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SeedTick? said:Super nice guy and really good kit.
It's a shame that everybody you deal with ain't like Mr. Brown.
He's a throw back from yesteryear.
MaStA said:I have one of the new AMD heatsinks with four heatpipes that I would like to lap. Is this process hard to do? I don't want to screw it up and take too much of the base off so the contact isn't very good anymore. I am sure that would take a lot of sanding to make that type of difference though. I heard the extreme mirror finish is not the best. Shiny is good, but not mirror due to taking all the pours of the metal away and not having something for the compound to go into. This an anyone can do project?
P.S. - Mr. Brown, I would like my military discount as well.
j/k
Jared
insulglass said:Thanks for the question! As long as you have a flat base and clear lapping path, you should be just fine. (some sinks have a lip on the edge, or the CPU contact area is an insert as an example)
The kit contains a sheet of 400 grit which will level everything out and take out machining marks farily quickly, then you just progress through the grit ranges. This IS pretty much an easy project, though the time required depends on the condition of your sink at the start. The key has always been water, water, and more water... keep the paper wet and rinsed well and you'll be just fine. I can lap most standard heat sinks in about 45 minutes to an hour.
The key, is of course not shininess but flatness. BUT... if you get it flat and lapped to the final grit ranges, it will be pretty shiny. The type of motion affects this as well, for instance, a circular or figure eight motion will end up less shiny than a reciprocal motion for instance.
I fully support the military personnel of the USA! Last year, I had the good fortune to be able to coordinate and ship over about $1300 worth of supplies and food, mostly from another forum I spend a lot of time on (www.tiderinsider.com, I am a Univ of Alabama graduate - Roll Tide!).
Dave
[email protected]
Exactly my experiences/thoughts as well. Although I find it a little easier to do a circular motion sometimes, especially if the base if the heatsink is much longer than it is wide.insulglass said:There are plenty of arguments about the type of motion. Here's what I think is the bottom line.... it doesn't much matter.
Circular or figure eight motion is more likely to give you a flatter surface. However, the reciprocal motion is much easier to accomplish and that's what I personally prefer. Once you get down to the single digit micron level for surface RMS measurement, the motion style is not too significant IMHO, but other people feel quite strongly about it. I just don't see much of a difference in real life measurements.
Must do's, though, regardless... lap long enough at each level to completely remove the scratches from the previous coarser grit level. Put the glass on a firm surface to prevent flexing. Use lots and lot of water and rinsing.
Dave
[email protected]
gvblake22 said:Exactly my experiences/thoughts as well. Although I find it a little easier to do a circular motion sometimes, especially if the base if the heatsink is much longer than it is wide.
I purchased one of these kits a while back and was 100% satisfied.
Here is a lapping guide I wrote for anyone interested.
I also mentioned in there that easyPCkits is a great place for lapping kits and supplies
Yeah, glad you found it usefulMaStA said:Thank you for that guide you wrote. Now I just have to order me one and give it a shot on this stock AMD heatpipe cooler.
Thanks,
Jared
glasslicker said:You need to get in to the PC business. With your service, you'd make a killing.