First Open Loop

[Cezar]

Hello everyone,

I finally pulled the trigger on getting Ryzen 2700 non-x, x470 Taichi, and Flare X 3200 cl14 RAM. I got 2700 instead of 2700x reasoning that I could put $70 toward a custom loop which I could use with other processors or even GPUS (which get hotter than CPUs imho) on the future. What ever rout I will go in the future I think having a custom loop is cool and gives an owner more control over his/her hardware.

My budget is $120 for AIO +$70 I saved on the non-x CPU. I want to do soft tubing as it is less painful and cheaper.

I want to create a custom loop and save. Ideally I would want to By reading articles online, I found out that most people end up with more parts then they needed or that do not fit, so they resell them. The market for such parts is much more less liquid and they usually go on big discounts. Having no experience in building custom loops, what should I pay attention and stay away from when buying used parts on forums, like holes in the radiators, etc.
Thank you.

 

[ShrimpBrime]

I trust 99.8% of buying from forums and prefer to. At least I know the money is going to another enthusiast and 99.8% trustworthy.
If it's for sale here at OCF, you probably won't have any issues, but ask questions about the product you're purchasing and perhaps research it before the purchase.

Liquid cooling is both fun and can be expensive. The best most in expensive route is purchasing an AIO (All in one) liquid cooling unit that you can add to.
The Lepa Exllusion 240mm (just using as example, not a suggestion) is up-gradable. you can add a res, radiators, tubing, flow meter ect.

You may get some extra clocks with the 2700 with liquid cooling over air cooling, but I don't think the increase is spectacular in any case really. This could be dependent on overclocking styles of persons not using SenseMi technology (The AI overclocks the processor for you, based on temps essentially) calling this a static or manual overclock. In most cases, 4Ghz all threads is easily to be achieved on air or liquid cooling.

 

[Cezar]

What size or diameter of fittings I should look for to make sure I do not get kinking with soft tubing in virtually allcases?

 

[pgdeaner]

Do you want to get an AIO that can ge expanded or are you building a complete custom?

 

[DaPoets]

Yeah I guess I'm confused as to your title as well as what you're describing. Do you want an AIO and call it a day or are you looking for an AIO that is expandable for later use down the road? A full custom loop can easily cost you $600-$1,000 in the blink of an eye so w/ a $120 budget an AIO is all you can do and there are plenty options out there. I would shy away from those expandable AIO units as they are difficult to monitor their fluid levels and it's easy to mess things up by mixing metals. I suggest either doing just an AIO or just an open loop.

 

[pgdeaner]

Agree with DaPoets. Need to go one way or the other. If you build custom, try to pick up parts used. That is what I do and it's much cheaper. If you have questions start with the stickies in this forum and then ask questions if you get stuck or confused.

 

[Cezar]

From what I read, AIOs have really weak pumps and it is hard to control and monitor them. So expandability of AIO is just a gimmicky marketing trick because after expansion the flow and efficiency will decrease substantially. I am basing this conclusion from the results demonstrated by such units like Alphacool Eisbaer 420mm vs 280mm units.

I was looking to make an open custom loop just for processor to start. However, with $200 budget I am thinking to buy mostly used parts: pump/res combo, fittings, waterblock for the CPU, and maybe radiator. The rest I would get new. In my opinion radiator can be easily damaged while the seller will be removing, packing and shipping the unit or it could be best item to buy since it does not really wear unless different metals are mixed in the loop. My main questions are which parts are most susceptible to wear and best to avoid buying used? And what questions to ask sellers to make sure you getting parts that will last. For example, transparent quality cooling solution was used in the loop that does not leave residue would mean that potential acrylic res from EKWB would not get discolored, etc. Also, maybe you know which companies or parts usually have transferable warranty for custom cooling parts? For example, CPUs come with transferable warranty always and RAM does not. I was searching around EKWB website, but could not find information about transferability of the warranty. I can of course start emailing the most popular companies to find out the information.

 

[EarthDog]

From what I read, AIOs have really weak pumps and it is hard to control and monitor them.

