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running Tualatin on CuMine MB w/o Powerleap

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doer said:


That looks pretty underpowered...

my 1st PSU w/ cel1,2@1,6Ghz (1,825V) w/ PL-adapter was 250W, 2-3 y old w/ ratings:

+5 20A
+12 10A
-5 0,5A
-12 0,5A
+3.3 20A
+5SB 1,0A
+5 & +3,3 combined 125W

it dropped another hdd of my raid-1 arrays off: didn't work good enough (but I had no problem when running 1,2Ghz w/ that PSU)

my 2nd PSU w/ same combo works fine and is 300W w/ ratings:

+5 30A
+12 15A
-5 0,3A
-12 0,8A
+3,3 28A
+5SB 2A
+5 & +3,3 combined 220W
+3.3, +5V +12V = 279W

1st I didn't believe when Ol'man said that one may need a powerfull PSU to run those overclocked tualatins. But when I continued to have problems w/ my oc:ed system, I decided to change my PSU to a more powerfull version. And I think it solved my raid-array dropping problem.
Click to expand...

A wise ol' man once told me that..........

:D
 
Is there somebody who has succesfully made the mod in a VIA chipset (the 694x for exemple...)? what are the problems with this? is a BIOS problem?
 
Irondog said:
Is there somebody who has succesfully made the mod in a VIA chipset (the 694x for exemple...)? what are the problems with this? is a BIOS problem?
Click to expand...

No!
 
Irondog said:
Is there somebody who has succesfully made the mod in a VIA chipset (the 694x for exemple...)? what are the problems with this? is a BIOS problem?
Click to expand...

so far I knew two person try to use 694x,but all unsucess,one is me,another is ruiner from here,I try all the way,but still disappointed,I even change the Vref voltage to 0.99v 0.88v 1.12v,the standard for tualatin is 2/3Vtt=0.83v,all made no use,I guess the problem is from the bios.my mobo is ms-6309 v1.0,can boot but can't enter windows.
 
ok it is fine now...

after connecting ak4 to ak26 i colud get in win98
also making "8" in "In-Order Queue Dept"
I also connect VID4 to Vss using that silver conductive paint
and the system seem better (same voltages shown but
less temperature)

now i'll try to overclock but it seem harder tha i thought...
Temperature were better when it was uncovered..
so i guess that the main role of the IHS is to protect
the small core , not spreading the heat ....
 
Here is my idea of how to disable a pin in a socket after you pop the cap of the ZIF off. I actually suceeded yesterday with this method to increase my vcore to 1.825v on my NEW ST6. PLEASE YOU PEOPLE DO NOT RIP OUT PINS ON YOUR CPU'S FOR OBVIOUS REASONS ABOVE WITH BELISAU(sp.)
 
Just a head up for those of you lurkers following this post wishes to do this mod on your MSI sloket rev 2.3...DON"T DO IT ! In the past week, I've somehow managed to "De-stablized" two brand new retail c1.2a while attempting to get it working with my BH6 MB. Both CPUs were tested and running solid on my Powerleap PL-ip3/T ( Non-overclocked ) adapter for a full days prior to this mod. The CPU then get mod with VID wire-trick set at 1.5V (Unable to boot by the way) on the MSI sloket. Afterward remove all mod and re-installed the cpu back to the Powerleap with a fresh coat of ASII. Windows XP crashes ~within 30minutes of normal use. The second CPU corupted my HD so badly that I had to put the original (OEM) cpu back to the powerleap, format my drive and re-install XP all over again. What a pain that was!!

Anyone interested in buying a couple of "almost" working C1.2A ??
 
wirehead said:
Just a head up for those of you lurkers following this post wishes to do this mod on your MSI sloket rev 2.3...DON"T DO IT ! In the past week, I've somehow managed to "De-stablized" two brand new retail c1.2a while attempting to get it working with my BH6 MB. Both CPUs were tested and running solid on my Powerleap PL-ip3/T ( Non-overclocked ) adapter for a full days prior to this mod. The CPU then get mod with VID wire-trick set at 1.5V (Unable to boot by the way) on the MSI sloket. Afterward remove all mod and re-installed the cpu back to the Powerleap with a fresh coat of ASII. Windows XP crashes ~within 30minutes of normal use. The second CPU corupted my HD so badly that I had to put the original (OEM) cpu back to the powerleap, format my drive and re-install XP all over again. What a pain that was!!

Anyone interested in buying a couple of "almost" working C1.2A ??
Click to expand...

