SOLVED watercooling parts

[dangerouSoul]

Hi guys whats up?I´m here today because i have a list of parts that i´ve done but i can´t decide the reservoir, pump or combo, i want a big reservoir like 200-300mL.I wanna a D5 also, i saw the thermaltake pacific PR22 D5 300mL, Is it good? For cpu block i choose the EK velocity non RGB (because i don´t have a RGB header on my motherboard), i don´t know which version i will buy (Nickel + Plexi) or (Copper + Plexi). I like EK supremacy evo but i don´t find it anywhere. What do you guys have in mind?I will attach some pics for you to see the list.

PS: i´m not sure yet about the rad i will get, EK coolstream XE 480 60mm thick or EK coolstream PE 480 38mm Thick.

Any thoughts?I didn´t buy the parts yet,i´m open to suggestions =).
My case is Corsair 900D.

 

[batboy]

I'm too old school to know what the best parts are, but I can address the nickel vs. copper blocks. Copper will probably conduct heat better, but you don't want to use copper in the loop if you have aluminum radiators. That said, I have no idea what the specs are on that rad.

 

[dangerouSoul]

I'm too old school to know what the best parts are, but I can address the nickel vs. copper blocks. Copper will probably conduct heat better, but you don't want to use copper in the loop if you have aluminum radiators. That said, I have no idea what the specs are on that rad.

Copper fins, 90% copper tubing(h90), brass chambers and aluminum/steel housing (it has shrouds) not made of aluminum ��

 

[batboy]

That's good, Makes it easy, get the copper block. There are ways to run different metals, like mixing in some anticorrosion additive or using deionized water and draining the look frequently (and probably other things that I've forgotten).

EDIT: I had a closer look at your list. I saw Y fittings, 45 and 90 fittings, and rotary fittings. My advice is to keep the loop as simple as possible. Those fittings that rotate will eventually leak and 90 fittings cut your flow. Sometimes you have to use them, but if possible, it's better to not restrict flow. The more you have, the more it'll be a problem.

 

[EarthDog]

Looks like a beefy system.. what CPU is this cooling exactly with a 38mm thick 480mm rad? It better have more cores/threads than I have finger and toes...

 

[Zerileous]

batboy is correct that copper may be a few degrees C cooler than nickel plated copper. The plating is very thin. I believe it is mostly for appearance. However if you like the appearance, it shouldn't make a massive difference in your temperatures. According to EK, the performance is identical. However they do not disclose any testing methodology.

Velocity is the newest block from EK. Not sure if they make as many EVOs any more.

Can't tell you much about the TT res, I use one made by Radikult and am very happy with it. You can look at his products on eBay. EK will sell you a longer tube for your resevoir, here. XSPC also makes tube reservoirs from glass, which is kind of cool. Singularity for very high end, hand polished etc.

Fittings: It looks like you plan to use the Y valve for your drain. I personally haven't used EK fittings, but they are well regarded. I use some rotary fittings from bitspower and they are very stiff. I was extremely impressed by the quality and fit and finish of them. The rotary parts are very stiff, due to the use of multiple high quality o-rings. Yes technically each is a point of potential failure however, so it is worth considering. If you do choose to use bitspower (or other non EK) fittings, please note that some people have had compatibility issues using large bore hardline tubing with the Velocity blocks. There wasn't enough space to tighten the compression nut down on both. An extender or angled fitting solved this. I'm not certain that this isn't a problem with EK fittings as well, but the cases I saw used a different brand. Also in general with fittings, more is better. Once you get into the build, you never know where it might seem better to have a different fitting. At the end it is frustrating to have a moderate amount of expensive fittings unused, but really getting a couple more of each fitting than you expect to need will save headaches during your build. Nobody every said this hobby was inexpensive .

Fans: I have Vardar fans (I bought them because they were the only SP fans I could find that were all white), and I love them. Not perfectly silent, but they are quite good at lower RPM. Higher RPMs they can be loud but they are moving a lot of air.

Rad: 38mm will be plenty for just about any single CPU with a 480mm rad.

 

[dangerouSoul]

That's good, Makes it easy, get the copper block. There are ways to run different metals, like mixing in some anticorrosion additive or using deionized water and draining the look frequently (and probably other things that I've forgotten).

EDIT: I had a closer look at your list. I saw Y fittings, 45 and 90 fittings, and rotary fittings. My advice is to keep the loop as simple as possible. Those fittings that rotate will eventually leak and 90 fittings cut your flow. Sometimes you have to use them, but if possible, it's better to not restrict flow. The more you have, the more it'll be a problem.

