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help me decide between a new ATX motherboard or a better PSU

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raident30

Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2011
Location
Las Pinas, Philippines
Hi guys, im currently deciding on which to buy first. An ATX motherboard or a better PSU. my current specs is in my sig. I've read from google that my current PSU sucks and i need to get a better one. My other issue is that my current setup is really cramped inside the case for using a micro atx motherboard that's why im looking to buy a full ATX motherboard. I only have budget for one. the other one will be bought the following month. so i need to decide which do i buy first.

Here is a picture for reference:
20190323_100027.jpg

so there you see, it's my cooler that's cramping that up. it's a deepcool gabriel ITX cooler. It's my cooler from my past builds, i just put it up so that it'll help with the temperature. it really helped lower the temps by 10c on load but as you can see it made the setup look cramped and ugly.
 
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My other issue is that my current setup is really cramped inside the case for using a micro atx motherboard that's why im looking to buy a full ATX motherboard.

This statement makes no sense. A full ATX motherboard is even larger than a mATX motherboard. The case you have looks to be a mid tower case and should accommodate either a full size ATX or anything smaller without any issues.

Your PSU is not the greatest but if you aren't having issues with it I see no reason to spend money to replace it. There certainly are worse PSUs out there than the one you have. It probably has built-in over voltage protection so it shouldn't fry other components.
 
My other issue is that my current setup is really cramped inside the case for using a micro atx motherboard that's why im looking to buy a full ATX motherboard.

apologies if it made no sense. what im trying to say is if you look at the picture, the cooler it's really close to the GPU. i was wondering of just buying a new cooler so ease up the space between the GPU and the cpu cooler.

Your PSU is not the greatest but if you aren't having issues with it I see no reason to spend money to replace it. There certainly are worse PSUs out there than the one you have. It probably has built-in over voltage protection so it shouldn't fry other components.

i had a problem once when i tried overclocking the 2060. i had a BSOD "memory management" code. i've read from google that it's a psu not giving enough juice to the GPU. i removed the overclock that i did and the problem went away. i'm really not sure if the PSU caused it or i just lost the silicon lottery that i got a poor overclocker 2060.
 
You also have the option of buying a different CPU cooler. That case will accept a 240mm all in one water cooler and that would not cost you any more (at least in the USA) than a different motherboard. And it would give you way better cooling for the CPU as well as solving your clearance problem. By the way, because of all the reflection in that photograph, it's almost impossible to make anything out. I would not have figured out your problem just from the pic. After you explained it I can see it now. I would suggest taking the clear side panel off before taking the pic to eliminate the reflection.

If your PSU power output is marginal then I would say that is the #1 priority. Sounds like your current PSU is being pushed to the limit and too much of that will cause it to fail soon. Can you get the EVGA Super Nova G3 650W where you live? That's the one I'd recommend.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438094
 
Thanks for the new link. The first link you gave me didn't work so I tried to search for what I thought you were looking at but got it wrong.

Yes, this unit looks like a good one.

Is the proximity of the cooler to the video card actually causing you problems? Is it causing the GPU or the CPU to overheat? When you game what are the max temps reached by the GPU and the CPU cores?
 
Thanks for the new link. The first link you gave me didn't work so I tried to search for what I thought you were looking at but got it wrong.

Yes, this unit looks like a good one.

Is the proximity of the cooler to the video card actually causing you problems? Is it causing the GPU or the CPU to overheat? When you game what are the max temps reached by the GPU and the CPU cores?

the proximity doesn't cause any problems at least in the case of temperature. it's just, it looks awful. btw, that's not the cooler. that's what im planning to buy. here is my current cooler ( http://www.gamerstorm.com/product/CPUAIRCOOLER/2016-03/1287_4936.shtml ).

im getting about 65c on my gpu with auto fan curve and 24 degrees ambient temps. im getting 75 degrees max load on my CPU with the same ambient temp. primary game that i play is destiny 2 and sometimes metro exodus. they're getting about the same temps. i'm also doing video editing with da vinci resolve 15, im getting 75-77 degrees when rendering 1080 videos.
 
Technically over your budget but one of the best choices: https://dynaquestpc.com/collections...nic-focus-650fx-650watts-80-gold-full-modular

To stay strictly in your budget you could look at: https://dynaquestpc.com/collections...ies-cx650m-80plus-bronze-modular-power-supply, reviewed here. FSP is known to be a solid PSU manufacturer as well, and it looks like the MX series (https://dynaquestpc.com/collections/power-supply/products/fsp-hydro-mx-650w-80plus-bronze-psu) are current and in your budget, however I am having difficulty finding any reviews of them.

