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Super's WC project, community help and motivation solicited!

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Well, now I'm looking for a chipset waterblock which would fit under two SLI'ed cards. So far I came up with these very expensive ones :(
http://www.mips-computer.de/

Anybody from Deutschland willing to help me out by finding a good deal on these?
I don't see any other chipset WB being made available. My stupid chipset is hitting 54C and my rig reboots when gaming. I have to open the windows to game... :rolleyes:
 
O.K Folks, almost all the parts are in, except for the D-Tek WW Adapter hardware.
I looked for a N00b's guide on setting things up from scratch, but couldn't find one on these forums. Looks like itstime for me to write one for the N00b's :)
So, I'd like to begin the 48 hr leak test. Before that, I have a few basic Q's :-


  • Does anybody have pics of how to jump a 24 pin PSU before I connect my pump? I heard that the PSU may be damaged by doing this. I could try it with my cheap *** Ultra-X connect PSU first:)
  • I have access to DI water, how much Hydrex should I add to it?
  • To get the Tygon tubing to fit on the barbs, do I need to heat it over a flame, or would hot water sufice?
  • Do I need to put teflon tape over the radiator barbs before I screw them in?
  • What is the best config? CPU>GPU1>GPU2 or GPU1>CPU>GPU2 or GPU1>GPU2>CPU ?

Anything else I missed out on the first leak testing prep work?
 
Super Nade said:
  • Does anybody have pics of how to jump a 24 pin PSU before I connect my pump? I heard that the PSU may be damaged by doing this. I could try it with my cheap *** Ultra-X connect PSU first:)
  • I have access to DI water, how much Hydrex should I add to it?
  • To get the Tygon tubing to fit on the barbs, do I need to heat it over a flame, or would hot water sufice?
  • Do I need to put teflon tape over the radiator barbs before I screw them in?
  • What is the best config? CPU>GPU1>GPU2 or GPU1>CPU>GPU2 or GPU1>GPU2>CPU ?

Anything else I missed out on the first leak testing prep work?

jumping psu is just green wire to any black

if you're all copper (no aluminum) i'd use about 10%

if you cant push it over the barbs use hot water to soften it

you put the tape over the threads (only wrap it once) and then screw it in. i like silicone sealent much better for the job.

the config doesn't matter all that much, but on paper i'd run cpu>gpu>gpu

(packing up tubing now)
 
crimedog said:
jumping psu is just green wire to any black

if you're all copper (no aluminum) i'd use about 10%

if you cant push it over the barbs use hot water to soften it

you put the tape over the threads (only wrap it once) and then screw it in. i like silicone sealent much better for the job.

the config doesn't matter all that much, but on paper i'd run cpu>gpu>gpu

(packing up tubing now)
:thup:

Got that down. This hydrex I have is probably about 2 years old. Would it still be o.k, or would it have degraded in some way? I'll follow your suggestion and look for silicone sealent instead. Any particular type I should be looking at?
 
Hey guys, I'm extremely paranoid about leaks. In the even of a leak, is there some kind of protection I can avail of? I've never used dielectric grease before. If I plan to use it, how much do I need, how do I apply it and where? Pics please :)
 
Super Nade said:
james and other folks, thanks a lot for your suggestions.

Now that I think about it, I would get a dremel set if its on sale. :)
As for the heatercore, the only reason I don't want to go that route is because I don't have access to a shop to weld on barbs and fabricate a nice looking shroud. Ifthat is going to cost extra, might as well buy a commercial one. Don't get me wrong, I'm all for creativity,but I'm really preassed for time. I need to set-up everything in about a couple of days, as I need my system for school work.

Regarding the reservoir, I was under the impression that one needs a decent sized bath to hold the water. Would the volume of water in the tubes be sufficient to cool a fully overclocked DC+SLI system?

The reason I wanted a seperate PSU for my WC setup is because in the future, I intend to move to a peltier based system.

D94, if you notice, I don't have as much room as you do to play with. All these wires jiggling around in my case are a bit of a barrier. Some part of your tubing has no water in it, why is that?

And Stratus_ss, no problems mate, feel free to ask any questions you wish to. :)


BTW* Who is jbweld?

Peltier based system ftw!
 
Super Nade said:
Hey guys, I'm extremely paranoid about leaks. In the even of a leak, is there some kind of protection I can avail of? I've never used dielectric grease before. If I plan to use it, how much do I need, how do I apply it and where? Pics please :)

Dont be paranoid. Just double cheak everything use Clamps + Silicon(where needed) then do a leak test.
 
