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6420 OC - Temps/Voltage Feedback

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Coach3K

Registered
Joined
Dec 21, 2006
Location
Iowa
I'd like some feedback on my temps/voltages on this OC.

I'm in the process of tuning/testing/benching the setup listed in my sig, with the core components of an E6420, P5K Deluxe Wifi, and Ballistix PC2-8500 Ram (4x1GB) in an Antec 900.

Cooling is Ultra 120 Extreme with 2xScythe F in push/pull config plus other various fans in the case (SilenX 90 CFM blowing out on back slot). For testing/benching purposes, had all fans set to max speeds. Bios version: 0501 with some commonly tweaked items enabled/disabled to help with stability (Spread Spectrum, etc.) but non-Vcore/DRAM voltages left on Auto.

Before I got the U120X, stock speed (2.13) and stock HSF idle temps were about 33 c and 44 under load.

I started out a little disorganized, but jumped right in and after a little random tweaking hit a tentative target of 3.6 @ 8x450 with 5:6 (PC1080). It was stable for at least 30 minutes in Orthos and ran 3DMark06 fine (I know that doesn't mean it's really stable, but it's a start). Temps were over 60 c though and it took 1.55 volts Vcore to get there. I'm not sure I want to run 24/7 that hot, even if it ends up running Orthos/Memtest stable for a few days, and want to find a good heat/performance balance.

Before bed, I found what seemed like a good balance at 3.52 (8x440) at 1.45 vcore and running the RAM at 4:5 for 1100 mzh. Orthos ran stable overnight and Memtest86+ ran 3 passes with no errors, but temps topped out at 60c under load.

So I went back and started a more systematic approach, removing the DRAM as a limiting variable by going 1:1 and setting the DRAM voltage to 2.2 so I knew that wouldn't be a likely limiter for a long time up the FSB testing chain.

I started at 375 FSB and started working my way up. I'm planning to get a stable clock first and then adjust RAM timings later then compare OC'ing RAM vs. 1:1 with tighter timings. Following are some results I've noted so far and I'm curious if these temps at these higher voltages look right or if I may need to look into changing some other settings for a solid base clock at a reasonable temp. Unless noted, these are the minimum settings it took to load Windows and run a quick Orthos test for 5 minutes:

Speed - FSB --- Vcore/DRAM - Idle - Load
2.13 -- 8x266 - Auto/Auto --- 27 - 36
3.00 -- 8x375 - 1.30/2.20 --- 30 - 41
3.20 -- 8x400 - 1.30/2.20 --- 31 - 43
3.40 -- 8x425 - 1.35/2.20 --- 33 - 48
3.52 -- 8x440 - 1.45/2.20 --- 34 - 60 *(4:5 - 1100)
3.60 -- 8x450 - 1.55/2.20 --- 36 - 64 ** (5:6 - 1080)

* Orthos stable 8 hours and Memtest86+ stable for 4 hours (manually stopped both - no failures).
** Only 30 minute run of Orthos - fully stable for that time (manually stopped).

I'm concerned about the FSB increases above 425 resulting in such high voltage requirements and the higher temps.

Are these within expected ranges, or should I look at the seating of the HS? I used about a full rice grain worth of AS5 centered on the IHS and let the HS spread it on contact.

I'll be "OK" with running @3.4 for everyday use, but if I can push it a bit more up to 3.6 with better heat results, I'd be happier. I'm fine with changing multis, but would the higher FSB actually require more vcore and result in a higher NBridge core/possible instability? I can post some pics of my BIOS settings later at home, too.

Is there something I may be missing?
 
Ambient temp seems to be 78-80'ish F, so 25-27C.

Backup Prescott puts out a LOT of heat. :)

I'll move the temp gauge over closer to the computer this evening during testing so I have a more accurate reading in the future.
 
3.52 -- 8x440 - 1.45/2.20 --- 34 - 60 *(4:5 - 1100)

I like this setting. I prefer staying at 60 degrees full load or less and 1.45v is fine for long term. RAM is running very fast. Looks good. Perhaps try improving case ventilation a little if possible.
 
The area behind my bottom HD bay is an absolute mess of SATA and power cables. Could be limiting some airflow.

One other thing I was thinking about earlier was that I may not be feeding a good volume of air into my case.

The Antec 650W has a separate line labled for fans that are part of some kind of "intelligent power management" system supposedly built into the PSU. That line is what I have the two front Tri-Speed fans hooked up to.

I seem to remember that on my old case, this line didn't seem to give the same amount of power to fans as if I were using molex connectors straight from the PSU, even under load when that power management system shouldn't be limiting things.

