Having trouble with setting up a wireless network

[Pinky]

Thanks Sentential.

I know its a coincidence but I'm actually using a DIR-655 for my cable connection. Thus far, I thought I had a pretty good router but you've proven me wrong! The router that I'm having issues with and the reason why I started this thread is a DIR-625.
Is the router you've been meaning to check out happen to be the Asus RT-N56U? I googled DIR-655 unresponsive WAN port and most of the first page results were about that particular Asus router.
I'm going to be stubborn and try setting up my DIR-625 as a WAP one more time. When I plug in the ethernet cable directly into my computer I get assigned an IP of 172.16.2.xxx with the xxx usually being a lower number. Does that mean I can assign the router an IP of something like 172.16.2.222? When I disabled DHCP before I assigned the router an IP of 172.16.254.xxx so I'm wondering if this could be part of the reason why I can't get consistency.
In the meantime, I'll definitely check out www.smallnetbuilder.com.

Thanks again.

If you disable DHCP and use the LAN (NOT wan ports!) on the router to connect to the building's network, the IP you set doesn't necessarily matter aside from it needs to be different from anything else on the network (otherwise you end up with ip address conflicts). If using the LAN ports as described the IP address you assign to the router is only for management purposes, so you could leave it at 192.168.1.1 or some other random address and when you need to configure it conenct via a wire you just manually set the computer's IP to match that subnet/range. This is so you can temporarily make your changes, then revert the computer's ip settings when done. Once a router is setup you should rarely need to access it administratively, so having an out of range IP address and having to manually configure the PC's network settings is only a minor inconvenience.

Without knowing what your building's policies are for dhcp leases and dhcp scopes (IP address ranges) I think it would be safer to just set the router's IP to something random outside of the building's scope and configure the computer manually when you need to manage it.

Make sure to secure your router with a unique admin password.

 

[Oulse]

When using a NAT router, the LAN and WAN subnets are isolated. You could have the same exact subnet setup without running into any issues. If DHCP works for your router, there's no reason it should be off unless for security reasons.

 

[Pinky]

When using a NAT router, the LAN and WAN subnets are isolated. You could have the same exact subnet setup without running into any issues. If DHCP works for your router, there's no reason it should be off unless for security reasons.

I'm trying to get him to use the router in such a way NAT won't even come into play (per my prior responses and explanations). Using the router to passively hand off network traffic is the best way to go, and not using the WAN port and not using DHCP effectively does that. IMO this will at least eliminate whether the router is the culprit.

I'm also not sure how DHCP and security have anything to do with one another in this scenerio(?). If anything, having DHCP enabled has the potential be a networking nightmare if using it on a network where DHCP was already available (not the WAN use of DHCP, the LAN ports).

I'm pretty sure if the OP does what I suggest, and it doesn't work, that he might not get this setup to work as well as he wants without some cooperation from the admins of the building's network. Effectively my suggestions turn the router into a switch, so if a switch doesn't work on their network there's other factors at play here.

 

[BeenDue]

If you disable DHCP and use the LAN (NOT wan ports!) on the router to connect to the building's network, the IP you set doesn't necessarily matter aside from it needs to be different from anything else on the network (otherwise you end up with ip address conflicts). If using the LAN ports as described the IP address you assign to the router is only for management purposes, so you could leave it at 192.168.1.1 or some other random address and when you need to configure it conenct via a wire you just manually set the computer's IP to match that subnet/range. This is so you can temporarily make your changes, then revert the computer's ip settings when done. Once a router is setup you should rarely need to access it administratively, so having an out of range IP address and having to manually configure the PC's network settings is only a minor inconvenience.

Without knowing what your building's policies are for dhcp leases and dhcp scopes (IP address ranges) I think it would be safer to just set the router's IP to something random outside of the building's scope and configure the computer manually when you need to manage it.

Make sure to secure your router with a unique admin password.

