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1st loop, new loop, got fumes???

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DaPoets

Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Just wondering as my 1st full custom loop is "finished" my office has an obvious aroma now. Is this normal? I know it's still bleeding air a bit so should I expect it to dissipate over time?

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I'd turn it off for an hour and let it sit. If the tiny air bubbles start going away that's good. If you turn the pump on and they come back, I'd wonder if there is a chemical creating the reaction or a leak on the suction side of the pump at one of the fittings.
 
I'd turn it off for an hour and let it sit. If the tiny air bubbles start going away that's good. If you turn the pump on and they come back, I'd wonder if there is a chemical creating the reaction or a leak on the suction side of the pump at one of the fittings.

Nearly all of the air bubbles are gone now. Perhaps it just needed a bit more time.
 
My rad still smells a bit like solder when my loop gets warm (don't ask me how I wound up smelling my rad), and there was a definite aroma the first time I got it warmed up. It didn't fill the room by any means though, but it was a large room and only one rad. I don't think it has anything to do with the bubbles. It's probably difficult to bleed the loop with the different rads.
 
Did you wash the new rads before installing them? Most of the time new rads come with some impurities due to the manufacture process.
 
Did you wash the new rads before installing them? Most of the time new rads come with some impurities due to the manufacture process.

EKWB says you don't have to wash their rads but I did rinse them w/ distilled anyway and filled it and flushed it again before adding my coolant.


What coolant did you go with ?

EK-CryoFuel Solid Azure Blue (Conc. 250mL)
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cryofuel-solid-azure-blue-concentrate-250-ml

Loving the color of it.

My rad still smells a bit like solder when my loop gets warm (don't ask me how I wound up smelling my rad), and there was a definite aroma the first time I got it warmed up. It didn't fill the room by any means though, but it was a large room and only one rad. I don't think it has anything to do with the bubbles. It's probably difficult to bleed the loop with the different rads.

Yeah bleeding this thing has been a hassle to say the least. I actually may need some design help to redo the tubing, rad orientation, etc in order to make filling and draining as simple as possible. Bascially I want to just turn the drain nob and let the system completely empty.
 
Yeah bleeding this thing has been a hassle to say the least. I actually may need some design help to redo the tubing, rad orientation, etc in order to make filling and draining as simple as possible. Bascially I want to just turn the drain nob and let the system completely empty.

There are a couple ways you can do that, but some require some hard mods, your problem is on the gpu and outside rad, so i will tell you the best for that layout, you have to rotate de top rad, then you install a t adapter on the rad outside of the case and place your valve there, when you want to drain you simple flip the case so the io (back of the case) is your bottom part and open the valve, if air resistance don't let water come out you loosen one of the unused ports on the front rad.

Their are other/better ways to do this but this is the simplest and will work well.

ps: i told you that rad layout would be a pain ;)
 
There are a couple ways you can do that, but some require some hard mods, your problem is on the gpu and outside rad, so i will tell you the best for that layout, you have to rotate de top rad, then you install a t adapter on the rad outside of the case and place your valve there, when you want to drain you simple flip the case so the io (back of the case) is your bottom part and open the valve, if air resistance don't let water come out you loosen one of the unused ports on the front rad.

Their are other/better ways to do this but this is the simplest and will work well.

ps: i told you that rad layout would be a pain ;)

Actually I was thinking that way or flipping my front rad orientation so that my current drain port can be used w/ just a slight tilting. I don't feel comfortable putting pressure on the back of the case for draining since the IO is back there and the rad.

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Oh I guess I should update, the fumes came from me forgetting to take off the plastic film from BOTH SIDES of the thermal pads on the video card........ I had to open up my VEGA 64 water block, remove the plastic from the back plate and the block, put it back together (didn't have to drain the loop due to soft tubing) and the fumes went away immediately. Could have been a serious problem. Lucky for me I haven't had time to do any serious gaming yet to stress the card creating serious heat and potentially melting those plastic strips.
 
next time you redo your tubing mount your drain **** at the very bottom of your case/loop with a 1/2in barb connected to it. preferably somewhere that you can easily attach the hose. ive got mine setup in the bottom chamber of my case. it takes a couple of seconds to attach and tighten the 1/2x3/4in drain hose and 30sec to open the fill port on my res and drain the entire loop.

just checked out your other thread and saw that it looks like your drain is already at the bottom of the loop?
 
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Ahh that make sense, saw you mentioned that elsewhere. Glad it didn't end up worse.
 
next time you redo your tubing mount your drain **** at the very bottom of your case/loop with a 1/2in barb connected to it. preferably somewhere that you can easily attach the hose. ive got mine setup in the bottom chamber of my case. it takes a couple of seconds to attach and tighten the 1/2x3/4in drain hose and 30sec to open the fill port on my res and drain the entire loop.

just checked out your other thread and saw that it looks like your drain is already at the bottom of the loop?

Yeah I have the drain at the lowest level of my case right now. I just need to flip my front rad to make life a bit easier when draining.
 
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