- Joined
- Jun 12, 2011
In high humidity environment cover open or close? or don't matter?
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In high humidity environment cover open or close?
- Thread starter gray_mouse
- Start date
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2008
Cover? Are you talking about the case side panel?
Really, it doesn't matter because the humidity is in the air. Your intake fans will pull the humid air into the case anyway. As long as you don't have something with its surface temp below the dew point, then don't worry. If there's something like a water chiller cooling your system, then you could have tubing or blocks with a surface temp less than the dew point, which could easily cause condensation in a really humid environment.
What''s your humidity like?
Really, it doesn't matter because the humidity is in the air. Your intake fans will pull the humid air into the case anyway. As long as you don't have something with its surface temp below the dew point, then don't worry. If there's something like a water chiller cooling your system, then you could have tubing or blocks with a surface temp less than the dew point, which could easily cause condensation in a really humid environment.
What''s your humidity like?
OP
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2011
- Thread Starter
- #3
Client's machine. Apperently in 2 years of life, their comp had to be repaired 3 or 4 times, plus this time with my repair. All issues are due to oxidation of contacts due to high humidity. They live near river, and inside their room it's really humid. I wouldn't live in a place like that.
So basically, the envoronment where comp is at makes contacts oxidate, loose electrical connection, end result for this time for example comp not booting - BIOS chip contacts were oxidated and I had to remove it and reinsert it to start the machine.
They are poor, and live in a really small room, with real high humidity. Buying dehumidifier I think wouldn't be an option. So I want some sort of solution that will minimize future repairs.
So leaving cover open would not help. How about leaving comp running all the time, will that help?
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2008
A dehumidifier or a window unit AC would reduce humidity, but like you said that doesn't seem like an option. Hmm, I don't see how leaving the machine on would help much. What were your thoughts on that?
You could use silicone conformal on the motherboard and any PCIe cards being used, that will prevent moisture from reaching contacts. You just have to tape off important, in use connectors. Benchers using sub-zero cooling conformal their parts to prevent condensation from getting to the components.
You could use silicone conformal on the motherboard and any PCIe cards being used, that will prevent moisture from reaching contacts. You just have to tape off important, in use connectors. Benchers using sub-zero cooling conformal their parts to prevent condensation from getting to the components.
would have to test this first, but the thin silicon spray of the solventy kind (not the envirmental kind), would put a thin layer of oily stuff over the whole surfaces quickly, just like you would do for outside exposed metals and all. it will get stickey and dust will stick to it, but being thin its not to bad. we use that on a lot of stuff, where we used to use things like WD-40, it is much thinner, and still offers up the protection from oxidations.
done correct with 99% of the mix leaving, and only a very thin layer, would coat. Must 100% dry before applying power, and must be done outside, or in "you'll never ventilate it enough" area. and its flamable toxic , and leaves thin oils , that of course have the issues oils would. the solvent itself will reek havoc with plastics, or anything that a solvent would effect.
this worked when i stripped off the clear coat off of aluminum and copper, and didnt want white or green after
and i didnt want it greacy or oiley acting.
and it is fast and easy, cause i am lazy.
i have used it before on electronics. because after using a "flux cleaner" or some evil cleaning solvent, all these tiny connections are left unprotected.
but i couldnt recommend that somone else do it without testing, because it is for my own uses.
there are slso many electronics sprays that are "cleaner Lubricant" i am pretty sure its the same idea, and of course they used these "tuner cleaner" (lubricant) like sprays since rotary controls on televisions. so sombody has been spraying that stuff around electronics for years.
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done correct with 99% of the mix leaving, and only a very thin layer, would coat. Must 100% dry before applying power, and must be done outside, or in "you'll never ventilate it enough" area. and its flamable toxic , and leaves thin oils , that of course have the issues oils would. the solvent itself will reek havoc with plastics, or anything that a solvent would effect.
this worked when i stripped off the clear coat off of aluminum and copper, and didnt want white or green after
and i didnt want it greacy or oiley acting.and it is fast and easy, cause i am lazy.
i have used it before on electronics. because after using a "flux cleaner" or some evil cleaning solvent, all these tiny connections are left unprotected.
but i couldnt recommend that somone else do it without testing, because it is for my own uses.
there are slso many electronics sprays that are "cleaner Lubricant" i am pretty sure its the same idea, and of course they used these "tuner cleaner" (lubricant) like sprays since rotary controls on televisions. so sombody has been spraying that stuff around electronics for years.
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so it is fully curing. i should switch. which one for the least ammount of insulation?
adding: can you just spray it on card contact areas like PCI slots without having contact problems?
i would love to get something that cures in spray that is very thin (assuming i get it on right)
and cured, for coating some things that are outside here, like the screws on my solar pannel, tools, hinges that kind of thing.
and something to recoat heat syncs thinly , I overcleaned a few with ammonia , and the coating falls of , oops.
is there a brand and name of a coating that that would go on real thin and cure solid without baking or UV, that you used?
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and cured, for coating some things that are outside here, like the screws on my solar pannel, tools, hinges that kind of thing.
and something to recoat heat syncs thinly , I overcleaned a few with ammonia , and the coating falls of , oops.
is there a brand and name of a coating that that would go on real thin and cure solid without baking or UV, that you used?
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- Joined
- Aug 11, 2008
That's one of the areas that would need taping off before spraying. Something like dielectric grease can be put in the PCI slots, RAM slots, and CPU socket.
If you want to insulate the entire system, then you'll need to strip all heatsinks from the mobo, RAM, and AGP/PCI cards. Then, tape off any connectors that will need contact, like PCI connector, SLI connector, 24pin power, CPU power, fan headers, USB headers, front panel, RAM contacts, CPU socket, etc. Once everything that is needed is taped, spray a few coats of conformal. Once it dries, you'll need to remove conformal from the top of chips that make contact with a heatsink like RAM chips, vRAM chips, mosfets, GPU core, etc using something like fingernail polish remover and a q-tip. Re-install all your heatsinks, and now you're ready to go.
Conformal can be really thin when done correctly, but more doesn't hurt when it come to keeping water off your parts
Silicone conformal is good for a wide range of temps, you should give it a try to see if it fits your needs.
Absolutely ^^. A Urethane conformal will also work in this situation as this box wont see extreme temps that would make any of them crack.
(on the extreme side its ok as well, so long as the Nitro doesnt come in direct contact with it, in which it would crack).
(on the extreme side its ok as well, so long as the Nitro doesnt come in direct contact with it, in which it would crack).
