FX 8120 after ETS-T40 installed freezes/locks up

[Ultracool2k]

My setup was a stock FX 8120 with mobo 78mlt-s2 and 2x4GB G.skill 1333mhz DDR3 ram. I was running at 3.5ghz OC with stock fan with no freezing or problems except that the CPU temp would hit 61 degrees when testing full load with prime95 blend test. While gaming it would touch 55 degrees max. So i went for the ETS-T40 to cool it down and maybe even OC a bit more like 4ghz. So i got it in (which was somewhat a pain given i didn't know how gigantic this thing was lol I had to remove both of my side panel fans of my raidmax mid tower...) and boot up with stock cpu BIOS settings. Boots up with no problems, temps were below 30 degrees which was awesome. I do a prime blend for a couple of mins, maybe 5 mins, and it didnt even get to 50 degrees. So i went ahead and got it to 4ghz since its so damn cool now (setting all conflicting features off like c1e, cool&quiet, core boost, etc). Boot and right after login in it reboots so my guess was i needed more Vcore voltage but since i wanted to test temps at my old 3.5ghz OC with stock heatsink/fan I went and set it to 3.5ghz with lowest voltage setting which was completely stable before. It NEVER EVER froze or restarted with the damn stock fan. I test prime again... Froze while running test... I lowered to 3.3ghz... Froze again... So then im thinking maybe i put too much thermal paste. Removed the heatsink and there was a little bit dripping out but nothing major, the stock thermal was dripping a heck of a lot more and never froze... So I am pretty sure it wasn't that but I went ahead and cleaned and re-sit. I also re-sit my memory stick just to see if one of them wasn't making good contact since i worked around that area. Reboot... Now prime runs without issues at 3.5ghz but im still getting random freezing!!! Now it froze twice while shuting down. I'm thinking on setting BIOS oc back to stock and see if I get any freezing as I haven't tested that. But I would appreciate any input if anyone could tell me a specific common cause of this issue. I though it was shortcirctuiting but its not temperatures because the temps are always below 50 degrees even with OC. My next step was going to run memtest86 on the memory modules to see if one of them went bad. Everything is less than a month old.

Just to define freeze: My Windows screen gets stuck, nothing moves and my HDD LED doesn't do anything. Its just stuck on whatever screen it was at. I was considering giving it like 10 mins to see if its moves again but since theres no HDD activitiy I didn't consider doing that.

P.S. Just a side note: When i was taking the stock heatsink off, the CPU came off with it... But since i always pull my heatsinks straight up, it didn't bend any pins thanks to God. Bent pins wouldn't even boot my thing right? Just incase the freezing could be a bent pin but i highly doubt it.

 

[Johan45]

Your best bet at this point is to run at defaults and see if thats still a problem. You may not have bent any pins but there is a possibility you pulled one right off.

 

[Ultracool2k]

Your best bet at this point is to run at defaults and see if thats still a problem. You may not have bent any pins but there is a possibility you pulled one right off.

I inspected it twice and all pins seem good. This is the first time I ever had this happened to me. Never heard of anyone pulling off a pin... That is one strong mobo CPU lock if thats the case lol. Its usually bent pins because people don't pull it out straight. I probably should have twisted it a little bit before pulling up but I didn't expect the stock thermal to stick/seal so strongly... And if I was able to pull the CPU off so easily I don't think the lock would have enought force to hold the pin down to pull it off the cpu... Well its a possibility but I find it extremely low since the machine works and I aint pulling that around again because this would be the freaking 4th time i re-installs the damn heatsink lol

Yeah I will try setting to default and push it to see if it does lock up. Thanks.

 

[ShrimpBrime]

Run some HD tests. It doesn't sound like a CPU temp.issue, but a screen shot of your load temps will help confirm that.

Personally I would. Not expect much from that cooler, being it has only 4heat pipes and only one fan.

If you believe temps Might be an issue, add another fan for push pull on the heat sink.

But from what I'm reading in OP, I'd check the hd.

 

[Ultracool2k]

Run some HD tests. It doesn't sound like a CPU temp.issue, but a screen shot of your load temps will help confirm that.

Personally I would. Not expect much from that cooler, being it has only 4heat pipes and only one fan.

If you believe temps Might be an issue, add another fan for push pull on the heat sink.

But from what I'm reading in OP, I'd check the hd.

By HD you mean Hard drive right? I though of it too but what could have caused it to go bad if I didn't work with it? After i run a couple of memtest86's, ill get a Seagate testing utility to check my drive. Thanks for the intel.

