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Few Questions

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according to martins calc 1 gpm is still good, and the mcp355 with xspc res top can handle 3 triple rads and a cpu block just fine.

even with an ek supreme, 2 triples, 1 double, 3 mcw60's, 2 mcw30's and the pump i listed, it get s 1.12GPM.

it would be best with 2 pumps for sure, but 1 can do it.
 
How are you measuring that 1.12GPM, Spawn? Yeah, you can get by with less than 1.5GPM, but if you want that 1-2c, and are willing to pay for it, it's a worthy goal IMO. Starting off with a fair amount of flow gives you wiggle room for accessories too. I've got enough spare flow to have a INS-FM17 flow meter and a coolant temp probe inline, and still pump around 2GPM, and my HK 3.0 just loves it. :beer:
 
It chops like 17% off flow, but it's worth it too me, and like I said, I've got the flow to use. I know the status of my pumps at a glance and receive an alarm (my wifes voice saying "flow") if flow drops below 1.4GPM. I've even set my baby to shut down if flow falls below 1GPM.

Yeah, flowestimator was the bomb. Too bad that it isn't being updated.
 
ya, i wish it was, ohwell.

since i only have single block loops i am thinking of putting flow meters in as well. but i will be mad if it drops temps, what controller /program are you using with those flow meters?
 
I've got the Koolance TMS-200 and EB200. The SW comes with the unit. I'm pretty pleased with the package, but its done something weird to the power requirements of my box, though. My baby is pretty power hungry (220w at idle) which MAY have something to do with it too, but right now it won't start properly unless it's attached to its own UPS. :screwy: I've seen other reports of PSU issues with the 200, and a buddy of mine had the same problem initially.
 
Ahh yea, heard of isues with something like that before. Are you saying the Koolance TMS-200 and EB200 need it's own PSU connected to an UPS or just the whole PC?

It is probably how your 12Vand 5V rail start up. With a UPS your voltage on inrush startup to the PSU will stay at 115 VAC. The UPS will use the batteries to keep the 115VAC from dropping below xx, which could be hurting the initial 12 VDC to the unit, if it's really particular with 12 VDC etc.

Actually, dunno, just rambling off ideas.
 
Ramble to your hearts content Conumdrum, since you just gave me the most cogent explanation so far for the problem. ;) No, my 200 is attached to the same PSU that the rest of my box uses, on its own lead, which in turn is attached to a UPS all by itself. Now tell me, do you thnk this condition represents a problem in the long or short term? Is there anything I need to do?
 
Now that finals are done and I am back home I can start working on this build :santa: As it stands right now everything has been delivered and I have...

Rads :MCR 220 and MCR 320
Pump: Swiftech MCP 655
CPU Block: Swiftech GTZ
GPU Block: BFG pre-installed on the gtx 295
Reservoir: EK Spin reservoir

Was thinking about pretty much copying dealmaster's loop setup, but I had one more question. Which way should my fans be pointed? I only have the gpu and the cpu on water right now, so I would need some airflow over my motherboard to help with the dissipation of the nb/mosfets/sb. I was thinking that it would make sense to have the top rad + the back case fan be pushing air out, and the side case fan + hdd cage fan + front rad pushing air in. That is probably just my noobness showing through though because I would be pushing warmer case air through the radiator directly before my cpu, not to mention the fact that the first rad would cool the water with cool air only to heat the water back up with the same air at the second radiator. As you can see I am at a complete loss, any help would be appreciated!
 
uh.....

Having trouble seeing where pulling hot air off one fan and blowing it on another is a good idea. Aside from defying common sense, wouldn't it be more popular....
 
I think you could compensate for that by increasing the airflow through it, and then only a little extra would do it. Say, the difference between a Yate Loon low to a med. It doubles the surface area of your rad, which I would think is the imporant bit.

