Thoughts on my enclosure?? (56k - go make hot coco)

[Sleepy_Steve]

Aye, i was planing on adding an extra inlet or outlet hole. So that dosent bother me at all.
Hmm, I wonder if a friend of mine has some 3/4 lying arround... But I'm rather low on my stock of copper. I think i only bought 2ft to begin with.

Know if standard fittings are threaded to match the res??

OK, so... you were talking only re-working the res to pump bit of pipe... with a set up that would save me an elbow and maybe an extra hole if i remember how things lined up... yours uses 3/4'' copper, thats cool too.

Thanks for the imput, i follow what you were trying to tell me at first -- I think i get it now, and it strikes me as a more refined idea than my origional relocation plan.
Its gona be tried out as well.

 

[HungLo]

Hey nice e-box Steve! I was wondering how big it got (from other post)
Like already said... 90 deg. at the pump inlet is bad mojo.
Air bubbles can come from a negative leak (is that a real phrase?) as in it won't drip water... but it'll suck air into the loop.
Like I said I love the box... but I think the water makes redundant trips the length of your box... i.e. the heatercore barbs are at the opposite end of the water entering the enclosure. I know it's a 10' head pump.... but if you eat most of that head with excess tubing.....

I was thinking of external too... 1xBonneville, 1xD5, 1xDDC. Currently I'm going to just cram it all.

 

[Sleepy_Steve]

First off, the pump is not sucking air from the inlet.
Secondly, as is... there is not more than 4ft of tubing and only a 1ft rise within the box itself.
Any "solution" that I've seen seems to need more 90 elbows that the current setup. Quiet Ice needs two 90's to my one 90, although you may be able to solder up some 3/4 inch 45 elbows, run thicker tubing between them...
One of my main problems is the limited run you can do from the pump inlet to the wall oppisate the inlet... Its only 2 maybe 3 inches at best.
I speak of its problems, but please realise i like quiet ice's idea enough to be trying it when i get home.

Personaly, I cant see the reason to mix dis-similar pumps in the same loop.

 

[HungLo]

Sorry Steve... I didn't mean the pump was sucking air from the 90..... just that air "can" enter from a hose-clamp barb area... that's all.
90's aren't Bad per se. just "Bad" @ the pump inlet.. could cause cavitation?
Well... as to the 2 pumps deal..... according to Sytemcooling's article on the modded DDC... in a restrictive loop..performance of a modded DDC is virtually the same as the D5. Besides the D5 has a dial to play with... everyone poopoos the idea... but ..I have the pumps... and I want to do it....

what about moving the pump?

 

[Sleepy_Steve]

Ahh, i thought you meant it was sucking in air through the threaded part of the inlet. Oops lol.
Second oops is that i think its impossible to move the pump... It went on real easy... But when i try and get the thing off, well i begin to see the plastic start to break.

Please explain the effects of cavitation @ the inlet. My inner engenier is intrigued.

 

[HungLo]

As far as I understand Mag driven pumps is that they create a low pressure area at the inlet to feed the pump. Since they don't "make" thier own suction like a directly driven pump shaft would. Thus any restriction at the inlet is hurting the pump's ability to be fed. It can create cavitation... which is air being thrashed by the inpellor. In large apps like ships, cavitation can destroy propellors very quickly.

I hope that makes sense....

(edit) I don't understand why it's hard to change the orientation or why it's cracking the Mag3.... is it just bolted to the MDF?

Just a hoot... but check my 1st modded submersible Powerhead pump! heheheh ahhh memories!

 

[Sleepy_Steve]

As far as I understand Mag driven pumps is that they create a low pressure area at the inlet to feed the pump. Since they don't "make" thier own suction like a directly driven pump shaft would. Thus any restriction at the inlet is hurting the pump's ability to be fed. It can create cavitation... which is air being thrashed by the inpellor. In large apps like ships, cavitation can destroy propellors very quickly.

I hope that makes sense....

(edit) I don't understand why it's hard to change the orientation or why it's cracking the Mag3.... is it just bolted to the MDF?

Just a hoot... but check my 1st modded submersible Powerhead pump! heheheh ahhh memories!

Ahh nice pic.

Yeah, i was familiar with the issues of cavitation in large applications... Cargo ships, submarines, etc. But i didnt know how it affects things on a smaller scale.

Its not cracking the mag 3, but i can already see the white line on the base indicating where it will crack after a few more uses. The pump itself will not break if i remove it from the base, but the tab that holds it to the base might.

Unfortunatly, I only screwed in the base instead of bolting it. The reasoning is somewhat embarasing... I didnt want things sticking through the base and scratching up the work area i was using.