My apologies Pinky, I was afk. Thank you for following up in regards to my issue.
I had the router set up like you suggested: DHCP disabled, ethernet to LAN port instead of WAN port, random address (using my default router address). For some odd reason, the internet worked great for a couple of minutes and then it abruptly stopped working. I reset my router and followed all the steps again with the addition of tweaking the QOS engine and disabling automatic uplink speed. I read something in another forum about the QOS and automatic uplink speed. Again, it worked great for a couple of minutes and then it quits, basically every website I loaded timed out.
Manually setting the computer IP is definitely not a hassle once you get used to it. The weird thing is I can wireless access the router configuration page with the manual IP settings. Not sure if I'm supposed to do that though.
As for the building's policies on DHCP leases and DHCP scopes, I have no idea what it is so I'll take a look into that matter.
As of now, I have the router set up under its default settings and it works but is still a bit choppy. Funny how the building owner's manual says that I have to set my router up as a WAP, but when I do it doesn't work.
I'll keep you posted on any updates. Thanks so much.

 

[BeenDue]

I'm trying to get him to use the router in such a way NAT won't even come into play (per my prior responses and explanations). Using the router to passively hand off network traffic is the best way to go, and not using the WAN port and not using DHCP effectively does that. IMO this will at least eliminate whether the router is the culprit.

I'm also not sure how DHCP and security have anything to do with one another in this scenerio(?). If anything, having DHCP enabled has the potential be a networking nightmare if using it on a network where DHCP was already available (not the WAN use of DHCP, the LAN ports).

I'm pretty sure if the OP does what I suggest, and it doesn't work, that he might not get this setup to work as well as he wants without some cooperation from the admins of the building's network. Effectively my suggestions turn the router into a switch, so if a switch doesn't work on their network there's other factors at play here.

Yeah... I'm pretty sure the building's network has DHCP. Not sure if this confirms anything, but when I plug in a cable directly from the building's ethernet jack to different computers at different times, each computer gets assigned a different IP.
All in all, I think the building's network is cursed.

 

[BeenDue]

Oh and also I want to bring this up; despite how ghetto it sounds if you're having issues with range try using some kind of aluminum dish. Right now I have my wireless adapter configured for my ghetteno which consists of my USB stand hotglued to a pie tin with a hole cut in the center pointed to my router in the other room.

As sad as it sounds it works wonderfully well; better than the wap repeater I installed ironically enough. Might want to give that a try.

Sorry Sentential, I was afk.
Thanks for link to the dir-655 issue and the wireless performance test chart. I'll definitely be using that when it comes to my next router. So thanks again.
As for the "ghetteno", I was actually considering building an amplifier for my router out of aluminum foil back when I first moved in and set up my network. Back then, I got sick and tired of setting up and re-setting up the router so I just left it on its default settings, got my own ISP and secondary network, and recently realized that the my network based on the building's ISP was working like crap.
2 years later and I'm still trying to figure this out. Really depressing imo.

 

[BeenDue]

*snip*

Thanks for the link.
I live in an apartment so I'm not sure if I have any dead areas(my place is pretty small). As far as signal strength, I regularly get 4-5 bars. Nonetheless, I'll look into the range extender.
If you happen to live in an apartment that has its own ISP and network, could you kindly let me know how you have your network set up?

 

[Pinky]

Almost all networks have DHCP available which is why it's important to turn this off when joining one. So I believe there's definitely an issue outside of your router. There may be more settings to tinker with but you really shouldn't have to. Maybe share a link to this thread with the building's network admins and see what they think.

 

[Pinky]

Just curious if you ever found a solution/cause for your issue?

 

[AMD'er]

Have you tried using the router from your second setup as an Access Point? It could be a hardware problem. The apartment building may have set static IPs to each port or bedroom to manage their network better as well.

Like Pinky stated, setting up the one router to act as a switch/access point should have fixed your problem. Make sure allow it to pull its own IP instead of tring to assign it. You could be assigning an IP which is causing a conflict between you and another person in the same building.

 

[BeenDue]

Hey ya'll. Hope everyone is having a great 2012 so far.
Sorry I haven't been keeping you guys updated regarding my issue.
I currently haven't found a solution that works 100%. I have the router running on its default settings with a minor tweak regarding the channel.

