What UV dye do you recommend?

[g0dM@n]

UV itself will cloud some tubing, though in the computer world it'd probably have to be quite a few UV LEDs to do it. Vinyl is especially prone to it.

I'm leaving it clear for now, but I might still throw some UV dye into it. When I go through the rest of my clear tubing (still have plenty left, so I'll just keep replacing twice a yr), then I'll just buy the colored tubing and be done with UV dye. I like to show off my computer with the colors and everything b/c I've made sales based on how much people love my setup, especially now that I'm running my own business.

 

[hokiealumnus]

Liking that Sapphire? Did it do better for you over the (IIRC) FV1?

 

[g0dM@n]

Liking that Sapphire? Did it do better for you over the (IIRC) FV1?

Well it's doing better, but I'm not sure what the ANSWER was. I've made a ton of changes:

• took apart the entire watercooling system, cleaned it out and put new tubing
• cleaned out all the dust (tons of it) on my triple radiator
• replaced the motor in my MCP350 with a newer one, which was modded with a toggle switch to switch between 10 watts and 18 watts, which I have it running 18 watts right now. The old motor could not be modded, so now I have more flow. I still have to test 10 watts to see if it made much of a difference
• I threw in my HD4890 into the loop, so now a GPU is also putting a load on the cooling system, contrary to all of the above, this would worsen temps

So... I don't know if the cleaner loop, the cleaner radiator, or the 18w motor made the difference... or if it truly was getting the new block. I'm willing to bet it was a combination of everything, but definitely this block is no junk as my load temp at 1.50 vcore doesn't break 48C load with linpack and 45C load with OCCT... with a GPU in the loop!

 

[hokiealumnus]

Those are superb temps! Wish i7s ran as cool as PIIs. I'm only at 1.317Vcore loaded...and seeing 64C on two cores and 67C on the other two (max spikes, it's usually below that). Honestly, I'd guess your positive effects were in this order, most help to least help:

1. Dust
2. Block
3. Motor
4. Tubing

 

[g0dM@n]

Those are superb temps! Wish i7s ran as cool as PIIs. I'm only at 1.317Vcore loaded...and seeing 64C on two cores and 67C on the other two (max spikes, it's usually below that). Honestly, I'd guess your positive effects were in this order, most help to least help:

1. Dust
2. Block
3. Motor
4. Tubing

Well from what I've heard if the chip hits 55C or more, it'll affect overclocking, and I think 65C is unsafe to keep for long periods of time.

So, even though they run cooler, they're threshold is no where close to i7 chips. There's a benefit to having either or.

Look at the specs (I have the 125W):

• Phenom II 945 125W Specs - link - 62C max temp (lower than I thought!!), but can go up to 1.50v
• Phenom II 945 95W Specs - Link - 71C max temp, but can only go to 1.425v

I wondered at first if I should have gone the 95W version, but I guess it doesn't OC as good since the voltage isn't speced to go as high... who knows.

 

[Bobnova]

Could take some highlighter pens and draw lines along the tubing, the ink glows nicely under blacklights and glowing pinstripes would look pretty cool IMO.

Just don't slip while drawing

 

[g0dM@n]

Could take some highlighter pens and draw lines along the tubing, the ink glows nicely under blacklights and glowing pinstripes would look pretty cool IMO.

Just don't slip while drawing

Don't slip on a curvy object? Good luck to me!!

 

[Bobnova]

Could mask it, stretch the hose (before cutting) between two objects and put some tape on it.

If i ever WC i'm doing this

 

[g0dM@n]

Could mask it, stretch the hose (before cutting) between two objects and put some tape on it.

If i ever WC i'm doing this

Well, too late now... I'm definitely not pulling it all apart now. It'll take hours. That's the one and only thing I hate about watercooling -->the amount of time it takes!! I'm not afraid of leaks, as it's never happened to me... it could someday, but I'm willing to take that chance... it's just so much time to maintain!!

 

[muddocktor]

g0dM@n, I don't see how you say it takes so much time for maintenance. That's one reason I have gone almost exclusively to water; because it is less maintenance intensive than high end air. Unless I am making changes to a loop, I just blow the dust out the rad every 6 months or so and don't worry about it. I change the fluids out around once a year. Of course I'm not running dyes or UV reactive tubing, just black tubing and silver Tygon in all my loops.

