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Water cooling with a ground loop (no radiator)!

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The size of the pump would be more dependant on the total resistance of the tubing than the depth the tubing is buried. As the coolant system is closed, the water going down will offset the weight of the water coming up.
 
I wanted to do this a couple of months back but my parents didnt like the idea of drilling a hole through my wall or window. Coil of copper should work, you just may need quite a bit of it. Well good luck! let us know how it works out.
 
oops.....

sorry to kick in like this, but for geothermal cooling, and if you want to keep it cheap, well...... i've been thinking about it... and searching for info.

Keep in mind that there are still a few variables, like the need to calculate flowrate/pump dimensions and such, but anyways.
Also, i'm using metrics here, please convert to feet/inches etc yourself. :)

The idea of going geo is good, as it will allow you to have a waterloop with a PERM temp of something like 11 to 13 C° if you do it right... and the best way is doing it vertical.

forget reservoirs, cannisters, coils etc and esspecially diggin an huge olympic swimming pool sized pit/sleeve :) Actually, depending on yr housing, you could do it from within your basement/garage iso backyard. Also, you do not need metal/copper pipes.. PVC will do. Actually the PVC type they use for electricity or water could be just what you need.

heres what you need (1 set):
  • 1 PVC tube/pipe 5 to 6 meters long , 50 millimeter across (about 2 inches) "wall" thickness 1.5 to 2 mm (1/12 th inch)
  • 1 PVC tube/pipe 4.5 to 5.5 m long , 32 mm across (about 1.2 inches) "wall" thickness 1.5 to 2 mm (1/12 th inch)
  • 1 T-piece 50mm
  • 1 conversion piece 32-50mm (adjusters or whatever its called)
  • 1 "stop" 50mm
  • 1 "elbow" 32mm

I suggest to use 4 to 6 (or even more) sets of above.
note: different sizes/lenghts of PVC can be used, depending on what is the cheapest in your area. But these dimensions kinda "match" on different levels, even capilarity :)

On top of that you need some extra lenght pipes/tubes of these dimentions to connect the sets together (1, 2, 3 meters maybe depending on the number of sets you gonna use). some pvc glue. some garden hose. And some barbs/connectors as you see fit, as this material list is not supercomplete.

Also... you need a steel or other strong/sturdy metal pipe about 4-6 meters long (shorter is possible, but we want some control over it). This pipe should be welded shut/blocked on one end and with a barb/jacket to attach a garden hose to it. Cuz this pipe will be your "drill". (see- i said no digging :) )

However, you still might need a spade/shovel to dig :( a 50-60 cm square "pit" about 60cm (2 feet) deep; depending on where you frostline is. 60 cm should be safe unless you live in siberia.
If you plan to do this in yr garden, you also need to dig sleeves 60 cm deep towards the house.
If you do this in your basement, you might not need the "pit", but anyway...

Lets get started, shall we?

  • Glue the 50 mm "stops" to ONE end of the 50mm tubes/pipes and the 50mm T-pieces to the other end.
    Watch out! do this correctly. Do NOT make a T out of your pipe, but make it so that you can still "look thru" the length of your pipe.
    Wrong: ========I
    Correct: ======O==
    (see what i mean?)
  • Glue the 32mm elbows to one end of the 32mm pipes
  • slide on the 32-to-50mm onto the 32mm pipes from the bottom on and glue when they hit the elbows
    Watch out! do this correctly. Do it with the 50mm down, as these 32mm will be lowered into and glued to the 50mm
    Wrong: -----=[-7
    Correct: -----]=-7
    (see what i mean?)
  • Ok, start with digging the "pit" 60 x 60 x 60. (do not forget sleeves towards the house). Once that done, attach the steel "drill" to the garden hose, apply water and hold the pipe upright in one of the corners of the pit. Watch it "dig" itself in :) This takes about 5 to 15 minutes per meter depending on soil conditions.
    Once it has basically dug itself in completely, pull it out (cut the water on time).
  • Lower the 50mm pipe with the closed/sealed end down into the drilled hole.
    note: You'll probably will have to weight it down with someting.
  • repeat "drilling" and lowering 5mm in the other corners of the pit till all 50mm pipes are in place
  • use the extra 50mm pipes to connect the pipes at the T's together (1-2 , 3-4)
  • lower the 32mm pipes into the 50mm and glue the "adjusters" to the T's
  • attach (garden)hose to the elbow of the first "inner" 32mm pipe
  • attach (garden)hose to the elbow of the last "inner" 32mm pipe
  • use the extra 32mm pipes to connect the other 32mm pipes at the elbows together (2-3)

