Corsair H60 problems

[SuperTuner12010]

Alright well having problems with my H60. Temps on my 965be are over 55c during prime at 1.38v.

Is it possible to have the block to tight? I noticed I tightned so much that the tabs acctualy bent downwards tords the mount a bit.

The paste is Cooler Master HTK-002-U1 Thermal Compound. Mayeb a better paste?

And maybe my fan combo. I have the rad mounted directly to the case, with the 120mm suppliedon the inside blowing air through and out. Then a 140mm on spacers on the outside of the case.

Oh and have 4x120mm coller master sickle flow fans on the door blowing air in. Top fan is exhaust.

 

[SuperTuner12010]

Anyone?

 

[Conumdrum]

I don't know squat about AMD. What are your temps under prime 95 at stock clocks? Under 55C? Then the H60 is doing it's job I guess. The H60 is'nt magic and still surpassed by top regular heatsinks.

Swap/reverse all your case fans in the other direction. Cut the grill out where the rad is. Get some big assed fans.

Ohh what are you measuring temps with? Coretemp for the AMD? Good.

 

[SuperTuner12010]

Well 55c is from my undestanding, temp wall. Dont want to push past that. And i sit right there, sometimes just over.

And I dont think turning my fans around will help at all? Front and side are intake, the back were the rad is is exhaust along with the top. Whole top of the case is mesh, and as heat rises. Id imagine this would be the most effecient setup. No?

And could you refer air coolers that are better than the h60 at a competing price. Non water...

 

[trents]

I would remove the water block from the CPU and observe the pattern of contact between the block and the CPU face as evidenced by what you see in the paste residue. Maybe there is uneven pressure or the paste wasn't spread properly.

 

[SuperTuner12010]

Gonna gave to orde some more paste. I used the last of it...I know there are a million threads on it, and alot of them come tdown to price.

But what paste would you guys suggest? MX2?

 

[Conumdrum]

It's a fact. Case air as it passes parts is warmed. Thus your air through the rad is warmer than the room air. Corsair recommends you PULL or PUSH room air into the case.

MX2 is dead. You ever read Skinneelabs.com? You should.

Tpaste isn't going to help. Unless you made some odd mistake. Heck, it's just an H60, it's sold at Best Buy, so it can't be that hard to do.

Try it at stock speeds like I already suggested. Fans, etc. It ain't magic dude.

 

[SuperTuner12010]

It's a fact. Case air as it passes parts is warmed. Thus your air through the rad is warmer than the room air. Corsair recommends you PULL or PUSH room air into the case.

MX2 is dead. You ever read Skinneelabs.com? You should.

Tpaste isn't going to help. Unless you made some odd mistake. Heck, it's just an H60, it's sold at Best Buy, so it can't be that hard to do.

Try it at stock speeds like I already suggested. Fans, etc. It ain't magic dude.

Not quite understanding you, turing all my fans their opposite dirrectuions they are now?

So as you say:
front intake- make it exhaust
side intakes- make them exhaust
rear fans with radiator exhaust- turn them around so brings air into the case thru the rad from the back
top fan exhaust- make it intake

I just dont see the effecincy. Pushing air down against the heat rising? I could understand pulling air into the rad and reversing those two, and possibly the front.

And the 4 fans on the side? I guess I could try those, but im sure my gpu temps will begin to rise aas they feed it good amoutns of air.

And why would I go to my stock speeds. That kind of defeats the purpose of watercooling.

 

[Tech Tweaker]

Sounds like you over-tightened the block. When you tightened it from what it sounds like you probably caused it to be pulled down at the outside edges of the block, while at the same time it bowed away from the CPU in the middle (probably not by a lot, but enough to cause a problem) and odds are good your problem may be a gap at the center where the block and CPU meet causing temps to be higher.

Contrary to what Conumdrum said, AC MX-2 may be dead, but it's still good paste. I've always liked it when I used it. Spreads fairly easily (much easier than AS5, if you've used that), and its performance is decent.

You'll probably have to remount the block to get good contact, or loosen the screws at the very least.

Also, your airflow setup sounds decent the way it is with front & side intakes, rear and top exhaust.

 

[SuperTuner12010]

Conumdrum has my mind wondering...lol now im trying to redesign my entire fan setup. Although I have an idea to get around it. Using ducting from one od the side fans to the rads fan. Id have to make a pic out to explain....Then it would allow air from the outside of the case to flow thru the duct to the rad and out...

But i do believe I over tightened the block. I think what happened is as you said, the inner parts of the block pulled away from the center. And I dint use very much thermal paste, emtied the last of what I had. Gonna order some more paste and reseat the block. Thanks for the replys...

 

[DumpALump]

I know a lot of people have achieved 4ghz or 4.2ghz, but on my old 965BE with a TRUE 120 and 1600-1800rpm (forget exactly) fan I could only achieve 3.8ghz 24/7 as the temps would hit 55C+ otherwise. The place I was at when I had that chip the temperature in the room would be around 78-80F. I believe the H60 and TRUE are at least somewhat comparable.

