Few questions - My first WC rig

[Davan]

Over the holidays through presents and my own $$$ I have assembled my first watercooling configuration and I had a few questions that I cant seem to find easy answers to. Was hoping that the more experienced people here might be able to answer a few of these questions.

First off let me start by saying what parts Im using.
Swiftech Apogee CPU block
MCP 655 pump
Black Ice Extreme 3 Rad with 3X Delta 120MM fans (havnt arrived yet so using 2X Coolermaster 120MM fans for now)

1) Can anyone tell me what "ID" and "OD" means? I cannot seem to locate a quick definition of these two abbreviations

2) Are there generally any negative repercussions for mixing different sizes of tubing? I bought 1/2" tubing but for some reason they didnt send enough 1/2" barbs for me assemble everything. So I can either go buy some tubing to fit the smaller barbs that came with the larger barbs, or I can order some more 1/2" barbs and just use all 1/2" tubing. I doubt I can find 1/2" barbs local however.

3) How can you tell which one of the two fittings on the pump is the output? Im assuming that the one on 'top' is the input and the one that is parrallel is the output but Im not sure. And with water moving Im not really sure if its coming or going.

4) What is the best way to leak test a system? I have everything connected up with just a power supply and I can power it on with a metal clip but obviously I cant sit and hold it there for 24 hours so Im not sure how to keep it on without actually pluggin in a motherboard (which I dont want to do until Im sure it wont spray water all over the place)

5) I purchased a single container of CoolerMaster Thermal Conductivity fluid - and its only 500ML. How much physical liquid does it take to fill a watercooling setup with my general properties?

6) And finally, what is the best way to fill the system? I purchased a resevoir (I wasnt 100% sure why at the time) but pouring water into it is somewhat awkward. Until I fix the leaks that I have from the fittings question in step 1 Im not going to jump to too many conclusions, but do you need both a resevior and a T junction and fill line? Or does just a resevoir do the job? What are the advantages/disadvantages of each?

7) The parts came with plastic clamps, are the metal clamps I can buy down at home depot going to be preferrable? Additionally, on the Apogee the hoses are so close together coming in and out that I had to kind of piggyback the clamps on top of each other - Does anyone know a better way to do this?

Sorry about all the questions and thanks for the responses! I just want to do this right the first time.

 

[Uncivil]

Wow great questions. I can answer a few of these. I.D and O.d is a measurement for the inner diameter (I.D) and outer diameter (O.D.). So if you have a 1/2 OD barb then you would want a tub with an ID of the same size 1/2.

 

[Uncivil]

Grr hit send too quickly. I would think that having different sizes of tubing with non matching barbs could potentially cause a leak if the hose is too big and the barb too small. Or maybe even the hose would split with the barb being too big and hose too small. Also any time that you would use a smaller barb than the rest of the system you would cause unecessary flow restriction. I think the key is to keep it as open and free flowing as possible. I am by far no pro but I would say you would probably want the same size throughout.

 

[citronym]

I believe the barb on the top of the pump is the outlet, and the one on the side is the inlet.

To keep leak testing tape the metal clip into the psu plug and let it run on its own for a while. Do whatever you have to do to make it run on its own, you def need some test time.

You dont need a res and a T. Res makes for easier filling and bleeding (typically). What res do you have?

Plastic clamps are fine if you like them.

 

[pwnt by pat]

1) Can anyone tell me what "ID" and "OD" means? I cannot seem to locate a quick definition of these two abbreviations

ID is the inner diameter of the tubing, where the liquid has to travel. OD is the ID+(2*wall thickness)

2) Are there generally any negative repercussions for mixing different sizes of tubing? I bought 1/2" tubing but for some reason they didnt send enough 1/2" barbs for me assemble everything. So I can either go buy some tubing to fit the smaller barbs that came with the larger barbs, or I can order some more 1/2" barbs and just use all 1/2" tubing. I doubt I can find 1/2" barbs local however.

