Watercooling Setup

[Coreyoliseffect]

So I will start this off by saying that this post will be filled with questions that only I could ask. If you have seen some of my other posts then you know what I am talking about. Please forgive any misuse of vocab. That being said, thank you in advance.

I have been reading up on WCing and it seems that it is going to be the only other way that I am going to be able to push my Q9400 any farther due to ambient temps. I have acquired a heater core from my uncle. I was thinking that 4 120mm fans are going to be the best bet for the rad. I have included a pic of the rad. From what my measurements and my Uncle said it has 1/2 inch barb.

I have also been reading up on some of the different options for WC. I will only be running one loop. Just want to cool the CPU. I have looked at the D-TEK FuZion v2. If there are any better options for a decent price, 80$ or under. I do live in the US also. Trying to do this on a decent budget, hints the random heater core rad.

For the pump, seems that most favor the Swiftech MCP655. Looking at running this with a T-line and not a reservoir to cu back on price. If it is more hassle that all good. Extra work for a dollar saved is fine by me. Although if I need to have a reservoir then so be it. Once again any advice is welcome.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

[CharlieCS]

if cost is an issue , a 355 or even a 350 will run a single block loop just fine also you can opt out for a cheaper block something like swiftech apoge gt or better yet a HEAT KILLER LC , you will lose performance with sad blocks but they are a bit cheaper and difference will be minimal, the copper version of the heatkiller is going to give you the most performance but it breaks the 80 $ dollar barrier by a little bit , there is nothing wrong with using a t-line over a res .

 

[Coreyoliseffect]

I see a 65$ version of the HEAT KILLER. Is that the copper version?

 

[CharlieCS]

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=199&products_id=25215, this is the full copper version,the LT which is 64 bucks will perform within a degree -two of it .

 

[Spawn-Inc]

keep in mind that heatcores do work great, but need high pressure/speed fans for best performance. so if noise is an issue then you might want to look into a pc ready rad.

otherwise great choices.

 

[Conumdrum]

The heatercore was THE standard long ago. The one you have looks clean and will prolly do just fine. You have the pump, block, and T line figured out.

I'm not sure on the size of the heatercore, is it about 160mm x 160mm? If so, build a push and pull shroud to cover the full rad and get some good HS fans for it. Using thick cardboard and lots of Duct tape works just fine. You'll need some strong CFM due to the high fins per inch of the rad, but it will give you good cooling at a free cost.

Hopefully someone will speak up with fans. About $15 -$20 each is just fine.

Looks like your doing fine.

EDIT: Typed 'heater core shroud' into google. Give it a try.

 

[hokiealumnus]

Ultra High Speed Panaflo. They ooze quality, have plenty of pressure and will last forever. They look pretty all mounted up as well, at least IMO. Folks can keep their LED fans, I want mine looking like they have it where it counts!

You can go Delta if you really want crazy CFM, but you'll pay $5-7 more for it and reach the point where noise will become intolerable. These three are loud turned up, but I can deal with it for benching. Just make sure you have a fan controller for 24/7 use.

 

[Coreyoliseffect]

I'm not sure on the size of the heatercore, is it about 160mm x 160mm? If so, build a push and pull shroud to cover the full rad and get some good HS fans for it. Using thick cardboard and lots of Duct tape works just fine. You'll need some strong CFM due to the high fins per inch of the rad, but it will give you good cooling at a free cost.

Looks about 190mm x 180mm. Mind you that measurement was taken by me using a leatherman multi tool.

I have 7 LOGISYS Computer CF120BL 120mm BLUE 4 LED LED Case Fan already in the case so could I sack four of those form the case and use those or are the Ultra High Speed Panaflo gonna "blow" them away. I see the CFM is WAY better on the Panflos. I am just hesitant about spending the money lol. Call me a budget builder...

On the note of push/pull. I want to make sure that I have this right, I dida small amount of time googleing and from what I can tell it fans pushing air into the rad on one side and then fans pulling air off of the rad on the other side. Sound right?

 

[Conumdrum]

Yep, push on one side, the other side pulling the air through.

 

[hokiealumnus]

Since you already have them, give it a try. They can always be replaced.

 

[Spawn-Inc]

ya, fans on each side. i run both my triple rads with push/pull.

and ya since you have the fans you can try them first.