Did you rip some pins out and not set the vcore to 1.5? WIth the vid pin 25 connected the vcore wil be 2.1v. Maybe you cooked yer cel-t's.
 
more money shots

154ghzmbm.jpg

154ghzcpubmk.jpg

154ghzcpummbmk.jpg

interesting things to note:
  • the [email protected] chip im using is stable at 127MHz FSB, but not as stable either lower or higher (unless i go to default 1.2GHz).
  • the tualatins have a default voltage of 1.475V. this chip im using is not stable past 1.95V - craps out at 2.0V.
  • Temp rises 8C more with a switch from 1.75V to 1.8V.
  • Its stable at 1.75V (current voltage setting). I may try for lower voltages later.
  • only the 3 pins were needed to be disabled to make this work on a slocket with voltage selector. The same method doesnt work on a generic FCPGA adaptor, though. That needs further modding with the connection of AK4 and AK26, which i may try later.

thanks again, guys! i thought the P3 [email protected] is the best i can do for my BE6-II (and that P3 has a 100MHz FSB too). This just takes it to a whole new level!
 
Re: more money shots

chosenfool said:
154ghzmbm.jpg

154ghzcpubmk.jpg

154ghzcpummbmk.jpg

interesting things to note:
  • the [email protected] chip im using is stable at 127MHz FSB, but not as stable either lower or higher (unless i go to default 1.2GHz).
  • the tualatins have a default voltage of 1.475V. this chip im using is not stable past 1.95V - craps out at 2.0V.
  • Temp rises 8C more with a switch from 1.75V to 1.8V.
  • Its stable at 1.75V (current voltage setting). I may try for lower voltages later.
  • only the 3 pins were needed to be disabled to make this work on a slocket with voltage selector. The same method doesnt work on a generic FCPGA adaptor, though. That needs further modding with the connection of AK4 and AK26, which i may try later.

thanks again, guys! i thought the P3 [email protected] is the best i can do for my BE6-II (and that P3 has a 100MHz FSB too). This just takes it to a whole new level!
Click to expand...

As has been mentioned you may experience better stability if you connect ak4 to ak26
 
abit bf6 and cel 1.2a

Yes!!!!!! Thank-you chosenfool and all the guys who helped make this
happen. My abit bf6 and abit sloket!!! are now up and running did what chosenfool said and its on now at 1200 and running prime95. Will bump it up later and see what I can get out of it
when it first posted it said 800 p3 when I set it to 100mhz it
said 176 p3 but sandra cpu bench was 1204mhz. Voltage shows o.k. in bios at 1.48 set to 1.5 on sloket!!! man got to love it!!!!!
well I will let you guys know how it goes I just took sloket cover of and isolated an3 ak4 aj3 with small peice of black tape and held my breath when I put the power to it. Be careful if you take
this cover off mine was quite brittle. well its been used in alot of my prodjects and I think it has paid for its self lol
Later and thanks again!!!
G Hunter
 
Just a quick happy note - I've been following this and other threads - was going to try catcha22's method when I find my magnifying eyeglasses so I could see these little connections, but when I saw what chosen did, I thought I's try it.

Have a BE6-2 and Abit slotket 3, so started taking off the cover, not easy like and Asus, cracked part of it, then saw how littly the damn connections are, and decided to just drill them. All in all it was quick and dirty and sloppy job and figured if it didn't work it could be because of that.
Used a 1/16" drill, smaller would have been better, but couldn't find that either.

Took a celatin 1.0A out of my Tusi-m where it was running at 133 @1.66v with the vid mod.
Took my celeron 2/1.0G Costa Rica running at 133, 1.85v out of my BE6-2.
One thing I noticed when I took off the retail heatsink, was it showed the cpu slug wasn't flat - worn spots on the edges. Used generic paste, quick and sloppy, stuck the critter in my BE6-2.
Soft menu showed 2.3v but had trouble believing that - slotket jumpers were set to default.
Set the voltage to 1.8 and FSB to 100, to see if it was going to work - damned if it didn't.
Seems to be stable at 127FSB and either 1.66 or 1.9v, won't go higher.
Going to remove slug and do a nice job with better heatsink but will have to wait awhile.
Also going to try this on a generic coppermine slotket, but I'm going to put the drill bit in a visegrip for better control in removint the slotket pin connections.

I love all you guys that are willing to sacrifice your stuff so us semi-chickens can get excited trying it!
Thanks for the thrills.
 
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