• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

Sunbeam Rheobus (mini review and install guide)

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.

Enablingwolf

Senior Member overclocking at t
Joined
Jun 14, 2004
This is a guide to install the Sunbeam fan cotroller and usage of it. While not scientific, I wanted to give some insight on how it installs and other tidbits for those who might consider using this controller.


Uses and thoughts.
This unit is a simple way of controlling the fan speeds. It is simple to install and use for those who want control over the noise levels of fans and fine tune each fans voltage/speed.
The front LEDs are rather bright and do a great job in showing if the fan is 0V-12V. If the one dial is to the off position. The LEDs will not light up. If it is 1v-7V it will show red. Beyond the 7V mark, the LED will turn blue.
This controller is really good for more then one fan on a channel. So if you have more then four fans. You have an option to use one channel for multiple fans up to a load of 20 watts. Or one high speed fan.


There is a few drawbacks on this controller. Which are not so bad, where you would not want this unit.
As mentioned above. The LEDs are bright. This is easy to correct if you find the need.
Another drawback. Fan wires (also knows as fan tails) are not usually long enough to reach to the controller. So some planning might be a wise move. There is an easy fix for this also. Extensions for the fan tails. For most, an extension of 12 inches should be more then adequate. The average fan tail is 12 inches, with a 12 inch extension on it. You will have a 24 inch tail.
Final drawback. While not an issue really of the controller itself. I thought it was a good idea to include this. The issue is. If you set the voltage to low on a fan. Some fans may not start. (Some model fans) even make a clicking noise. It's easy to correct, by replacing the fans with models that are more conductive to lower voltages. Or simply turn the dial until it works as it should.
  • Here is some links to correct the brightness issue with the LEDs. (Thank you Navig :D)
Necessary reading for this product--resistor mod for them bright leds!

Notice the balanced brightness of Navig's leds--10k ohm resistor.


Now the basics of what this this is about now out of the way. Lets show how to install it.
This thing is really easy to get in. If you can install a ROM, this will be just as easy. I am including this part to show those who might consider this device, but want to see the installation of it prior to purchase.

The Sunbeam Rheobus, is designed to fit in an empty 5.25 bay and can be custom mounted if you so desire. While I am it, relay some tricks to make it easier. It is a straight forward design and handles up to 20 watts on each of its four channels.
I happen to be using the silver version. It also comes in a black faced version. If you need another color other then Silver or black. It is not hard to customize the mounting for it. It is a very simple and easy unit to work with.


Tools you will need: Phillips screwdriver and two hands.


Time to do the install: Depending on how complex your wiring is. If your just hooking up some fans, with no complex wire routing or custom mounting. This can be installed in under 15-20 minutes.


Price range: $10.00 - $30.00
(I found Jab-Tech usually has the best prices.)


Possible extra purchases: Extensions for your fan tails. Maybe splitters if your going to share a channel amongst a couple of fans.


Before you order. You should probably do some checking on how long your fan leads will be.
This is easy to do, and require you find out how much of a wire lead your going to be using. If the need is actually there. Pick up an extension or two while your purchasing. Even create one for yourself. It saves time, shipping costs and headaches doing this prior to buying the unit.


Finding out if you need extensions or not and how long. All you do is unplug the fan. Or use where the fan will be mounted.
Run a piece or wire or string from that spot to the (projected) drive bay. Leave a little extra tare for movement and adjusting to accomodate routing wires. If your going to be using existing fans. It is just as easy to unplug the fan, then tie a bit of string on the end. Route it as you would, (the wire) once it is ready to plug into the Sunbeam. You will then be able to measure the sizes you need. If you do not want to unplug the fan. Just got from the fan body to the final location as you would be routing it. Subtract 12 inches form the total length of the run. Or the length of the fan tail you will be targeting. This applies for planning with no fans attached also.


Most fan tails are 12 inches. Some manufacturers supply longer, some shorter. 12 inches is really a common wire length, from the body to the tip of the tail. With a 12 inch extension on that. You can reach to the fan controller with just about any size case. With complex wiring, you may need longer lengths. That is why measuring before hand is a good idea.


Now that you have all the parts, and layout paths for the fan wires. Lets get to inserting some pictures and installing this thing.