 

[Ultracool2k]

Here are my specs. Also added to sig
Motherboard: GIGABYTE|GA-78LMT-S2 760G AM3+ R
CPU: AMD|8-CORE FX-8120 3.1Ghz 16M R (OC to 3.5ghz)
Memory: 2x 4GB 1333mhz DDR3 G.SKILL F3-10666CL9S-4GBNT R
GPU: PNY XLR8 GTX 650 2GB
CASE: RAIDMAX|ATX-619WU RT
PSU: ROSEWILL|RG530-2 530W RT
Hard-drive: Seagate 1T|ST 7K 32M SATA2 ST31000340AS

 

[RGone]

Because there was no issue until you went thru the process to mount a new cpu cooler it almost means there is an issue with the mounting process or you may have put pressure on the motherboard itself and disturbed a solder joint.

For many years when dealing with customers and such problems we always suggested a removal of the motherboard and a minimal setup outside the computer case with board laying on an insulated surface.

Performing a minimal setup and boot outside the case removes unseen and unexpected shorts that do occur. That backplate looks very simlar to the one used by Xigmatek and their big tower type coolers. I did not like the looks of the insulation on the backplate so I in fact used some thin nylon washers to offset my Xigmatek back plate from the motherboard completely.

Regardless removal of motherboard from the case makes troubleshooting much easier and even going back to the original cooler for troubleshooting is more easily accomplished. Returning to the original cooling setup at some point seems the logical procedure since you say there was no issue until you put this monster on top of the cpu.
RGone...

 

[Johan45]

Because there was no issue until you went thru the process to mount a new cpu cooler it almost means there is an issue with the mounting process or you may have put pressure on the motherboard itself and disturbed a solder joint.

For many years when dealing with customers and such problems we always suggested a removal of the motherboard and a minimal setup outside the computer case with board laying on an insulated surface.

Performing a minimal setup and boot outside the case removes unseen and unexpected shorts that do occur. That backplate looks very simlar to the one used by Xigmatek and their big tower type coolers. I did not like the looks of the insulation on the backplate so I in fact used some thin nylon washers to offset my Xigmatek back plate from the motherboard completely.

Regardless removal of motherboard from the case makes troubleshooting much easier and even going back to the original cooler for troubleshooting is more easily accomplished. Returning to the original cooling setup at some point seems the logical procedure since you say there was no issue until you put this monster on top of the cpu.
RGone...

Wow that's eerily reminiscent of Bassnuts trouble when he was moving.

 

[Ultracool2k]

Because there was no issue until you went thru the process to mount a new cpu cooler it almost means there is an issue with the mounting process or you may have put pressure on the motherboard itself and disturbed a solder joint.

For many years when dealing with customers and such problems we always suggested a removal of the motherboard and a minimal setup outside the computer case with board laying on an insulated surface.

Performing a minimal setup and boot outside the case removes unseen and unexpected shorts that do occur. That backplate looks very simlar to the one used by Xigmatek and their big tower type coolers. I did not like the looks of the insulation on the backplate so I in fact used some thin nylon washers to offset my Xigmatek back plate from the motherboard completely.

Regardless removal of motherboard from the case makes troubleshooting much easier and even going back to the original cooler for troubleshooting is more easily accomplished. Returning to the original cooling setup at some point seems the logical procedure since you say there was no issue until you put this monster on top of the cpu.
RGone...

Yes i see your recommendation being very viable but for now I'll leave that as last resort. If I want to put back the stock Heatsink/fan then I have to remove the mobo anyways so then I'll just leave it outside and test it while outside like you mention. I would hate if that's my case because I would blame it on the motherboard being cheap but neweggs combo policy doesn't let me swap the mobo with another better one and I do wanted a rather regular ATX sized one which would probably hold better the weigh and pressure of this big heatsink. But thanks for your input.

 

[RGone]

Well you can leave minimal build outside the case as your last restort, but actually it has been sort of first move after knowing the board has been removed from the case and put back and then there is an issue. However the pieces are yours and the troubleshooting is in your hands.
RGone...

 

[Ultracool2k]

Well you can leave minimal build outside the case as your last restort, but actually it has been sort of first move after knowing the board has been removed from the case and put back and then there is an issue. However the pieces are yours and the troubleshooting is in your hands.
RGone...

Not sure if I understood what you meant by "actually it has been sort of first move"... But if you meant that I should do this first then I'll tell you if my case wasn't such a pain to remove the stuff off then I would do it first. But i will go over memtest86 and hard drive test THEN i'll go for this. Well this is my plan:
1. Set BIOS to defaults
2. Perform memtest86
3. Hard drive seagate utility testing
4. Take off board and check backplate.
5. Run mobo off case.
6. Re-install stock heatsink
7. Cry if its stable and ETS-T40 was related to the cause.

Its always frustrating when you were running with no issue and upgrading something turns into a nightmare...

