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Help! Meltdown?! Is my temperature a bit high?!

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You can always add some metal mesh filters to the bottom fans to keep wires, dropped screws and other errant bits from zipping through your fans at the speed of sound.
Believe me, if there's anything dropped, Mr. Murphy will see to that it heads directly for your bottom fans! :(
 
hey RnRollie can you link me to those models. (ST30 or XT40)
What do you recommend?

You can always add some metal mesh filters to the bottom fans to keep wires, dropped screws and other errant bits from zipping through your fans at the speed of sound.
Believe me, if there's anything dropped, Mr. Murphy will see to that it heads directly for your bottom fans! :(

Sounds like a Mortal Kombat scene waiting to happen. :clap:

Here it is.



https://imageshack.com/i/kpzzP8Cjp

:shock:
 
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My Phenom II temps are worse, LOOOOLZ, not overclocked and it's hitting 50c at idle and 85 - 90c under full load after just 3 - 4 minutes of Prime95, LOLZ!!
 
Sighz... :(

I'm done with the cooling for today. Imma go rock some games, anyone?
Tomorrow I will plan again.

1. Will remove the Titans from the board and watch them dangle on life support. Reseat the raystorm block. Test my CPU temperature.
2. Buy a seperate cooling system for the GPUs.
3. Or Buy a 120.2 radiator and put it at the bottom of the case.

Am I missing anything?
 
Well, you've got enough hose running from the GPU there to (easily) put in another rad at the bottom. Just need enough height clearance.
An XT45 would require a little over 71mm (46mm rad + 25.4mm fan) , an EX240 which is shorter would require 61mm (35.5mm rad + 25.4mm fan)

You'll probably have to slide out the PSU a bit to make it easier to mount the rad & connect the hoses.

Oh, and since this is in the bottom of the case, some decent fans on the rad can be used :)

The only thing i see is re-filling being a bit awkward. In order to avoid trapping air in the top rad, it needs to be unbolted from the roof and turned and lowered so its more or less vertical (the ports at the top) AND the ports lower as the reservoir. Once all air is out it can be lifted again and bolted to the roof again.
This is why it is easier to use one of those multiport rads like the Alphacools & the XSPC EX & RX series. It allows for one of the ports to be used as fill/vent :)
The AX are good rads, but they should always be mounted lower as the res.


Anyways, idle temps at +40°C for CPU + GPU are a bit high, especially since MB is 36°C.
This indicates that room temp is probably 23-25 °C and ... that you don't have enough radiator... the CPU gets warmed up by the "idling" GPU's.

On prime the CPU alone reaches almost 80° -which happens on prime, but you really want to avoid that- and it that case the 360 puts up a very good fight. The 360 rad has no problems handling the CPU alone or with the CPU loaded while the GPU's are idling.

However, if you would run the Heaven benchmark on the GPU's alone, they will most likely overwhelm the 360.

In real world application like gaming you'll have above average load on the CPU (not enough to go to 80°C, but above 50°C definitely) and some more load on the GPU's.. and they will tend to go to 80°C.
(if you want to keep the GPU's in check, go easy on the MSAA, PhysX & other hires-quality aftereffects and set VSYNC to ON)

The combined CPU + GPU's heat load is too much for the 360 and the CPU will run too hot as it gets heated by the GPU's.

You can try to up the performance of the 360 by taking IN air from outside the case AND put some serious fannage on it.
But ultimately, you want another rad in the loop. A 240 will bring your total raddage up to 120.5 which is about right for a setup like this.

The simplified rule of thumb is 120.1 for CPU + 120.2 per GPU
(and 120.2 for CPU + 120.3 per GPU for "silent" running)

Now, having radiators IN the case comes from the idea "i might wanna go LAN party someday", as far as i am concerned.
If you never plan to go LAN party... just use something external like a MO-RA3 or Phobya NOVA. It allows for much smaller and quieter and nicer (and sometimes cheaper) PC cases. It allows for a nice mini/midi or mATX case on the desk and having a nice 120.9 rad next to it (or under the desk as a legwarmer)

.
 
Well, you've got enough hose running from the GPU there to (easily) put in another rad at the bottom. Just need enough height clearance.
An XT45 would require a little over 71mm (46mm rad + 25.4mm fan) , an EX240 which is shorter would require 61mm (35.5mm rad + 25.4mm fan)

You'll probably have to slide out the PSU a bit to make it easier to mount the rad & connect the hoses.

Oh, and since this is in the bottom of the case, some decent fans on the rad can be used :)

The only thing i see is re-filling being a bit awkward. In order to avoid trapping air in the top rad, it needs to be unbolted from the roof and turned and lowered so its more or less vertical (the ports at the top) AND the ports lower as the reservoir. Once all air is out it can be lifted again and bolted to the roof again.
This is why it is easier to use one of those multiport rads like the Alphacools & the XSPC EX & RX series. It allows for one of the ports to be used as fill/vent :)
The AX are good rads, but they should always be mounted lower as the res.


Anyways, idle temps at +40°C for CPU + GPU are a bit high, especially since MB is 36°C.
This indicates that room temp is probably 23-25 °C and ... that you don't have enough radiator... the CPU gets warmed up by the "idling" GPU's.

