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Water Cooling Advise

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I was able to fit a compression fitting and a 45 with a compression fitting on the side ports of my MCRES, with the Bitspower o-rings. It seals up just fine. The ports on the res are recessed a little bit, enough to be felt with my finger, but the o-rings seal up fine.

As far as the pump replacement tops, I really like the Bitspower one at Sidewinders, which didn't seem to be in Skinnee's review. I could be wrong and just didn't read thoroughly enough, but the last time I read that review, I was pretty pressed for time. One of these days I am going to order it just so that I can use my compression fittings on the pump as well as the rad and res. I have Bitspower True Silver fittings for my blocks, which will help keep the nasties out of my loop. If I notice a problem, I will probably buy a silver strip from JT and make a kill coil or two.
 
deadlysyn said:
I was able to fit a compression fitting and a 45 with a compression fitting on the side ports of my MCRES, with the Bitspower o-rings. It seals up just fine. The ports on the res are recessed a little bit, enough to be felt with my finger, but the o-rings seal up fine.

As far as the pump replacement tops, I really like the Bitspower one at Sidewinders, which didn't seem to be in Skinnee's review. I could be wrong and just didn't read thoroughly enough, but the last time I read that review, I was pretty pressed for time. One of these days I am going to order it just so that I can use my compression fittings on the pump as well as the rad and res. I have Bitspower True Silver fittings for my blocks, which will help keep the nasties out of my loop. If I notice a problem, I will probably buy a silver strip from JT and make a kill coil or two.
Click to expand...

The BP 45's are skinny enuff at the knurled end to slip inside the recess? But a regular barb is fatter. using the fatter o-rings on the plastic barbs fix the problem.

Good to know for future ref the BP rotaries fit.
 
Conumdrum said:
The BP 45's are skinny enuff at the knurled end to slip inside the recess? But a regular barb is fatter. using the fatter o-rings on the plastic barbs fix the problem.

Good to know for future ref the BP rotaries fit.
Click to expand...

They did on the side ports, which are nearly flat. There's maybe 1/64" recess on those (just a wild guess, but its not enough to break the seal), it's the top and bottom ones I would be worried about. They are recessed quite a ways, enough that a stop fitting sits inside. I would think a BP rotary may fit, but can't be too sure, and I haven't tried it yet. My parts are still sitting in boxes next to my rig, but I did check the seal when I tried to clean the previous owners dye out of the res. I don't see much reason they wouldn't fit. Doesn't Swiftech make a barb that is supposed to fit in those recesses? When I have a chance, I will post up a pic of the res with the compression and rotary on it. Just be warned, I wasn't able to get all the dye out, so the res still has a bit of a pink tint to it.:rain:
 
AWESOME!!

All of you are great!! TrOmendous information FROM ALL!! LOL.. I am sitting with an ich on the bottom of my pants awaiting parts arrival.. All though I still have to order additional parts to complete my loop build, and that wont take place until next week (Grrr!)....
 
Ok,

I am ready to order my next purchase. I want to know what to run as far as liquids go. I am going to want to have a UV blue color to it, so I want to mix things just right... (Antimicrobial silver strip, Dtech dye,fesser corrosion blocker, fesser view dye, Pentocin coolant, Primochill liquid Utopia) There are a lot to choose from but I want to make the correct choice. It's like filling 10w40 regular oil to a new Mercedes Benz that uses Mobile 1 full synthetic. It does'nt work. It will breakdown and sludge the engine and your done....

Thanks

\\joescastle
 
Dye's are bad juju. They tend to break down in the loop, and clog your blocks and rad. For UV, I would recommend looking for some UV reactive tubing, and one of the Bitspower LED stop fittings for your res. As long as you aren't running mixed metals, you are much better off with straight distilled, some PT-Nuke, or a Silver Kill Coil, or True Silver Fittings.
 
joescastle said:
It will breakdown and sludge the engine and your done....
Click to expand...

as you have already said, thats why we don't use dye's anymore.

buy coloured tubing over dye's and the like.

distilled water and a biocide like pt nuke or a silver strip are best. it's the royal purple of the car world (i assume royal purple oil is still the best?)
 
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WOOT!!

I just recieved pump, XT and tubing. I will not use dye in the system so I already added the silver strip coil to my shopping cart at JabTech. My MB is an Asus P5E and the NB is an X38. I believe that the MCW-NBMAX will fit it just fine, but I am not sure. Also, the site I provided seems to be the only one that has it in stock. Has anyone purchased from there before?
 
@Spawn
The purple nurple that goes waaaay back lol....
Valvoline full synthetic user here...little cheaper same quality..
@joe
Swiftech ,s site gives all the dimentions for the block measure and make sure..
i have no clue bout the site you linked....
 
joescastle said:
WOOT!!

I just recieved pump, XT and tubing. I will not use dye in the system so I already added the silver strip coil to my shopping cart at JabTech. My MB is an Asus P5E and the NB is an X38. I believe that the MCW-NBMAX will fit it just fine, but I am not sure. Also, the site I provided seems to be the only one that has it in stock. Has anyone purchased from there before?
Click to expand...

Reseller Ratings, the online shoppers best friend.

Edit: I also wanted to mention, that you don't really need to put the NB under water. Most of us just make sure there is plenty of air going over the sink, and you should be fine.
 
Thanks for the info bouch & dead.

I have the following on the way and will be here Thursday 4th. RX 480, Fat Boys, Anti-Kink, MCRES and Silver Strip.... I feel a build coming on this weekend...

Is there anything else I need before I start the build? Also, How do I set up the loop? Meaning - res-pump-cpu-res?

Thanks again

\\joescastle
 
joescastle said:
Thanks Gros...

If I add a VGA block to my BFG 8800gtx in what order would I do the loop and also what VGA block should I use? I was thinking the Epsilon but it seems to be out of stock...
Click to expand...

In that case, the typical loop goes res>pump>rad>CPU>GPU>res. As for which block, the MCW60 seems to perform well, and has a very nice price tag. I think Jab-Tech has it for around $35.

Edit: http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCW60-R-VGA-cooler-Rev-2-pr-4271.html $39.95. The Epsilon doesn't look like it will fit that 8800GTX, since it is made for the GTX2xx. I would highly recommend the MCW60.
 
Last edited:
In that case, the typical loop goes res>pump>rad>CPU>GPU>res. As for which block, the MCW60 seems to perform well, and has a very nice price tag. I think Jab-Tech has it for around $35.
Click to expand...
Generally the most effective loop layout is whatever is simplest. The temperature of the water doesn't change too much throughout the loop as long as it's moving fast. You'll see the same temps (and less headaches) from the simplest routing than some tangled mass that tries to get water to one place or another "first".
 
Don't mean to barge into the OP's thread with my newbie question, but I don't quite understand why the loop order is res-pump-rad-cpu-res and not res-pump-cpu-rad-res? Doesn't the water have to take the heat from the cpu to the radiator first?
 
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