Rennovated T61 drops WiFi

[Markg22b]

I recently upgraded the machine (with some help from you all) with an SSD, fan, Middleton BIOS and clean Win10--now it's a great backup to my P50. However, while the machine has no problem connecting to the network and internet with Ethernet--turning on the radios switch and using WiFi, the machine will lose connection within a few hours at most.

The OEM is an Intel WiFi Link 4965AGN which Intel no longer supports. The OS reports no problem with the it.

Since the machine was shipped with Vista 32 bit and later upgraded to Win7 32 bit then Win7 64 bit I'm sure that when I did the hardware upgrade and installed Win10 that was a compatibility problem for the WiFi card.

I downloaded Intel's newest driver set (Intel® PROSet/Wireless Software and Drivers for Intel® Wireless WiFi Link 4965 Date: 17-Aug-2017 Version: Latest (Latest) OS: Windows 7, 32-bit*, Windows 7, 64-bit*, Windows Vista 32*) that does not support Win10. The problem remains.

Has anyone run into this situation?

Is there a driver written by another company that is also compatible with the Intel card and Win10?

Worst comes to worst I'll just use a cable connect with the T61 but I'd much rather ($ and difficulty permitting) prefer to have the WiFi back functioning.

Suggestions?

 

[Daleon]

Can always use something like this:
https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...HiIERGN_O_GrNst5iDLh1S-3JVEq0zI4aAj2CEALw_wcB

or you may be able to replace the wifi chipset completely:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...yKnLwwnVyFbw8oGXpr4aAiJ6EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[trents]

I would go with the USB dongle option. With laptops and trying to upgrade internal wifi cards you can run into "white list" issues. I use a dual band USB wifi dongle on my laptop because the internal wifi card was unreliable. It works great!

 

[Markg22b]

Before inserting the USB adapter would disabling the Intel driver be sufficient to avoid any laptop WiFi adapter confusion?

Using the USB adapter I'm assuming then that the 'radios switch' could be either on or off since it's no longer switching anything?

Does the USB adapter install by finding a suitable driver within Windows 10?

Mark

 

[trents]

Before inserting the USB adapter would disabling the Intel driver be sufficient to avoid any laptop WiFi adapter confusion?

I would do this, yes.

Using the USB adapter I'm assuming then that the 'radios switch' could be either on or off since it's no longer switching anything?

I don't think that would make any difference one way or the other since the radio is disabled in Device Manager according to your first question. But you can try it in the "Off" position if it seems to create a conflict.

Does the USB adapter install by finding a suitable driver within Windows 10?

Usually, yes. As long as Windows 10 has a native driver that covers the dongle's radio chip set. So, probably "yes" but not necessarily. Make sure you choose a USB dongle that is Windows 10 compatible. I got this one last week and it worked great right out of the box with native Win 10 drivers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MYQW7IR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mark

 

[Markg22b]

I ordered your https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks

 

[trents]

Let us know how it works out for you.

 

[Markg22b]

>>>.it worked great right out of the box with native Win 10 drivers:>>>>

2 problems--

1. The adapter (Mailiya AC600Mbps Wireless Adapter Mini USB Wifi Adapter) sort of works. In fact it makes no sense it is working given the adapter utility's reporting. I used the driver (Realtek) installation disc. After install, open the Realtek utility and it seems to show it is not functioning (attached screenshots). Device manager properties says it's working. Control panel network connections shows the driver as WiFi2 with all green bars (WiFi 1 is the disabled internal Intel adapter). I can connect to the internet and local network--which all makes no sense to me.

Although I've entered the SSID/key numerous times in the utility, same apparently doesn't 'stick' (per screenshot). The key does stick when, seeing no connection on the status icon, I click connect and enter the key as prompted.

The WiFi still drop out periodically requiring some form of re-engagement--just not as frequent as with the Intel.

2. When I reboot, sometimes the OS will re-enable or re-install the Intel driver, disregard the USB adapter and try to use the OEM adapter. I'm thinking I should uninstall the Intel driver set (not from device manager as I had done previously but from programs/features) that I had downloaded/installed prior to posting here? However, the Intel adapter will likely fall back to the original Intel driver.

