2.4C Overclocking - Is this safe?

[ZL1]

Which HSF would you recommend? I am thinking maybe Zalman 7000 AlCu. By the way, what does IMO stand for?

XP90 would be my recommendation
go to http://www.svcompucycle.com/ they have it for 25 without fan and 30 with fan, best price at this time

IMO = in my opinion


D

PS you mentioned you have two case fans, one in and one out ? do you have space for 2 more ?

 

[SolidxSnake]

Don't tell us voltages from a software monitor. Go out and grab a $10 multimeter (I got mine from microcenter), and then check out the sticky in the cases/PSU section, and read up on how to test with a DMM.

 

[acyf]

XP90 would be my recommendation
go to http://www.svcompucycle.com/ they have it for 25 without fan and 30 with fan, best price at this time

IMO = in my opinion


D

PS you mentioned you have two case fans, one in and one out ? do you have space for 2 more ?

XP90 is great but I can't find it in most CAN stores.

Yes, one in one out, still have one front one side one back left (the back one can only fit 60mm fans so not really useful).

 

[acyf]

Don't tell us voltages from a software monitor. Go out and grab a $10 multimeter (I got mine from microcenter), and then check out the sticky in the cases/PSU section, and read up on how to test with a DMM.

Not at this time since 2.4 to 3.0 is really nothing in terms of real overclocking. I will get one of those if I plan to go further.

 

[ZL1]

XP90 is great but I can't find it in most CAN stores.

Yes, one in one out, still have one front one side one back left (the back one can only fit 60mm fans so not really useful).

well if you cant find an xp90 go with a zalman (7000 or 7700), I recommend the alcu versions as the cu versions are too heavy IMO (too much torque on the poor mobos)
I have a 7000alcu as per my sig and my load temps are 55C (adjusted)


D

 

[SolidxSnake]

well if you cant find an xp90 go with a zalman (7000 or 7700), I recommend the alcu versions as the cu versions are too heavy IMO (too much torque on the poor mobos)
I have a 7000alcu as per my sig and my load temps are 55C (adjusted)


D

First off, the copper versions are low profile. Which means they don't torque the mobo much.

And they're not THAT heavy (I move my rig around a good amount around my room with the heatsink on, thats over 800g).

But yeah, don't say just because its only a 600mhz increase, its not worth getting a DMM. The P4P and P4C series of boards have a serious problem with droop and vdimm. Luckily, I took the plunge and volt-modded my motherboard, and its taken me 10 fsb up, which means i went from 3.45ghz, to 3.6ghz, 250mhz with the droopmod/vdimm alone (before, without droopmod, and vdimm at 2.85, I could hit 230fsb, after droopmod, and vdimm at 3.21, i hit 240fsb, same timings)

either way, you should definately invest in a voltmeter, and should do the voltmods on the board. They are simple voltmods.

 

[acyf]

First off, the copper versions are low profile. Which means they don't torque the mobo much.

And they're not THAT heavy (I move my rig around a good amount around my room with the heatsink on, thats over 800g).

But yeah, don't say just because its only a 600mhz increase, its not worth getting a DMM. The P4P and P4C series of boards have a serious problem with droop and vdimm. Luckily, I took the plunge and volt-modded my motherboard, and its taken me 10 fsb up, which means i went from 3.45ghz, to 3.6ghz, 250mhz with the droopmod/vdimm alone (before, without droopmod, and vdimm at 2.85, I could hit 230fsb, after droopmod, and vdimm at 3.21, i hit 240fsb, same timings)

either way, you should definately invest in a voltmeter, and should do the voltmods on the board. They are simple voltmods.

Since you have a P4P800, can you tell me how different are the readings with the voltmeter comparing to those given by the software? by 1-2%?

 

[SolidxSnake]

Since you have a P4P800, can you tell me how different are the readings with the voltmeter comparing to those given by the software? by 1-2%?

It depends. My 5v rail is dead on, but my 3.3v and 12v is way outta whack as shown by software monitoring. And its not consistantly like this, sometimes the 12v is right, 5v outta whack, 3.3 somewhere around 3.0... its random.

But i forgot to solder a wire from a VCore coil to a molex female pin, so i'm stuck with software for that for now =(

 

[acyf]

It depends. My 5v rail is dead on, but my 3.3v and 12v is way outta whack as shown by software monitoring. And its not consistantly like this, sometimes the 12v is right, 5v outta whack, 3.3 somewhere around 3.0... its random.

But i forgot to solder a wire from a VCore coil to a molex female pin, so i'm stuck with software for that for now =(

Very interesting. Is the 12V rail the most important in terms of overclocking?

 

[SolidxSnake]

Very interesting. Is the 12V rail the most important in terms of overclocking?

Sometimes, sometimes not. For your rig, i'd say its 12v oriented. So yeah, you want a high 12v amperage.

But anyway, just invest $10 into a DMM, and check your rails. I'd suggest in getting a new PSU as well.

