XSPC Raystorm Intel block. Poor performance

[jebediah]

Right, but that is not the point. It will also be 'summer' in Sweden so temps may go up in the house a degree or two C as well.

Well, i wouldn't call it summer. The sun never reaches the Northern Sweden

No but you'r right. When the time comes there's always room for more rads.

Don't know whats the best choice though.
A 2x120mm in the front inside the case
A 1x120mm in the back inside the case
or a 2x140mm outside in the back och the case using EK - UNI RAD Holder 140

 

[xsuperbgx]

I would run load on both GPUs and on the CPU to see what your worst case scenario temperatures would be then decide from there if you want to add more radiators or leave it as is.

 

[jebediah]

Ok, here it is.
Run the stress test for 30min or so, but can give it a hour when i have the time "damn you BF4"

*Room temperature atm is 23c
*P95 at "in-place large FFT's"
*Unigine Heaven at max settings

Sorry for the bad pic


It seems like core 2 and 3 tend to run hotter. I never saw them go above 74c though.

 

[EarthDog]

Blend or Small FFT would be the test of choice... but... the point has been made it seems..

 

[ATMINSIDE]

CPU is getting pretty darn warm for that OC on custom water...

 

[wagex]

ultrakazes ftw!

 

[jebediah]

Well, what's your final word?
A bad CPU block or are the heat from the GPU's causing the high CPU temp?

 

[EarthDog]

The song remains the same... The latter.

 

[jebediah]

So would one 120 rad make any different or should i go with a bigger one and place it outside the case?
A 120 rad would fit just fine right before the CPU.

As i see it, i don't have to do anything atm. But it is good to know when that day comes.

 

[xsuperbgx]

I don't think lack of radiator is the problem, your gpu temps are still low. If radiator was your problem, then they would get warmer than 42C.

Did you check the plate inside the waterblock, like waza mentioned on the previous page?

 

[GTXJackBauer]

Check the water block as I've seen folks post about it. The plates were found in the wrong position in other cases, even missing in one instance. Make sure you're using the inlet on your block and not the outlet. CPUs are very sensative as you're pushing the warm flow to the CPU from the GPU's. I am sure your temps would drop some if you had the CPU first in line and than the GPUs. If you do decide for the hell of it to add more heat surface, add more than 120 if you're going to hang something outside.

You never told us what RPM your fans were. Have you benchmarked at different fan speeds to see which gives you the optimal performance?

Also, I've noticed your tubing is already starting to cloud. What liquid and biocide are you using?

 

[jebediah]

I don't think lack of radiator is the problem, your gpu temps are still low. If radiator was your problem, then they would get warmer than 42C.

Yeah, i had the same thoughts but did not want to jump to conclusion since i'm new to WC.

Did you check the plate inside the waterblock, like waza mentioned on the previous page?

Check the water block as I've seen folks post about it. The plates were found in the wrong position in other cases, even missing in one instance.

I checked the plate yesterday when i change the TIM and it's in place just like the pic that Waza posted.

Make sure you're using the inlet on your block and not the outlet. CPUs are very sensative as you're pushing the warm flow to the CPU from the GPU's. I am sure your temps would drop some if you had the CPU first in line and than the GPUs. If you do decide for the hell of it to add more heat surface, add more than 120 if you're going to hang something outside.

I just have to wait and see. Might even remount the CPU block a 5th time
From res/pump to the first GPU -> second GPU -> IN at the block -> rad -> res/pump
That's how the loop looks like.

You never told us what RPM your fans were. Have you benchmarked at different fan speeds to see which gives you the optimal performance?

The rad fans 6x140mm Yate Loon - D14SL-12 are running at max "1000rpm" and the pump is still on max since i bleeded the loop.

Also, I've noticed your tubing is already starting to cloud. What liquid and biocide are you using?

I bought MasterKleer tubing and they where slightly tinten when i recieved it, and all review, how to and guide iv'e read says the same thing about MasterKleer, (turns opaque fairly quickly)

That said. I run my loop just with distilled water + a additive "a no name brand" similar to Feser Base.

Before that i cleaned my loop with distilled water and Cleaning Agent Sysclean HPD

But yesterday i noticed that my water has turned slightly blue/black. Don't know why, so i should maybe change the water even if it just been there for some days.