Ok, now... fill slowly with water (gardenhose is handy) and flush it through for a while, if you are shure you have no leaks throw all the soil back into the pit. The (garden)hose in the sleeves towards your house/connection point, and fill up the sleeves.
Now, if you got more then enough spare pipes, you could use them iso the hose, or you could try to run the hose through those spare pipes for added strenght.


The only thing left is to determine how to connect this all up, either directly to your PC/WC system (which means no more LAN parties and lotsa waterwetter to add) or to a heat exchanger reservoir is up to you. I've got a few ideas, but thats another story. :)

Also, this might need a serious pump, though i have no idea (yet) on how serious, as the "weight" of the water is quite balanced. The flowrate could play a role depending on the setup from here on. If you would use this as a intermediate exchange reservoir, thus not directly fed into your PC/WC... you do not need to worry about flow... just about "volume", as you want to pump this around as slowly as possible.


One thing i know for sure is: the water will have approx 11 C° yearround. And the more sets you use the longer you can keep it at this temperature. As each "set" contains approx 3 gallons of water (+10 liters). So, if you use 4 sets as i suggest you've got about 12 gallons of water to heat up... and THAT could take a while :)


Anyway, this is basically the short version... and if someone has posted something like it before i am very sorry. Comments welcome.

note i take no responsability if you "drill" into some secret nuke shelter. However, if you struck oil... lemme know, or better yet... make me shareholder :)
 
That sounds quite complicated, but very interested to see the results.

I found a water chilling unit that looks something like a normal cpu HS with a fan attached excpet it has thermal electric pelt attached to a 11/4 inch prong. Is professed to be able to lower 10 gallons by 10c, so I am hopeful that it will lower one quart much lower. Really kick *** thing about it is it comes with its own temp controller so you can adjust to keep water temps at ambient and avoid the condensation prob. Even though I anticipate that I will wrap the tubing and lower further as I already have water proofed a new board for a total custom rig I am building. Best thing about this unit is that it only costs $135 with the controller, and it will fit very nicely in a csutom res I am building. The only fans that will be goign ocne I am done are the psu, and the chiller fan. Not totally silent, but I hoping it will be pretty close.
 
this is done to insulate water tubing in some high efficientcy housing .
the use of 100% copper tubing with no tank was most efficient and if at all possible get 1 very long 1inch wide copper tubing and make it snake back and forth .
note where yu live and what your lands properties are like is very important . .

for a pump i would use a iwaki R20 or higher of thier high head pumps . IKMD20rlzt-100 is a good pump for this
but at 180$ it might be out of range
 
and since you won't be changing the water very often... u might want to think about treating it somehow...

but can you connect your water supply for your house maybe to a little tank, and have a switch so that you might be able to change the water completely once in a while... kind of like a fishtank...

This sounds complicated... and I don't know, if you have the time, go for it, sounds like fun... and expensive
 
You might as well have a well drilled hook up an external pump and loop it in through the house and back out into the well.

I install sprinlers systems in my youth, and it would not be that hard to run pvc to the home from the well. even though you would have to watch the water pressure, as those pumps can do some dew when it comes to gallons per sec. Would be cool to see how low you could go, but would it be worth it . . . IMO no.

I now where you can pick up a water chiller cheap if you want, and save yourself the trouble.
 
Depending on what type of piping you will be using inside the computer case you might want to protect against condensation.. especially if the air inside will be substancially hotter than the water during the winter months. Sounds like quite a task you have going for you :p good luck with it.
 
Also just remember that you don't need a high head pump. In fact I'd get one that puts as little amount of heat into the water as possible. A pump with a 1' head will push water to 1000' in a closed loop system, which is what you going to have.
 
