Which GTX 1080 ti to get. Too many Choices!

[||Console||]

you could try the shunt mod , I havent really benched my 1080 but I can see this mod in my future so I can get the 1.09v on a reg basis

 

[Kenrou]

I can't fault my AORUS 1080ti, 2088mhz ~70c stock voltage and nicely quiet. Anyone tried this yet : https://github.com/LaneLyng/MobilePascalTDPTweaker/releases

Also : http://www.overclock.net/t/1621789/pascal-bios-editor-any-news/140#post_26294611

 

[Jeff G]

Definitively not going that far, not right now. Maybe a couple years down the road but for now I just want to push it as far as it will go without physical modification. Plus I dont want to take the loop apart and waterblock off any time soon.

 

[Sentential]

But what determines that is what I'm wondering. If it's not power or heat, what stops it from going higher?
I'm happy with it right now at +150 on the core clock and +500 on the memory. That seems to be the best gain in fps. I can go to +600 on the memory and +160 on the core clock and still be stable, but for some reason my fps are actually lower (and about 100 points down in TimeSpy).

It's mostly a curiosity thing, I like to tinker with everything and see what the limits are and what causes them to hit the limits. I'd love to push the card further just to see how far it goes if I can find out what the limiting factor is, but at the end of the day I'll stick with my +150/500 settings for gaming.

What wingman is saying is more true for the old way of doing things. That’s not to say that it isn’t true it’s just not the whole story.

Somewhere on that graphics card is a power limit. Just for the argument we’ll say it’s 300w you can split that number up a couple of ways it could be 3ghz at .5v or 1.5ghz at 1v etc etc but there’s a hard coded limit for the FETs on that board somewhere in the firmware that’s doing it. I’d honestly reccomend backing the voltage off and see if that does it.

Intel chips especially mobile ones on MacBooks have a predetermined power limit and once it’s hit you get nothing more which is why when fully loaded the GPU and CPU underclock not because of heat but because logicboard power draw hit 85W combined

 

[Jeff G]

I cant stably surpass 2088mhz on the core regardless of any setting. Im guessing it's a voltage issue as I cant get the card over 1.081v. If I could get it to step up to the 1.093v that is supposed to be the cards limit, Im betting I could go higher. Admittedly, I didnt play with the custom curves much as I was getting weird boosts up to 2300+ with really small adjustments and it would insta-freeze. With it set to stay at 1.075v, 2088mhz is stable on the core and I got a staggering +850 on the memory before I called it a night (for a total of 12.7ghz).
Tomorrow is another night and I'll have some more fun seeing where I can go with it.
The card never got over 35c the entire night of pushing it. Heat definitely wont be an issue for me.

 

[Woomack]

I don't know what card do you have but once you set higher voltage then the card hits power limit and won't OC any higher. This is why people make these shunt mods. Personally I don't like liquid metal and for gaming it's not worth to use this mod. Some BIOS versions have removed power limits but I don't know how it really works as I had no time to test it.
Higher voltage helps till some point but later to set higher clock, cards need higher power limit or will throttle to the same lower values. Anyway 2088MHz boost on 1.075V is good result. Many cards won't boost past 2012MHz.

 

[Sentential]

I don't know what card do you have but once you set higher voltage then the card hits power limit and won't OC any higher. This is why people make these shunt mods. Personally I don't like liquid metal and for gaming it's not worth to use this mod. Some BIOS versions have removed power limits but I don't know how it really works as I had no time to test it.
Higher voltage helps till some point but later to set higher clock, cards need higher power limit or will throttle to the same lower values. Anyway 2088MHz boost on 1.075V is good result. Many cards won't boost past 2012MHz.

Liquid metal, at least the newer Indium blends are quite good, you might want to give it a second look.

 

[Jeff G]

The difference between 2076mhz and 2088mhz (still can't break past that) is literally 0fps. But, dropping the core down to 2076mhz allowed me to push the memory up to 12800mhz with zero artifacts after about an hour of testing, and that gained me about 1.5fps over the 12700mhz I could hit at 2088mhz. I pushed it as far as 13000mhz, which gave me another 2fps over the 12800, but I saw quite a few artifacts. 12900mhz saw some small ones here and there, but not what I'd consider stable so I dropped it back to 12800.
So, as of now, 2076mhz core and 12800mhz memory are my stable overclocks with zero issues. Only an hour into testing tonight, but temps maxed out at 33c. Still maxing voltage at 1.081 and GPU power shows a max of 80.86%.
I'm calling it a night for testing. Time to get this thing gaming!

 

[Brando]

aftermarket for low noise + OC only. the FE cooler can keep the card at 62c at 100% and hit 2050 mhz if i remember correctly but it's loud. at stock the FE cooler is perfectly quiet but if you want to overclock AND have it quiet you need a big hunk of metal or a water cooler on the card. i uninstalled precision to be honest because the oc didn't really matter much. for games where the card was already fast enough my monitor can only do 60hz anyhow. if a game is really beating up the car and getting 40fps at 4k a maximum oc will only get 10% more performance which takes it from 40fps to 45fps which still sucks. at that point you need either sli, lower settings, or a better video card. the only time the 10% oc matter is if you're just a hair under 60fps refresh of your monitor at 55-59fps. then you can feel a little better about hitting the magic 60fps mark. if an oc gave a 20% performance boost i'd be all over it but what you get is just a drop in the bucket.

 

[Tír na nÓg]

^wise words!