You can get 1/2" plastic barbs with the right thread at Home Depot or Lowes for about a dollar. Unless the whole system is designed to accomiadate a smaller section of tubing (such as a seperation in to two loops for video cards ) then you should try and run all the same size tubing or bigger.

3) How can you tell which one of the two fittings on the pump is the output? Im assuming that the one on 'top' is the input and the one that is parrallel is the output but Im not sure. And with water moving Im not really sure if its coming or going.

Water comes in the side and out the top.

4) What is the best way to leak test a system? I have everything connected up with just a power supply and I can power it on with a metal clip but obviously I cant sit and hold it there for 24 hours so Im not sure how to keep it on without actually pluggin in a motherboard (which I dont want to do until Im sure it wont spray water all over the place)

If you use a paperclip, it will stick into the powersupply connector by itself. If you have to hold part of the tubing, prop or tape it against something.

5) I purchased a single container of CoolerMaster Thermal Conductivity fluid - and its only 500ML. How much physical liquid does it take to fill a watercooling setup with my general properties?

This depends on how much tubing you used. I'd say not a lot. Honestly, I wouldn't bother using that fluid. If you're leak testing, you know everything will be fine post install. Leaks rarly develop over time. A simple distilled water + antifreeze mixture at 10:1 would suffice.

6) And finally, what is the best way to fill the system? I purchased a resevoir (I wasnt 100% sure why at the time) but pouring water into it is somewhat awkward. Until I fix the leaks that I have from the fittings question in step 1 Im not going to jump to too many conclusions, but do you need both a resevior and a T junction and fill line? Or does just a resevoir do the job? What are the advantages/disadvantages of each?

Just a res or a tee will do the job. Doing more than one is a waste of time. All you should have to do is pour the water into the loop by any means possible, tee, res, fill contraption. You can use a syringe or a funnel and in fact, I'd recommend either.

7) The parts came with plastic clamps, are the metal clamps I can buy down at home depot going to be preferrable? Additionally, on the Apogee the hoses are so close together coming in and out that I had to kind of piggyback the clamps on top of each other - Does anyone know a better way to do this?

Metal clamps have a higher clamping pressure than plastic. If you can use them, do use them. You shouldn't have the piggybacking problem with metal clamps because the loop is much thinner than plastic.

Sorry about all the questions and thanks for the responses! I just want to do this right the first time.

That's what we're here for!

 

[Davan]

You dont need a res and a T. Res makes for easier filling and bleeding (typically). What res do you have?

I purchased the Swiftech MCRES MICRO Resevior. I figured since they just held water and I couldnt find much in the way of 'reviews' or recommendations on them that they probably all did just about the same thing - held water.

Thanks for all the responses everyone! Ill be heading to Home Depot shortly I want this thing running tonight!

 

[citronym]

That seems to be a somewhat popular res, and (as far as i know) isn't known to be problematic. If you like the res, just go with that.

 

[Davan]

OK I ran into a few more questions after running around all day. Lowes and Home Depot did not have the right sized barbs, all of their 1/2" ID barbs had thread that was far too large. I could have moved down to 3/8" barbs but then Id have to buy all new tubing and the pump wouldnt fit so wasnt worth the hassle. Anyone have any other ideas of a retailer that might possibly carry 1/2" ID barbs so I dont have to wait a week for performance-pcs.com to deliver them (and pay shipping?)

When I was rolling around trying to find them I had a sample tubing with a barb stuck in but it would not come out no matter how hard I pulled and tugged on it. I literally pulled on it for 2 - 3 hours and it is in the exact same fully locked down position that it was in before. Anyone know how to get it off without cutting the tubing?

My Black Ice Rad has two sides, each has mounting brackets for 3 sets of 120MM fans, but obviously the tubing only goes in on one side. Does it matter which side I install the fans? Would having 6 fans on it improve the cooling at all or does having 3 pretty much do everything that needs to be done? The reason I ask is because Im probably going to be mounting the rad on top of my case and drilling some holes through the top to run the tubing. But if having 6 fans would provide a noticeable cooling improvement I might consider setting that up somehow.