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Help prepping for first time on LN2

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So got some new pics now that it has dried. It has lost its glossy sheen (sorry Johan :shrug:) and looks more like truck bed liner now. I was able to get some close up shots of the components on the back and it seems to have formed a nice consistent shell across the back.

0708160736.jpg
0708160737.jpg


Ed, you are probably right that this it's overkill but for my first go around I figure I will do as much preventative prep as I can so that when I score up and do something stupid this may hopefully save the board.

Dejo, I have been trying to figure out the logistics of how this is all going to work with getting the ln2. I will look at getting another container of some sort to help out. I will probably spend most of the morning the first day watching and helping others to try and get a feel for how to make this work before attempting it myself.
 
when I bought my thermos bottles I bought one of the green ones of the same brand as yours. I also bought several of the magellan brand at academy. these were about 50% cheaper than the good ones, not as nice of thermos but they worked fine.
 
Hey dejo, took me awhile to figure out what academy was but I got it eventually. Did not see anything there that caught my eye. I think I'm going to go with the thermos below unless I can find something similar at a cheaper price.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YB4V52/ref=psdch_13880501_t2_B008YB4V52

So back to the board insulation, I'll post the pic first and then include my intentions below.

0707162306marked.jpg

So my initial plan is to coat all the way out to the red border with LET except for the top of the vrms. Is this enough, to much, our should I go a different route.

I am also considering coating the area inside the yellow borders with LET in case I take a gpu cold. Once again is this enough, to much, or should I go a different route.

The areas marked in blue could be 2 possible options. I have considered coating around these components with art eraser to make sure they are sealed well. My other thought is create a mask of the board with the items in blue cut out and then use that mask as a template to cut a piece of frost king insulation to cover the board. I guess I'm looking for some feedback on which would be the better option.

Last question for this post, note that I have the cpu retention bracket off I'm debating on running without it. My main thought is that it will be easier to insulate without it in the way. I don't know what the risks of not having it would be other than possibly having the cpu come out of the socket when I remove the pot so I don't know if this is a good idea or not.
 
I think you've got the right idea. That's how I would do the LRT too. I would mount the VRM heatsink before applying the LET. I doubt its a very good thermal conductor. Lol. Just be sure to get around the sink especially near the socket.
There's no harm in applying let around the pcie.
I would use the retention bracket. Those pins are so damn sensitive. If the cpu sticks to the pot then releases and falls or whatever... I'd use it.

Edit: I also have packed kleenex around the caps by the VRM, ram and NB sink (AMD) as well as between the ram slots. I'm not sure how effective it is but when I got my Gigabyte board from XXSuperBGXX he had it that way and I've seen others do it. Monkey see, monkey do. :)
 
My concern with LET is that it's very hard to remove in those tight spots. That's why I stick to eraser on the front now. If the board dies for whatever reason, all the LET must be removed before the manufacturer will fix it. If they find the board "contaminated" they will return it for you to clean it, prior to any RMA work. And whatever you do , don't get the tops of the VRM contaminated with anything . You need the contact with the HS to keep them cool.
 
+1.. artist eraser around the socket area just in case.

Any vacuum sealed insulated container will work... btw. ;)
 
This is what I would do. The red area is thin eraser pressed down over the SMDs and I roll a thin piece to go the length of the DIMM and PCIe slot. The blue around the socket is the "gasket" I mentioned before. Just high enough to clear the socket a bit. The other blue line is another piece I have rolled to fit the first dimm slot.

SOC_big.png
 
Well this give me some things to think about while I decide which route to go. I have family visiting for the next few days do will not make a lot of progress in the meantime. If I do go the art eraser route, how long does it hold up or does it dry out pretty quickly. I guess what I'm asking is if I'm safe to prep with the eraser this far in advance out should I wait until closer to the event.

- - - Updated - - -

Oh and Ed, as for vacuumed containers, I have assumed up to this point that I want a metal lined flask. I know they make plastic lined ones as well but was not quite sure on them.
 
Any decent Stainless coffee/soup thermos. Preferrably with a wide mouth. Thrift stores are good for cheap ones. As for the eraser you'll be fine. It won't dry out that quickly. Just remove it when you're done benching so the board can dry.
 
Do I need to worry about putting eraser around the base of the caps or is that not as critical.
 
Thanks again Johan,

My family decided to go do some sightseeing so I had a chance to do some more work. I got the back of the board insulated with Frostking and started insulating with eraser. I decided to do down to the second pci-e slot in case I try to take a gpu cold, if not I figure it won't hurt.

So I reattached the plates and got a piece of Frostking cut and trimmed to the size of the board and attached it to the back. I then removed the foil which was a pain. I found that peeling the foil in strips at a parallel direction to the board was a lot easier.

I then moved on to insulating the front of the board with the art eraser. I tried to keep it as thin as possible and ended up using just over 1 block so far. I decided not to do the first ram slot yet as I am considering using Vaseline in case I want to use this slot.

I figure I would post up some pics to garner some feedback on my progress so far and so that anyone that stumbles upon this in the future can reference then for help.


I will probably make a lap through the local goodwill, hock shop, and dollar store tomorrow to see if I can find some cheap thermoses.
 
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There was no need for armaflex after you put LET on. One or the other really. It wont hurt anythig as you did it, but you dont need it.

Definately go around the socket. Check out the threads we linked for pictures. :)
 
Here's a couple pics. Now this isn't set up for LN2 but it's the same thing because I use cold water condensation can be an issue, especially in the summer. In the first pic you'll see the eraser. It closes off any air that can get to the socket and comes up to the top. Then if doing LN2 I would have a piece of towel cut to fit the socket area with an opening for the CPU and 4 holes for the rods. I fit this down in making sure it won't interfere with thw pot and I "stick" it to the eraser. Then a piece of foam cut tight to the base of the pot. This one is for my block but you'll see the imprints . It's tight enough not to interfere with mounting pressure but it also seals the whole area. If the air doesn't get in the water won't.

hero eras2.JPG
hero eras1.JPG
 
Definitely will be going around the socket just was not quite comfortable with that part yet. I'm still working my way through reading some of those links so I will get them finished up before I proceed.

I was not sure if the insulation on the back but figured extra wouldn't hurt. I'll keep that in mind for the next time though.
 
Put the CPU in first though

Definitely will do.

I noticed that you do not have any eraser in the socket. I guess if it is sealed good enough though it is not a concern. The only reason I mention out is a lot of other guides and threads have eraser around the cpu as well.
 
I have done that before. I've found two things. If everything else is good it's not necessary and getting eraser out of the pins in the socket is nearly impossible. I have had it "squish" under the CPU before while clamping and that's when I decided I was further ahead without it. I haven't lost a board or CPU to water since my very first DICE attempt two years ago. So it does work.
 
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