I did find something interesting today though. The internet connection went down completely so I called tech support and they had me look into a compartment in one of my closets. Lo and behold, I removed a panel covering the compartment and I found a wired d-link router inside the compartment along with a whole bunch of other cables, etc. Basically, each unit has its own wired router that is being getting fed from the building's "switchboard"?(not sure if that's the correct term). I'm thinking this changes the game up quite a bit.
Previously I had mentioned that the building had its own router and I never thought I could access it, at least physically that is.

What do you guys think?

 

[BeenDue]

Just an update.
I called tech support again and I've talked to 4 different people on 4 separate occasions. Each and every time I get the same answer saying that they don't support wireless networks in my building. The excuse they give is the wireless interference caused by other networks.
I've been running my wireless router as a wap for about a week now. Everything is pretty much standard. Only thing I did differently this time was assign my router/wap an ip on the backend of the wired d-link router's default gateway/IP. I've been testing it out and its still pretty choppy. Works ok rarely and most of the time it works like crap.
I'll keep you guys posted.
I'd love to hear what everyone thinks.

 

[Pinky]

Can you plug your wireless directly into the router in the closet? Just as one more thing to eliminate (wiring from closet to wherever in your apartment). How many of the ports on their router are currently being used?

I've never heard of this type of setup for a residence. It's almost always the responsibility of the occupant to supply their own internet service.

I'm starting to think you will need to tinker with the NAT settings on your router to get smooth and consistent traffic flow, especially if they've done anything abnormal to regulate flow on their network (which might be why they're telling you it's a no-go, because they have things heavily managed on their end(?)).

Unfortunately your situation went from being iffy to worse case scenerio. The fact they have a router in your closet is bad news for you!

My prior advice about plugging the network cable into one of the LAN ports on your wireless router still stands, this will allow it to act as a switch. Then tinkering with the NAT and network mode settings in your wireless router's config might yield some results depending, again, on what they have setup. I'd say systematic trial and error. Change a single setting, test for a bit. Document as you go along. In an hour you'll have all the variables tested and documented. If nothing works, you're probably SOL.

Next time you speak with tech support, remind them that many portable devices (phones, tablets) only have wireless connectivity and them not providing you the ability to have wireless is a severe detriment. THEY need to catch up and get into the 21st century by supporting today's networking standrd(s)!

 

[BeenDue]

Really appreciate it, Pinky.

I, myself, have never heard of the setup that my building currently has. Some other residential buildings in the area do have DSL networks throughout the buildings at no cost to the tenants. But I've heard setting up a wireless network is a breeze in those buildings.

There is 1 port being used on the wired router in the closet. It looks like that cable is connected to this multi-CAT5 cable hub of some sorts and I assume that provides connectivity for the multiple outlets throughout my place.

I'll definitely connect my wireless router directly to the wired router and set up a standard WAP with a LAN to LAN connection. I'll keep at it and let you know how it goes.

Thanks again.

 

[BeenDue]

So I have everything hooked up like we discussed: DHCP disabled; LAN to LAN from the wired to wireless router. The only other setting worth mentioning is that I turned off the QoS engine in the wireless router. Everything else is on default settings.
So far, the results have been mixed. Overall, it seems to work slightly better than my previous setups(But I have no concrete evidence to prove this). Still getting timed out frequently.
One thing that has changed is that I get dreaded 169.254.xx.xx IP when I try to directly connect to the wireless router/WAP. Previously I had been able to access the router with ease. So this is definitely a first. I haven't been able to tinker with any NAT settings like you suggested because of this. However, I'm planning to reset the router in the next couple of days and do some tinkering.

All in all, I am actually considering unplugging the cable running into the building's wired router and plugging it into my wireless router. From what it looks like, all the wired router does is provide a wired ethernet network throughout my place and serves no other purpose. Do you think this is a feasible option?

Thanks

 

[FX4]

Here's been my experience so far; Dlink has fantastic routing speeds but the Ubicom chipset they use is prone to failure once it exceeds a certian level of IP flows; had this same issue with the DIR-655. If you wanna take a look google DIR-655 unresponsive WAN port and you'll see what I'm talking about.

