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AMD 9370 issues with Crosshair Formula V - Z

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I have a bagillion different types of fans but no high static pressure 140mm. I got some GELID's though that'll work just fine and some corsair AF's to pull them away.

I guess my mobo will have to be the decent fan controller for right now. I just kinda want to get the thing liquid cooled first, ya know?
 
I saw those in your thread and I was like "Holy @#$% those look like they mean business!"

If I don't like my setup, then I'll try those out. Thanks again.
 
PRELIMINARY ROUND

Here are a couple of pics for ya'll to see about the BIOS and my rigs "rigged" setup BEFORE the liquid cooling gets attached and before any sorts of testing begins here in a couple of minutes (and by testing I mean finding the values to beat).

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Sorry for the color weirdness on the BIOS pics. Had to change to a 16 color bitmap just to reduce the size!

Few things I didn't take a picture of was that I'm using 1403 BIOS version and my room configuration which has cool air coming in and a fan pushing it out the door. That fan on the back of my case is going at max. The ambient temp of the room is around 21-22 Degrees Centigrade.

See anything? Let me know!
 
Man thanks for the pics. WE can hardly get peeps to put of images when they are in real trouble and you are way farther along than most of them. Thanks

I notice Cpu VDDA is up from 2.487 to 2.523 by default that is a change in that 9xxx cpu.

HPC you show Disabled but High Performance Computer should be Enabled is my understanding. Between C6 state and APM Master Mode.

Batch Image Converter, Resizer
http://sourceforge.net/projects/dinoimages/
With something like this you do not have to lose the color on those 2MB files from F12.

RGone...
 
Man thanks for the pics. WE can hardly get peeps to put of images when they are in real trouble and you are way farther along than most of them. Thanks

Batch Image Converter, Resizer
http://sourceforge.net/projects/dinoimages/
With something like this you do not have to lose the color on those 2MB files from F12.

RGone...

You're Welcome. And thanks for the Image converter too. Really useful thing ASUS does is something that cant be posted normally :-/

HPC you show Disabled but High Performance Computer should be Enabled is my understanding. Between C6 state and APM Master Mode.

When boot to BIOS next time, will do!:salute:
 
ROUND 1

So I went as long as I could stand it. :bang head

Approx. four hours and here are some shots of what was accomplished during that time.
4.7 GHz Aftertest.PNG

4.7 GHz During test 2.PNG

4.7 GHz During test.PNG

4.7GHz RAM.PNG

The RAM are set to JEDC #2 on my RAM profile which is somewhere here in this thread (missed that picture). Not too shabby by my standards. However, 64 degrees on that chip... I never caught it actually being that high so it must have happened when I was drinking my tea. :shrug:

Not much else I can do until my b-day :)bday:) present gets here on Monday.

See anything? Let me know!
 
Change NB Freq and HT link multi to x12.

I got better results matching the speeds.

Also try to bump the FSB to 204. That will put you just short of 4.9Ghz and see if it is stable.

For some reason that little bit in FSB works very well but to do it with multi requires more voltage.
 
Change NB Freq and HT link multi to x12.

I got better results matching the speeds.

Also try to bump the FSB to 204. That will put you just short of 4.9Ghz and see if it is stable.

For some reason that little bit in FSB works very well but to do it with multi requires more voltage.

I've heard that, especially from you, before (I'm not very good at implementing things when I've heard them...). I'd like to have my liquid cooling installed before testing again. I'm also not in the mood to do it for another four hours so maybe tomorrow.
 
With package temps already pushing 65*C I am not sure pushing any more VCore is worth the effort without being able to add some cooling or get rid of more heat. What kind of fan config are you running .... push, pull or a push pull. By playing with you fan combo you might be able to get a couple of *C more out of it ...... hard to say though.

No need to run it for 4 hours till you are happy with your OC ...... 20 min ..... till you are getting close to your max OC then 2hours once you get to where you want or as far as you can go ..... whichever comes first then test for as long as you like.
 