 

[Coreyoliseffect]

So I have been staring at all of the info and parts that I will have to order and I must say that all of you drive a hard bargain. I have decided to go ahead with the project. I was wondering though. Does it matter which side of the rad that I set it on? If you look at the pic above I was going to build a shroud that would have the fans facing the fins and set it on its side. In other words tilt it away from the comp you see there and have it on its side.

 

[Coreyoliseffect]

if cost is an issue , a 355 or even a 350 will run a single block loop just fine also you can opt out for a cheaper block something like swiftech apoge gt or better yet a HEAT KILLER LC , you will lose performance with sad blocks but they are a bit cheaper and difference will be minimal, the copper version of the heatkiller is going to give you the most performance but it breaks the 80 $ dollar barrier by a little bit , there is nothing wrong with using a t-line over a res .

What size barbs do the pumps have on them? I am looking at tubing for a 1/2 inch on the rad. I am gonna use 7/16 tubing for the better fit.

I noticed that there is a back plate option for the LGA 775 socket. Should that be something that I order as well?

 

[CharlieCS]

They have 3/8 inch barbs , performance wise 1/2 and 3/8 is about half a degree and in a single block i dont think it will matter at all , 3/8 tubing will fit on a 1/2 barb after soaking in hot water , do use hose clamps of course either way . If your mobo doesnt have one it might be a good idea to get a backplate to be able to apply good amount of pressure.

 

[Coreyoliseffect]

They have 3/8 inch barbs , performance wise 1/2 and 3/8 is about half a degree and in a single block i dont think it will matter at all , 3/8 tubing will fit on a 1/2 barb after soaking in hot water , do use hose clamps of course either way . If your mobo doesnt have one it might be a good idea to get a backplate to be able to apply good amount of pressure.

My good amn you are all over my questions. :d Thanks for answering them. I meant to comment earlier on your avatar. That's some quality stuff right there. Well it is all down to ordering the parts now, so I will have to update this thread wehn I have more progress.

 

[Conumdrum]

7/16 ID tubing does fit better. But I never ever seen or read of properly installed 1/2 ID tubing leaking either. Use 7/16 for uber peace of mind, make sure you clamp it well, especially on the rad since it's not the really good barb style connections.

3/8 on a 1/2 barb is very very hard, no matter what peeps say. And you will have to cut it off to remove it..

 

[Coreyoliseffect]

3/8 on a 1/2 barb is very very hard, no matter what peeps say. And you will have to cut it off to remove it..

I am definitely going with the 7/16. Will it provide a good enough fit on the 3/8 barb on the pump though. I have no issues clamping a hose clamp down.
Went ahead and ordered the parts. For anyone that is interested here is the cost of each:

Watercool HEATKILLER® CPU Rev3.0 775 LC CPU Water Block (11010)
Water Block Backplate Add HEATKILLER® Backplate LGA775
Fitting Size 1/2" Barb for 1/2" ID tube

www.performance-pcs.com - $58.70​

SWIFTECH - MCP355

www.newegg.com - $64.99​

Raditor - Heater Core

Uncle for FREE​

Hope this info can be useful to someone else. I will of course update this when I start installing. Thank for all the help everyone.

 

[hokiealumnus]

FYI, to use 1/2" tubing with an MCP355, you have to get an aftermarket top for it. Since I don't see a reservoir in your list, and if you're not going with a T-line, I'd recommend the XSPC reservoir top. You'll kill two birds with one stone.

If you want to go T-line, there is also the non-res XSPC top you can screw barbs into.

Both of them will not only allow you to put whatever barbs you want on the pump, but they'll give you a nice little performance boost. Have a look at the flow charts Sidewinder supplied. They are from a comparison done by the very knowledgeable Martin's Liquid Lab before he semi-retired from WC equipment comparison.

 

[Coreyoliseffect]

Any advantage with res over Tline or vice verse? I believe that I read that the res was easier on maintenance. I notices that the red that you pointed out came with the two LED's. I am a sucker for anything that glows.

 

[jr1]

i like the ease of bleedin with a res
the t-line i haven't tried and therefor can't tell how easy or hard it is compared to a res
as far as i know the top's that hokiealumnus linked to is very good parts