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The new achillies S1284 VERSION 2 (yes its new)

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Good read, Spawne32:thup:

So unless they can get even better performance out of the updated production models, the lapped TRUE is still the best choice for overclocking quads on air.

What I want to get my hands on is that all copper TRUE they showed recently. :drool:
 
Good read, Spawne32:thup:

So unless they can get even better performance out of the updated production models, the lapped TRUE is still the best choice for overclocking quads on air.

What I want to get my hands on is that all copper TRUE they showed recently. :drool:
That is the thing though, with that design, it will NEVER touch a TRUE on top of a quad. It just can't move that much heat that fast. The HDT design will hurt once the watts get cranked up.
 
thideras is right. Mine (S1283) even suffered with an overvolted E3110. I guess it couldn't handle the heat density of the CPU, but with multiple remounts it was yielding 65C or more with 2 high speed Yate Loons in push/pull. A TRUE120 (not lapped) got my 58C and lapped got me 53C. To me, having used both, it's quite obvious which is better.
 
thideras is right. Mine (S1283) even suffered with an overvolted E3110. I guess it couldn't handle the heat density of the CPU, but with multiple remounts it was yielding 65C or more with 2 high speed Yate Loons in push/pull. A TRUE120 (not lapped) got my 58C and lapped got me 53C. To me, having used both, it's quite obvious which is better.

Well the S1283 is small, it only has 3 heatpipes and small fin area. It seems that it performs great under a certain point, but after you go past a certain thermal load it starts to fall behind because of the size, and obviously the TRUE is much larger. Butttt, that being said, without modifications done to the TRUE, like lapping and the pressure mod, the TRUE has problems with contact to the CPU, and varys from each unit. The TRUE i bought last year performed fantastic unmodified, this one one i got it last week from Petra's was disasterous as you can tell.
 
Well the S1283 is small, it only has 3 heatpipes and small fin area. It seems that it performs great under a certain point, but after you go past a certain thermal load it starts to fall behind because of the size, and obviously the TRUE is much larger. Butttt, that being said, without modifications done to the TRUE, like lapping and the pressure mod, the TRUE has problems with contact to the CPU, and varys from each unit. The TRUE i bought last year performed fantastic unmodified, this one one i got it last week from Petra's was disasterous as you can tell.
It must really vary per unit. I have two, 1 on my main and 1 on my server...never had heat issues at all with either. Neither are lapped and neither have a pressure mod.
 
Yep, that's my experience with Thermalright's QC on their heatsink bases too, Spawne32. Their engineering is second to none, but their base QC is second to just about everyone. :drool:
 
I'm still satisfied with the TRUE over the s1284, it is a very well written article though.

I'm curious as to the pressure mod that they mentioned for the TRUE, what exactly do they do to it? I have 5-8C differences between cores and I really don't want to be bothered with lapping it (it also doesn't appear to need it that badly). But it could be a pressure issue... I need special paper.
 
There are quite a few. You can use pennies, washers or even duct tape (my fav). I prefer the duct tape one since it prevents the heatsink from turning, increases pressure and is highly customizable (thickness). All you have to do it put duct tape on the part where the bracket sits.
 
Isnt the Xigmatek considerably cheaper than the TRUE? Even if its only $10 cheaper, that makes the Xigmatek the better bang for your buck.

I didnt read through the whole article, but was the Achilles lapped? If it wasnt, then its hardly fair to put it up against a TRUE that has been lapped and using pressure mod.

Also, how did it do against the TRUE with no pressure mod?
 
the Xigmatek is a better bang for the buck, but as far as the maximum air cooling performance you can get, the TRUE still has everyone beat.

Theres a retail TRUE in those tests with no pressure mod and no lapping, sorry i couldnt test all the number of combination. The pressure mod in that review was done with a nylon washer that you can pick up in any local hardware store.
 
You don't want to lap any of the HDT coolers. I've seen pictures of people who didn't really lap them very much busting heapipes open and ruining the cooler.
 
You don't want to lap any of the HDT coolers. I've seen pictures of people who didn't really lap them very much busting heapipes open and ruining the cooler.

yep, definitely not, HDT is a completely different realm of cooler here, conventional methods just dont apply.
 
You don't want to lap any of the HDT coolers. I've seen pictures of people who didn't really lap them very much busting heapipes open and ruining the cooler.

You can lap them, you just have to be very careful and not use low grit paper from the start.
 
Sure, you can, but it's probably not a smart decision since you don't know how thick the heatpipe wall is. Even a small fracture means that heatpipe is useless.
 
heatpipe walls are extremely thin, a thick copper wall on the heatpipe defeats the purpose of it being there, it transfers heat through whats inside, not the copper primarily, so the thickker the copper wall the less effective it is, its merely in place just to keep the fluid from dissipating.
 
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