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Watercooled GPU temps are still going 100 Degrees!!!

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I can only imagine the build up of deposits in that radiator that ends up cooling less over time.



Yea well my radiator is 13 or was it 15 years old.. Its from dangerden, and im using a maze 3 water block and a 1048 eheim pump (all of these are 13-15 year old blocks/pumps/rads) all I have been doing is modding the waterblocks mounts for each new generation I upgrade too, and I don't have any issues with heat.. My C2D E-8400 wolfdale was the last cpu to be cooled by this( minus my 4790) and I was able to overclock that cpu to 4400mhz 24/7 for 7 years... I think that proves my radiator is fine lol.

Back on topic I garuntee if this OP removes that pump from in front of his radiator and adds a second 120 or 140mm fan, that his HOT water will be cooled down by a big margin.
 
Back on topic I garuntee if this OP removes that pump from in front of his radiator and adds a second 120 or 140mm fan, that his HOT water will be cooled down by a big margin.

Push and pull won't give you huge margins. If you're looking for some degrees to be shed, sure. What I also should add is, the FPI of the rad plays a role as well. Sure push and pull would be better for a high FPI rad than it would for a lower one.
 
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Push and pull won't give you huge margins. If you're looking for some degrees to be shed, sure. What I also should add is, the FPI of the rad plays a role as well. Sure push and pull would be better for a high FPI rad than it would for a lower one.



Ima have to disagree with you on that. Duel fans in push and pull is always better then 1
 
Ima have to disagree with you on that. Duel fans in push and pull is always better then 1
GTX said that it won't give you "huge margins". You replied with its always better which was not his point. It IS generally better but by how much, it depends...(see reply below).

Depends on the radiator thickness, radiator fpi, and what fans you're using.
If it is a thin low FPI rad with a high speed fan, chances are it won't help much if at all. But again, in most cases, that is correct.
 
As ofr using distilled water, that's up to you honestly I have been using tap water in my black ice radiator for 13-15 years now and I haven't had any issues. If it were my car though obviously id use distilled water but these radiators I don't bother

I can see maybe trying tap water if you have more than enough rad space and aren't having a cooling issue, the tap water won't get hot enough to form steam and leave trace mineral deposit as fast. I mean you might be one of the lucky ones that your municipality does a great job treating water and you only have some bacteria and chlorine in your tap water, but I have hard water (see mineral rich). And minerals like to deposit themselves whenever they can, ordinarily distilled water can be had for so little that it's a small investment for piece of mind.
 
Hey guys thanks for all the Info, unfortunately i cant remove the res/pump away from the rad since the... wait a sec i think i can since the hole between the res and rad is G1/4... what the heck??? ill try it later then!

One more thing, so i got the rest of the parts and I also got angled fittings! so here is a picture of my flow design, please let me know if i have to do any adjustments. thank you!!!

flow.png
 
I can see maybe trying tap water if you have more than enough rad space and aren't having a cooling issue, the tap water won't get hot enough to form steam and leave trace mineral deposit as fast. I mean you might be one of the lucky ones that your municipality does a great job treating water and you only have some bacteria and chlorine in your tap water, but I have hard water (see mineral rich). And minerals like to deposit themselves whenever they can, ordinarily distilled water can be had for so little that it's a small investment for piece of mind.


No lol I have very hard water, I get calcium deposits on the shower.. And my other Hobby is fish tanks, I have 9 tanks in my house my biggest is a 100g corner tank with discus.. I also keep fish that need low ph and others that need high PH.. Our water here is very high in PH somewhere between 7.8-8.2 most of the east coast is like that.. So trust me lol I know how bad the water is here. As for bacteria.. I don't think there is bacteria in the water with the Chloramine they use lol.. We have Chloramines in the water which kills bacteria and how I know that is because testing the water with my kits for my fish tanks, shows there is about .5 to 1.0PPM of ammonia in the water, but it isn't actually real ammonia from decaying matter its Chloramine which is a form of Chlorine and Ammonia.

I just don't care to go to the store to buy distilled water, I know its cheap I work on cars as another hobby, ive changed countless radiators and done work to the cooling systems on many cars and I always use 100% Antifreeze with Distilled water because its cheaper then the premade 50/50.