 

[Ultracool2k]

The power comsuption comparison of the stock fan versu ETS-T40 shouldn't make a difference right? I am guessing I have plenty of power for a 3.5ghz OC given I was running it before for hours without issues. Also i removed 2x 80mm fans now so thats less power comsuption... Just to completely neglect that althought if I get the mobo out again, ill use an ULTRA psu tester i have to see if all voltages are at least good.

 

[RGone]

Its always frustrating when you were running with no issue and upgrading something turns into a nightmare... = I think we have all been there before. That is why I have always gone by the old adage. If it ain't broke...fix it. Hehehe. Brought plenty of headaches living by that.

The reason I said go on with the removal is that I imagine the mobo has suffered a physical issue. That backplate looks oh so much similar to the one I have for my Xigmatek big arse cooler. The insulation looked so iffy that I did offset the backplate completely from the motherboard with thin nylon washers between backplate and mobo. In days gone by have seen that thin insulation create a mini-short depending on the temp of the board from being heated up running.

Then the backplate with all those wings for Intel mounting wanted to push against the mobo tray. Had to deal with that.

When you remove a board that has been in use for considerable time and gone thru many heat cycles they get stiff. The solder joints get stiff thru the board. Removing the board and clamping a big arse cooler down, can make a solder joint less than satisfactory after that. Removing the board and letting it relax unconfined by mounting often allows the board to work again. That means it was a mounting issue of some sort.

When I saw your first post I suspected the physical movement of the mobo had done to it what "johan45" was referring to on "Bassnut's" mobo. He had to get a new one. Traces to the ram slots went wonky, likely from pressure changes. It is said this new non-leaded solder is not as tough as the original solder we used for years and years.

Anyway my gut says that it is a physical issue. Or it might be the sausage I ate last night. Luck to you man.
RGone...

 

[Ultracool2k]

When you remove a board that has been in use for considerable time and gone thru many heat cycles they get stiff. The solder joints get stiff thru the board. Removing the board and clamping a big arse cooler down, can make a solder joint less than satisfactory after that. Removing the board and letting it relax unconfined by mounting often allows the board to work again. That means it was a mounting issue of some sort.
RGone...

I can take the backplate issue... but If its because of mobo shorting then rather would be cause of the cheapness of the motherboard... because its hardly has been used. I mean like 3-5 afternoons of usage with a room with A/C all the time its in use. Meh what kills is the randomness... We'll see once i got BIOS stock. I am hoping is just some value in the mobo that i changed but it got stuck or something. Well see, but thanks for continues input And clarifying Bassnut's case, i had no idea hehehe

 

[Ultracool2k]

Something i wanted to note that I found strange is that when I started the machine for the first time after installing the heatsink, all the BIOS settings were defaulted. Is this a protection the motherboard has because of the CPU getting pulled out and thinking its a new CPU? Or could this been something else? I did disconnect the mobo's main power plug but the cmos battery was still in... Just found it wierd.

 

[RGone]

after installing the heatsink, all the BIOS settings were defaulted. Is this a protection the motherboard has because of the CPU getting pulled out and thinking its a new CPU = It would seem so since I have seen such behavior before.
RGone...

 

[ShrimpBrime]

after installing the heatsink, all the BIOS settings were defaulted. Is this a protection the motherboard has because of the CPU getting pulled out and thinking its a new CPU = It would seem so since I have seen such behavior before.
RGone...

Ive seen that too.... But on a corrupted bios. In fact the sab1 im using even after a clear cmos and a bios recovery , if I swap chips from FX to phenom II, the bios says oc failed rather then it saying a new cpu was installed.

But that issue is likely from trying to run subzero temps.

 

[Ultracool2k]

Ive seen that too.... But on a corrupted bios. In fact the sab1 im using even after a clear cmos and a bios recovery , if I swap chips from FX to phenom II, the bios says oc failed rather then it saying a new cpu was installed.

But that issue is likely from trying to run subzero temps.

Lol are you serious about the subzero temps? Its air cooling not Dry ice cooling Yeah i think my BIOS is screwy and it my be screwing my stableness on the OC.

UPDATE: Just ran memtest86+ and it ran for 1.1 hours with no error... It didn't freeze either... So now i reseted BIOS to defaults and booted my system. Now I will reboot a couple of times and then ill try to run prime95 blend and see how that goes. After that I'll run HDD test IF it does freeze. If it doesnt then its definitely something with my OC settings...

 

[caddi daddi]

did you go back and check every connector on the motherboard?

do you have airflw down on the vrm section of the motherboard?, you said you also removed case fans.

 

[Ultracool2k]

Seems like it was a BIOS glitch. I have been running at default for hours and i did a prime95 blend for 20 mins. Air flow is fine, i have front pushing and rear pulling... i just took out some side ones which maybe were even creating disturbance on the air flow. Ill keep reporting tomorrow once I start OCing again.