First part is generally true... the last part not so much (depends on the software - some are wonky).

Have you read the watercooling stickies so you can get some of the basic knowledge under your belt? If not, do so! That will help on your journey..

 

[Cezar]

First part is generally true... the last part not so much (depends on the software - some are wonky).

Have you read the water cooling stickies so you can get some of the basic knowledge under your belt? If not, do so! That will help on your journey..

I did read the stickies.

So far only the case was ordered. I went with Fractal R6. However, I've read a lot while researching on water cooling, which does not lend practical experience of being the owner of a water cooling loop, though . So I wanted to hear from the water cooling vets their advice about the parts that are least suitable for buying them used as I am looking to buy as much as possible used.

Today found a bit more about tubing sizing from EKWB article. One of the wide spread complaint of novice water loop builders is that their soft tubing is kinking. So I wanted to go with the thicker option. However, it seemed that there would be too many options to chose from, but EKWB website says that there are just three most popular sizes. So my question about kinking got answered.

 

[Zerileous]

With used items, (I am still skeptical that you can come near to meeting your budget btw), most important things to ask are what fluids, how long they were run, and frequency of cleanings. As you mentioned, acrylic parts are pretty fragile to multiple mountings of fittings, so get close op pictures of any acrylic parts. In terms of radiators being damaged, the fins are much thicker than what you would see on a car or AC condenser so they are not damaged by simply touching them. However internally, it is the one part that cannot be opened and inspected. Unless there was biological growth or crud from dyes, combined with prolonged service intervals, I don't anticipate anything being inside a radiator that couldn't be removed with the "radiator dance" described in the stickies.

I use the EK Cryofluid clear. I figured they made the blocks and it's not much expensive compared to the the blocks. You can also use distilled water, however it is important to use the proper biocide. Petra's PT Nuke is appropriate for use with nickel plated parts. Copper sulfate and silver coils are known to have undesired reactions with the nickel plating.

To prevent kinking, use angled fittings and careful routing. Just because it's soft tubing doesn't mean that you can just put it wherever. Some people prefer longer runs, I prefer shorter runs that are measured to just go from point A to B.

 

[pgdeaner]

I've built more than 10 water cooled machines. Not sure I am a vet, but here is a brain dump of some things I have learned:

I use 3/8 X 5/8 soft tubing because it does not kink on me on tight bends.

Hard tubing is an art. Save that for your next build. It takes time and patience that I don't have so I respect the hell out of people that can do it and make it look pretty.

I like the look of the old school monsoon fittings but they are a pain to get on and tighten. Lots of fitting options out there, most the ones for flex tubing will just work. Stay away from any sort of platic fittings. Some fittings work better with different tube. Make sure to check the gaskets on used fittings for cracks and replace. That actually goes for all gaskets.

Some tricks to assemble soft tube. - coffee cup with boiling distilled water can help with stiff tubing that does not want to go on a fitting. I have also on occasion sparingly used a water base lube on a fitting in a tight space.

The pH of your fluid matters. Distilled water is about 7. You want your loop in the 7-8 range. Too high or too low can cause issues. This is what people run in to when they clean out their loops with a product and don't flush completely. (guilty ). If you can afford a pH meter get one and learn to use it. I got a cheap one off Amazon. You loops will stay healthy and you will have less issues with corrosion and spotting if you spot check this.

Pressure test your loop with air before you add water if you can afford to build a test jig. All you need is a pressure guage, a Schrader valve, and a Y fitting in G1/4 BSPP. It can save you heartache. https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...-how-correctly-leak-test-your-loop-101-a.html

Lots of good info at overclock.net but the community is getting toxic. Most of the old school experts rarely post there anymore. (me included)

Take your time. Be pateint think things thru. I still make dumb mistakes that I regret in my builds like not thinking enough about how i will drain it.

Last but not least ask questions like you are doing and keep reading. There is a ton of stuff to learn and it's all fun. Fluid dynamics, plumbing, pump dynamics, chemistry, and thermal engineering all have an impact on your new hobby.

Good luck!