. I have to say though, 2 day shipping from Denmark was pretty impressive.
Upon opening the wood box, which had 4 long screws, I found the goods. Well packed too by the way.
Stuff in box!
I pulled out all of the components and laid them out, went down the packing list for once. The unit came with lots of stuff, chillcontrol 2.0, misc cables, software, mounting hardware, thermal goop, neoprene insulation and anti-condensation heater.
Stuff out of box!
Heres some closeups of the Vapochill PE, Im sure youve all seen them before. The first is of the Condensor and the evaporator. The second shows the units size compared to an ordinary tomato. This thing is compact! Good for case modders.
Oh so sweet. In a nerdy kind of way.
Its finally arrived. After waiting 2 weeks for all of Denmark to come off holiday, and 2 nights shipping from that cold cold country -- Its here. My Vapochill PE!
Yay! ... Wood Box?
Strangely enough it came in a wood box. Guess they do things differently internationally. I have to say though, 2 day shipping from Denmark was pretty impressive.
Upon opening the wood box, which had 4 long screws, I found the goods. Well packed too by the way.
Stuff in box!
I pulled out all of the components and laid them out, went down the packing list for once. The unit came with lots of stuff, chillcontrol 2.0, misc cables, software, mounting hardware, thermal goop, neoprene insulation and anti-condensation heater.
Stuff out of box!
Heres some closeups of the Vapochill PE, Im sure youve all seen them before. The first is of the Condensor and the evaporator. The second shows the units size compared to an ordinary tomato. This thing is compact! Good for case modders.
Oh so sweet. In a nerdy kind of way.
Last edited:
OP
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2002
- Location
- WPAFB, OH
- Thread Starter
- #36
Posted on: 08-08-03 05:37 PM
An order I had placed with SVC came in today also. Just some random things I had ordered:
... Not as cool as a Vapo.
I got some more shrink tubing, some cables for fans and CC's, and a backup heatsink.
Ive been using WC'ing for a long while, so Im out of the loop on air coolers. I grabbed a Vantec Aeroflow TMD Fan heatsink, its petite. Ill be using this as just a backup heatsink for when I want to play around with my setup, and when Im working on the Vapochill.
Heres some pics of the sink, its a nice design, seems to get good reviews too. And at a little under $30, you cant beat it.
Tiny sink. Wussy powered.
An order I had placed with SVC came in today also. Just some random things I had ordered:
... Not as cool as a Vapo.
I got some more shrink tubing, some cables for fans and CC's, and a backup heatsink.
Ive been using WC'ing for a long while, so Im out of the loop on air coolers. I grabbed a Vantec Aeroflow TMD Fan heatsink, its petite. Ill be using this as just a backup heatsink for when I want to play around with my setup, and when Im working on the Vapochill.
Heres some pics of the sink, its a nice design, seems to get good reviews too. And at a little under $30, you cant beat it.
Tiny sink. Wussy powered.
Last edited:
OP
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2002
- Location
- WPAFB, OH
- Thread Starter
- #37
Posted on: 08-10-03 12:01 AM
Sorry I havent posted much, I ran out of batteries for my camera. Ill bring you up to speed tommorrow.
To the topic at hand. I just had an electrical fire inside of my case! Fortunately I was working in the area it flared up in and so I ripped out the wires and threw it in the sink before it hurt anything. That would have sucked, hardcore.
Not cool.
Its a cold cathode inverter cable. After inspection what it looks like is the 5v pin on the molex connector, shorted out with the ground by hitting one of the bolts that the pump hangs on. So within a second, 30-40amps were running through that 18guage wire. It melted the insulation, melted the molex, and set the wire sleaving on fire. Luckily it was just the 5v line, so the inverter and cold cathodes are still good. The power supply is still good, the antecs have fuses and protection circuits so its built like a tank.
Its smells bad, and my kitchen is all smokey.
Other than my brush with death, heres a pic of my case currently. As you can see Im begining to layout my WC'er. Also, most of the wiring is done, except for the final cold cathodes. I need more sleaving.
Lookin good joker.
Ill retroactively fill you in on what Ive done when I get more batteries tommorrow.
Enjoy.
Damn it smells...
Sorry I havent posted much, I ran out of batteries for my camera. Ill bring you up to speed tommorrow.
To the topic at hand. I just had an electrical fire inside of my case! Fortunately I was working in the area it flared up in and so I ripped out the wires and threw it in the sink before it hurt anything. That would have sucked, hardcore.
Not cool.
Its a cold cathode inverter cable. After inspection what it looks like is the 5v pin on the molex connector, shorted out with the ground by hitting one of the bolts that the pump hangs on. So within a second, 30-40amps were running through that 18guage wire. It melted the insulation, melted the molex, and set the wire sleaving on fire. Luckily it was just the 5v line, so the inverter and cold cathodes are still good. The power supply is still good, the antecs have fuses and protection circuits so its built like a tank.