I'll connect those to a regular power line and see if the fans turn up a bit and push more cooler air in. Even if they aren't pushing a lot of air in, I'd think the top 200mm and SilenX in the back running full speed would be pulling a good bit of air through the side vent, so I dunno.
 
Those "fan only" connectors will definitely reduce the fan speed. They are connected to a thermister in the PSU and are temp dependent. I accidently connected my radiator fans (watercooling) to those connectors once and had a heck of a time figuring out why my temps were warm. Switched the fans to regular molex connectors and temps dropped significantly. Next, clean up and organize the wires. Cutting out the perforations where the case fans mount helps (but remove motherboard and drives first). Cut a blowhole in the side case cover and mount an intake fan (if the case don't already have one). Swap out the slow case fans for higher CFM fans. Lots you can do.
 
Sam__ said:
make some more fan holes!!!! mod it to the extreme...

heres my fan mod....might help.
http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=518532

whats the cfm rating of the SilenX??

I saw the mod the other day. Very nice - I don't have the required old-school drill, though! :)

Actually, the 900 already has a huge fan on top, and nowhere to really add anything there. I'm considering the possibility of somehow installing a smaller fan on the side, since the 120mm bracket built-in won't let a fan be installed normally with the U120X.

The SilenX on the back is 90CFM. Yeah, it's a little loud when all the way up, but I'm pushing the system now for stress purposes and will use the controller to to crank it down to manageable levels later.
 
batboy said:
Those "fan only" connectors will definitely reduce the fan speed. They are connected to a thermister in the PSU and are temp dependent. I accidently connected my radiator fans (watercooling) to those connectors once and had a heck of a time figuring out why my temps were warm. Switched the fans to regular molex connectors and temps dropped significantly. Next, clean up and organize the wires. Cutting out the perforations where the case fans mount helps (but remove motherboard and drives first). Cut a blowhole in the side case cover and mount an intake fan (if the case don't already have one). Swap out the slow case fans for higher CFM fans. Lots you can do.

Hooking them up to molex's is definitely job #1 here in about 20 minutes when I get home.

The 900's got the 2 intake fans on the front (and the Tri-speed fans seem to push a lot of air when hooked up right and on High) plus a port on the side for an optional fan, heatsink size allowing, along with a top 200mm and rear 120mm exhaust.

I have a shipment coming in tomorrow with some sheathings and zip ties to help with the crap wire management I have now - I may post a pic later showing the jumble of nastiness in there right now. :)

If maxing stable at 55-58c under load is reasonable, I'll just do whatever it takes to tweak to hit that point, and hope I can get 3.5-3.6 out of it while doing it.

Thanks!
 
Sounds like you have a good game plan.

Those Antec 900 cases have pretty good ventilation. If you really want to mount a 120mm in the side, you could find a slim one or even mount it on the outside of the side cover vent blowing in. With two front 120mm intakes, one rear exhaust and the top fan, you will probably be ok.
 
Well, I hooked the two front Tri-speed Antec fans up to molex connectors and now I can tell they are actually ON. Before, I had to really look and feel to see if they were pulling anything in. So, mission accomplished there. Unclear if it's done anything to temps yet, but we'll see as the testing goes on.

As for modding and the side-fan/Ultra 120 Extreme problem goes...well, I've posted something elsewhere showing a similar picture of the problem, but in this picture, I installed the fan on the panel and pushed it up against the HS to show how they need to occupy the same space (the panel would still need to be pushed in about another 3/4 of an inch to actually close):

Fan-HS.JPG

Soo....I just decided to use some twist ties to hang the fan off the bottom of the U120X and just deal with the ghetto-looking mod. :) I'll use some zipties or end up modding it directly to the case in that orientation later. You can also see here what I meant about my wire management!

HangFan.JPG

You can see here the fan doesn't line up well with the hole it's supposed to fit in, but I'll just deal with it. This way I have some more active cooling on both the GPU and Northbridge.

Misaligned.JPG

Anyway - drifting more towards case mod discussion so I'll just get busy working this CPU out. Thanks for the feedback everyone!
 
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Just thought I'd mention something concerning not using the mobo "fan" headers -

Yes, plugging right into a PSU 4P fan definitely gets you full voltage (unless a thermally regulated 4P molex PSU "fan" line - Antec had/has those), of course. But unless your fans or water pumps have a separate RPM signal line, you then have to live w/o the ability to monitor their RPM.

Some mobo's BIOS allow you to disable the mobo's fan headers' thermal control, and allow them to run full voltage continuously. Every Asus mobo I've had over the last few years, thru the current P5B-Dlx in my sig, has that ability. So on Your P5K it may be as simple as disabling "Q fan" in your BIOS.

Just a thought I'd mention this if you'd like to keep the fan monitoring abilities of your mobo.

