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CPU to Cooler surfaces preparation
- Thread starter dolsen
- Start date
the 212 i instaled recentally the base looked like it was done on a sander 
without overdoing it, it took only 20 minutes, to knock the high ridges down, and flatten it up a bit.
this was the procedure.
put metal oxide 600 sandpaper down on very flat straight surface, hold base, move around on sandpaper in Opposite direction of thier ridges. dont lean or round off the edges.
keep doing that till thier original ridges are 2/3 - 3/4 gone. test using fingernal drag if it is to messy to see at that point.
avoid going to deep or excessive, dont want to go through anything, or end up ofsetting the base any, i just wanted to get more metal to metal going.
after that, replace sandpaper with microfiber rag, put very light abrasive normal car wax on microfiber polishing rag, move around till the 600 sandpaper cut is 2/3 - 3/4 gone.
Clean , clean, i use amonias and alcohol, get rid of the wax, fully dry, smear tiny tim into surface of both item with microfiber rag.
then install using standard tim methods (i used thin spread because of the tiny ridges still left along the heat pipe tracks squish would go down the tracks).
one computer a quad running 15% OC , i cant get it to heat up now ;-) the thermal controlled fan using a silent profile basically stays idle, closing it up in the case got it a bit warmer, but the cooler worked pretty good.
nessisary steps? i donno, i just wanted it one and done, and that just meant to knock off the high parts of the machining, so it sits down more.
.
without overdoing it, it took only 20 minutes, to knock the high ridges down, and flatten it up a bit.
this was the procedure.
put metal oxide 600 sandpaper down on very flat straight surface, hold base, move around on sandpaper in Opposite direction of thier ridges. dont lean or round off the edges.
keep doing that till thier original ridges are 2/3 - 3/4 gone. test using fingernal drag if it is to messy to see at that point.
avoid going to deep or excessive, dont want to go through anything, or end up ofsetting the base any, i just wanted to get more metal to metal going.
after that, replace sandpaper with microfiber rag, put very light abrasive normal car wax on microfiber polishing rag, move around till the 600 sandpaper cut is 2/3 - 3/4 gone.
Clean , clean, i use amonias and alcohol, get rid of the wax, fully dry, smear tiny tim into surface of both item with microfiber rag.
then install using standard tim methods (i used thin spread because of the tiny ridges still left along the heat pipe tracks squish would go down the tracks).
one computer a quad running 15% OC , i cant get it to heat up now ;-) the thermal controlled fan using a silent profile basically stays idle, closing it up in the case got it a bit warmer, but the cooler worked pretty good.
nessisary steps? i donno, i just wanted it one and done, and that just meant to knock off the high parts of the machining, so it sits down more.
.
Last edited:
- Thread Starter
- #3
the 212 i instaled recentally the base looked like it was done on a sander
without overdoing it, it took only 20 minutes, to knock the high ridges down, and flatten it up a bit.
this was the procedure.
put metal oxide 600 sandpaper down on very flat straight surface, hold base, move around on sandpaper in Opposite direction of thier ridges. dont lean or round off the edges.
keep doing that till thier original ridges are 2/3 - 3/4 gone. test using fingernal drag if it is to messy to see at that point.
avoid going to deep or excessive, dont want to go through anything, or end up ofsetting the base any, i just wanted to get more metal to metal going.
after that, replace sandpaper with microfiber rag, put very light abrasive normal car wax on microfiber polishing rag, move around till the 600 sandpaper cut is 2/3 - 3/4 gone.
Clean , clean, i use amonias and alcohol, get rid of the wax, fully dry, smear tiny tim into surface of both item with microfiber rag.
then install using standard tim methods (i used thin spread because of the tiny ridges still left along the heat pipe tracks squish would go down the tracks).
one computer a quad running 15% OC , i cant get it to heat up now ;-) the thermal controlled fan using a silent profile basically stays idle, closing it up in the case got it a bit warmer, but the cooler worked pretty good.
nessisary steps? i donno, i just wanted it one and done, and that just meant to knock off the high parts of the machining, so it sits down more.
.
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2006
- Location
- N.E. Illinois
The only prep I needed to do to the 212+ I installed on the last three systems was to make sure you apply the TIM correctly. That will make or break your temps.
A line of TIM along all three heat pipes and than spread it and back scrape it with a credit card till there is barely any TIM you can see on the HS. Then, put a fine coating on the CPU so it looks opaque. Barely see it, install HS and tighten it down. You need very little to get good contact. All these 212's I've checked are very flat. No sanding required. Not one so far.
A line of TIM along all three heat pipes and than spread it and back scrape it with a credit card till there is barely any TIM you can see on the HS. Then, put a fine coating on the CPU so it looks opaque. Barely see it, install HS and tighten it down. You need very little to get good contact. All these 212's I've checked are very flat. No sanding required. Not one so far.
Last edited:
- Thread Starter
- #6