I'm not necessarily recommending the latter ones. My advice is to wait until next month for the CPU cooler and get the best PSU you can this month (such as the Seasonic Focus+ 650W Gold). It looks like the only EVGA G series available to you are G+ or G1+, these seem to be aging. Users are often encouraged to upgrade the Corsair MX PSU when listed on parts lists, and I know nothing about the FSP line beyond reputation. I'm sure they would both be functional, but spending a little extra on the power supply is good insurance and a great habit. For example your current case of a budget PSU rated for 500W failing to handle a load of <450W may have been avoided by selecting a more robust unit in the first place.
 
Technically over your budget but one of the best choices: https://dynaquestpc.com/collections...nic-focus-650fx-650watts-80-gold-full-modular

To stay strictly in your budget you could look at: https://dynaquestpc.com/collections...ies-cx650m-80plus-bronze-modular-power-supply, reviewed here. FSP is known to be a solid PSU manufacturer as well, and it looks like the MX series (https://dynaquestpc.com/collections/power-supply/products/fsp-hydro-mx-650w-80plus-bronze-psu) are current and in your budget, however I am having difficulty finding any reviews of them.

I'm not necessarily recommending the latter ones. My advice is to wait until next month for the CPU cooler and get the best PSU you can this month (such as the Seasonic Focus+ 650W Gold). It looks like the only EVGA G series available to you are G+ or G1+, these seem to be aging. Users are often encouraged to upgrade the Corsair MX PSU when listed on parts lists, and I know nothing about the FSP line beyond reputation. I'm sure they would both be functional, but spending a little extra on the power supply is good insurance and a great habit. For example your current case of a budget PSU rated for 500W failing to handle a load of <450W may have been avoided by selecting a more robust unit in the first place.

hey thanks for the suggestion. yeah i don't think my PSU is handling a load of <450W. i tried computing my current PSU 12V on 35amp, and got only 420 W. i don't think that's enough for my current system at least for overclocking the GPU hence i got a BSOD on it.
 
I think you will find that any air cooler using a 120mm fan will give the same or worse problem with the clearance. I see no way to avoid that except an AIO water system.
 
I think you will find that any air cooler using a 120mm fan will give the same or worse problem with the clearance. I see no way to avoid that except an AIO water system.

i see. then i think shelling out the extra bucks for a better PSU than what im currently looking at is better. i think im going with a corsair CX650/550 PSU. i'll be just getting an AIO, next month. i've thought about AIO in the past and shelling out an extra 10 or 20$ for an AIO more than an air cooler will be better for my system at least in the case of clearance and space.

btw, is this a good PSU? https://www.lazada.com.ph/products/...4l.searchlist.list.11.22dd1b7dmOxHDz&search=1

the cheapest super nova is 750w ( https://www.lazada.com.ph/products/...4l.searchlist.list.13.22dd1b7dmOxHDz&search=1 ) and cost 50$ more than that PSU that i've linked.

oh god i just saw my PSU here that it is the worst: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/631048-psu-tier-list-updated/
 
Any of those three you're looking at should be good. The Gold rating says something good. Any good quality PSU of at least 500 watts should be adequate to power a system with only one high end video card. But it never hurts to have a little extra wattage. A lot of cheap PSUs advertise a certain watt rating but it is a peak rating, not sustained. When you are gaming you are subjecting the system to prolonged, sustained high power draw.
 
I've read from google that my current PSU sucks and i need to get a better one.
This also doesn't really make sense. While it is true, that is not the highest rated PSU but, as seen here, it has more than sufficient power for your listed components (and note I padded the results even more with 100% CPU utilization and 4 x 140mm case fans). If your system is stable, not suddenly rebooting or shutting down for no apparent reason, then replacing the PSU with a better one is NOT going to make your computer run better. Getting a BSOD without knowing the cause of the BSOD does not, in any way, suggest the PSU is underrated.

Understand when a PSU is underrated and causes the computer to shutdown or reboot, the operating system rarely ever has enough time to detect a power error and send up an error message (BSOD). The computer just shuts off or reboots.

If you think your PSU is giving you problems, I would urge you to find a trusting friend or relative who will let you swap PSUs for awhile. If all your problems go away, then and only then can you suspect your PSU.

You should also note a new motherboard constitutes a new computer in terms of software licensing. That means in many cases, to be "legal", you need to buy a new Windows license with new motherboards. Only full-retail Windows licenses can "legally" be transferred to new computers. OEM/System Builder licenses cannot be transferred to new computers under any circumstances. My point is, upgrading the motherboard will be a much more expensive project, especially if you also need to replace the CPU and RAM with compatible models too (as is commonly necessary).

BTW, you need to edit your specs. You don't have DDR RAM, you have DDR4 RAM. Big difference! Your motherboard does not support DDR (or DDR2 or DDR3).
 
raident30, what Bill_Bright said bears some consideration and made me realize that you need to look at the issue you are having with blue screen when overclocking the GPU. You need to sort out why the blue_screen is really happening. Just because you read somebody's explanation on the internet as to why this is happening doesn't establish the truth about what is actually going on.

