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Adding rad to AIO

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Dpg3456

Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2016
Hello all,

Just a quick question, didn't see anything about it in the forums or on google searches. Would a corsair H115i pump be able to push fluid through a transmission cooler? Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Al...30558803&sr=1-20&keywords=transmission+cooler

I am not worried about splicing lines since I will just use car fittings and hose clamps to seal the lines. Would the pump be strong enough to push fluid through both radiators?
 
Are you looking to add a second radiator or replace the one that came with the H115i?
What isn't working regarding the H115i where you want to add/replace a radiator?
 
No just add more heat dissipation room with a second rad. My current CPU is experiencing voltage degradation. I have a co worker that will sell me his mobo and 8350 for 20 bucks (not going to run that mobo but its comes with it). I am just planning on overclocking the living sh** out of it and don't want to have the same issues I had when I had the 9590, in which I couldn't control the heat and that's the clock speeds I'm shooting for. Not really worried about killing that chip since they are fairly cheap, well cheaper than a new build. When the 8350 dies I will probably get another 6300 and overclock that.
 
The 8350 is effectively a 9590 when you run the clocks that high.

If you're trying to push anywhere close to 5GHz on the 8 core FX processors you'll want a better water block. For those kinds of speeds, it's custom loop or bust, the AIO coolers like Corsair just aren't as good as a true loop.
 
I am aware of this. I had a 9590 before the 6300 that is dying now. So another rad wouldn't make any difference?

What if I run something along the lines of this: https://www.amazon.com/Water-Coolin...d=1530562129&sr=8-1&keywords=am3++water+block

And this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CJJFOIW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A36ZH2MCHPKXUA&psc=1

I can reuse the rad from the AIO and get the trans cooler. Would this work better? Not looking for high quality. Wouldnt waste the money on this build. But 80 bucks I can do.
 
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If you're on a very tight budget, my only advise is to have a look in our Classifieds or ebay and the likes to see if you can get some pieces of custom liquid cooling gear at a really good price, used of course. I surely won't promote any no-name chinese knockoffs. The quality won't be there let alone the thought if that really is all copper or just the usual 'mix'. lol
 
I don't think the pump in the h115i will be up to the task. Getting enough fluid through that much radiator isn't likely with that set up. If you go with a copper waterblock, be aware that the transmission coolers and the Corsair (Asetek) radiator are aluminum and you'll need an anti corrosion additive.

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If you're on a very tight budget, my only advise is to have a look in our Classifieds or ebay and the likes to see if you can get some pieces of custom liquid cooling gear at a really good price, used of course. I surely won't promote any no-name chinese knockoffs. The quality won't be there let alone the thought if that really is all copper or just the usual 'mix'. lol


Yeah, the loop I'm building is taking me a few months. Like the Johnny Cash song, I'm doing one piece at at a time. LOL
 
i agree with everyone else in going with a bit higher quality parts but if your dead set on trying something. i would stick with adding that rad and a t-line rather than buying any of the other gear. it sounds like your determined so have at it and let us know how it goes!
 
i agree with everyone else in going with a bit higher quality parts but if your dead set on trying something. i would stick with adding that rad and a t-line rather than buying any of the other gear. it sounds like your determined so have at it and let us know how it goes!

Yes I am determined but I also need to take advice from people that have experience with this type of stuff, such as the people on this forum. I really don't want to short out my mobo or anything else for that matter, especially my PSU which is the highest quality part in my build. So I will probably go with these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L2868VE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A35C93BBDX68G6&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFDS3JA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1BREQ8I6OHSBG&psc=1https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XTMFRQ8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=AELLOY6K8XB8X&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BC1Q7U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A3GO5VFCNOM5I7&psc=1


Its the same price to go with a normal computer rad than a trans cooler. Does quality really make a difference with rads? And I am aware that I will need biocide or whatever its called or a silver coil. The fittings and hoses ill get from my work (auto parts store) or home depot. And i will definately keep an eye out on ebay but i didnt see much in our classified section.