About the reservoir: the volume of water doesn't matter because plastic doesn't transfer heat well so the reservoir does not help with the cooling (ok so it does but its not noticeable). All it will do is take longer to reach the equilibrium temperature (but it won't lower that temp). Personally I don't trust reservoirs, I see them as a source for a potential leak (especially those bayres reservoirs). I think a T-Line is the better way to go for a water cooling loop.

As far as being paranoid: just remember to leak test (and check all your parts, feel around the barbs if you are that paranoid) and then remember to use clamps and you will be fine
 
Thanks guys, now I have everythhing in front of me, so lets get the Super Newb Q's out of the way. Please remember that all these silly Q's will be compiled into a guide for future Newb reference :D

I'm sitting at my computer, waiting for you guys to respond and I'll proceed accordingly. :)

  • The Pump has two ports, which is input and which is output? (see pic in first post)
  • I have a D-Tek WW CPU Block. It has three barbs, so how exactly do I route the tubing? (See pic in first post) .Should I go according to this pic?

    Sorry about the 2 mile x 4 mile pic :D

    Top T is for the T-line/fillport. GPU outputs are combined and are not in series, because I'm not sure if the tubing will prove to be overly restrictive if I went GPU1 O/p-->GPU #2 i/p.


    myloop2eh.jpg
 
myloop2eh18tb.jpg


Tline should go before the pump in because it will be a paint in the *** to prime it otherwise.
You can try routing like this: Going from each of the WW outs to each of the GPU blocks.
 
So, I should swap the Pump i/p and o/p ports in my pic . Is taht position of the T-line correct? Now, in this config, the pump is pulling water out of the T-line, right?

I don't have any Y's only T's, would this be overly restrictive in my config? In most pics I've seen, the pump is at the bottom of the case, so I'll do the same.

Edit* more unorganized Q's
To cut tubing, do I need to heat the exacto knife over a flame? Is a perfect cut a pre-requisite? Will my metal hose clamps cut through the Masterkleer tubing?
 
Last edited:
You can probably cut the tubing with a just a pair of scissors. So to answer you question all you need to do is just cut it.

Also for which way the pump works water goes in the bottom out the top.

T line goes before the pump if at all possible otherwise its a pain to deal with
 
Super Nade said:
So, I should swap the Pump i/p and o/p ports in my pic . Is taht position of the T-line correct? Now, in this config, the pump is pulling water out of the T-line, right?

I don't have any Y's only T's, would this be overly restrictive in my config? In most pics I've seen, the pump is at the bottom of the case, so I'll do the same.

Edit* more unorganized Q's
To cut tubing, do I need to heat the exacto knife over a flame? Is a perfect cut a pre-requisite? Will my metal hose clamps cut through the Masterkleer tubing?

Hey,

Knew that like me, you were jumping into WC, but I hadn't seen this thread until now. Its funny to see how you and I have gone through many of the same questions so I think that your idea of a guide would be pretty good.

Here is one that I have found to be useful, or at least a good starting point. You are already beyond much of this, though.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=54331

By the way...my understanding is that use of "Y" fittings would be better than the "T" due to flow restrictions, so if possible, go that route.

For cutting tubing I am using a PVC pipe cutter as it makes a nice clean cut, but is more heavy duty than scissors. A clean cut is best, if only because the fit is better at the base of the barbs when the cut is straight across.
 
You need at least one Y and if possible you need two.
To cut the tubing just use anything sharp, the cut doesn't need to 100% straight as it doesn't matter to anything but estetics and even then you need to be looking for an uneven cut to see it.
 
Good info Reefa. I have a bit more reading to do before I can finish this up. Since its my first try, it may not look very pretty :)
 
Flip-Mode said:
To cut the tubing just use anything sharp, the cut doesn't need to 100% straight as it doesn't matter to anything but estetics and even then you need to be looking for an uneven cut to see it.

I think that I have a built in bias for straight cuts...I use a square to draw a cutting line on a board and cut on either a miter box or a table saw. I guess those habits seem to have come across when it comes to cutting the tubing. :)
 
Reefa_Madness said:
I think that I have a built in bias for straight cuts...I use a square to draw a cutting line on a board and cut on either a miter box or a table saw. I guess those habits seem to have come across when it comes to cutting the tubing. :)
Well if you want perfection I'm not going to stop you.
 
Flip-Mode said:
Well if you want perfection I'm not going to stop you.

My Mama has always told me to pay attention to the detail.

It is not perfection I'm after...just as good a job as I can do. Most of the time that is a long ways from being perfect. :)
 
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