On prime the CPU alone reaches almost 80° -which happens on prime, but you really want to avoid that- and it that case the 360 puts up a very good fight. The 360 rad has no problems handling the CPU alone or with the CPU loaded while the GPU's are idling.

However, if you would run the Heaven benchmark on the GPU's alone, they will most likely overwhelm the 360.

In real world application like gaming you'll have above average load on the CPU (not enough to go to 80°C, but above 50°C definitely) and some more load on the GPU's.. and they will tend to go to 80°C.
(if you want to keep the GPU's in check, go easy on the MSAA, PhysX & other hires-quality aftereffects and set VSYNC to ON)

The combined CPU + GPU's heat load is too much for the 360 and the CPU will run too hot as it gets heated by the GPU's.

You can try to up the performance of the 360 by taking IN air from outside the case AND put some serious fannage on it.
But ultimately, you want another rad in the loop. A 240 will bring your total raddage up to 120.5 which is about right for a setup like this.

The simplified rule of thumb is 120.1 for CPU + 120.2 per GPU
(and 120.2 for CPU + 120.3 per GPU for "silent" running)

Now, having radiators IN the case comes from the idea "i might wanna go LAN party someday", as far as i am concerned.
If you never plan to go LAN party... just use something external like a MO-RA3 or Phobya NOVA. It allows for much smaller and quieter and nicer (and sometimes cheaper) PC cases. It allows for a nice mini/midi or mATX case on the desk and having a nice 120.9 rad next to it (or under the desk as a legwarmer)

.

Thank you for that liquid cooling 101. =)

Seriously.. I really didnt feel like removing the gpus, it was a pita to put the first one in. Next build I will consider the Mo-Ra3, atm I do plan on going to lan parties and stuff.

What if i wanted to overclock to 4.5 and ^. Would the rules apply here as well? I want to aim for 4.8 honestly.

So the game plan is 120.2 radiator for the bottom, and a 120.1 in the back of the case. I have plenty of hose left over. Will the pump handle everything?

I know you said I should get some decent fans, what do you think?

Again. Thank you guys, I really appreciate the help you guys have here.
I didn't really believe what the other guys were saying about this community. ;)
 
Thank you for that liquid cooling 101. =)

Seriously.. I really didnt feel like removing the gpus, it was a pita to put the first one in. Next build I will consider the Mo-Ra3, atm I do plan on going to lan parties and stuff.

What if i wanted to overclock to 4.5 and ^. Would the rules apply here as well? I want to aim for 4.8 honestly.

So the game plan is 120.2 radiator for the bottom, and a 120.1 in the back of the case. I have plenty of hose left over. Will the pump handle everything?

I know you said I should get some decent fans, what do you think?

Again. Thank you guys, I really appreciate the help you guys have here.
I didn't really believe what the other guys were saying about this community. ;)


for O/C, don't know, if you have a "bad" CPU, it'll kick the bucket maybe at 4.1 already.. who knows? Pumping voltage is the death of it... its what create heat.. the goal is the highest O/C with the lowest voltage :)
At which point it will be "too much" for the cooling system? Depends.. 120.5 goes a long way, but it will run really hot if you pump too much O/C.. so your limit probably becomes room temp... open the window midwinter and you can have a higher O/C compared to summer. :)


Fans:
unless you don't have an aversion to Delta, then slap Noiseblocker eLoop B12-P(S) on the radiators... they are really good radiator fans without being too noisy.

Corsair SP120Performance are good enough for rad, but have an unpleasant noise profile.

Noctua NF-F12 if you can get over the FUGLYness, but beside that colour, they would NOT be my first choice anyways.

Ideally, the Gentle Typhoon AP-15's are the best "compromise" radiator fans... but they have become extremely rare and IF they are in stock... expect to pay twice their normal list price.

On a budget? Swiftech Helix - the "poor mans" AP-15 :)

Ideally, whatever fan you choose, get the PWM variant, get a Swiftech PWM 8-way splitter and have your MB control the fans and ramp them up/down as needed: silent at idle, performance when needed.

That said, a Delta AFB1212xx "tuned down" is still more performant at low speed as the above listed fans. At 30% PWM it is virtually silent while still having good airflow & SP... It will let it existence known when it it ramps up as needed, but no other fan can deliver such a kick in the nadgers when needed :)
http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...oduct_info&cPath=36_407_696&products_id=26058


oh, yeah, the D5 can handle 120.3 + 120.2 +120.1
 
Just ordered everything. Should be here in 1 - 2 weeks. decided to go with the Noiseblocker eLoop B12-P(S) on the radiators. Because I have a v. sensitive mic and I sleep in the same room as the pc. Went with XT45's (240 inside and 120 rear). Also the Swiftech 8-way PWM Splitter Box. Will update to see how it goes later on.

Thanks RnRollie.
 
My Phenom II temps are worse, LOOOOLZ, not overclocked and it's hitting 50c at idle and 85 - 90c under full load after just 3 - 4 minutes of Prime95, LOLZ!!

If they are higher than this
HWM_prime95.JPG
and that's at max CPU load 100%

Then your not using the right cooling for that CPU, or you don't have it mounted right.
 
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