Thanks mate, actually what you saw on the list it is more than I need. I want to have it if I need it AHah. Mostly 90 I will not use. However I will use the 45.maybe I will invest more on it. I didn't know the rotary would leak over time.. Thanks bro. I will get the copper.

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Looks like a beefy system.. what CPU is this cooling exactly with a 38mm thick 480mm rad? It better have more cores/threads than I have finger and toes...

HI bro, actually it is cooling i7 6700k at 4,9Ghz, it will be cooling a gpu too (MSI 1080 gaming X), I can fit a 80mm rad on top but that I don't need AHah. I was thinking the 60mm thick rad push/pull because I can lol but I wanted to know if it is worth it. 16fpi if not mistaken. My AIO is messed up and I don't want to buy another one. I want to go big on custom loop ahah

 

[dangerouSoul]

batboy is correct that copper may be a few degrees C cooler than nickel plated copper. The plating is very thin. I believe it is mostly for appearance. However if you like the appearance, it shouldn't make a massive difference in your temperatures. According to EK, the performance is identical. However they do not disclose any testing methodology.

Velocity is the newest block from EK. Not sure if they make as many EVOs any more.

Can't tell you much about the TT res, I use one made by Radikult and am very happy with it. You can look at his products on eBay. EK will sell you a longer tube for your resevoir, here. XSPC also makes tube reservoirs from glass, which is kind of cool. Singularity for very high end, hand polished etc.

Fittings: It looks like you plan to use the Y valve for your drain. I personally haven't used EK fittings, but they are well regarded. I use some rotary fittings from bitspower and they are very stiff. I was extremely impressed by the quality and fit and finish of them. The rotary parts are very stiff, due to the use of multiple high quality o-rings. Yes technically each is a point of potential failure however, so it is worth considering. If you do choose to use bitspower (or other non EK) fittings, please note that some people have had compatibility issues using large bore hardline tubing with the Velocity blocks. There wasn't enough space to tighten the compression nut down on both. An extender or angled fitting solved this. I'm not certain that this isn't a problem with EK fittings as well, but the cases I saw used a different brand. Also in general with fittings, more is better. Once you get into the build, you never know where it might seem better to have a different fitting. At the end it is frustrating to have a moderate amount of expensive fittings unused, but really getting a couple more of each fitting than you expect to need will save headaches during your build. Nobody every said this hobby was inexpensive .

Fans: I have Vardar fans (I bought them because they were the only SP fans I could find that were all white), and I love them. Not perfectly silent, but they are quite good at lower RPM. Higher RPMs they can be loud but they are moving a lot of air.

Rad: 38mm will be plenty for just about any single CPU with a 480mm rad.

HI man, it isn't only the CPU that will be watercooled.. I pretend to watercool my msi 1080 gaming X too. I'm speaking to ek on that matter if they can provide one. Yeah the y valve and the drain valve. It will be easier. I'm looking for a reservoir/pump combo, I saw the links to the res. Didn't know ek sold them separately �� do you have any other opinion? I don't pretend to use all the fittings listed, it is just in case I need them. My doubt is I have space to fit a 60mm thick rad but I don't know if it is worth it, thats why I listed 60mm thick or 38mm..what do you think?

 

[Zerileous]

If you're going to be pushing both or desire silence the thicker rad can help in that case. The difference will be present but probably not huge. A 60mm rad does not equal 2x 30mm rads in performance. It might not even get you the performance of another 120mm, but it does help.

To clarify with the larger tube, you would purchase the normal pump/res combo, and in addition add the larger tube. You can also mix and match however you desire. You may not need the Y fitting as these usually have multiple outlet ports, but of course this depends on placement as the drain valve is a bit long.

What case are you using?

 

[batboy]

I'm surprised nobody has jumped on here and called me out for saying the rotary fittings will eventually leak. I didn't mean it exactly literally, but certainly as they are swiveled and when the O-rings and seals get old, there is a higher risk of leakage. That said, I have two XSPC rotary 90 fittings on my rig. I only rotated them once to setup the loop and haven't touched them since and they are on the top of my radiator that is mounted onto the rear of the case, so if or when it leaks, it'll drip down the outside of the rad and onto my desk, not onto components on the inside of the case. It is a compromise of course, so you need to consider those type of things.

 

[EarthDog]

Why would we question the truth?? There is more chance of a rotary fitting leaking than a static fitting.

 

[dangerouSoul]

If you're going to be pushing both or desire silence the thicker rad can help in that case. The difference will be present but probably not huge. A 60mm rad does not equal 2x 30mm rads in performance. It might not even get you the performance of another 120mm, but it does help.

