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Water Chiller Questions

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Just Some Dude

Registered
Joined
Jun 6, 2006
Location
Milwaukee, WI
I currently have these items being shipped
Danfoss NF11FX
Mach Style 6 1/4" x 6 3/4" Condenser
Dynaflow self fluxing brazing rods
3/8" Schrader (Pack 5)
1 x Armaflex 520 Adhesive
1 x 3/4" Armaflex Sheet
1x multi swaging tool​

I was hoping someone could give me some advice regarding what plate HX would work best. I currently have a P805 for this project but I'm holding that back until conroe ready MB are available as that is what I plan to use for long term, also graphics cooling. Although I've seen conroe estimates at ~65w, the claims I've seen for 300w DX10 cards seem to be accurate which is a trend toward greater cooling capacity requirements that I'd like to prepare for.

Also, does anyone have a link for where to get a proper plate HX ? I'm having difficulty finding a variety available for comparison. I just lost an auction for a SWEP. :( I also need advice toward a ballpark fig. as to how many line filters I should get being a noob and all.

What are the pros/cons toward a txv vs. a cap tube ?

Would there be any benefit to using soft copper instead of plastic tubing for the water loop?

Ayone have any advice toward quick connect fittings?

I think I'd like to go with an iwaki pump, but I am having trouble locating the ones recommended on this forum. I read the thread regarding the group purchase done here so I know that ship has sailed, but was hoping there might be an alternative option available.

I also really like the look of the Lian Li v2100 but I'm a little concerned about the MB orientation. Although I do like the fact that the cooling blocks are on top of the VGA I have concerns for other cooling considerations.

Thank you.

Aquired system components:
PD805
2x 1 gig Super Talent LL ddr2800
Tagan TurboCool 900w psu
MCE 05 Ru2
 
Just Some Dude said:
I currently have these items being shipped
Danfoss NF11FX
Mach Style 6 1/4" x 6 3/4" Condenser
Dynaflow self fluxing brazing rods
3/8" Schrader (Pack 5)
1 x Armaflex 520 Adhesive
1 x 3/4" Armaflex Sheet
1x multi swaging tool​

I was hoping someone could give me some advice regarding what plate HX would work best. I currently have a P805 for this project but I'm holding that back until conroe ready MB are available as that is what I plan to use for long term, also graphics cooling. Although I've seen conroe estimates at ~65w, the claims I've seen for 300w DX10 cards seem to be accurate which is a trend toward greater cooling capacity requirements that I'd like to prepare for.

Also, does anyone have a link for where to get a proper plate HX ? I'm having difficulty finding a variety available for comparison. I just lost an auction for a SWEP. :( I also need advice toward a ballpark fig. as to how many line filters I should get being a noob and all.

What are the pros/cons toward a txv vs. a cap tube ?

Would there be any benefit to using soft copper instead of plastic tubing for the water loop?

Ayone have any advice toward quick connect fittings?

I think I'd like to go with an iwaki pump, but I am having trouble locating the ones recommended on this forum. I read the thread regarding the group purchase done here so I know that ship has sailed, but was hoping there might be an alternative option available.

I also really like the look of the Lian Li v2100 but I'm a little concerned about the MB orientation. Although I do like the fact that the cooling blocks are on top of the VGA I have concerns for other cooling considerations.

Thank you.

Aquired system components:
PD805
2x 1 gig Super Talent LL ddr2800
Tagan TurboCool 900w psu
MCE 05 Ru2

plate HX's:
http://search.ebay.com/plate-heat-exchanger_W0QQfrppZ50QQfsopZ1QQmaxrecordsreturnedZ300

More plates is better because of more surface area but does add loss of flow due to friction forces. The more plates the bigger they are and the more they cost. 16 plates is a nice size.