Its smells bad, and my kitchen is all smokey.
Other than my brush with death, heres a pic of my case currently. As you can see Im begining to layout my WC'er. Also, most of the wiring is done, except for the final cold cathodes. I need more sleaving.
Lookin good joker.
Ill retroactively fill you in on what Ive done when I get more batteries tommorrow.
Enjoy.
Damn it smells...
Last edited:
OP
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2002
- Location
- WPAFB, OH
- Thread Starter
- #38
Posted on: 08-10-03 04:35 PM
So I gotta bring you up to speed today. So here we go.
This weekend I had planned on finishing the top case wiring and get the water cooler together and leak tested. Well lets see if I did that.
To start off with I wired up all of the case fans. This one being the mobo tray fan, which I have as an input fan to cool off the mosfet and power supply. This will also create positive pressure in the case. Otherwise it would be very negative with the 120mm blowhole (I hate dust). I also zipped up the atx cables so they would stay in place.
Yup. Fan.
Moving along, I worked on the wiring mess that will be p in the top of my case. I dont want to see wires, so this will be where most of them are stashed.
Which way is up?
I also added a 33ohm 1 watt resistor in line to the 120mm fan in the blowhole. Just to let you know, as far as I know there is only 1 manufacturer of 120mm UV orange fans. Theyre 39db which is just too loud for me. So I showed that fan whose boss. You can barely hear it now.
120mm fan = my wench.
Moving on, I wanted to get those pesky Cold Cathode inverters out of sight while reducing the amount of cables running around the case. So This is what I came up with:
Whosa?
I lined them all up and velcro'd them right above the CD rom cage. Theres about 1 1/4" gap up at the top, just enough to fit the inverters and cram some wires in there. To power them up, I made this:
Crazy cables...
Its an extra long power cable that runs 3 inverters from 1 molex connector. Theyre run in parralel so each inverter gets the right voltage, and then the quick disconnects are long enough to reach halfway across the case -- out of sight -- and connect to the switch on the mobo tray. So all the CC lights are controled with one switch.
Moving on again, heres a shot of the front of the case where the intake 80mm fans are wired up, and a mess of cables resides. If you can tell, I shortened all the wires for the fans, and put in splitters so I can controll the front intake fans, the mobo tray fan and the 120mm blowhole fan all from the front Lian Li switch. Slick.
Bling Bling.
So I gotta bring you up to speed today. So here we go.
This weekend I had planned on finishing the top case wiring and get the water cooler together and leak tested. Well lets see if I did that.
To start off with I wired up all of the case fans. This one being the mobo tray fan, which I have as an input fan to cool off the mosfet and power supply. This will also create positive pressure in the case. Otherwise it would be very negative with the 120mm blowhole (I hate dust). I also zipped up the atx cables so they would stay in place.
Yup. Fan.
Moving along, I worked on the wiring mess that will be p in the top of my case. I dont want to see wires, so this will be where most of them are stashed.
Which way is up?
I also added a 33ohm 1 watt resistor in line to the 120mm fan in the blowhole. Just to let you know, as far as I know there is only 1 manufacturer of 120mm UV orange fans. Theyre 39db which is just too loud for me. So I showed that fan whose boss. You can barely hear it now.
120mm fan = my wench.
Moving on, I wanted to get those pesky Cold Cathode inverters out of sight while reducing the amount of cables running around the case. So This is what I came up with:
Whosa?
I lined them all up and velcro'd them right above the CD rom cage. Theres about 1 1/4" gap up at the top, just enough to fit the inverters and cram some wires in there. To power them up, I made this:
Crazy cables...
Its an extra long power cable that runs 3 inverters from 1 molex connector. Theyre run in parralel so each inverter gets the right voltage, and then the quick disconnects are long enough to reach halfway across the case -- out of sight -- and connect to the switch on the mobo tray. So all the CC lights are controled with one switch.
Moving on again, heres a shot of the front of the case where the intake 80mm fans are wired up, and a mess of cables resides. If you can tell, I shortened all the wires for the fans, and put in splitters so I can controll the front intake fans, the mobo tray fan and the 120mm blowhole fan all from the front Lian Li switch. Slick.
Bling Bling.
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OP
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2002
- Location
- WPAFB, OH
- Thread Starter
- #39
Posted on: 08-10-03 04:53 PM
Now that all of that is done. I can move on to todays activities.
I started off drilling some holes in the case so I can hard mount the resevoir.
Holy case.
After that I assembled the water cooler. I am using R-3603 Tygon tubing, 1/2" ID 1/8" wall thickness. Now if you everb have trouble getting some tubing over a hose barb, do this:
Whats he doin?
