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Don't physically cut any bridges!!!

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cr@p.

I had a screwdriver slip when installing one of the CPU's after popping the bridges and now the board won't boot with the un-chipped CPU. At best I have two screwed up Durons and at worst I have two screwed up Durons and a toasted K7D.

cr@p.
 
Update....

Pulled my XP chip out of the KT7A box. good news is, the board isn't dead. Phew. I wonder if something I did to those bridges screwed up the CPU's. Come to think of it... I did get a spark once when I accidentally touched dots from two different bridges (as in one dot from a pair in the L3 to another dot in a different L3 pairing). That's probably what did it....

Curses!! This would be the greatest excuse to get some XP's but unfortunately I just ordered an Audigy Platinum and can't really afford two XP's right now.

Oh well. I'll order some more Durons tomorrow.

Lesson to be learned: be VERY careful which bridges you're blowing when you do this. I'm going to do it under a microscope next time.
 
OUCH! MAN!

I feel your pain....I killed my 133 bus (actually anything over 119) by trying to enable a 14X multi. I must have cut something too deeply......
 
jesus man....SH!! FU@@ DA@@ AS$ monkey!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

jesus F'ing christ, I just melted a hole in my 1300. luckily it was already dead. I tried it on my athlon 800 and I couldn't get the bridges to burn right, one end would always burn and not the middle, so I'm waiting to finish that until I can refine my technique.

anyway, a funny thing just happened now. I tried to burn through the l7 bridges on my dead 1300 just to practice, and it wouldn't work with a 9v, so like the moron I am, I hooked the tacks and wires up to the 110v outlet and tried it. :D whoooooweeeeeee!! that was a d@mn big spark dudes!!! I melted a little pit in my chip and there is a carbon scored blast mark around the bridge......but it broke the bridge all right. :p

now, to do this to my xp....

j/k ;)

EDIT:

it even took out the bridge beside it :D.
 
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Let's find someone to try this with a 220V outlet... lol. Might take the entire CPU with it.... :)

(Just kidding of course. PLEASE DO NOT DO THIS)
 
:D:D:D:D anyway, back on topic, I used two tacks with wires soldered onto the base (metal). the wires then went to the battery. The only thing I can think of is to get longer, pointier (is that even a word?) sharp thingies for the shorting implements.

I got one to work right, it glowed orange, I adjusted a smidge, it glowed white, then I adjusted once more and poof!! it sparked out. so it does work.....just like a lot of people have said....jeez, i need to go to bed.

It was the AOL cds man, i swear!!

really, I think it wasn't getting enough juice, cuz most of them would jusat sit there no matter what I did (no they weren't open), so I'm gonna try it with either the 12v rail of a psu or a 12v battery.
 
M@€$†®Ö™ said:
ok so what L3 bridge do you pop on a T-bird ? Which L3 to get the high 8x multiplier instead of the low ? I looked at the linkage Pinky provided and got cofused :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

The L1s unlock the Tbirds and Palomino XPs. The L3s control the multis on the Thoroughbreds (T BRED) processors. That's probably the confusion.

Damn acronyms fail us again!
 
I just tried this on a dead Palomino. Didn't work. The 9V battery has 8.5 volts. Maybe that's not enough juice?

BTW, Sickboy, you know that you have to manipulate more than just the L1's on Durons, right? You have to mess with the L3's and L4's, too. Check this link - http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/d070301.html
 
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Hmm. According to that article, all you need is 5V. It was referring to Durons, though. Maybe XP Palomino's are different somehow. Also, in that article, they mention some resistors. Do I need to be using resistors, somewhere?
 
*UPDATE* Evidently, it's a amperage issue, not a voltage one. I just tried it again, this time, wiring into the 5V leads on an old AT PSU (it's nice to have a power switch.)

It worked perfectly. Kinda scared me, the first time, when I saw sparks! I unlocked all of the L3, L4, and L10 bridges on an old, dead Palomino.

If I get real gutsy, I may try it on a Duron, next.
 
*SUCCESS*

I was too antsy, so I went ahead and tried this on my XP1700 T-bred B. First, I just shorted the last L3 bridge. Booted up... nothing. Ok, I figured I had to hard code a certain multiplier in, so I looked at the T-bred painting guide here and saw that if I broke the 3rd L3 and the last L3, then I would be coded for 13X. I took off the CPU, shorted the third L3, put the CPU back in and VOILA, 13X! I don't have any options for multipliers in the BIOS, except 5.5-12.5 (if I choose any of these multipliers, the system won't boot.) This may be an issue with my motherboard, or it may be a limitation of the procedure.

I'm so happy I didn't kill my CPU! I'm even more happy because I may be able to overclock this chip higher. My Shuttle AK35GT2 is a KT333 chipset board, but seems to be missing the 1/5th divider, so I can't run it much faster than 155 FSB, or my hard drive corrupts. It won't even post at 166 FSB, with lowered multiplier.

Anyway, bottom line is, YES, you can blow the bridges on T-breds using 5V supplied from a PSU as explained here - http://www.overclockers.com/tips726/.

I tried with a 9V battery and it wouldn't work. PSU 5V did the trick, though. *EDIT* I used an old AT PSU, BTW. I find it a lot easier to work with a PSU with a power switch, and if I killed the PSU, I wasn't out of anything.

I have not tried this on XP1800's or on my K7D Master, yet. Also, be aware that blowing only the last L3 bridge does not seem to open all of the multipliers above 12.5, at least not on my Shuttle AK35GT2.

Many thanks to pctuner@amd for turning me on to this procedure.
 
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*UPDATE*

My modified XP1700 T-bred B will not run in my MSI K7D Master-L at all. Won't even post. Put it back in the Shuttle system and it runs fine. I'll try modding one of my XP1800 T-bred A's tomorrow and see how they work. If they don't work, then I'll have to mod them back.
 
Hey Pctuner ,which bridge? and will it work on palominos,
as well?
More info pleeze!
I have an 1800+ Pally locked for now....
 
Don't use 9v battery!! I used one and it only burnt half the bridge and led to the destruction of my 800 athlon. use the either 5v or 12v rail off your psu. I used an AT one cuz of the switch. It works soo good with a psu.

I can't get the pencil trick to work though, someone help? :eh?:
 
LittlePiggie said:
Don't use 9v battery!! I used one and it only burnt half the bridge and led to the destruction of my 800 athlon. use the either 5v or 12v rail off your psu. I used an AT one cuz of the switch. It works soo good with a psu.

I can't get the pencil trick to work though, someone help? :eh?:
Click to expand...

What kind of CPU are you trying the pencil trick on? It only works on Durons and Athlons, but not XP's. Sometimes it takes several strokes back and forth across a bridge to make good contact.
 
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