EDIT: Added spaces between links
 
Hard to tell from the pics on your links, but tit looks like high fin density. Get fans that have high static pressure for that. Simple thermodynamics says the greatest surface area wins. Single row as wide as you can fit, then dual row, etc.. If a 120mm wide single row won't do it, move to stacked dual row, and so on.
 
I agree with everyone here. I would avoid all the chinese knockoff junk. If you can't afford quality cooling parts (used or new) then I would suggest not going water cooled. You're better off sticking with air cooling until you have the enough budget to go proper water cooled. Do it the right and proper way, or don't.

I don't understand why people are dead set on going water cooling and don't have enough money to do it, then go the cheap route with chinese knockoff junk, aluminum rads then run back here stating "OMFG my loop leaked/corroded/failed and my pc is dead!. I should have listened to you guys in the first place". We all know it happens with quality name brand parts too, but that's few and far between.

Never ceases to amaze me.
 
That looks like a very neat radiator! If I ever did a custom poop for my rig, auto parts and home Depot stuff is what I'd be using!

What about using a fountain pump? Or the ones tile wetsaw uses? I don't see how it may be a problem and output seems to be adequate:shrug:
 
I agree with everyone here. I would avoid all the chinese knockoff junk. If you can't afford quality cooling parts (used or new) then I would suggest not going water cooled. You're better off sticking with air cooling until you have the enough budget to go proper water cooled. Do it the right and proper way, or don't.

I don't understand why people are dead set on going water cooling and don't have enough money to do it, then go the cheap route with chinese knockoff junk, aluminum rads then run back here stating "OMFG my loop leaked/corroded/failed and my pc is dead!. I should have listened to you guys in the first place". We all know it happens with quality name brand parts too, but that's few and far between.

Never ceases to amaze me.

I am completely aware that mixing metals can corrode. If you read my above comment I address this. I was a mechanic for a while and still work with cars, very similar to computer water cooling systems. And I would never run in here crying about a dead PC. I would repair it or I would upgrade, which would be positive since this PC is a piece of ****. So if I did kill it, it would be positive. Perhaps read all of the comments before becoming amazed. I am not an idiot and I am fully aware cheap products have a much higher tendency to fail. I wouldn't be surprised if I went the route of cheap water cooling that it would indeed fail.

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That looks like a very neat radiator! If I ever did a custom poop for my rig, auto parts and home Depot stuff is what I'd be using!

What about using a fountain pump? Or the ones tile wetsaw uses? I don't see how it may be a problem and output seems to be adequate:shrug:

Thanks for the ideas. I will have to check the prices. Back before water cooling was an actual thing people used water fountain pumps or pools pumps mixing metals. It can be done.

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Hard to tell from the pics on your links, but tit looks like high fin density. Get fans that have high static pressure for that. Simple thermodynamics says the greatest surface area wins. Single row as wide as you can fit, then dual row, etc.. If a 120mm wide single row won't do it, move to stacked dual row, and so on.

I am planning on using the server fans I have. That should be more than enough.
 
:rofl: atmin sir, I didn't even realize it. Lol good catch! I meant custom loop, sir

It corrected to "poop" again!! What a menace!:eek: I had to go back and edit
 
I am completely aware that mixing metals can corrode. If you read my above comment I address this. I was a mechanic for a while and still work with cars, very similar to computer water cooling systems. And I would never run in here crying about a dead PC. I would repair it or I would upgrade, which would be positive since this PC is a piece of ****. So if I did kill it, it would be positive. Perhaps read all of the comments before becoming amazed. I am not an idiot and I am fully aware cheap products have a much higher tendency to fail. I wouldn't be surprised if I went the route of cheap water cooling that it would indeed fail.

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I never said you where an idiot. I've been a mechanic for over 40 years also. I know very well about aluminum/brass/copper rads. I've read and re-read your post and to me it sounds like you're just tossing money out the window. If you want to toss your hard earned money out the window, by all means go for it. I;m just stating that you're not the first, nor the last person to ask questions about crap water cooling parts and throwing money away. I'm here to advise against it and your fund will be better spent going the "right route", but hey who am I to say otherwise. I dunno anything about watercooling. Thus is why I stated it never ceases to amaze me about ppl like you.

Good luck with that tho-
 
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