Also, a temp monitor couldn't hurt. I don't want to trust Asus's readings, but for the time being, i have to. I did just order a digidoc 5, so Asus's BS temp readings will harass me no longer

 

[acyf]

Sometimes, sometimes not. For your rig, i'd say its 12v oriented. So yeah, you want a high 12v amperage.

But anyway, just invest $10 into a DMM, and check your rails. I'd suggest in getting a new PSU as well.

Also, a temp monitor couldn't hurt. I don't want to trust Asus's readings, but for the time being, i have to. I did just order a digidoc 5, so Asus's BS temp readings will harass me no longer

I see. My generic 400W has 17A on 12V rail. Actually, I used a generic 350W having 12A on 12V rail on this system before and overclocked to 3.0GHz without a problem. What some cheap quality generic PSUs...LOL.

 

[SolidxSnake]

I see. My generic 400W has 17A on 12V rail. Actually, I used a generic 350W having 12A on 12V rail on this system before and overclocked to 3.0GHz without a problem. What some cheap quality generic PSUs...LOL.

My PSU that started this rig was the PSU that came with my case. My heatsink weighs more than it LOL

btw, i just sold that, and the 12v was at 13a.. rediculous.

my current PSU is rated for 18a on the 12v, and 40a on the 5v, but the 5v and 12v 'share' amperage, so if the 12v has more load than the 5v, the 5v power will shift a little towards the 12v.

 

[acyf]

My PSU that started this rig was the PSU that came with my case. My heatsink weighs more than it LOL

btw, i just sold that, and the 12v was at 13a.. rediculous.

my current PSU is rated for 18a on the 12v, and 40a on the 5v, but the 5v and 12v 'share' amperage, so if the 12v has more load than the 5v, the 5v power will shift a little towards the 12v.

One of my Aopen PSUs has two independent rails for the 12V each at 13A so I guess it's ok.

 

[johnz]

I'm a little leary of using cheap psus'. I feel that it's cheap insurance to buy a good one, then you have less worries about a psu blowing and taking components out with it. Generic psus' can work well for awhile than have catastrophic failure with little warning.

 

[acyf]

I'm a little leary of using cheap psus'. I feel that it's cheap insurance to buy a good one, then you have less worries about a psu blowing and taking components out with it. Generic psus' can work well for awhile than have catastrophic failure with little warning.

That's true but I think the stress is the on the cpu not the PSU since I didn't really increase any voltages. Anyway, I think it's a good idea for me to get a quality PSU like those from Antec and Enermax.

 

[hUMANbEATbOX]

just as a note to solidsnake,

a digidock will be worse than the motherboard's sensor. the motherboard pulls its temps from a diode iside the chip itself. this sensor should be 100% accurate, its the mobo itself that reads it incorrectly.

with the digidock, you will get a lead with a small wire sticking out most likely, and you will have to stick the wire either in your heatsink, or try to get it as close to the heatspreader as possible, making sure not to put in between the heatspreader and heatsink. either way, that is a far way off from the actual temps of the chips core, and will not be accurate at all.

i would stick with the reading in mbm5, or equivalent, and just learn to read how your computer is running. for example, i can run my 2.4c at 3.6, and while benching, my temps will shoot up to the 60's. if i turn my fans all the way down, i can see 70, but i still don't throttle.

 

[acyf]

just as a note to solidsnake,

a digidock will be worse than the motherboard's sensor. the motherboard pulls its temps from a diode iside the chip itself. this sensor should be 100% accurate, its the mobo itself that reads it incorrectly.

with the digidock, you will get a lead with a small wire sticking out most likely, and you will have to stick the wire either in your heatsink, or try to get it as close to the heatspreader as possible, making sure not to put in between the heatspreader and heatsink. either way, that is a far way off from the actual temps of the chips core, and will not be accurate at all.

i would stick with the reading in mbm5, or equivalent, and just learn to read how your computer is running. for example, i can run my 2.4c at 3.6, and while benching, my temps will shoot up to the 60's. if i turn my fans all the way down, i can see 70, but i still don't throttle.

What do you have inside your 2.4C? Is it rock stable at 3.6?

 

[hUMANbEATbOX]

not sure i understand what you mean by "what's inside".

i'm running at 3.4 right now, rock solid, prime, benches, everything.

i can bench rock solid at 3.6, prime fails though. i can prime in the winter, when i can keep my load temps around 40c (as read by MBM5), but its not that fun in my apartment with ambient temps of 5-10c.

 

[acyf]

not sure i understand what you mean by "what's inside".

i'm running at 3.4 right now, rock solid, prime, benches, everything.

i can bench rock solid at 3.6, prime fails though. i can prime in the winter, when i can keep my load temps around 40c (as read by MBM5), but its not that fun in my apartment with ambient temps of 5-10c.

What cooling are you using?

 

[hUMANbEATbOX]

cooling is in my sig, a thermalright sk800u. not anything fantastic by today's standards, but it was cheap and it was the only decent thing i could find locally. i've got a 80mm tornado on top of it on a dial so i can turn it down to acceptable noise levels. it will do 3.4 at minimum fan speeds, but for any higher, i've got to turn it up.