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psu wire cut fix

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hollywood96

Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2013
so i was sleeving my non-modular power supply cables and i happened to cut a black ground wire clean in half on accident. is there a way to fix this or am i looking at a new power supply here? could i possibly sodder the wire together or should i just not risk frying my mobo?
 
It's a ground. Solder it back together, heatshrink it, and finish your sleeve job. No harm done.
 
Solder and heatshrink the cable, should be fine.

Edit: Nice timing Scott.
 
wow that relieves alot of the worry coming out of my wallet. thank you very much for the quick responses. ill post some pics of the job once my computer is back up. currently using a laptop running at the same speed of most smartphones.
 
You don't even need solder if you're using heatshrink. Just twist the wires together, and the heatshrink should hold it together.
 
I wouldn't trust my whole system to that.

+1 too that one. Plus I'm using paracord rather than conventional heat shrink. Looks nicer to me.

I've been doing solderless wiring for years on computers and motorbikes, and never had a single issue. As long as the heatshrink is the right size and you heat it evenly, you don't need solder. It forms a very strong connection on its own. Just be sure to twist the wires together properly first.
 
I've been doing solderless wiring for years on computers and motorbikes, and never had a single issue. As long as the heatshrink is the right size and you heat it evenly, you don't need solder. It forms a very strong connection on its own. Just be sure to twist the wires together properly first.
We've had the most issues with people who say "never had a single issue." :D

Besides, the primary goal here is appearance, and a twist connection is ugly. In this case the right fix (either solder the wires inline or use a bare metal inline butt crimp splice and then cover either with heatshrink) is also the prettiest.
 
Besides, the primary goal here is appearance, and a twist connection is ugly. In this case the right fix (either solder the wires inline or use a bare metal inline butt crimp splice and then cover either with heatshrink) is also the prettiest.

In this case appearance doesn't matter since the heatshrink will cover the cable joins. You won't even know that there's no solder in there without removing the heatshrink. I usually strip off about 30mm of insulation on each wire, put the heatshrink on one end, twist the wires together, move the heatshrink into the right place and then heat it up. The main thing to ensure is that there is a proper circuit in which current can flow. Since the heatshrink if properly applied will squeeze the 2 wires together and hold them in place even better than solder will, I believe using solder to be largely pointless in this instance. The wiring on my motorbike that I've made is subjected to extreme heat from the engine, vibration and rain, and everything performs as it should with the method I've used. I buy several different sizes of heatshrink since it's so cheap and use a size that is just big enough to fit over the wiring.
 
Since the heatshrink if properly applied will squeeze the 2 wires together and hold them in place even better than solder will, I believe using solder to be largely pointless in this instance.

This is totally false.

You should always solder your connections if possible. At the very least you should use a crimp connector.

Just because it has worked on your motorcycle does not support the position that it is superior to solder.
 
This is totally false.

If the connection is so strong that it takes a lot of force to pull apart, then where are the wires going to magically go? Since the heatshrink can form a stronger connection than the solder, the weakest link is the solder, not the heatshrink. You must have been using poor quality heatshrink, or not applying it properly, or heatshrink that's too big. I usually use heatshrink that's about 3 times the length of the exposed wires, and I've NEVER had a failure. If it's strong enough to withstand the comparatively brutal condtitions on a motorbike, it will be more than enough for a computer since it will be under very little stress. If you twist the wires together properly in the first place, you won't have any problems.
 
Casing strength (heatshrink), has nothing to do with electrical connectivity.

Soldering joins the wires together creating a better path for the electricity.
 
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If the connection is so strong that it takes a lot of force to pull apart, then where are the wires going to magically go? Since the heatshrink can form a stronger connection than the solder, the weakest link is the solder, not the heatshrink. You must have been using poor quality heatshrink, or not applying it properly, or heatshrink that's too big. I usually use heatshrink that's about 3 times the length of the exposed wires, and I've NEVER had a failure. If it's strong enough to withstand the comparatively brutal condtitions on a motorbike, it will be more than enough for a computer since it will be under very little stress. If you twist the wires together properly in the first place, you won't have any problems.

Using 98% Ag solder (2% Sn) would be ideal. I don't know how you come to the conclusion that the solder is "the weakest link". The heat shrink is primarily insulation against the elements, color coding for wire identification. Although it is not weak by nature, such as paper or cotton insulation, it is not intended as a join in application.

You state that you use it exclusively without difficulties. You're having some good experience under the circumstances. But no way would I recommend heat shrink as an electrical connector solely. I suggest anyone following this thread to consider all posts carefully. :cool:
 
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