OP
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2012
- Location
- Quebec, Canada
- Thread Starter
- #21
Ok, I will. But so far, so good, ram is going A!.
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I would stick with the 1866 profile. The 2800 profile is a huge overclock and the other two will be slower.
The thing is that before I had to change the bios chip, these settings were working A1, felt like a warp drive
but make sure you always watch the CPU NB frequency, as if it’s too high the system will fail to boot. You also will need to increase the CPU-NB voltage; I set to 1.3v for the heck of it, but too high can cause performance issues. If you want a high HTT/FSB you might need to bump the Northbridge voltage as well as CPU NB. DRAM Voltage can be changed as well.
Go back into the BIOS and change up the timings, mix up or match the HT Link and CPU NB frequencies, or try them at different levels. You can try increasing the voltage or decreasing them as well. Go back into windows and run your benchmarks. If performance is higher than you are on the right track, if it is lower, then go back.
understand I still have more to learn about modern RAM timings... but when i was overclocking ram, the tRAS had to be equal to the addition of the first 3 timings plus or minus 1. when you had it lower then x+y+z-1 you usually had errors pop up, instability in general.
so in your case your tRAS should be 9+11+9 = 29... though you probably could get away with 28... according to your sig you have it set to 27. back when I was playing with this stuff that was a good way to bork your system stability. i'm willing to bet you never changed the tRAS, as 9-9-9 would naturally have a tRAS of 27... which is where yours is. By bumping the tRCD up to 11, you probably would have needed to bump your tRAS up +2 to 29 as well.
Yep, the supplier flashed the bios in the version I was going to get. As for "a problem", this isn't much of a problem thread more than a "how to make both work together without crashing". I assume that starting "over" will help. So here are the picturesRgone
Will look into that.Might be a good idea...
Take the AI Overclock Tuner off of "Auto" and put it on "Manual". The HT Link Speed in your case is expressed as the actual frequency instead of a multiple of the FSB. Just a different way of presenting it, that's all. The HT Link Speed is the product of the FSB and the multiplier. Same is true for the CPUNB speed. Stock FSB is 200 mhz. So if you had a bios that presented the adjustment as a multiplier you would just set the multiplier to 10x in order to get a frequency of 2000 mhz (200x10=2000). To get a frequency of 2400 mhz you would increase the multiplier to 12x (200x12=2400). Don't get paralyzed by terminology differences from one bios to another. The terminology isn't standardized but the concepts are the same. As you may have opportunity to work with various motherboard manufacturers over time you will be able to translate.