 

[g0dM@n]

g0dM@n, I don't see how you say it takes so much time for maintenance. That's one reason I have gone almost exclusively to water; because it is less maintenance intensive than high end air. Unless I am making changes to a loop, I just blow the dust out the rad every 6 months or so and don't worry about it. I change the fluids out around once a year. Of course I'm not running dyes or UV reactive tubing, just black tubing and silver Tygon in all my loops.

In order to get the dust out of my rads, I have to dismantle everything to pull it out as it's embedded into my case. Even if I didn't have to dust it, to drain the water and flush it out also requires taking it out of the case.

I could DRAIN the water somewhat by shaking my heavy case around, but then it wouldn't be flushed...

 

[Bobnova]

Find a friendly auto repair shop, just drag the entire box down there and attack it with their air compressor.
I don't think you'd have a hard time finding one that would accept cookies or beer as a trade

(Im an auto mechanic, we accept cookies )

 

[Spawn-Inc]

Find a friendly auto repair shop, just drag the entire box down there and attack it with their air compressor.
I don't think you'd have a hard time finding one that would accept cookies or beer as a trade

(Im an auto mechanic, we accept cookies )

i've got thousands, but they're hard to eat at first

 

[g0dM@n]

Find a friendly auto repair shop, just drag the entire box down there and attack it with their air compressor.
I don't think you'd have a hard time finding one that would accept cookies or beer as a trade

(Im an auto mechanic, we accept cookies )

My father owns a repair shop, but I moved out of my parents house a while ago and live 20 min away now... I guess it may be easier in the end to do what you said... it's not a bad idea.

 

[Bobnova]

Certainly cheaper then canned air at least. Probably don't even have to bribe your dad, cept with a visit

 

[BeHappy]

Canned air is one of the most overpriced things I can think of. Even at waly world its almost $5 a can...

 

[g0dM@n]

Canned air is one of the most overpriced things I can think of. Even at waly world its almost $5 a can...

I hate paying for canned air, but it's a must for me b/c when I go to a client and dust buildup causes a machine to overheat, I've no choice but to have canned air on hand.

I've used the air cans that can be pumped, but they are not as strong and die out EXTREMELY fast. You basically have to pump and pump, a lot! Does anyone know of GOOD ones?

 

[Spawn-Inc]

I hate paying for canned air, but it's a must for me b/c when I go to a client and dust buildup causes a machine to overheat, I've no choice but to have canned air on hand.

I've used the air cans that can be pumped, but they are not as strong and die out EXTREMELY fast. You basically have to pump and pump, a lot! Does anyone know of GOOD ones?

i've drilled a hole in the bottom of one for my cheap airbrush kit, and hooked it up to the air compressor, but it doesn't last very long either. i just leave it hooked to the compressor when i use it.

i also burnt myself with the chemical that was in there when i drilled into... lol (allyl isothiocyanate)

i also made a larger tank for some extra air.
here are the pictures
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showpost.php?p=92107&postcount=4

 

[muddocktor]

g0dM@n, go to an AC or auto business and see if they have an old empty r134 or r22 freon bottle that you can get from them. They are probably about 3-5 gallons in size and with just a little ingenuity can be made into a fine volume bottle for compressed air. All you would need is to change from the bottle valve's thread to a standard air fitting quick connect and then connect a hose and blower nozzle onto the tank. Charge the bottle up by connecting it to a compressor and shut the valve on the tank, then when you need to clean something with air you simply connect the hose and blow nozzle to the tank and open the valve and blow it out.

 

[Bobnova]

That should work great, those tanks should be rated to plenty of pressure for that. You'll have to use air sparingly but it'd beat the hell out of canned air.
You could always get a couple of those empty not-freon tanks, too.
Or just by a cheap POS harbor freight $50 compressor used on craigslist, there's always that option.
You can often find 'em for about fifty bucks, which isn't bad at all.

You could even use one of the tiny 12v car tire filler compressor thingies ($12, usually) and an old (well emptied...) propane tank (free on craigslist, post a wanted ad and you'll have lots of replies).
It'll take forever to fill, but it's cheeeeeep.