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That patterned look isn't from bubbles, though.
Awesome posts ladies and gents!
It does seem like the X method is the best according to that video.
Does it matter if the paste spews out over the sides? I guess its ok as long as it does go onto the circuit board.
what is it then
If that was all bubble the temperatures would be horrendous.
But i feel you can negate those bubbles with a tite mount or a simple titty twist. Also as much as i trust your testing blue a .5 - 1 c difference is well within the margin of error. Also from your comments it seems like the other methods you used didn't cover the entire IHS ( the pea and X methods.) so that could also account for the 1c difference.
Sorry to offer advice to contrary but i used to do the thin film method too, but after watching this vid it seemed like that it causes more air bubbles than other mounting methods. This difference in the end will be negligible but i assume that if the first points of contact are relatively small, and it spread out from there ( roughly the centre the likelihood of air bubbles will be smaller surely? If you have a large area of contact but the surface is uneven ( the majority of IHS and blocks are not 100% flat) the air bubbles will appear within the gaps of contact and wont be able to escape as the pressure isnt coming from one central point but rather several. I'm not 100% on this but it seems to make most sense to me.
skip to 1:53. This could be due to the uneven/lack of pressure he is applying to the plastic, but it does give a nice incite as to how paste acts under different methods. I found the x method seemed to spread the best ( 2:16) In the end though it will make very little difference in terms of temps. And simply each to their own. But Blue is spot on about too little paste being detrimental and also having a very tight mount .
Nb look at the MX2 method vid he does
I know these are pretty shoddy but this is my thought process
With the X method for example, as the pressure is coming from a high contact point, which has the space to push the air to the edges, eliminating the potential for air bubbles.
View attachment 115486
View attachment 115487
As the pressure is applied the area of contact spreads from that original X outwards and pushing all the air bubbles to the side in the process like so
View attachment 115488
With the credit card process you are making multiple areas of contact that are not linked.
View attachment 115489
View attachment 115490
As you can see the blue areas ( air bubbles ) get trapped in between the multiple contact areas ( red) as they have no route to escape.
This might be stupid and flawed, but this is kind of how my brain is seeing it at the moment ( sorry about the shoddy paint job im at work and its the best i could do!) lol
Did watch it.
Watched it again.
The pattern shows up during removal, like I said.
It does a tiny bit on the edges when he releases pressure due to the acrylic flexing, when he lets go the edges de-flex upward and pull of, creating that pattern.
what bob means, is that the arcylic bending, is what caused the bubbles.
you can see at first it is air tight, then as he add more pressure, suddenly something springs up, and that is in fact, the acrylic bending...
you know.. he keeps pressing the sides.. and suddenly something pops out from the middle..
that normally .. cannot happen, dont u think? unless he has like.. 1mm thick of the material.
That patterned look isn't from bubbles, though.
Did watch it.
Watched it again.
The pattern shows up during removal, like I said.
It does a tiny bit on the edges when he releases pressure due to the acrylic flexing, when he lets go the edges de-flex upward and pull of, creating that pattern.
+1It does happen, look at the dot, all TIMs, the line, all TIMs, after he removes the acrylic.
The heatsink base does not bend.
It is also applied far more tightly than can be done by hand.
EDIT:
Spent some more time watching the spread, and he's clearly trying to "prove" a point.
He has excellent contact and then pushes down hard around the outside of the acrylic, bowing it. This pulls the center OFF THE DIE. That, in my world, is removal. When you remove contact, the pattern shows up. When you're using a flexible material you can remove contact from the middle and not the edges. Note that he does not do this to any other CPU. Also not that the contact is excellent before he pops the middle up by pushing down elsewhere.
Also note that every single paste in every single method leaves that pattern when removed.
Lastly, I do not at all appreciate you saying that I am lying about something blindingly obvious in the video. That is rude, at best.
It does happen, look at the dot, all TIMs, the line, all TIMs, after he removes the acrylic.
The heatsink base does not bend.
It is also applied far more tightly than can be done by hand.
EDIT:
Spent some more time watching the spread, and he's clearly trying to "prove" a point.
He has excellent contact and then pushes down hard around the outside of the acrylic, bowing it. This pulls the center OFF THE DIE. That, in my world, is removal. When you remove contact, the pattern shows up. When you're using a flexible material you can remove contact from the middle and not the edges. Note that he does not do this to any other CPU. Also not that the contact is excellent before he pops the middle up by pushing down elsewhere.
Also note that every single paste in every single method leaves that pattern when removed.
Lastly, I do not at all appreciate you saying that I am lying about something blindingly obvious in the video. That is rude, at best.