- Joined
- Jan 31, 2012
- Location
- Houston, TX
Get an old or small new PSU, jump the green wire and use the PSU's on/off switch
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Do you push or pull with your fans?
- Thread starter BachOn
- Start date
- Thread Starter
- #42
Modz, That rather understated advice is like telling a brain surgeon, "Yeah, just drill on in there and jerk that tumor out." A few more details might increase the likelihood of things going slightly better.
The tutorial I saw called for a 15 ohm resistor to 'fake' a load. But some power supplies are not fooled by this. And some won't give a full 12 volts of power unless you add a resitor on the 5 volt line. It all sounds rather haphazard and nebulous to me.
Could you point me to a better tutorial? I've got several computer power supplies. I've got a brand new 450 watter with an on/off switch that came with a case for my wife's computer. It just didn't have the "oomph" for her equipment. And some others probably also have the power to do the deed. I'm just not real clear on exactly how to do it. "Jump the green wire" with what? A little more specificity is often a useful thing.
BO
The tutorial I saw called for a 15 ohm resistor to 'fake' a load. But some power supplies are not fooled by this. And some won't give a full 12 volts of power unless you add a resitor on the 5 volt line. It all sounds rather haphazard and nebulous to me.
Could you point me to a better tutorial? I've got several computer power supplies. I've got a brand new 450 watter with an on/off switch that came with a case for my wife's computer. It just didn't have the "oomph" for her equipment. And some others probably also have the power to do the deed. I'm just not real clear on exactly how to do it. "Jump the green wire" with what? A little more specificity is often a useful thing.
BO
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2012
- Location
- Houston, TX
Okay. Once again you are WAY over thinking this. You do not need a resistor or anything of tht nature. Look at the end of the 24pin ATX connector. Locate the green wire, there is only ONE of them. Take a paper clip and bend it into a "U" shape. Stick one end of the paper clip into the green pin and the other end of the paper clip into any black wire on the 24 pin connector. Flip the switch on the PSU and bam, watch it come to life.
You can dress it up with heat shrink or electric tape to make it look good or you can do what I did. What I did was get a female 24 pin connector and 2 associating pins. Get a one inch piece of #18 wire and put the pins on both ends of the one inch wire. Then hook the female end up to the male end of the ATX cable. Put one end of the wire into a slot corresponding with the green an then any other location that lines up with a black wire. This way you wil always have an adapter and can just plug it in when you want it jumped.
-Modz
You can dress it up with heat shrink or electric tape to make it look good or you can do what I did. What I did was get a female 24 pin connector and 2 associating pins. Get a one inch piece of #18 wire and put the pins on both ends of the one inch wire. Then hook the female end up to the male end of the ATX cable. Put one end of the wire into a slot corresponding with the green an then any other location that lines up with a black wire. This way you wil always have an adapter and can just plug it in when you want it jumped.
-Modz
- Thread Starter
- #45
OK. I did it. And, of course, you guys are right. Flipped the switch and the sucker powered right up. "IT'S ALIVE!!!" This supply is rated for 16 amps (192 watts) on the 12 volt side. So I'm supposing that any of the Molex connectors will take that. I can't find the power rating on these Zalmans, but it can't be very much.
Well, I'll be go to hell!
Hey! I'm not guilty this time! I wasn't overthinking anything. I bet I can find the link to that tutorial. This guy made a huge deal about this.
I'm guessing that some sort of switch to break that connection would work on a power supply without a switch. Or do you have to lift one leg, fart twice and bow towards the West for this to work?
BO
Well, I'll be go to hell!
Hey! I'm not guilty this time! I wasn't overthinking anything. I bet I can find the link to that tutorial. This guy made a huge deal about this.
I'm guessing that some sort of switch to break that connection would work on a power supply without a switch. Or do you have to lift one leg, fart twice and bow towards the West for this to work?
BO
- Thread Starter
- #46
"Here's that link, your Honor. The Defense wishes to present our evidence.
http://web2.murraystate.edu/andy.batts/ps/powersupply.htm
The Defendent contends that, in point of fact, he was not thinking at all."
E. Benjamin Bullshooter, Esq.
BO's attorney
http://web2.murraystate.edu/andy.batts/ps/powersupply.htm
The Defendent contends that, in point of fact, he was not thinking at all."
E. Benjamin Bullshooter, Esq.
BO's attorney
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2012
- Location
- Houston, TX
I don't need your evidence. I have already rested my case by you proving it works. Thanks lol
lol
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2007
- Location
- Small town Emlenton, PA
- Thread Starter
- #49
When I first plug in my water cooling system, there is a brief section where I can HEAR the water starting to move. There is a swirlling sound. I assumed it was bubbles working their way. My reservoir is the lowest point in my system. So bubbles don't last long.
BO
BO
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2007
- Location
- Small town Emlenton, PA
Your system isn't bled. And startup noise is not an issue. IT can take a WEEK to bleed right.......
Maybe more post reading will help, just not the BO generated posts?
Maybe you don't know how to bleed a WC system properly........
Maybe more post reading will help, just not the BO generated posts?
Maybe you don't know how to bleed a WC system properly........
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2012
- Location
- Houston, TX
Apparently not. 
- Thread Starter
- #53
Concerning:
"The Impact of Tubing Size"
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=515368
FYI: There is a terrific Sticky in the Water cooling forum created by conumdrum with some really great links. But the one on tubing size seems to be missing all the pictures. And the pictures seem to be where all the charts were located. Without it, all you're left with is a lot of discussion - but little of the actual data. Its probable the charts were removed from some external site.
BO
"The Impact of Tubing Size"
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=515368
FYI: There is a terrific Sticky in the Water cooling forum created by conumdrum with some really great links. But the one on tubing size seems to be missing all the pictures. And the pictures seem to be where all the charts were located. Without it, all you're left with is a lot of discussion - but little of the actual data. Its probable the charts were removed from some external site.
BO
Last edited:
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2007
- Location
- Small town Emlenton, PA
Yep, guess you missed it. It was posted in 2007. Pictures were on some pic storage place, this one was: http://www.employees.org/~slf/curves/pumps/tubings.png Possibly where Cathar worked back then.
You can maybe find other links that help explain it, I did a google search for watercooling tubing size comparison, found some other links that may help.
We can only do so much to help you. And it's not my problem.
You can maybe find other links that help explain it, I did a google search for watercooling tubing size comparison, found some other links that may help.
We can only do so much to help you. And it's not my problem.
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2012
- Location
- Houston, TX
^^
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2008
- Location
- Chicago, IL
Im surprise that Martin didnt place results of push+pull w/ shroud.
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2008
- Location
- East Coast
Vast majority of the people that watercool use either 3/8 ID (9.6mm) or 1/2 ID (12.7mm) tubing. From that page you linked is the information below, which tells you the temperature difference between those using 3/8 ID tubing versus those using 1/2 ID tubing was 0.12C.
IE, to end user, no temp difference is visible with typical tubing sizes we use.
- Thread Starter
- #58
Conumdrum, I really don't think my post was critical of anyone. I only mentioned your 'handle' to say you had originally posted these valuable links. Let me repeat that I feel the advice and guidance I have received here from you and several others has been very helpful. I figured our fearless moderator might want to know of the issue. I did not know where such information should be posted.
Finally, I did notice the original posting was from 2007. But I figured the data and the results may be just as valid today.
Cordially,
Bach On
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2002
- Location
- Seattle, WA
On my MCR-QP's I run Push+Pull with a 25mm shroud on each side. Why not, yate loon's are dirt cheap and any little bit helps. If I was strained for space I would run in pull on the MCR-QP's.
