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what do you guys think of this for cooling

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buffhr

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Dec 18, 2000
Ok i was thinking of this the other day while looking at the info section on water cooling.I was looking at a review and they were saying that the more surface the better and they were comparing a copper block and a block made from an aluminium hs both were the same so i decided that i would get the hedgehog(476m for slot a copper)amd solder some sides on it and use it to cool down my classic athlon 850@1074(124fsb)ram at 169 cas 3) and then i started thinking a bit more and thought that while i was at it i should put some tec(peltiers) on there tooand decided that i would make my plates that i would solder on it a little longer and meke them go down a bit under the hs(hope your still following me here i know it aint too clear but im doing the best i can)and make an incasement for some peltier instead of using another cold plates and was thinking of three peltier 80 watts each or maybe 3 118 watts uncertain at this point.Do you guys think this is a good isea and do you think that maybe i could double up my peltiers and the hs would be able to handle the heat with water at 20C and cpu pushing sarround 100watts of heat.And for stacking up peltiers maibe 6 72 watts any tips or info on this would be greatly appreciated . cause im pretty knew at thic thanx

Buffhr

here is a pic of the heatsink
 
I like the Idea about enclosing the hedge hog for use as a waterblock...... thats a kickA idea. Staking peltiers is a bit tricky, each succesive peltier needs to be able to handle the combined heat of the CPU and all the peltiers benieth it. So staking a 180wtt on top of an 85wtt would be a good combo. But 6 72wtt peltiers staked is called a space heating CPU auto distructor. Stay away from combos like that. :)
 
ok thanx how about 3 72 watts and 3 118 watts what do you think of that
 
buffhr (Dec 18, 2000 12:12 p.m.):
ok thanx how about 3 72 watts and 3 118 watts what do you think of that
If you run the 15v-118wtt peltiers @14v and the 15v-72wtt peltiers @ 12v it should work nicely. I'm currently working on a little power converter to booste 12V to 20V for use with a 24V 180wtt peltier.

note to OddOne: If you any information to help me out send it my way. I'm currently thinking along the lines of a high frequency capacitor(100KHz+) followed by a rheostat.
 
buffhr (Dec 18, 2000 12:12 p.m.):
ok thanx how about 3 72 watts and 3 118 watts what do you think of that

I've talked quite a bit with Gabe at Swiftech about stacking. His experience has shown that stacking as a whole is not a good Idea. The resulting cooling is VERY shallow. I.E. fades fast underload.
 
I think that having the top peltier capable of remove the total wattage plus 10-15% would help relieve this shallowness. Perhaps Gab has thought of this too. Also It would not hurt to have a 1/4" spacer between TECs to act as a buffer. You know what they say..... nessesity is the mother off all invention. And I NEED to get my CPU down to -40C under full load. There has to be a way to do it with TECs and water cooling. Was Gab using watercooling? Dan? You have a vapochill right? throw a few TECs on her and find out. I find it hard to believe that NO one has come up with a solution to any shallowness that exists.
 
Stacking Peltiers = Very Bad Idea.

When one is overloaded or fails for whatever reason, the other(s) will fail in a rapid chain reaction and that'll leave them to act as partial insulators to prevent whatever they were cooling from staying cool. PopPopPopPOW!!! :'(

oO
 
(Directed towards Jeff ), I have had my setup down to -52c, this was with 2 frost74 pelts,(www.tedist.com) ontop of 1 copper cold plate which was 3/16x1 3/4x4". I use an Aluminum 2x4" Water Block, without Radiators. I have a small dorm type fridge, and have the freezer section dropped down into a plastic rectangular reservoir if you will. The pump sits down in the res, along with the freezer compartment, and all hoses are insulated with Pipe Wrap, and are Duct taped along the entire length. I use a Radio Shack( did use when I ran this ), 10amp 13.8v Desktop supply, which worked great. I still run the same setup, but with only 1 pelt. At the time I was running a P3 650 at up to 1007 and would get the afforementioned -52c/ but I MUST say, it takes some pretty fantastic insulation on the cpu to stop the condensation, but it can and has been done. I changed out my cpu to a 750, and just run 1 pelt now, as the cpu isn't stable over 135 fsb no matter what temp I run it at/ shrug.
 
note to OddOne: If you any information to help me out send it my way. I'm currently thinking along the lines of a high frequency capacitor(100KHz+) followed by a rheostat.

Maxim has several step-up voltage regulator ICs that might be useful for what you have in mind. However, you're going to need to switch a serious amount of current and the inductor a high enough current switching supply will need might be a problem.

BTW, you can request free samples from Maxim for most of their switching ICs - I have a little box of them on my desk that I haven't had time to mess around with yet.

oO
 
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