Overclock problem

ATMINSIDE · May 8, 2014

Scarass said:
Can you say anything bad about my PSU not based on a probably an outdated review that EarthDog linked?

To be honest, I don't really know that much about PSU's, and I don't even understand half things you are saying, lol....

Can you say anything about it based on the specs I provided in that picture?

If only you could read this:
http://forum.pcekspert.com/showpost.php?p=1637696&postcount=51
Try translating it with Google Translator, but it wont be that good translated.
It is from 2010, when it was certified to have only 228w like in that review, he's saying that definitely isn't true cause he tested it with Core i7 940 and 4870X2 and it was stable!!

I will also try to test it myself with multimeter if i found out how to do so, and get myself a proper multimeter.

Just because the sticker changed doesn't mean the PSU's internals changed, LOL!
Manufacturers of terrible PSUs don't care if it blows up, they already made their money. They over-rate them all the time.

A sticker means nothing unless the PSU is from a reputable brand.
Your PSU sticker doesn't even have a UL number on it!

Silver_Pharaoh · May 8, 2014

Scarass said:
Can you say anything bad about my PSU not based on a probably an outdated review that EarthDog linked?

To be honest, I don't really know that much about PSU's, and I don't even understand half things you are saying, lol....

Can you say anything about it based on the specs I provided in that picture?

If only you could read this:
http://forum.pcekspert.com/showpost.php?p=1637696&postcount=51
Try translating it with Google Translator, but it wont be that good translated.
It is from 2010, when it was certified to have only 228w like in that review, he's saying that definitely isn't true cause he tested it with Core i7 940 and 4870X2 and it was stable!!

I will also try to test it myself with multimeter if i found out how to do so, and get myself a proper multimeter.

I can: Junk it. Looks cheap. Is is light? If so :chair:

.....

Time for a new one.

EDIT: Bobnova's sig has a nifty link to a guide to checking your PSU with a multi-meter http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=403837 :thup:

ATMINSIDE · May 8, 2014

Silver_Pharaoh said:
Is is light?

There was a company that partially filled PSUs with concrete to make them heavier, simulating quality.
Not saying you're incorrect, but I recall that vividly.

Mr.Scott · May 8, 2014

Scarass said:
Can you say anything bad about my PSU not based on a probably an outdated review that EarthDog linked?

To be honest, I don't really know that much about PSU's, and I don't even understand half things you are saying, lol....

Then you are no position to question advice from people that DO know.

EarthDog · May 8, 2014

I mean, we led the horse to water... We told him why this water is good and the other is bad..the info came from a psu reviewer(bobn) and there are still questions?!! Questions based on zero knowledge of psu's?

For pets sake man, listen for your own.good.

EarthDog · May 8, 2014

Mr.Scott said:
Then you are no position to question advice from people that DO know.

missed this.... Spot. On. (Will clean up who post when not mobile)

Silver_Pharaoh · May 8, 2014

ATMINSIDE said:
There was a company that partially filled PSUs with concrete to make them heavier, simulating quality.
Not saying you're incorrect, but I recall that vividly.

Wow.....
Just wow

Bobnova · May 8, 2014

Yeah. That was in the passive PFC days. PFC coils are heavy (they're a bunch of copper wrapped around a bunch of iron) and expensive (copper). There were a few companies that used what looked like PFC coils, but were actually concrete with a PFC-looking-wrap around it. Very classy.

Cobrabill93 · May 8, 2014

What are you memory timings set at? Try setting them manually to 1333mhz 9-9-9-25 2t 1.55v If using 4 sticks you can set it to 1.6 volts.
When you changed the motherboard, did you do a fresh clean install of windows?
Or did you put the old hard drive OS and all with the new motherboard?

(G{in}[AK)TION] · May 8, 2014

you say that you can barely overclock ANYTHING on your computer and you mentioned you are using a power supply made by LC power which is rated at "460 watts" when it could be rated 260 watts or whatever. keep using that supply, and your going to kill more of your components.

you also said that its not the power supply since you SEE its rated at 460 watts and should be able to power everything just fine. in the "review" (which i read myself) that you linked to does not hold water. and its a forum post. how am i supposed to take it seriously when he does not post pictures of its results, ripple tests, and insides? every PSU reviewer does this.

^earth dog, am i wrong when i say that?

you think its a "luxury" to buy a quality made psu for that system of yours? so was that graphics card! save yourself the burden and buy a psu thats 500 watts and is made by cougar, corsair, or seasonic. dont want to buy a quality psu? thats fine. but dont come back to us saying we did not help you!