I notice that you did not use the driver that came with the USB adapter? There was ~3-5 minutes after I inserted the USB adapter until I fired up the driver CD install. During that time the OS did not recognize the adapter as new hardware with a prompt to go looking for a driver?

EDIT: I have been mistakenly interchanging the terms SSID and key. It still is the SSID that is missing from Realtek screenshots. I could provide a shot that shows that the SSID was indeed entered (by me) in the utility. I'm wondering if I have confused the utility by, during setup, naming the profile the same as the SSID name?

 

[Markg22b]

The bulk of what I posted above remains true, except:

1. The adapter has not dropped off as of yesterday morning.

2. Instead of uninstalling the Intel driver, yesterday morning I disabled it and since then the OS has made no attempt to get it back involved.

It looks as if the only way I can change the profile name is uninstalling and installing the Realtek driver which I'm not doing unless the connection goes problematic.

It still makes zero sense that the Realtek util (per posted screenshot) indicates 0 signal strength and 0 statistics while same is connected and functioning and the (in addition to the OS wireless icon) the Realtek icon displays full green bars...

 

[trents]

I did not use the driver disk included in the box the product shipped with. I never use manufacturer supplied device drivers for USB adapters unless the native Windows drivers are missing or don't work correctly. First of all, they are likely outdated and secondly they often add other crap software you don't need. Third, windows updates will usually kick them out and replace them with Microsoft's own drivers. You don't need the Realtek wireless LAN utility. I think that's what is causing you problems.

I would go into Programs and Features and uninstall any drivers and software you installed for the device. Uninstall also any drivers associated with the onboard wifi built into the laptop. Be careful not to uninstall the wired LAN driver. You may need to also go into Task Manager and Startup and uncheck any entry for the Realtek Wireless LAN utility that might be there so it doesn't try to load on startup.

Reboot the computer.

Go to Device Manager and check the listing for the device. Is it there? Is there a yellow caution sign symbol associate with it? If it is there and there is not caution sign symbol it is properly installed.

Look at the notification area of the task bar (far right corner). Find the Wifi symbol. It should be faint with an asterik superimposed, indicating there are wireless networks available. Click on that symbol and then click on your network SSID. Click on the connect option when the window opens up. It will try to connect but then prompt you to enter the network password. That should do it.

 

[Markg22b]

I uninstalled the Realtek software (Realtek + Cisco). I uninstalled the remaining chunk (Bluetooth) from the new Intel Wifi set that I had left alone when I previously uninstalled the set. Zero in Startup. Rebooted.

The Realtek utility is no longer present among Taskbar icons, however:

1. The OEM Intel adapter came back to life after I had previously tried killing it by first uninstalling and later disabling. I again uninstalled it.

2. The Realtek driver is still being used and this is where I'm stuck. If I right click the Realtek adapter (that's what the OS is calling it) there's no choice to delete the driver, just uninstall/disable the 'device'. When I click Driver Details, there appears to be another driver (Microsoft) but I'm not seeing how you get rid of the Realtek driver in favor of Microsoft other than doing what I just did in #1?

 

[trents]

Click on the last button in the left most picture: "Uninstall Device" and once you do that I think you will get a check box to uninstall the driver as well. Then reboot.


But, is it working now? That's the important question.

 

[trents]

Actually, I checked my laptop and you should have both the realtek driver and the microsoft driver listed under driver details. The first one is for the device itself and the second one is for the "wifi bus". Typically, Microsoft uses manufacturer supplied drivers that have been vetted by Microsoft for the devices themselves unless they have attained "universal" status and just become part of the OS.

 

[Markg22b]

I'll be sure it's working if i keep the machine on for several days and it stays connected. I'll let you know.

However, I still have the second problem of the reappearing OEM adapter. I just rebooted the computer and the OEM adapter is back again.

The WiFi Link 4965AGN properties shows it 'working properly' and the driver offers the button to disable or uninstall. Network connections for the OEM adapter has 5 green bars, Not connected and an 'X' vs. WiFi 2 Realtek 5 green bars and no 'X'. Is this what normally occurs when you add a USB adapter? The internal adapter will always be there waiting to cause trouble?