First thing you notice. It has 5 plug sockets in the rear of the device.
  • The 4, 3 pin fan tails correspond to the rheostat in front. The molex powers all of it.
inside2.jpg
  • With wires hooked up.
inside5.jpg



For sake of simplicity. I am not going to mention if it is easier to install the wires first or after you screw it in the bay. That is your call. Since each computer has its own configuration. Though I personally find it easier to do it outside the case prior to installing it and screwing it in.
  • The Sunbeam screwed in. You can see the position hash on the dials here.
front.jpg
  • Now here is where a little trick I figured out comes in. Do not cinch it down tightly. Leave some play in the screws. I usually only insert them about halfway. I am able top hold it, as I screw it down on the opposite side. With the screw head being a point to grab onto. Otherwise, your going to be reaching into the case at an odd angle or grabbing the knobs as leverage.
front6.jpg
  • Ok now it is in and ready. It should look like this. Or near abouts.
front2.jpg



Now is the time to make sure the rheostats are on and full power. A simple of a design as this is. All you do is twist the knob to the right. Nothing special or tricky about the way it works. It even allows adjustments prior to using the computer. Unlike software or LED type controllers. If part of the controller malfunctions. You are not hobbled.
  • Here is it all lit up in use.
front7.jpg




Conclusions


This is a great piece of hardware to lower fan noise and keep each fan or multiple fans in a desired range. If your looking to lower the sound output of your fans. This would be a good purchase. All you really need is an open front drive bay and some time to install it. I have used this controller for about a year now without any hassle or issues.
 
Last edited:
I own one of these, and I have to agree with EnablingWolf. Works great, simple to install, and simple to operate. I keep my PC in my bedroom, so I have to turn down my louder fans at night.

For the bright LEDs, I just put a tiny strip of black electric tape over them, but I have a black case, and the black version of this unit, so you can barely tell it's there.

The issue with fans not starting at low voltages can be solved by turning the fan all the way up, then dialing it back down to the speed you want. This works for all the fans I have, but may not work for all I guess.

I can't remember if I got mine from jab-tech or xoxide, but it was $12 when I got it. Excellent buy.
 
I also have this controller in both my own case and my daughter's case and they work very well.

If the led's are too bright for your tastes, there are a couple of tricks to tone down the brightness. You can carefully push the led's about half way back into the face plate and that will cut down on the light, and/or you can use a sharpie or marks-a-lot to darken the lens....which will give a muted, softer glow to the light.

The led's can also be turned around to where the lower voltages show up blue and then turn red at the upper voltages.
 
Good review. I've owned a Sunbeam for a few months now, as I'm in the UK not many places sell them. I got mine from eBay UK for £7 inc. shipping ;)

I've soldered resistors to the middle ground pin on each LED as they were insanely bright before, they lit up my whole room at night and stopped me from sleeping :p

I've also marked on where 5v is on the dial, I just put a small black mark where the white mark is on each dial.

I dont know how I got by without one before, running my AC64 at 7v is almost silent, and causes only a few more C in temps.

The loudest part in my PC when I'm idling is the hard drives :)
 
Ooh, so that's what has been on people's cases, if my fan's prove to be too loud I may look into this, thanks a lot.
 
Hazaro said:
Ooh, so that's what has been on people's cases, if my fan's prove to be too loud I may look into this, thanks a lot.

Your welcome bro. It is folks like you that are the target of this. :D


One advantage of having the controller. You can turn uneeded fans all the way off. A fan that is off, is truely silent. Also, if you get higher cfm fans. You can turn them down. Then if you need the extra, it is there for you. Controlling the fans is not just about how much noise they put out. [humor]Otherwise it would be called a fan quieter thingamajigger.. o_O[/humor] Plus it just looks to on the front of a case.

Sunbeam also has another controller called the Sunbeam Windmill. It is garbage. The Windmill does look cool. But it is a PoS. Mine died really fast and gave me nothing but issues. Why I went with Rheosats for my controlling needs. Digital fan controllers look good, but are limited in how you can use them.
 
Not to steal your thread, but I'll put a second word about this product.

It's been around forever (notice the linked article is dated 2004), and it will be around forever (knock on wood) because:

1) It does what it does flawlessly--controls fans.
0-11.8v by potentiometer. And it can handle all but the most extreme fans. If you look at the specs of a lot of other fan controllers they use PWM circuits (which can cause clicking in some fans), and I've never seen another fan controller that can handle 20w per channel (short of sidewinder custom jobs).

2) Its low tech. No LCDs or complicated components to break. Everything is replaceable and modifyable.

3) Dirt cheap.
 
Your not stealing the thread. :D

This thing has stood the test of time. It is a durable unit that can move along with any upgrade.

Another point. There is some nifty software/hardware solutions out there. You become locked into a certian OS or software package. This needs no OS nor power to make adjustments to it.
 
Back