But im telling you that I haven't had any issues as far as deposites in my radiator... Also if you are worried about deposites you do realize that having dissimilar metals (aluminum or brass radiator and a copper waterblock with brass fittings for example) in a cooling loop also causes the metals to break down quicker and can clog up a cooling system, it can break down the metals and also it even creates a small electrical charge in the system which breaks down the metals even more. If you don't believe me get a multimeter out and measure the cooling system in your car .. Unless your car is brand new I garuntee you will have a small electrical charge in the coolant.. Why do you think they put antifreeze in a car ?

It isn't just to keep you engine block from blowing up in the winter, they have additives in it like sodium and so forth which keeps the metal from breaking down.. If you just use pure distilled water the aluminum radiator and heads and what not in the system breaks down and causes mineral like deposites in the system.. Have you ever opened a cooling reservoir on a older car and seen deposits on the bottom of it ? That's because the coolant wasn't changed enough.. Antifreeze breaks down over time and its protection properties no longer work and so the cooling system breaks down.

If you guys want to be completetly anal about the water cooling system on a computer then I suggest you use a coolant for automobiles like water wetter or something similar.

They also sell coolant flushes, I could easily spend $15 on one and flush my cooling system in my computer if I was that worried about mineral deposits, also give it a good blow with my air compressor.


As for the OP, what kind of pump will you be using for 3 radiators and 2 waterblocks ? I hope its a strong pump
 
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As for the OP, what kind of pump will you be using for 3 radiators and 2 waterblocks ? I hope its a strong pump

According to my research, the MCR140-X comes with a MCP30X pump same with what Swiftech H220X AIO has.

Here are the specs i got from the manufacturer:

Pump Speed range 1200 ~ 3000 RPM
Pump nominal voltage 12 VDC
Pump nominal power 6W
Pump Bearing type Ceramic shaft, PTFE bearing
Pump Power connector SATA
Pump RPM & PWM connector Mini 4-pin
Pump MTBF 60,000 hours
 
No lol I have very hard water, I get calcium deposits on the shower.. And my other Hobby is fish tanks, I have 9 tanks in my house my biggest is a 100g corner tank with discus.. I also keep fish that need low ph and others that need high PH.. Our water here is very high in PH somewhere between 7.8-8.2 most of the east coast is like that.. So trust me lol I know how bad the water is here. As for bacteria.. I don't think there is bacteria in the water with the Chloramine they use lol.. We have Chloramines in the water which kills bacteria and how I know that is because testing the water with my kits for my fish tanks, shows there is about .5 to 1.0PPM of ammonia in the water, but it isn't actually real ammonia from decaying matter its Chloramine which is a form of Chlorine and Ammonia.

I just don't care to go to the store to buy distilled water, I know its cheap I work on cars as another hobby, ive changed countless radiators and done work to the cooling systems on many cars and I always use 100% Antifreeze with Distilled water because its cheaper then the premade 50/50.

But im telling you that I haven't had any issues as far as deposites in my radiator... Also if you are worried about deposites you do realize that having dissimilar metals (aluminum or brass radiator and a copper waterblock with brass fittings for example) in a cooling loop also causes the metals to break down quicker and can clog up a cooling system, it can break down the metals and also it even creates a small electrical charge in the system which breaks down the metals even more. If you don't believe me get a multimeter out and measure the cooling system in your car .. Unless your car is brand new I garuntee you will have a small electrical charge in the coolant.. Why do you think they put antifreeze in a car ?

It isn't just to keep you engine block from blowing up in the winter, they have additives in it like sodium and so forth which keeps the metal from breaking down.. If you just use pure distilled water the aluminum radiator and heads and what not in the system breaks down and causes mineral like deposites in the system.. Have you ever opened a cooling reservoir on a older car and seen deposits on the bottom of it ? That's because the coolant wasn't changed enough.. Antifreeze breaks down over time and its protection properties no longer work and so the cooling system breaks down.

If you guys want to be completetly anal about the water cooling system on a computer then I suggest you use a coolant for automobiles like water wetter or something similar.

They also sell coolant flushes, I could easily spend $15 on one and flush my cooling system in my computer if I was that worried about mineral deposits, also give it a good blow with my air compressor.

We've been doing this kind of stuff for years as we were taught by respected members and experts as well as from our own experiences. Not need to take it personal. We're all here to help each other.

Lets get back on track and on the subject for the OP.

As for the MCP30X pump, you should be ok with that much going on in your loop. Not sure if I would add much more to it though as I would look for a premium DDC or D5 pump if it was the case.
 
As for the MCP30X pump, you should be ok with that much going on in your loop. Not sure if I would add much more to it though as I would look for a premium DDC or D5 pump if it was the case.