Boil some water and soak the tubing in it for 2 minutes. Yeah the tygon can take it. Then Its very pliable and can be stretched and slipped over just about any barb.
When I assemble my water coolers for leak testing, I like assemble everything inside of the case, in their proper orientations. This way I know the system will not leak when setup for good. Heres a pic of the setup with waterblocks suspended with wire in about the places theyre going to live.
Highwire waterblocks!
Now alot of people like to use metal hose clamps and crazy amounts of paranoia precausions when assembling water coolers. I on the otherhand like to use plain old zip ties. I use zip ties as they can get the same clamping pressure as most hose clamps, without ripping the hosing apart. Which isnt a good thing. I also like zip ties because theyre asthetically pleasing and theyre thin enough so that you can place the clamping pressure -- right behind or between a barb getting an excellent seal. I have used zip ties in all of my systems and I have never had a leak, even during leak testing.
Heres a shot of the backside of the setup. More of that mess of cable. Should be hidden by the side panels... I hope.
I hate you cables.
Next, when filling up my watercoolers, I like to use plain old distilled water and just a small capfull of water wetter. Too much water wetter can actually hurt your colling efficiency. The tiny bottle is Neon Green UV dye. I swear it is. It looks red though.
Water, wetter and dye!
Heres the system all charged up and running. I added 1 drop of that UV dye expecting it to be a light yellow. To my surprise, 1 drop was way more than enough. Funny.
Thats just one drop, I swear it.
Ill let it all run for 24 hours to get bubbles out and leak test. Tommorrow, I should get PC parts so I may have a half done system booted up this week while I work on the vapochill.
Now that all of that is done. I can move on to todays activities.
I started off drilling some holes in the case so I can hard mount the resevoir.
Holy case.
After that I assembled the water cooler. I am using R-3603 Tygon tubing, 1/2" ID 1/8" wall thickness. Now if you everb have trouble getting some tubing over a hose barb, do this:
Whats he doin?
Boil some water and soak the tubing in it for 2 minutes. Yeah the tygon can take it. Then Its very pliable and can be stretched and slipped over just about any barb.
When I assemble my water coolers for leak testing, I like assemble everything inside of the case, in their proper orientations. This way I know the system will not leak when setup for good. Heres a pic of the setup with waterblocks suspended with wire in about the places theyre going to live.
Highwire waterblocks!
Now alot of people like to use metal hose clamps and crazy amounts of paranoia precausions when assembling water coolers. I on the otherhand like to use plain old zip ties. I use zip ties as they can get the same clamping pressure as most hose clamps, without ripping the hosing apart. Which isnt a good thing. I also like zip ties because theyre asthetically pleasing and theyre thin enough so that you can place the clamping pressure -- right behind or between a barb getting an excellent seal. I have used zip ties in all of my systems and I have never had a leak, even during leak testing.
Heres a shot of the backside of the setup. More of that mess of cable. Should be hidden by the side panels... I hope.
I hate you cables.
Next, when filling up my watercoolers, I like to use plain old distilled water and just a small capfull of water wetter. Too much water wetter can actually hurt your colling efficiency. The tiny bottle is Neon Green UV dye. I swear it is. It looks red though.
Water, wetter and dye!
Heres the system all charged up and running. I added 1 drop of that UV dye expecting it to be a light yellow. To my surprise, 1 drop was way more than enough. Funny.
Thats just one drop, I swear it.
Ill let it all run for 24 hours to get bubbles out and leak test. Tommorrow, I should get PC parts so I may have a half done system booted up this week while I work on the vapochill.
Last edited:
OP
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2002
- Location
- WPAFB, OH
- Thread Starter
- #40
Posted on: 08-11-03 09:43 PM
Sorry, no mods today. Waiting on parts, and kinda busy.
Though I did want to leave you guys with this sweet trio of pics. These photos were taken in:
ULTRA Big Super Fantastic HIGH Res Format!
I fired up the Vapochill PE and let it run for a few minutes. Not too shabby, and its whisper quiet too. Those are magical words kids. Im pretty sure I can get those temps dropped down a bit more with a fan replacement and an optimized fill of R134 refridgerant after I drain the system for modding.
And heres Mr. Frosty:
Aint technology sweet?
Sorry, no mods today. Waiting on parts, and kinda busy.
Though I did want to leave you guys with this sweet trio of pics. These photos were taken in:
ULTRA Big Super Fantastic HIGH Res Format!
I fired up the Vapochill PE and let it run for a few minutes. Not too shabby, and its whisper quiet too. Those are magical words kids. Im pretty sure I can get those temps dropped down a bit more with a fan replacement and an optimized fill of R134 refridgerant after I drain the system for modding.
And heres Mr. Frosty:
Aint technology sweet?
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