Watercooled build proposal for Xigmatek Elysium - design phase help needed!

[thebski]

I'll start with the system. I don't own it yet, but will be buying within the next 2-3 weeks.

Theme: Red and Black

CPU: Intel Core i7-2600K
Motherboard: Asus Maximus IV Extreme-Z Z68
Memory: 16 GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1866
Boot Drives: 2 x 120 GB Vertex 3 Max IOPS in Raid 0
Power Supply: Seasonic X-1250 Gold
Case: Xigmatek Elysium - Black
Media Drives: 2 x Asus DVD Burners, Asus Blu Ray Reader

I already own and will carry over:

Graphics Cards: 2 x EVGA GTX 570 SC's in SLI
Hard Drive: 1 TB Seagate 7200.12
Monitors: 3 x Samsung 23" @ 5760x1080
Sound Card: Sound Blaster X-Fi Fatality Champion Series
Keyboard: Logitech G19
Mouse: Logitech G9x
Gamepad: Logitech G13
Headphones: Logitech G930

Water Cooling System:

Pump: Swiftech MCP 35X
Resevoir: Swiftech MCP35X Rev 2
CPU Block: EK Supreme HF - Acetal
Radiator 1: Hardware Labs Black Ice GTX420 420mm Radiator
Radiator 2:

Option 1: Hardware Labs Black Ice GTX280 280mm Radiator - If it will fit. Does anyone know if it will fit? The Seasonic X-1250 is 7.46" long according to Neweg specs.

Option 2: XSPC RX240

Tubing: Tygon R-3400 1/2" ID 3/4" OD Black
Biocide: Silver Kill Coil
Liquid: Distilled Water
Fans: I need some help here. I figure I'll just go with Yate Loon fans, but I want them with red leds. I have red 230 mm fans that I'm going to take out of my HAF X and put in the Xigmatek where the 230mm fans are. Remember I'm going for a red on black look here. I figure where 120's go I'll go D12SM-12 red led, and for the 140s I'll go D14SM-12 red leds. Is this a good choice? Should I go for the highs rather than mediums? I'm planning on having a fan controller, which I'll discuss next.
Fan Controller: Lamptron Touch - This fan controller has 6 channels and supports up to 30w per channel. If I'm running push or pull only I'll have 3 140s and either 2 more 140s or 2 120s along with 3 120s for the case and a 230. In total:

140x5, 120x3, 230x1 or 140x3, 120x5, 230x1

Either way I'll be powering 9 fans, and 14 if I go push/pull, which I'm strongly considering. Will this fan controller handle that amount of fans, or will I need two?

Lastly, I want opinions on configuration of parts. Right now it's a cpu only loop, but it will I will add the gpu's when I upgrade to the GTX 600 series. I've came up with 2 options. Here they are:





Would I be able to fit a 280mm for radiator 2 in either confiuration? Which one do you guys think would be more feasible/effective?

Fittings: In the images you see a purple connector. This is a Koolance QDC VL3N joint. You'll also see in front of the case a purple connector on spare hose. I'll use this hose with another Koolance QDC on it to drain/flush the loop. I can just disconnect on the res inlet and connect the spare hose to drain in a bucket while I keep water flushing through the system.

You'll also notice 2 orange connectors on the CPU block. These represent 2 more Koolance QDC joints so I can split the system and also change any cpu/mobo without disassemling the system.

All other fittings will be Bitspower Ultimate G1/4 Compression Fitting 1/2" ID 3/4" OD.

That's my plan guys. I'll take any advice or suggestions. This is my first watercooling build, so anything that I should be aware of that I haven't outlined here such as angled fittings or any other little tricks I'd appreciate it.

I need suggestions on the fans, configuration, and whether I should push/pull on the fan configuration or not. Also, will one Lamptron Touch be enough? Where should I buy the Late Yoons? I've read that some places are better than others. Frozencpu is the only place I've found that has both 120 and 140 mm medium red fans.

Thanks so much for any input guys. That was long, but I think I'm done lol.

Edit: Is the EK Supreme HF still the best block on the market? I did the research to build this system back in April, so I don't know what's changed since then. Thanks guys.

 

[thebski]

Another quesiton: what do you guys use for sleeved cables? Do you sleeve your calbes yourselves or buy aftermarket cables? I really want to make this thing look good and clean, so a bunch of red, black and yellow wires aren't so attractive.