I'm personally a "monitor everything" junkie, myself. ;)

~ Strat ~
 
Good point, and I appreciate that - I actually have none of my fans hooked up to my motherboard at all right now and I have all the management disabled in Bios.

Maybe at some point I'll decide to change that, but I've got the RAM cooler, 2xScythe on the HS, and exhaust SilenX all hooked up to my fan controller, plus I can use the built-in controllers on the 3xAntecs and 200mm fan on top.

I'll just keep an eye out for any failures.
 
Just wanted to throw what mines doing in here. I am running my 6420 at 3.6 with vcore 1.425V and dram 2.1V 1:1 It was 12 hours orthos stable and i stopped it. Ambient is 70-80 ish depending on the time of the day. THe little ac window unit doesn't work well mid afternoon. lol

Any way the temps i was getting for my cpu idle was about 28 and at load 45 -52ish c
I only am blowing through the Ultra 120x.
 
Good for comparison, Blankstar. That's almost exactly what I'm hoping for.

I may contact you to compare BIOS settings if I have any trouble getting there.

By the way - when I refer to my CPU temps, I'm referring to the hottest of "Core 0" and "Core 1" as reported by Core Temp 0.95 and Speedfan, not the "CPU" temp on Speedfan.

I assume the direct core temps are what everyone else is referring to, right?
 
Yah im pulling mine from Core temp .94 I have vista and need to F8 and disable the Driver signature thing to let it work. .95 went into an infinite loop when i tried opening it and didnt disable driver signature and didnt know the F8 trick so i had never bothered to get it again. If there is any difference ill get it and get a load temp for ya.

But anway yes i am pulling core temperatures and generally my cores are within 1C of each other

More than happy to help :) i dont have 4g of mem tho:( lol a future upgrade
 
I had the same trouble with .95 looping endlessly, and .94 would give the same error .95 was, but only once.

I couldn't get F8 or the command line tricks to disable the signed driver requirement, but I found a program that would do it:

Vista Boot Pro 3.3

It has an option in the Advanced menu to "Disable Vista Driver Signing" for Vista 64.

When I start it, I actually get an OS Detection Error box popup that says it can't detect Vista on my machine, but when I click that and go into the program, it sees the OS just fine (you have to choose "Microsoft Windows Vista" from the dropdown menu in the Advanced page to adjust anything).

Hope that helps - it actually has allowed me to install a few programs I was having problems with.
 
NGL_BrSH said:
what voltage are you running your northbridge at? just out of curiosity.. 1.6+ ?

In my testing that is listed above I was leaving all those settings at AUTO (CPU Voltage Reference, CPU PLL Voltage, FSB Termination Voltage, North Bridge Voltage and Reference, and South Bridge Voltage).

Tonight I kept with the AUTO settings above and I've been going up the chain from 375 FSB to 450 FSB in 25 MHz increments tweaking just a little - only thing I've done aside from Vcore and FSB changes has been changing NB Voltage from AUTO to 1.40 when I failed to boot to 3.60 at 1.375 Vcore.

That failed to boot so I upped Vcore to 1.400 and still didn't boot. Moved NB Voltage back to AUTO and it booted to Windows, with idle temps of 33c, but then randomly BSOD'd with no load.

I just finished my latest adjustment of keeping AUTO on all those secondary voltages, but upping Vcore to 1.4250. Idle temp of 34c, but Orthos errored at 2 1/2 minutes and had topped out at 55c on Core 0 at time of failure.

About ready to boot to try the next Vcore increase and start messing around with manually setting those secondary voltage settings.

I assume that 1.6+ is bad, given that I've seen most people listing 1.40?
 
Well, I hit another point where just FSB and Vcore increases weren't doing the trick.

I basically upped the FSB to 450 with Vcore at 1.450 and left the DRAM voltage at 2.2. All the secondary voltages were left on AUTO. Got into Windows. Idle at 35c and Orthos ran about 3 minutes then stopped with temps at 57c.

I tried a few adjustments - manually changing NB Voltage to 1.40, manually setting all of those secondary voltages to match various BIOS settings I've seen, but at 1.45 vcore, 450 FSB keeps resulting in Orthos errors.

Part of the problem is, there are so many combinations of settings with CPU voltage reference, NBridge voltage, etc., that I don't know what setting being changed could be causing a problem - and if I try to isolate by JUST changing one, I could still fail because one setting requires another to be manually adjusted.

I downclocked it to 3.4 again and it ran cooler and stable overnight on a 4-hour run of OCCT, but that extra 200mhz is calling my name! I'll just look around for more BIOS configs that seem to work for others. Expect a PM Blankstar. :)
 
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