Here's a question to the gurus:

What's the difference in temperature before water hits a rad and after? Its my understanding that in high flow loops, we're moving water around fast enough the temp differences at any point in the loop is minor. The surface area of the rad just needs to be large enough to dissipate what heat it can before the water goes off to the other parts of the loop. In low-flow high-pressure loops, the inverse is true: you definately would want your water reaching the coolest possible temperature before exiting the rad?

Am I wrong? Do I misunderstand the loop equilibrium thing?
 
About the stacked rad, Gabe came up with that idea mainly for peeps that need more cooling and are tight on space.

In a good (not great) watercooling loop you'll see a 5c increase or so depending on tons of different conditions in air temps from incoming rad air to outgoing rad air. Mainly your fannage matters.

Taking that into account, the second rad still gets cooler air than the water temps in the second rad. You still will remove heat with the second rad, but at less efficiency. I like to say 20% from what I have read about rads in this setup.

Don't look a lot at the in/out water temps. It's the air in/out we get heat reduction. The golden word is the Delta T. Water temp vs the ambient air temps. That said, my summer temps suck big xxx. I deal with room temps of 30C in the summer. I gotta go big rad to stay decent Delta T. One reason we always ask... what's your ambient temps in the summer?? before we set on rad size choice.

Grieg, here is the poop on solid info on air/water temps. The link is to an MCR320.
http://martin.skinneelabs.com/SwiftechMCR320-Review.html
Scroll half way down and you can see the in/out air diff on the chart. It depends, like I said on fannage what the out air temp vs the in temp is.

You can also see the water in/out is very close in temps. No more than 1.5 C. Amazing eh? I thought so too once I deciphered the charts.

So if you put a second rad with good airflow, you still get good results. Fannage needs to be higher to compensate for the increased air restriction. Meaning double fans on the rad setup, but it's a viable solution.

Equilibrium (tough word) means with a set heat load (idle/load) after an amount of time temps in a WC loop wil stabilize. The heatload is the same, ambient air is the same, fannage is the same, pumps are the same, size of rads are the same, temps will stabilize for those conditions. Any of these parameters change, it has to stabilize. Thats Eqspelling hard word.

So double raddage can help, it's not the most efficient, but short on room, Gabe (Swiftech boss) has made a nice nitch product.
 
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i would have the triple on top blow down into the case, then put the double (i assume it's going in the front?) blowing in the case as well. then just make sure you run your rear and side fans exhaust out. the psu should help with that as well.
 
Welp right now I think that I am having the top rad blow in and the bottom rad blow out. Doing this because I realized I had to many bay slots taken up so I couldnt mount the lower rad vertical. At the moment it is mounted on the very bottom front of the case, with holes cut out for airflow out of the case. Seeing as how the case will be sitting on carpeted floor for the next couple of months until I move into my new house I thought it would be best to have the lower rad as an exaust. I'm leaving for a vacation for the next week but I will finish setting everything up when I come back. All i have is a picture of the parts used right now, I'll take another when I wake up of how everything is setup before the watercooling. Heh, ignore the funny tablecloth type thing. It was used so I wouldnt scratch up the nice table underneath. The video card came later in the day so it wasnt in the picture :(

computer013r.jpg


EVGA x58 Classified mobo
Velociraptor 300GB Hard Disc Drive
Core i7 965 processor
6 x 2GB Corsair memory
Coolermaster Cosmos S case
Floppy drive (call me old school heh, and yes I just realized the mobo doesnt support it :cry:)
Western Digital 1TB hdd
Coolermaster Real Power Pro 1250W psu
 
lol, nice table cloth! (jkin, i read the post)

man, i don't know what it is but the pictures of computer parts is like porn...
 
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Unfortunately I didn't get the chance to take a picture on my way out of the house this morning, so I will have to wait till next week when I get back to throw some more pictures up. But yah, it was really exciting getting all those parts. Felt like I was 8 years old again on Christmas day lol. :santa:
 
Quick question guys, does it matter how the pump is mounted? What I mean is, could I mount the pump sideways, having the "base" screwed onto the side of my case? Other than where the pump is going everything else is figured out on my case and all thats left is testing the water cooling :beer: Cant wait.
 
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