 

[ssjwizard]

That is a whole lot of radiator for just a CPU. Even the hottest chip doesnt need a 360 esp not a 360 and a 280(92% of a 360).

You can probably get a 280 on the bottom, it could fit up front but It looks like alot more work.

I sleeve my own cables its pretty easy. Molex connectors are a bit tricky but once you figure out how far you have to push the staple in when you pull them out it goes pretty quick.

 

[thebski]

Well I'm building it with the intent of cooling the cpu and 2 GTX 680's. I'm just not going to spend the money on water blocks for my GTX 570's, so for the first 6 months or so it will be cpu only.. I need more VRAM at such a large resolution so as soon as the 600 series comes out I'm just going to buy some EVGA Hydro Coppers and plug them into the loop. I was just going to build the whole loop all at once, that way when I buy the gpu's I can get some fittings and pluge them right in.

 

[thebski]

Also, the radiator in the top is definitely going to be a 420 (140x3) because I know that will fit. I'll have to see if a 140x2 will fit anywhere when I get the case.

Is the XSPC RX360 rev 2 better than the HWLabs GTX420? If that were the case then I'd just use the 360.

 

[ssjwizard]

Ic, well the only other advise I have for ya then at this intersection is that you might consider a lower FPI radiator unless your planning to run 1800+ RPM fans. The black ice rads are freaking killer with high speed fans, they struggle with weaker fans.

 

[thebski]

That brings up another question. How exactly do fan controllers work? If a fan is rated at 1500 rpm what is the rpm range with a fan controller? Would I be able to run it past 1500 rpm?

Also, have you seen red led high speed Yate Loons? I've searched for D12SH-12 and D14SH-12 in red led and I can't find them. I'd run them at high speeds during gaming as long as I could turn them down during normal use. Would a push/pull configuration help alleviate the fpi issue?

 

[ssjwizard]

Fan controllers manage the voltage applied to the fan. The typical range of most controllers is about 6-12v. The rpm range will vary by fan model Id guess 1500rpm fans to end up around 800RPM turned all the way down.

 

[thebski]

So their rated speed is their speed at 12V, meaning a 1500 rpm fan would max out at that speed?

 

[ssjwizard]

To go any faster it would require more volts. Its generally not a good idea to overvolt motors for long periods of time though.

Aslo see:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...oduct_info&cPath=36_316_848&products_id=27147
and
http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...ge=product_info&cPath=36_69&products_id=27144

 

[thebski]

I've read that performancepcs.com is a bad place to buy Yate Loons because they use a third party version with cheaper internal parts. That would make sense why they're so cheap. Any truth that there are better places to buy Yate Loons than others?

 

[ssjwizard]

I have no idea TBH, but that sounds pretty fishy. I doubt thats the case, its possible that they are a different version licensed through yate but I honestly doubt it.

 

[thebski]

Well here is where I got the idea. Have a look and see what you think.

Yate Loon D12SH-12 Round-up Review

Original Thread

I suppose it doesn't really matter. There wouldn't be a comparison between the high speed and medium speed fans so if that's the only place I can get red highs then that's probably where I'll buy.

 

[evilrad]

I put together a system for my friend using that case a few months ago. He has a HWL BI SR1 140x3 rad at the top and a XSPC RX 120x2 at the bottom.

The case is meant for rads with 15mm fan spacing. The SR1 doesn't not use the standard spacing, so I had to do a little mod work to get it to fit.

I could not use the standard screw holes in the case with the XSPC rad at the bottom due to the fact that the power supply (corsair tx850) would not fix with the rad in the standard position. I had to shift the rad forward a little in order to accommodate the power supply's cables. Once again, a little modding was needed.

If I had to do it over again, I'd probably put the 140x3 rad at the bottom and the 120x2 at the top.

 

[thebski]

Thank you evil. That is the kind of information that I know will save me tons of headaches down the road!

You're thinking put the PSU at the top? Also, the Seasonic X-1250 is going to be longer than the Corsair 850 I'm sure, so I'd probably have even more trouble fitting it. Will I even be able to get a dual fan radiator with a PSU 7.46" long in either the top or the bottom?

