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My new pc build

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Wow that actually looks pretty cool. I think everyone here has a problem with constantly doing stuff to our PC's, I just bought more cooling supplies today myself =)

Good work! Is there any temp differences between the push pull config and just push ony your H50?
 
Wow that actually looks pretty cool. I think everyone here has a problem with constantly doing stuff to our PC's, I just bought more cooling supplies today myself =)

Good work! Is there any temp differences between the push pull config and just push ony your H50?

Yes there is but for me it just round 3 degrees. But my noctura fans suxs, going to replace all my fans in the case. But not right now ;)
Im looking into real watercooling but its a pain to find reselers in sweden.
Btw i watersanded my H50 cause it had a rough surface and i gaind 2C° :)
 
Btw i watersanded my H50 cause it had a rough surface and i gaind 2C° :)


I have been thinking about this... If I lap my CPU and the H50 I wonder what kind of gains I can get. Also I used the stock thermal paste that came with the H50 because my tube of AS5silver was very old and dried out so removing it to lap it would give me the excuse to use a real TIM. Corsair claims that the TIM they use needs no cure time, but I saw my temps get better over a few days so I do not know how much faith I would put into that statement.

What kind of idle and load CPU temps are you getting after the sanding?
 
Just a little thing to show you.
I got this nice all black case as you seen.
Was in a car store today and come a cross car stickers, and found this one:
sticker.JPG

That is awesome really finishes of the front of the case too, and looks cool!
 
Hmm I might try wet sanding my cooler that's coming soon. I'd highly recommend Cooler Master R4's if you like high CFM, relatively low dbA, and LED's. If LED's aren't your thing, then the Scythe Ultra Kaze's are pretty awesome as long as you have a fan controller and you can fit 38mm thick fans. Otherwise, Cooler Master has R4's without LED's too.
 
Hmm I might try wet sanding my cooler that's coming soon. I'd highly recommend Cooler Master R4's if you like high CFM, relatively low dbA, and LED's. If LED's aren't your thing, then the Scythe Ultra Kaze's are pretty awesome as long as you have a fan controller and you can fit 38mm thick fans. Otherwise, Cooler Master has R4's without LED's too.

Ya I have looked at those Cooler Masters. Like the blue ones.
But i found this fans, got good cfm and quiet and waterproof (incase of a leak) ;)
120mm
http://indomo.se/index.php?mode=item&id=8026&show=&mini=
140mm
http://indomo.se/index.php?mode=item&id=8025&show=&mini=

My FD fans only have like 38cfm
and my push/pull nocture54cfm
 
I have been thinking about this... If I lap my CPU and the H50 I wonder what kind of gains I can get. Also I used the stock thermal paste that came with the H50 because my tube of AS5silver was very old and dried out so removing it to lap it would give me the excuse to use a real TIM. Corsair claims that the TIM they use needs no cure time, but I saw my temps get better over a few days so I do not know how much faith I would put into that statement.

What kind of idle and load CPU temps are you getting after the sanding?

So here are the results of the Swedish jury:
Room temp 22-23C°, OC 3,8GHz, 1600MHz mems
I did check the temp before and after sanding at full load and it droped 2C°.
Bare in mind these temps showing are done just a few min after resetting the H50 on the cpu, so no burn in time.

First with push/pull noctura fans at 53cfm, in to case
idlePP.jpg

loadPP.jpg


Second push with Corsair fan, in to case
idlePo.jpg

loadPo.jpg


The highest temps were in the test at 260W on socket,
it dropes to 250W still at full load.
Idle is 130W.

Conclution:
Noctura fans sux at holding temps on the H50 down.
Sins H50 only have 1 radiator I think we need some serious pulsmodulated fans to keep the temps down.
 
You know, you could always mod your H50 to use a 120x2 rad, or even a 120x3 rad =) On a tutorial for it I saw, the poster got a significant decrease in CPU temp by modding it to 120x2. So if you don't mind modding, you could experience some good results (imagine a 2x120 with push pull :beer:).
 
You know, you could always mod your H50 to use a 120x2 rad, or even a 120x3 rad =) On a tutorial for it I saw, the poster got a significant decrease in CPU temp by modding it to 120x2. So if you don't mind modding, you could experience some good results (imagine a 2x120 with push pull :beer:).

Ya but my case is to small for that.
I was tinking of doing some serious watercooling insted.
If i get to loops one for cpu and one for gpu, but in another case.
Ill try draw some thing:
watercooler.jpg
 
Wait... soy uo want to put your rads and pumps in a seperate case next to the other one? Sounds interesting... but expensive.

Y prolly cost some, but will be fun to try.

Btw an update on the H50!
I took it apart again, and grinded some more to get a near mirror finish.
film here:
Look at the temps now!
idlePP2.jpg

loadPP2.jpg

Room temp 22C°
I gaind like 4-5C°!
 
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So i have been playing arround with that program Jolly-Swagman used for hes beautiful plexi case.
I want to make a standalone watercooling case.
Pros:
Can chose whatever pc case i want in the future.
No extra temps in the pc case.
Less risk of leaks.
Going to make quick conections for both the pc and cooler case.
2 loops for cpu and gpus.
Cons:
Not so fun to move arround.
A bit expensive but thats no biggy. (maby round 1000usd for everyting)

So fare i made this design:
wc_3d.jpg
 
Wow that made a huge difference by wet sanding. I wonder if that would work so well on my HSF I am getting. What type of sand paper did you use? And I am likin' your idea for the cooling case.
 
hey,

flip that h50s push pull setup the other way, your pump will love you for a longer time that way, and downward dips cause too much pressure on the pump as its it can handle pushing water through, but hates to suck it up though.
 
hey,

flip that h50s push pull setup the other way, your pump will love you for a longer time that way, and downward dips cause too much pressure on the pump as its it can handle pushing water through, but hates to suck it up though.

You talking about just flipping the rad over to have the inlet and outlet barbs at the top instead of the bottom?
 
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