No i wont be adding anything else in my loop and I just want to confirm with my loop diagram if that would be an efficient? any thoughts?

- I also made some measurements with the rads and i tell you it is gonna be a handful for such a tight space but you know what i will make it happen :)

Ill post some pics when everything is complete!
 
No i wont be adding anything else in my loop and I just want to confirm with my loop diagram if that would be an efficient? any thoughts?

- I also made some measurements with the rads and i tell you it is gonna be a handful for such a tight space but you know what i will make it happen :)

Ill post some pics when everything is complete!

What I mean is an efficient loop runs anywhere from 1.0-1.5 GPM. This pump will most likely run less than that but it won't obviously be a stand still. I'm guessimating here as I would most likely run the pump at full speed. I did a little research as this MCP30 pump runs at 3000 RPM / 6w vs. a MCP50x (big brother) at 4500 RPM / 18w to see the difference. Nonetheless, I think you should be ok.

Can't wait to see your finished project. :salute:
 
What I mean is an efficient loop runs anywhere from 1.0-1.5 GPM. This pump will most likely run less than that but it won't obviously be a stand still. I'm guessimating here as I would most likely run the pump at full speed. I did a little research as this MCP30 pump runs at 3000 RPM / 6w vs. a MCP50x (big brother) at 4500 RPM / 18w to see the difference. Nonetheless, I think you should be ok.

Can't wait to see your finished project. :salute:

Thank you for everyone's ideas and suggestions. This build wont be possible without all of OCF who chipped in to this build.

-Jack Bauer are you the guy from the series 24? sounds familiar lol!
 
We've been doing this kind of stuff for years as we were taught by respected members and experts as well as from our own experiences. Not need to take it personal. We're all here to help each other.

Lets get back on track and on the subject for the OP.

As for the MCP30X pump, you should be ok with that much going on in your loop. Not sure if I would add much more to it though as I would look for a premium DDC or D5 pump if it was the case.


Im not taking anything personal where did you read I was offended.. I garuntee ive been doing this a lot longer then you and the fact that I work on cars also gives me more in depth knowledge on his this work. I was just tossing information out.. Aparently you don't want to learn anything. But me offended ? Hardly lol

Yea distilled water is nice, but in the end if you don't have an agent in the system to inhibit corrosion and so forth.. You will still end up with a blocked, worn out system over time
 
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Thank you for everyone's ideas and suggestions. This build wont be possible without all of OCF who chipped in to this build.

:salute:

-Jack Bauer are you the guy from the series 24? sounds familiar lol!

Maybe..........:rofl:

Im not taking anything personal where did you read I was offended.. I garuntee ive been doing this a lot longer then you

I'am sure you have. You just forgot what year we're on and what in the world has been going on since that last time. I do respect that you still have an existing system still strong but what I don't appreciate is giving your own 2 cents when you've been out of the loop, contradicting what up-to-date folks are saying.

the fact that I work on cars also gives me more in depth knowledge on his this work. I was just tossing information out.. Aparently you don't want to learn anything. But me offended ? Hardly lol

Fair enough but folks who have been doing PC water cooling, believe it or not have more experience than you. Not trying to take a stab at you but its the same concept, if you will.

Yea distilled water is nice, but in the end if you don't have an agent in the system to inhibit corrosion and so forth.. You will still end up with a blocked, worn out system over time

The best liquid to use as it has been proven by experts is distilled water as it is the purest liquid to use and holds the best thermal properties that helps dissipate heat.
 
Ok... hopefully this has run its course and we can focus on the OP now?

GTX/Candy - take it to PM if you have anything further to say. :)
 
Hey GTX/Candy you guys are both pros and I really appreciate sharing your experience here. Guess what? I will take both point of views and apply it in my builds. the beauty of forums like these is we can share what we experience and that alone is so valuable for people like me. At the end of the day it is still up to me what i feel is good but now i am guided by suggestions like what you guys shared.

Come on lets group hug now! :grouphug:
 
The problem with both is that only one is right. ;)

Conventional wisdom (tested by some of the best - Skinee/Martin - used by everyone after) tells PC water coolers to stick with distilled and a biocide/silver kill coil for best results and low maintenance. If you want to risk it (build up in blocks/loop) with tap water going in your loop, be our guest. Just keep a closer eye on the loop flow rates and overall performance.

Hugs all around...:grouphug:
 
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