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watercooling WITHOUT water?

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maxfly

Member
Joined
May 7, 2005
id heard of this stuff in the past. actually saw it on a hotrod tv show but didnt hang around to hear about it. just figured it was another brand of coolant. well according to them its waterless?! say what? its glycol based and of course the first thing that i thought of is can i run it in my loop?! my first concern is how thick is this stuff? what do you guys/gals think? im going to do some reading and see whats up...
https://www.evanscoolant.com/products/high-performance-coolant/[/URL]


here are the tech specs that mean nothing to me lol.

Relative Density kg/L
@ 20°C
1.107
D1122
Boiling Point, Reflux
191°C (375°F)
D1120
Flash Point, CC
120°C (248°F)
D93
pH, 50 vol% in DI Water
8.5
D1287
Thermal Conductivity
W/m·K @ 90°C (194°F)
0.27
D7896
Specific Heat
J/kg·K @ 90°C (194°F)
2633
D1269
Total Water, mass %
0.5
D1123, E203
Dynamic Viscosity
Pa·s @ -40°C (-40°F)
2.0
D2983

also no idea why all of that is a link...
[/URL]
 
Last edited:
It's thicker than water and offers no benefit over D water and a biocide.
No different than running straight pre-mixed antifreeze.
Save your money.
 
well that sucks :( oh well it was fleeting but a nice thought.
 
I have actually had hands-on experience with this product and talked with a Rep about use as a coolant in a loop.

At room temperature, the product is relatively similar or a little better than a 50/50 mix of glycol/water when it came to viscosity. This is based on handling and pouring the product and not actual viscosity testing.

As for heat transfer, it has about 69% of the heat capacity of water and about 40% of the Thermal conductivity of water based on standardization of 90C as that is the temperature listed in your table.

Lastly at cold temperatures for those of us who use a rad outdoors, this product becomes way to thick at 2.0 Pa/S vs a 60/40 glycol mixture at 0.81Pa/S when compared at -40C (60/40 glycol used as reference due to freeze point of 50/50 glycol being about -37C)

Edit:

Wow I really took to long to type this post this time:D
 
ummm, go read the msds, then go read the msds for any other automotive coolant, they are blowing smoke up your flue.
 
Not towards you Max but I swear we've had these auto fluid discussions before while I get shut down by armchair car guru quarterbacks on PC fluids vs auto fluids. Apples n oranges but they're all a fruit. They both perform differently in different environments but have the same objective. Enough said. One is made to performs at extreme environments when the other doesn't even come close.

Use distilled and silver at your own risk or purchase the dreaded $20 of clear premix after spendings 100s if not 1000s to only cheap out on fluid. To each their own but auto fluids don't belong in PCs. You'll eventually kill off the poor pumps.
 
I'm in agreement with GTX here.

The fluid isn't what my concern is, the issue I would be leaning towards is what effects on the pump or even possible breakdown of tubing material.

We've seen products come and go, perhaps someone can do a real test with this stuff and see how it truly performs.
 
Not towards you Max but I swear we've had these auto fluid discussions before while I get shut down by armchair car guru quarterbacks on PC fluids vs auto fluids. Apples n oranges but they're all a fruit. They both perform differently in different environments but have the same objective. Enough said. One is made to performs at extreme environments when the other doesn't even come close.

Use distilled and silver at your own risk or purchase the dreaded $20 of clear premix after spendings 100s if not 1000s to only cheap out on fluid. To each their own but auto fluids don't belong in PCs. You'll eventually kill off the poor pumps.

I've even seen horror stories from Water Wetter.
 
i hear ya Jack. i tried water wetter when i first started wcing and found it to be awful. it stained everything in my loop white and never stopped foaming up in my res. everytime i restarted my pump the res would fill up with white foam. figured i put to much in(capfull) so i drained and refilled with about half a capfull and it still stained everything and foamed like crazy. it took forever to clean my gear, both times. and it didnt help my temps at all haha.
 
To be even a little useful you'd have to run your rig at 195F+ all the time with the stuff. It likes to be in a pressurized system, too. That's what keeps the foam down in vehicles. All it does is break down the surface tension of the water.
 
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