To clarify with the larger tube, you would purchase the normal pump/res combo, and in addition add the larger tube. You can also mix and match however you desire. You may not need the Y fitting as these usually have multiple outlet ports, but of course this depends on placement as the drain valve is a bit long.

What case are you using?

No problems with that mate, i have Corsair 900D =) Yeah i know it doesn´t do 2x better..at most 3ºC difference. I´m buying new so my question is should i buy the 60mm or 38?I have space for it,I guess i will go between 200mL and 300ml reservoir. Can you help me out with it bro? I have to buy the top cap and bottom for it and pump separatly wright?

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I'm surprised nobody has jumped on here and called me out for saying the rotary fittings will eventually leak. I didn't mean it exactly literally, but certainly as they are swiveled and when the O-rings and seals get old, there is a higher risk of leakage. That said, I have two XSPC rotary 90 fittings on my rig. I only rotated them once to setup the loop and haven't touched them since and they are on the top of my radiator that is mounted onto the rear of the case, so if or when it leaks, it'll drip down the outside of the rad and onto my desk, not onto components on the inside of the case. It is a compromise of course, so you need to consider those type of things.

Ok mate, i will consider it. There is a 70% chance that i don´t need them. Thanks.

 

[Zerileous]

Sure if you have room for it why not have more rad than you need. It won't hurt.

200mL vs 300mL is just how big you want and if it will fit. I think the idea is to purchase a regular pump-res combo (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-100-revo-d5-pwm-incl-pump) and then upgrade with the tube.

 

[maxfly]

performance wise the xe is a much better option than the pe. 90s wont leak as a rule but if you work them around too much or they just loosen up on their own they will 100% leak. my rule of thumb with 90s and 45s is if they turn hard as hell they wont leak. if they turn easy they will leak.

 

[dangerouSoul]

Sure if you have room for it why not have more rad than you need. It won't hurt.

200mL vs 300mL is just how big you want and if it will fit. I think the idea is to purchase a regular pump-res combo (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-100-revo-d5-pwm-incl-pump) and then upgrade with the tube.

OH I misunderstood bro, sorry. So I will buy that pump/res combo, and add the larger tube that I want but it has to be 60mm diameter wright? And then should I buy a larger internal tube too? Or that which come included is OK?

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performance wise the xe is a much better option than the pe. 90s wont leak as a rule but if you work them around too much or they just loosen up on their own they will 100% leak. my rule of thumb with 90s and 45s is if they turn hard as hell they wont leak. if they turn easy they will leak.

OK mate, thanks for enlight me on that matter.

 

[Zerileous]

OH I misunderstood bro, sorry. So I will buy that pump/res combo, and add the larger tube that I want but it has to be 60mm diameter wright? And then should I buy a larger internal tube too? Or that which come included is OK?

Yep. I know the EK res doesn't normally come with an internal tube on their reservoirs. I've never looked at one in person to really see how it's set up. You could contact EK and see what they suggest.

 

[dangerouSoul]

Yep. I know the EK res doesn't normally come with an internal tube on their reservoirs. I've never looked at one in person to really see how it's set up. You could contact EK and see what they suggest.

It comes with a tiny internal tube mate, only 12mm..I guess without the tube i will get that splashing sound.

 

[Zerileous]

Ahh, well not sure if it makes a huge difference then. 12mm vs 140mm is already a huge difference in height. But again I'm not speaking from hands on experience. If there's an undesired noise that can be mitigated by a larger internal tube then go for it.

 

[dangerouSoul]

Ahh, well not sure if it makes a huge difference then. 12mm vs 140mm is already a huge difference in height. But again I'm not speaking from hands on experience. If there's an undesired noise that can be mitigated by a larger internal tube then go for it.

Thanks bro. =P

 

[MaddMutt]

I have found that the best all around size is the 120mm-140mm for the tube. Once you have the loop filled with coolant, what is in the tank is Extra..... Like a full bottle ($15-$20) just sitting there. I have seen on some sites where coolant left in tank has left perminate visible rings on the tube. Make sure you check the coolant =compatibility= with your parts. The BIGGEST thing to remember, drain and re-fill/re-hose new EVERY 6 Months. This will keep your blocks looking and preforming at there best I have had and still use 4+ 90's that are over 5 yrs old.
I have this model http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-pwm-incl-sleeving-and-pump.html and also HIGHLY recommend the D5/MCP-655 Pump (Same just different maker = 6 total) http://www.performance-pcs.com/pump...5--laing-d5-pwm/?dir=asc&limit=90&order=price
In the end, I gave up on paying $$$ for coolant and just run Distilled Water (1Gal=$1.50/4L=$1.75 USD).

Thank You For Your Time