With cap tube you are limited to one fixed restriction. No more no less. The longer the more restrictive it is the shorter the less restrictive it is. The more restrictive it is the better your split will be the lower the boiling temperatures will be. However the less capacity your system will have because with a greater restriction you get less flow, less refrigerant. So with a cap tube you can size it for one restriction and live with it. Also with a more restrictive metering device (given it still has the capacity for your heat load) it will take longer to pull down. A TXV adjusts restriction baised on the suction line temperature and pressure. So when you need more flow it opens up and when you need less it closes. Its better because you get the best of both worlds, fast pulldown and low tempereatures. But they are not as easy and simple as cap lines. Often cap line is recomended to new people because with lack of knowledge and skill its likly you will get better results with the cap line since less chances you will set it up wrong, break it, size it wrong, fail to tune it correctly. There are many other valves besides TXV's. Another usefull type is one that lets you adjust restriction on the fly, even if the system is running. This makes for a very nice valve for someone new as it makes tunning easy since you dont have to chop your system everytime to change an orifice or cap line length.

Not really. Piping everything in soft copper will be alot of hassle, will add alot of weight, and not do anything for you. Infact probbably hurt your temperatures as copper makes a better conductor then insulator. Tygon tubbing is cheaper, easier to work with, helps insulate and is lighter.

iwaki MD20 RLZ and the RD20 and RD30 pumps are hard to come by. Try the panworld 40PX, 13.5ft of head, its pretty good. My friend got this one for his chiller, he likes it.
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...D&Product_Code=PW-40PX&Category_Code=Panworld

That case might be a little small for a chiller. Its hard to fint one in. You are better off making one in an external case and keep it seperate from you computer.

Make sure to get the blocks with non plastic tops for your gpu, take the seal out and braze them shut.

Get the Swiftech MCW6002 for cpu.
 
Last edited:
Excellent post, Pf. That answered a lot of my looming questions as well, and excellent find on the pump.

Why do you suggest brazing the tops of the GPU blocks? I haven't done that, so far without incident.
 
Thank you for the informative response.

Now that you mention it it does seem to be a better idea to keep the cooling components seperate from the case.

I see the HX @ Ebay have 1" or 1/2" outlets. Would it be better to go with the 1" and reduce size as needed or go with the 1/2 inch?

You mentioned there were other valves available for adjusting on the fly, what would these be called? I'd like to look into those.

Thanks for your time.
 
1" better then reduce is correct.
Valves on the fly? You mean metering devices?

That would be a CPEV fi you want to do it yourself, or a TEV for automatic but adjusting to evap out temperature.
 
What Nol said, cpev.

Low temperatures effect materials in not such a good way as far as this application goes. I have seen platics tops on blocks crack, rubber o-ring seals shrink/frezze/crack and leak, pump housings crack, impellers in pumps break. Materials change volume, density, surface tension and tensile strength with temperature variations which leads to some bad results, like broken components and leaks.
 
Just wanted to post pics of some gear I received today. Threw up a countertop for a makeshift gathering/work area. Gettin' stoked! :)




project18wo.jpg
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project27bn.jpg
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project37uz.jpg
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I'm currious why the need for the big pump?
Panworld makes a sweet little 6.5 head preasure unit :D
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...D&Product_Code=PW-10PX&Category_Code=Panworld
btw Pf. Panworld is a great pump :thup:
dont give me that pumping slush non-sence thats what cutting the water with alchol is for :p and frozen coolant and plate HX=not so good :p

I like TEV/TXV
when searching look for thermal expantion or just expansion valve
http://cgi.ebay.com/Expansion-Valve...itemZ3857660760QQcategoryZ64007QQcmdZViewItem
1/4 ton seems to be the right size for these projects to me :D

a 10plate HX is overkill for these systems, 40K btu/hr abouts. to find a half length/square one might take some extra work but I would just get the cheapest one you can find. :thup:

Im looking at doing a very similar build, I cant remember what the HP rating is for the NF11FX (is it 1/4HP?) Ive been thinking about the 9 :D
 
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