As far as routers go based on the dozen routers I went through and what I deal with at work, I'd summarize em as follows:

Netgear (aethros based)- good features, good routing, horrific wireless range and poor thoroughput, poor quality wireless radios, does not work well in mixed B/G/N enviroments
Linksys (broadcom based)- poor features, mediocre routing, good wireless range and thoroughput, prone to overheating, often lacks gigabit
Dlink (ubicom based)- good features, poor routing, good wireless range, not good for "family" router, do not buy for seeding/torrenting. numerous firmware issues
Belkin (varies)- hit or miss on all listed above depending on what you get. Lacks consistancy

There's an Asus router I had been meaning to try out; heard good things about it. But as far as routers go I normally defer to: www.smallnetbuilder.com hands down best place on the web for router info

I think you are a little outdated on the Linksys routers. Cisco went through and redesigned them after a lot of problems from Linksys. I have piles of home routers and as far as home routers go Linksys is my top pick. Second is Apple and third is Belkin. I haven't had a Dlink last more than a year and while Netgear tend to last working through their bugginess can be a major PITA. That and they interpret RFCs and standards different than just about anybody else in the industry so interoperability can be a real PITA. That being said these days I run a Cisco 881W which is a business class access router so I have kind of given up on the whole home router thing.

 

[FX4]

Now as far as your home router goes it's kind of hard telling what is going on but here are some thoughts:

1. You are getting cross channel interference from your neighbors. BTW 900 MHz phones will cause problems as will microwave ovens. 802.11N is less susceptible to these problems but can still have issues. Also what kind of devices are connecting your router? I mean N, G, B? Your wireless network will ratchet down to the slowest device attached. Provided your network is setup correctly change your operating channels.
2. You don't have the router configured correctly and trying to decipher your setup I suspect you don't. Although I'm not entirely certain what you have set up.
3. Your router has gone South...I doubt this is the issue but it is possible.

BTW: Stay away from off brand routers like ASUS, it's a secondary business for them. You won't get the updates and support you need as issues are discovered and they won't keep protocol experts on staff.

 

[FX4]

BTW I'm not certain what your channel tweak was but it should be 6 or 11 and nothing else.

This Cisco article deals with high density wireless design. While you are not designing a high density network it gives you an idea of what you are up against and your best options. http://www.cisco.com/en/US/prod/col...e_c07-693245_ps2797_Products_White_Paper.html

Also verify that a wired connection to your router is working before troubleshooting the wireless part. It's kind of pointless to troubleshoot the wireless side if you don't have the router configured correctly.

 

[BeenDue]

Now as far as your home router goes it's kind of hard telling what is going on but here are some thoughts:

1. You are getting cross channel interference from your neighbors. BTW 900 MHz phones will cause problems as will microwave ovens. 802.11N is less susceptible to these problems but can still have issues. Also what kind of devices are connecting your router? I mean N, G, B? Your wireless network will ratchet down to the slowest device attached. Provided your network is setup correctly change your operating channels.
2. You don't have the router configured correctly and trying to decipher your setup I suspect you don't. Although I'm not entirely certain what you have set up.
3. Your router has gone South...I doubt this is the issue but it is possible.

BTW: Stay away from off brand routers like ASUS, it's a secondary business for them. You won't get the updates and support you need as issues are discovered and they won't keep protocol experts on staff.

1. N and G devices.
2. All I did was set it up as a WAP. IP is default; DCHP disabled; LAN port to LAN port.
3. I'm going to reset the router and find out. I was able to access my router without a problem until I recently connected my router to the wired router(which I previously didn't know existed). But yeah, hopefully its not the issue.

 

[BeenDue]

BTW I'm not certain what your channel tweak was but it should be 6 or 11 and nothing else.

This Cisco article deals with high density wireless design. While you are not designing a high density network it gives you an idea of what you are up against and your best options. http://www.cisco.com/en/US/prod/col...e_c07-693245_ps2797_Products_White_Paper.html

Also verify that a wired connection to your router is working before troubleshooting the wireless part. It's kind of pointless to troubleshoot the wireless side if you don't have the router configured correctly.

Its on 8 or 7. I thought getting off 6 or 11 would reduce the interference. After scanning nearby networks using inSSIDer I thought changing the channel might be a good idea.

As for the wired connection, it works absolutely great. Just to be clear, I don't have access to the wired router as that is managed by my building's ISP (although I have thought about resetting it and configuring it manually, but more figuratively than literally)