Further, just after boot although the WiFi icon appeared as fine and dandy, 3 1/4 circles--click on it and it says that WiFi is not connected (and the machine didn't appear on the network). Then I realized that the work 'WiFi' at top was now a dropdown. I clicked and there's WiFi 1 and WiFi 2. I selected WiFi 2 instead of WiFi 1 and, voila, I was connected to both WiFi and the network.

Any ideas on how to actually kill the OEM adapter so I don't have to do this 'choose which WiFi' after booting?

Mark

 

[trents]

The number of bars showing after connection is often not the same as what shows in the list of available networks before connecting. Have you checked down link and uplink transfer speeds for both adapters on speedtest.net? Do you have a dual band router? If you have a dual band router you will see two network SSIDs, one for the 2.4 ghz band and one for the 5.8 ghz band. The 5.8 ghz band theoretically is faster but does not penetrate walls as well or carry as far. But that can be offset by less competition for available bandwidth than is typical on the 2.4 ghz band. How far is the laptop from the wifi router?

Didn't you say there was a physical switch on the laptop to turn off the wifi? I used to own a Dell Studio that had one. You might also be able to disable the onboard NIC in bios.

One way for certain to disable the onboard NIC is to remove it. Often there is a little compartment hatch it lives under on the bottom side of the laptop. There usually is a hatch for the hard drive and one for the memory and often the NIC is in the same area as the memory.

 

[Markg22b]

I confused the issue mentioning the bars. I'm attaching a screen shot to make the point clearer. It's not a function of 2 bandwidths (which I do have but have the 5.8 turned off), it's (to me) an incorrect OS representation of the machine's OEM WiFi adapter's status. Per the shot, the OEM is off (at least until I boot next) per the 'x' and 'not connected'. So if the adapter is 'off' how can it have any bars. There should be no bars lit up. That was my point.

The T61's radio switch is off.

I checked on removing the nic. It's sort of a PITA. The palm rest comes, the keyboard off and then you can disconnect the wires and pull loose the card. I may very well end up doing this. If I do, what do you do with the 2 now loose wires? Can't they short something out left bare?

Mark

 

[trents]

I would just put some electrical tape over the contacts and let them hang loose in the compartment. Those are just the antenna wires. They circle the perimeter of the display and pass through one of the display hinges somehow. They carry no juice but could short something out I suppose. If you decide to do this my advice is to draw an outline of the laptop on a piece of paper and as you take out each screw, tape it to the corresponding area on the drawing so you can keep track of where they go. They are no all the same length, diameter and thread pitch. Also pay close attention to how the ribbon cables for the keyboard and the touch pad attach in their clips as you remove them. Some have a slide latch and some have hinged latch that just pivots up. The other thing to be aware of is that the keyboard is often held in place by one or more screws that need to be accessed through the backside of the motherboard and sometimes they are hard to see. Take pictures of different stages if you need to. As I think you know, there are usually Youtube "how to" videos available.

 

[Markg22b]

Thanks for the tip on screws. I recently replaced the fan/heat sink, drive and memory and my plan at the time for screws didn't work so well. I put put each group of screws that I removed in a separate coffee cup and took pictures as I went. I ended up with 1 extra screw and no screw that goes through the back that holds down the keyboard. I'll use your plan.

The BIOS offered no help for the card.

When the machine finished booting after leaving the BIOS apparently the OS learned and didn't offer an adapter choice. WiFi 2 was present with no dropdown for WiFi 1 and WiFi 1, although 'running properly', was still not connected. So maybe there's hope yet that I can avoid climbing inside the machine.

Thanks for all the help.

Mark

 

[trents]

The first laptop I dismantled and put back together was a real learning experience. I had four screws left over. But it ran fine. I run small general practitioner computer service business out of my home in my retirement years. I do it but I nonetheless don't like taking laptops apart and putting them back together. Many times, the machines people bring to me for repair are old enough that the labor cost it would take to fix them will go along way toward buying another one so I often get out of it by pointing this out to them. And it's true.

 

[Markg22b]

FYI, WiFi 2 is not dropping signal and maintains status on boot