You said, " i had a BSOD "memory management" code. i've read from google that it's a psu not giving enough juice to the GPU. i removed the overclock that i did and the problem went away."

To me that is tell tale. You remove the overclock and the blue screen goes away. The actual reason for Blue screens can be difficult to pin down, even when error messages are present in Windows logs, simply because there are so many connected processes that are dependent on each other. As I said back in post #14, any PSU that is actually putting out 500W should cover your system with no problem, even with an overclocked video card. I would almost bet money the issue is that the overclock itself of the video card is not a stable one and that is what is causing the BSODs. You are about to spend money on an assumption here that is unproven.

Edit: you might also want to look at this discussion. Apparently there have been issues with the new Nvidia cards and memory: https://www.overclockers.com/forums...RTX-Graphics-Card-FAILED-(with-proof-2080-Ti)
 
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This also doesn't really make sense. While it is true, that is not the highest rated PSU but, as seen here, it has more than sufficient power for your listed components (and note I padded the results even more with 100% CPU utilization and 4 x 140mm case fans). If your system is stable, not suddenly rebooting or shutting down for no apparent reason, then replacing the PSU with a better one is NOT going to make your computer run better. Getting a BSOD without knowing the cause of the BSOD does not, in any way, suggest the PSU is underrated.

yeah, it's pretty stable. i've haven't got any problems like from what you've listed

You should also note a new motherboard constitutes a new computer in terms of software licensing. That means in many cases, to be "legal", you need to buy a new Windows license with new motherboards. Only full-retail Windows licenses can "legally" be transferred to new computers. OEM/System Builder licenses cannot be transferred to new computers under any circumstances. My point is, upgrading the motherboard will be a much more expensive project, especially if you also need to replace the CPU and RAM with compatible models too (as is commonly necessary).

im currently using a windows 10 that is not activated. i've watched from linus that it's perfectly fine to not activate the windows. doesn't affect gaming and tasks in anyway, the water mark is just pretty annoying that's all. I'll be activating my windows copy after i've finalized the current hardware this system have.

BTW, you need to edit your specs. You don't have DDR RAM, you have DDR4 RAM. Big difference! Your motherboard does not support DDR (or DDR2 or DDR3).
sorry about that, it's ddr4. i've edited it now.
 
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raident30, what Bill_Bright said bears some consideration and made me realize that you need to look at the issue you are having with blue screen when overclocking the GPU. You need to sort out why the blue_screen is really happening. Just because you read somebody's explanation on the internet as to why this is happening doesn't establish the truth about what is actually going on.
yeah, i need to reproduce the problem

You said, " i had a BSOD "memory management" code. i've read from google that it's a psu not giving enough juice to the GPU. i removed the overclock that i did and the problem went away."

To me that is tell tale. You remove the overclock and the blue screen goes away. The actual reason for Blue screens can be difficult to pin down, even when error messages are present in Windows logs, simply because there are so many connected processes that are dependent on each other. As I said back in post #14, any PSU that is actually putting out 500W should cover your system with no problem, even with an overclocked video card. I would almost bet money the issue is that the overclock itself of the video card is not a stable one and that is what is causing the BSODs. You are about to spend money on an assumption here that is unproven.
yeah, i need to reproduce the problem. anyway, i already jumped the gun and bought a seasonic focus gold 550w just because there's a good deal that i've come accross. not gonna justify anything of sort but i can't let the deal pass. got it for 80$, it usually sells at 100-110$ here. while at it i'm going to test my system again before and after the new PSU is installed.

Edit: you might also want to look at this discussion. Apparently there have been issues with the new Nvidia cards and memory: https://www.overclockers.com/forums...RTX-Graphics-Card-FAILED-(with-proof-2080-Ti)

yeah i've heard about this problem too. luckily i haven't had any of those problem (artifactcing, rebooting, shutdown, random bsods, etc..). the only problem i've encountered is that single BSOD (memory management) that's ive encoutered when i was overclocking and benching my GPU. as i've said, i'll try reproducing the problem and list the details (core clock, memory clock, voltage).

thank you for your time and understanding

edit: i just noticed that the guy in the video has the "micron" memory on the failed rtx 2080ti. i have the same memory too from what i've checked in gpu-z.. currently still benchmarking...

edit 2: benchmark

Capture.PNG
(core and memory additional clock)

all auto fan speed, tested all in firestrike extreme 4k
default clock: 1830 core, 1750 memory
all tests are with my current PSU (thermaltake TR2S 500w)

no BSODs so far though it frequently crashes on high overclocks, it remained stable on a moderate OC.
additional note: i've had frequent crash on 3dmark firestrike high end gaming pc tests even on stock, but everything is stable( on stable OC and stock ) on 3dmark time spy extreme 4k.
 
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Could be video drivers if it's crashing at stock in firestrike. Make sure you have the latest version of 3DMark installed. They frequently update it. Well, you'll have your old Thermaltake PSU for a backup now anyway.
 
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