Stevoman1979 · May 9, 2014

regardless if its a good brand or bad brand either way they can go bad

anyhow it does sound like it could be a power supply issues and as it does not seem like a better unit i would just buy a new one anyhow

a lot factors into how a power supply works it could be a good power supply that has hit its prime it could just be a bad psu

even a corsair CX would be a better choice

have you tried stressing the parts at stock and see what happens??

have you tried running memtest ?? to make sure your ram is good

it might just be your board does not do well with your cpu or do well with over clocks

but i would really tend to think its the psu since even a over clock on the video card chokes the system

ShrimpBrime · May 9, 2014

What an interesting thread. Not sure what happened with the PSU discussion, even though I find it amusing the PSU has nothing to do with the issue of overclock here.

I have Athlon II X4 620 2,6 Ghz and soon as I put it to 2,7 (FSB to 210) it crashes.

This is usually a memory divider problem. I seen this a million times with new guys. Really simple fix, already mentioned I think.... Manually set the memory up.

A couple of things you can/need to do.

1st in the bios, you want to turn off all the power saving features, such as C1E support and cool and quiet.

2nd run the system at stock and load the cpu with Prime95. You must be able to control temps. Watch the temps using HWMonitor you can check and validate your cpu/NB/HT/MEM clocks with Cpu-z Your temps need to be nice and low. If your using the stock cooler, you may have higher temps. If you report anything over 60c while using the stock cooler, then you should not overclock the processor.

After you've done step 2, come back and ask about step 3. Hopefully the PSU rage will have ended and you have an after market cooler installed with some nice low temps.

GLHF

(G{in}[AK)TION] · May 9, 2014

Stevoman1979 said:
regardless if its a good brand or bad brand either way they can go bad

the better quality brands will ALWAYS have a much lower rate of failure than the ones that have been poorly made.

ShrimpBrime said:
What an interesting thread. Not sure what happened with the PSU discussion, even though I find it amusing the PSU has nothing to do with the issue of overclock here.

you did read the OP's first post in this thread right? he says he cannot clock either his cpu or graphics card any higher than he could on his original power supply.

i would also like to point out that he sees artifacts on the screen after playing a game at stock speeds on his HD 5770.

ShrimpBrime · May 9, 2014

(G{in}[AK)TION] said:
t

you did read the OP's first post in this thread right? he says he cannot clock either his cpu or graphics card any higher than he could on his original power supply.

i would also like to point out that he sees artifacts on the screen after playing a game at stock speeds on his HD 5770.

He's using a new(er?) PSU now. So it's lower wattage and quality. For now that's what he has and all the whining about it's make and quality obviously isn't going to change it in 30 seconds. All you guys can do is mention it and see if he gets it.

The artifacts can be tested by simply stress testing the card. We all know it's not a good thing to see artifacts, but usually a cpu OC doesn't produce that, and I think I only mentioned cpu overclocking as I don't believe in killing video cards with overclocking. ATI/AMD is good for artifacting while under volted. I didn't want to discuss video card overclocking in the AMD cpu overclock section on top of that.

No big deal, just trying to help like you guys. :shrug:

Scarass · Jul 16, 2014

Hi, everyone, I haven't even seen all these posts on page 2 by now.

Now, I am having errors on a stock clocks to, some of my games crash.

I have tried stress testing, first Prime and Furmark partially and then together.
And when I would run them together I would have this error: after 4-5 hours the "donut" would be missing and the GPU usage would drop down to some 30-40%.
Anyone has any idea what this might be?

Yet, i will try to reinstall Windows because I'm running on a new motherboard right now.

EarthDog · Jul 16, 2014

Furmark really should not be used... it is considered a 'power virus' by both AMD and NVIDIA.

That said, it is likely getting too hot and throttling would be my guess.

Scarass · Jul 16, 2014

EarthDog said:
Furmark really should not be used... it is considered a 'power virus' by both AMD and NVIDIA.

That said, it is likely getting too hot and throttling would be my guess.

Okay, can you sugest some better program for stress testing?

EarthDog · Jul 16, 2014

Unigine Heaven...Unigine Valley are both very stressful on the GPU.

Scarass · Jul 19, 2014

Just crashed in Heaven after about half an hour. Heaven only, no CPU stress.

Now I'm thinking stressing CPU + integrated GPU. What should I use, should I use anything less demanding on GPU since intergrated GPU is less powerfull, no? Heaven, only maybe with lower details?

Overclock problem

ATMINSIDE

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