 

[QuietIce]

I know it's a 10' head pump.... but if you eat most of that head with excess tubing.....

It would take a LOT of tubing to do that.

Just a hoot... but check my 1st modded submersible Powerhead pump! heheheh ahhh memories!

Is that an old Xaser II? I've got a heater core mounted to the top of one for an old socket A rig ...

 

[Sleepy_Steve]

Just for kicks... a pic of the encolsure with tubing installed. It was filled with some water and a tad of anti freeze for a while while i was out of town.
I think i recal someone requesting a pic of the tubing between the rads.

 

[QuietIce]

I didn't request the pics but it IS good to see someone else using copper Ts instead of restricting their loop with the plastic ones ...

 

[Sleepy_Steve]

The certainly are a lot better flow wise than any of the barbed plastic fittings ive seen.
I think you'd like the lower T which has a 5in run down to another copper 90 because copper elbows seem to be the best way to make a sharp turn.


I must admit though, that it is a pain to get all the hose clamps in that tight a space when putting the tubing on. But when i re-do all the tubing, I wont take any clamp related chances.
Im also not too proud of the tubing bending like it has between the T's and Rads... But its the best i could do and its not leaking, so i guess its a non issue.

 

[Sleepy_Steve]

Hmm, been working more on the tower latley and not the enclosure... Because i need a 90deg bend at the inlet of the pump... Would it be better to use a piece of CPVC made for elecrical conduit.

Here's the link. It will work if i can find a female - female adapter... The threadings match the pump though.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=116025-223-LN20DA-CTN&lpage=none

I ask because I was wondering if a slow tight bend (conduit pice) would be less detrimental to preformance. Given that its not a hard 90 and the ID in almost never reduced like as in a normal barb.

 

[QuietIce]

The bigger the radius of the bend the better.


Merry Christmas!!!

 

[Sleepy_Steve]

Thanks man, I'll see if i can get on onto my pump.

Merry Christmas!!!

 

[Moto7451]

See if you can find 45° bends. They usually sell them next to the 90s. Two 45°s have been shown to hurt flow less than one 90°.

 

[Sleepy_Steve]

Random Bump...

Wondering about making the WC loop happen again now that I have left the dorms and have room for it at school. I'm also considering abandoning the enclosure, because of size issues. I'm thinking that I have enough room in my full tower for whatever I need to do. I'd plan on re-using my old water blocks, at least one of the heater cores, and the micro-res.

I'm wondering if I should abandon the enclosure or not, and if I do... do I want to pick up a different (more compact 12v) pump as well?

 

[voigts]

Random Bump...

Wondering about making the WC loop happen again now that I have left the dorms and have room for it at school. I'm also considering abandoning the enclosure, because of size issues. I'm thinking that I have enough room in my full tower for whatever I need to do. I'd plan on re-using my old water blocks, at least one of the heater cores, and the micro-res.

I'm wondering if I should abandon the enclosure or not, and if I do... do I want to pick up a different (more compact 12v) pump as well?

Sounds to me like you have already kind of decided to ditch the enclosure and go with the smaller pump. I personally don't care for external setups a whole lot as it is just easier to have everything in one case when it comes to moving it outside to blow out the dust. That is the main reason I built my wood case to allow me to internally mount my PA120.3 and yet fit the case within my desk (a full tower is just too tall). Its awfully hard to beat a DDC with Petras top for the size/silence/performance it offers.

 

[QuietIce]

Hey, hey! Good to see you back looking at WC again! I liked your first set-up a LOT - a very good DIY system with great cooling.


I think the pump you have is fine. More compact? I guess that depends on your specific case and layout. The MCP655 isn't that much smaller and the MCP355 is only a little smaller than the MCP655 once you add a modded top and barbs. Unless you're really strapped for room, which I can't imagine in a full tower, I wouldn't bother.

If you DO want to spend money on something get a ThermoChill rad. Personally, I like HCs and still use them for almost everything but ThermoChills have much better performance if you're space limited (I'm not ). I doubt a TC 120.2 is as good as 2x HCs but I bet it's ~1.5 of them if you have good fans - and I know you do ...

 

[Sleepy_Steve]

Well, the second HC in the top would look tacky... So I think a store bought rad would make sense up there if i need one.
But a HC would do fine down in the front where my 120mm intake fans don't line up perfectly anyway.

As far as space in the full tower. I think it can fit... but space may get tight with 2 PSU's, a bunch of HDDs, 2 opticals, the HC and a double or tripple rad.

 

[QuietIce]

I didn't mean to add a second off-the-shelf - I meant replace the HC.

But if you don't want to do that I certainly understand - of four WC rigs only one has a store rad, and that's because it's a single ...