Here's my take on the reason everyone else can get 4ghz. Because the processor has almost a hard cap on temps before stability problems, just the change of 3-4C in a room can mean 4ghz or not. If the room went from 78F to 70F that is a ~4C change. Then there are people who have a room temperature under 70F

2nd reason maybe they are willing to run faster fan speeds, but I think I remember most people were running max of 2000rpm fans, so I don't think they were going overboard with it.

 

[SuperTuner12010]

I know a lot of people have achieved 4ghz or 4.2ghz, but on my old 965BE with a TRUE 120 and 1600-1800rpm (forget exactly) fan I could only achieve 3.8ghz 24/7 as the temps would hit 55C+ otherwise. The place I was at when I had that chip the temperature in the room would be around 78-80F. I believe the H60 and TRUE are at least somewhat comparable.

Here's my take on the reason everyone else can get 4ghz. Because the processor has almost a hard cap on temps before stability problems, just the change of 3-4C in a room can mean 4ghz or not. If the room went from 78F to 70F that is a ~4C change. Then there are people who have a room temperature under 70F

2nd reason maybe they are willing to run faster fan speeds, but I think I remember most people were running max of 2000rpm fans, so I don't think they were going overboard with it.

I think that may be a good indication. It has been getting cooler in my room. Espescially in the mornings. My fan controller has temp sensors but I have them sitting just behind the mobo. On colder mornings the fan controller is at 22c. Those are the times when the cpu sits between 28-30 at idle. As the day goes by and my room heats up. The fan controller shows 28c. And my cpu tems are at 38c idle.

Didnt think the room temp was effecting my pc's temps that much. I dont believe I will get much higher without a true loop. However I did order 2 Gentle Typhoons 1850rpm, some Prolimatech PK-1. Gonna play with the fan setups and see If I cant get my temps down a bit more. If not gonna be getting a 1100t or bd soon anyhow.

Thanks for all the replies and help guys...

 

[jorge-ncp-]

Then there are people who have a room temperature under 70F

HAHAHAHAHAHA meeeee!!! xD
Sorry for the off-topic, couldn't help it when I read that was freaking hilarious.

Say, Would u guys recomend H60?
Because I'm thinking to get it but I don't know if my Hyper 212 is better...

 

[SuperTuner12010]

HAHAHAHAHAHA meeeee!!! xD
Sorry for the off-topic, couldn't help it when I read that was freaking hilarious.

Say, Would u guys recomend H60?
Because I'm thinking to get it but I don't know if my Hyper 212 is better...

Honestly, it really depends on what your plans are. Iv had nothing but problems with temps. Given i live in Texas. My room temps are usually pretty high. With 1.38v core, at 3.8ghz when my room is cold i idle at 28c. When my room warms up I idle at 38c.

Not that I do any crazy overclocking but Id like to go higher. Id suggest the H60 ony if you dont plan to overclock very high. then again with lower temps it might work out ok.

I personaly would now prefer a true loop.

 

[jason4207]

Didn't your H60 come w/ TIM already applied? Did you clean it off and apply your own?

My H70 came w/ TIM pre-applied, and I just used that. I also over-tightened the CPU block, but rather than re-do it I just left it that way. I don't think the CPU block will bow that easily. At least on my H70 the plastic was crushed a little where the screws go in, but I seriously doubt there is enough pressure to deform the CPU block.

For decent OCing I'd get at least the H70/80 or H100 if you want the closed water loop. Or go w/ a big tower cooler from Thermalright or Prolimatech for an all air solution.

I've had great experience w/ MX-2. From what I've read MX-3 is rather thick and harder to work with, and MX-4 is similar to MX-2, but a little better. I also have some Gelid GC-Extreme that has worked out well.

 

[SuperTuner12010]

It came with tim, but when I got my new board I had to remove. Ran out of AS5 on another project. So had to use some cooler master stuff I got at Comp USA.

Ordered the Prolimatech PK-1 Ano Silver stuff. Seen it does pretty well. Going to see about using th fans as intake, but were they would blow into the case. I was thinking of making a duct out of the stuff you use for dryers. And have it go to a 120mm on the top exhausting the heat out.

That was I will be running cooler air into the rad and instead of it bringing the air into the case it will exhaust back out. Not sure if it will help. I guess the only way is to test it. Which I will do. Just waiting on th TIM and the Gentle Typhoons...

Either way I will be going with a true loop when I do more research and put together the perfect sytem for my needs.

 

[jason4207]

Keep in mind that you are still dissipating the same amount of heat into the room even if you have a fancy custom water loop. If you don't remove the heat from the room it will build-up and you'll still hit a wall.

I have to leave my office door open and the ceiling fan on to keep the heat more evenly distributed throughout my house. Otherwise it gets pretty warm in there. My PC loves it when the outside temperature allows me to open all the windows. Tons of fresh cool air!

 

[SuperTuner12010]

As im not too familiar with the break in time of the PK-1

Anyhow used a different mounting metheod which i will make a project log or something with on what i did. I prefer it over the old method. Others may be interested in it. It allows you to utilize the intel mount from the H60.

But just with the PK-1 idle was at 40c, then worked it way down to 38 after a few minutes. And is now between 36 and 37c.

Load temps during prime for an hour didnt go over 56c. Now im just waiting on my typhoons so I can mess around with the airflow thru the radiator.