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I've heard that, especially from you, before (I'm not very good at implementing things when I've heard them...). I'd like to have my liquid cooling installed before testing again. I'm also not in the mood to do it for another four hours so maybe tomorrow.

Give it 10 minutes with Prime95 Large FFT. If it stays through that then it will be fine until you can test it later.
 
Nah, you both have my intentions wrong. I did these tests so that I have a rock solid point to go back to should something happen. Yes, I understand the 20 min method. Yes, I know a specific fan configuration *might* do better.

BUT what's the point of doing another test with my current/altered setup if Monday my liquid gold is here? I don't feel like beating this dead horse and beating myself up just to set up a different fan config. I practically exhausted my entertainment for the four hours I did test. I'll take the considerations and maybe tomorrow do something with them but right now I'm beat.

The rad has two SP120's maxed out (at least during testing) in push and there's a housefan keeping the back cooled.
 
Nah, you both have my intentions wrong. I did these tests so that I have a rock solid point to go back to should something happen. Yes, I understand the 20 min method. Yes, I know a specific fan configuration *might* do better.

BUT what's the point of doing another test with my current/altered setup if Monday my liquid gold is here? I don't feel like beating this dead horse and beating myself up just to set up a different fan config. I practically exhausted my entertainment for the four hours I did test. I'll take the considerations and maybe tomorrow do something with them but right now I'm beat.

The rad has two SP120's maxed out (at least during testing) in push and there's a housefan keeping the back cooled.

Aye, Aye Colonel. Hehehe.

Why even seeing your bios pics I did not say change a bunch of shett. Knew you were waiting on c00ling. We get so many coming into the forums with NO freeken baseline idea of what is what. They just overclocking. Hehehe. So your getting a baseline to go from is quite refreshing actually.

Now when the c00ling comes in over the next few days...you will know just how much c00l you got in the package. :thup:

Good fortune on your twisting the water ways to meet your wishes. Then after another solid see how it goes baseline...you can move up iffen U wants tuh. 4.7Ghz is about the place most of us work...make that work and not game from anyway and you have that nearly zeroed in.

RGone...rokken on outen here. :salute:
 
So... She's built (oh my god that was hard) but she ain't filled. I know many people use the power supply in order to fill the rig, but I can't seem to figure it out. I short out the green wire with any black on the power supply, but then what?

EDIT: That was a dumb question. Never mind.
 
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So... She's built (oh my god that was hard) but she ain't filled. I know many people use the power supply in order to fill the rig, but I can't seem to figure it out. I short out the green wire with any black on the power supply, but then what?

EDIT: That was a dumb question. Never mind.

Almost there Zephyr now to "unleash the beast" :clap:
 
Alright, here's a legit question.

I have my 8-pin CPU power plugged in. Because of my loop I cannot remove it with out removing the loop which then inhibits me from plugging it back in. In short, I cannot remove it. Is it safe for me to power on the power supply in this state in order to fill the loop or does it have to be removed in order to prevent frying the CPU, board, and stuff.
 
Man just got home to a computer. Been gone all day. 7 hours and no one wanted to touch that question? That 8 pin does not go to the cpu without going thru the VRMs so I don't see why you could not fill the loop with the power supply jumpered. If you are going to have that issue everytime or many times, I would have to put some more connectors in a place I could get to and unhook the 8 pin connector.
RGone...

Alright, here's a legit question.

I have my 8-pin CPU power plugged in. Because of my loop I cannot remove it with out removing the loop which then inhibits me from plugging it back in. In short, I cannot remove it. Is it safe for me to power on the power supply in this state in order to fill the loop or does it have to be removed in order to prevent frying the CPU, board, and stuff.
 
Alright RGone. It's fine really. If it doesn't hurt it the first time then it shouldn't hurt it anytime there after. Won't be needing to remove it anyways unless I needed to get a bigger power supply anyways which I won't.

And thanks bassnut. Although I was kinda looking for a more immediate solution, these will also work.

My friend has an psu he can lend me for a bit so I'll be using that today.
 
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