I can always use the set up like I've shown in figure 2 up there. I've found build logs online in which guys have done that. I'll have to come up with a way to mount the radiator upright in the front and also come up with a way to secure the hard drive bay in the bottom of the case. I like that configuration because all wires going to my PSU and to my hard drives will be consolodated and use 1 grommet. This will help the case look cleaner. I also don't like that configuration as much when he comes to routing tubing. If I do the configuration in figure 1 plugging in the graphics cards will be really easy as the loop will run right by them anyways, and I just think that way of routing tubing flows a bit better.

 

[thebski]

In doing some research today I've come across a few minor questions.

What is another reservoir I could use with the MCP35X? It sounds like Swiftech's resevoir for it is junk. People say that it cracks around the inlets, and it's all of them, not just a few of them. I think that's what the Rev 2b is suppose to fix, but I can't find anyone online that has them in stock, so what is another res I could use with this pump?

Also, I've been looking into cable braiding some. I really want this to be a very clean, professional finish when I'm done, so I'd like all my cables to be sleeved in black, or black/red. When you sleeve cables yourself do you do them all including the power supply, or do you buy sleeved power supply cables like the 24 pin for sale here? Also, how do I know how much of each sleeve size I'll need? For someone that has done it, what proportion of cables are 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", etc.?

I was looking at this sleeving kit.

Also, what will I need to be able to run several fans off of one channel? I can find 2-1 splitters, but no more. Do I just need to combine a bunch of 2-1 splitters, or can I find like a 6-1 splitter? I'd like to run the 6 fans for radiator 1 on a channel of the fan controller, the 4 fans for radiator 2 on another channel, and all other case fans on a third channel. Since the 140mm high speed yate loons are rated at 6 watts and 6 of them on one channel would be 36 watts I've decided I'm going to go with the Lamptron FC9 because it can power up to 50w per channel. Now I just need someone with experience to tell me what the best way to condense up to 6 fans down to one channel (connector).

 

[ssjwizard]

i used a couple of mod smart kits when I was sleeving my wifes system. If you like the single braid look you need ALOT(40-50') of 1/8". If your grouping wires then the mod smart kit does a decent job.

 

[evilrad]

Thank you evil. That is the kind of information that I know will save me tons of headaches down the road!

You're thinking put the PSU at the top? Also, the Seasonic X-1250 is going to be longer than the Corsair 850 I'm sure, so I'd probably have even more trouble fitting it. Will I even be able to get a dual fan radiator with a PSU 7.46" long in either the top or the bottom?

I can always use the set up like I've shown in figure 2 up there. I've found build logs online in which guys have done that. I'll have to come up with a way to mount the radiator upright in the front and also come up with a way to secure the hard drive bay in the bottom of the case. I like that configuration because all wires going to my PSU and to my hard drives will be consolodated and use 1 grommet. This will help the case look cleaner. I also don't like that configuration as much when he comes to routing tubing. If I do the configuration in figure 1 plugging in the graphics cards will be really easy as the loop will run right by them anyways, and I just think that way of routing tubing flows a bit better.

I just looked up the length of the corsair and it is 6.3" long. So putting the power supply up top with a 120x2 rad probably isn't going to work for you with that longer power supply. It may be possible on the bottom though.

What I would do is get your PC hardware first (if you're dead set on everything) and take some measurements with the power supply in the case. That way you know how much room you have to play with and that will narrow down your rad choices.

 

[ssjwizard]

What I would do is get your PC hardware first (if you're dead set on everything) and take some measurements with the power supply in the case. That way you know how much room you have to play with and that will narrow down your rad choices.

^this!

You want to see how your motherboard fits also. For example my wifes CM 690 build I could only use slim radiators because anything deeper would interfere with her motherboard.

I second setting up the rig on stock cooling and come up with a plan. This way you have a system to use while your planning.

 

[thebski]

That was honestly my plan. I think I'm going to buy the case and everything first and see what radiators will fit. I'm seriously leaning towards configuring with the stand up radiator in the front. I think there's a good chance I could get a 280 in there, and that way the hard drive wires could be together with the PSU wires to keep things cleaner. That still leaves me enough expansion slots in the front for a fan crontoller, 3 media drives, and a Sound Blaster front panel. I have a feeling the Seasonic X-1250 is going to be huge, so I'll just have to wait and see.

Also, I'm not giving up my current computer until the new one is fully complete. I can't afford to be without one for both work and play reasons haha.