Talking with a well informed AC man, he's not informative on this. But, his first question on my design was, what you Going to do with all that moisture, at the cooling coils an unless you figure in a dehumidifier you will have a wet cool in your home. How do we get away from that clammy cool?
61Intercessor
 
Talking with a well informed AC man, he's not informative on this. But, his first question on my design was, what you Going to do with all that moisture, at the cooling coils an unless you figure in a dehumidifier you will have a wet cool in your home. How do we get away from that clammy cool?
61Intercessor

This thread is over 13 years old. Please create your own thread here .
 
This type of cooling I've really investigated because it seems plausible and I considered doing it, not underneath my home but in a cooling field dug out by backhoe.

Unfortunately basing the cooling experiments I have already invested money into some successful some not, I never got the guts to attempt to explain to my wife why I am digging up the back yard with a backhoe!

She already was considering my experimentation was loony bin qualified, and I cannot blame her, but she has zero desire when it comes to computer cooling or overclocking, it's push the button, it starts, and she is perfectly happy.

What I did learn was various ground depths carried certain static cooling levels depending on where you live and I am on a higher ground level where I live so the best I could possibly hope for was at a 20' depth.

Even my enthusiasm went out the window facing digging that type of depth because I was originally thinking maybe 5' ~ 10' and laying out a copper tubing field of pipe in the bottom of the ditch.

I would suggest to the OP before digging any holes try your idea underneath the house first and see what happens with a 100' coil of copper tubing submerged in a tub of water.

Because 9 times out of 10 that's going to be colder than the buried copper tubing would be anyway.
 
This type of cooling I've really investigated because it seems plausible and I considered doing it, not underneath my home but in a cooling field dug out by backhoe.

Unfortunately basing the cooling experiments I have already invested money into some successful some not, I never got the guts to attempt to explain to my wife why I am digging up the back yard with a backhoe!

She already was considering my experimentation was loony bin qualified, and I cannot blame her, but she has zero desire when it comes to computer cooling or overclocking, it's push the button, it starts, and she is perfectly happy.

What I did learn was various ground depths carried certain static cooling levels depending on where you live and I am on a higher ground level where I live so the best I could possibly hope for was at a 20' depth.

Even my enthusiasm went out the window facing digging that type of depth because I was originally thinking maybe 5' ~ 10' and laying out a copper tubing field of pipe in the bottom of the ditch.

I would suggest to the OP before digging any holes try your idea underneath the house first and see what happens with a 100' coil of copper tubing submerged in a tub of water.

Because 9 times out of 10 that's going to be colder than the buried copper tubing would be anyway.

Where do you live in SC? I'm in Sumter. I water bored a 35' deep 3" diameter hole and dropped a home made heat exchanger in it. At full load on my CPU and GPUs the water temp never goes above 27.5C (81.5F). Here's the link to my build thread. http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/759850-Journey-to-geothermal?highlight=geothermal
 
Darlington is still coastal plain so your soil should be a sand clay mix. You may be able to bore a 40' hole with about $50 worth of PVC. Much better option than digging up the whole yard for a few grand.
 
Darlington is still coastal plain so your soil should be a sand clay mix. You may be able to bore a 40' hole with about $50 worth of PVC. Much better option than digging up the whole yard for a few grand.

Seeing as how Darlington County has some serious laws above and beyond the neighboring counties, what you have actually done is drill a well down to the water table.

As innocent as it may seem to you I'm sure that you got the required permit from DHEC to do it because there are South Carolina requirements covering this type of thing.

You don't mention getting a permit, so I am not going to ask you if you got a permit to drill a personal well down to the water table, because I am sure that you did.

The permit puts you on DHECs radar so they can periodically come and take water samples from your well and see if you're adding any contaminates to the water table.

But since I'm sure you got a permit, you already know this, but maybe others reading this don't, and they should first check to see what local laws are in place, before they do it.

But no I will not be drilling my own well, Thank You.

Edit: You may actually want to research what could be happening from the copper being dropped down and touching the water table, you've already seen the reaction taking place inside the tubing, what's happening outside the copper tubing that can be leaching back into the water table.

Would you drink what you found in your graphics card water block?

Maybe your surrounding neighbors that are dependent on well water running shallow wells wouldn't either.

Think about it.
 
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Just researched your post. Seems like the perfect time to build my chiller box. Already have all the components. Off to Lowes to buy a few bags of grout.
 
Gents... 13 year old thread here... Create another thread for your project and discussion. :)
 
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